Looking for a 2 stroke expert in Dunedin

[Fast Eddie]

Is that "don't touch" sign talking about the chicks or the bike?

haha don't touch the bike, its higher maintenance than the chicks so you can touch them anyway you want

[Kickaha]

Maybe you should have used your time at Uni to study something useful (like 2 stroke motorcycles)

[ducatilover]

naturally I overlooked the increase in fork diameter lol.. yea anodising is the look I want anyway. like ur forks hopeful that it will be cheap

It is, you can even do it yourself. I might do my brake callipers gold

[tigertim20]

this thread is progressing fast enough I keep getting behind!

Cheers bro! Another fella from Uni just dropped off a charger but thank you, its a really small charger so not sure if its going to do the trick, will send u PM if it doesnt charge. Much appreciated bro.

As for the Hayden idea - brilliant! I forgot all about him even though he makes it quite open that he works for booze/beer and is a plastic welder I think that will sort out the throttle and switch blocks a treat. Cheers for that bro!

Making progress on the RS.. the powervalves are a mess, the wires that run from the actuator have severly worn ball ends so need to try find replacements.. unless you can get new ball end bits attached to cables?

I couldn't tell much from the reed valves tho Tim, what should I be looking for? (and im assuming the reeds are the parts underneath the carbs?) I neglected to take a picture cause i just looked at them quick before putting the carbs and shit back on. They looked very clean and tidy from the top. But I didn't know what I should be looking for. My italian manual doesnt have any proceedure or instruction for checking the reeds.

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sweet as re the charger, if you need it, its here for you.
as for the ball ends, is it just the balls themselves that are worn down and are a bit loose in their holders, or is the wire attached to the ball worn and fraying as well? if its a matter of loose fit, Im fairly sure you can get a plastic clip thingy that goes over the ball, you just sort of push it on. You often see a similar thing on the bit that slots into the lever on a clutch cable etc as well, that might help out if its not frayed/stretched wires.
reeds, make sure the edges are smooth, and not worn down, no holes and chipping around the edges etc there should be something in the manual about how to check that the condition is OK.

True experts rarely work for drink/smoke/food.

some do it for money, some do it for love.

[Kickaha]

some do it for love.

If it is Fast Eddie you're talking about it's likely to be gay man love (so I am told)

[Fast Eddie]

If it is Fast Eddie you're talking about it's likely to be gay man love (so I am told)

theres that pirate thing again I was talking about hahaha (edit: he was talking bout experts so no I dont think he was referring to me anyway)

[Kickaha]

theres that pirate thing again I was talking about hahaha

I will make sure I never ever race on the same Sidecar as you

[Fast Eddie]

...that might help out if its not frayed/stretched wires.
reeds, make sure the edges are smooth, and not worn down, no holes and chipping around the edges etc there should be something in the manual about how to check that the condition is OK.

nice idea about the resleeving, cables are sweet. no fraying etc. just the ball ends that are munted. Will check out sleeve options but found a set of all the cables I need for 50.00 buck plus shipping so not the end of the world.

Will have another read through the manual to look for reed inspection. Then engine section alone is 170 pages of pretty small text! haha.. But from what I saw from the top they actually looked fairly new/clean and no signs of wear and tear but I only looked from the top down after I had taken the carbs off.

cher cher. off on holiday up north for a couple weeks with the mrs on tues. Will get back into it proper in the new year.

[Fast Eddie]

I will make sure I never ever race on the same Sidecar as you

ha! you are smarter than the average bear. Its why old AJ keeps looking over his shoulder during races..

[Fast Eddie]

ok - back to thinking bout bikes and poon

[Fast Eddie]

Maybe you should have used your time at Uni to study something useful (like 2 stroke motorcycles)

your not wrong there chief!

[Fast Eddie]

Couple of photos, got a rusted out water inlet/outlet spigot whatever its called.. Is this removeable and replaceable? I gave it a taps to try get it out but not too easily.
Got a broken piston skirt
and finally got a stripped out screw that holds the exhaust valve arm onto its actuating shaft.. really need to get that screw out so i can remove the arm/shaft and then get the valves out.





slow progress, also have leaking front forks now and one of the exhausts seems a bit iffy where it mounts up to the cylinder.. more photos later

[ducatilover]

That little fucker should be removable

[cowpoos]

There was a ridiculous amount of oil and grease all over the engine, especially around the exhaust port of the left cylinder and all over the exhaust manifold..



Engine fired up and sounded good today, I left it to idle for a while to see what it would do, Started trying to check powervalve operation as per workshop manual but after a while it dropped its idle rpms and then died.. Hasn't restarted on both cylinders since sooo..

I'ld be search for ignition first...oil grease around exhaust port = possibly unburnt fuel...not restarting on both cylinders just point towards that. leave the power valve for now.

[F5 Dave]

That tube may be a bitch to get out, to be honest it might be as easy to find a thin tube to go inside it. there will be more of a restriction elsewhere in the system so as long as you don't reduce it too much for too long the cooling shouldn't be affected.

I'd never leave the PVs, - you must check them on RGVs. Maybe from there you can put your finger on them & see if there is any slop.