I'd go with the VFR750 motor as well - Tried, tested and not a complete ballache!
#24 1989 Honda NC30
should also be cheap-ish: Ideally an EFI one. the only real drama I think would be the rear headers: they're a PITA on an NC30, but with LESS clearance? urk.
but yeah, an easy, reliable 80+ hp NC30? WOO!
Plus the only new money in it is the motor etc: The rolling chassis is free (actually anything but free, but since I already own it, it is essentially free, even though I dare not count the amount of money sunk into NC30 bits over the years...
I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave
engine reconditioner say mine are a bit naffed and if he cuts them will probably end up no good. anybody have some laying around they don't want?
Hey guys n gals, i just bought my first VFR 400R....so no mechanical issues yet. Seems pretty straight and handles well (from the test ride anyway) Im suspended at the 'mo, lost my demerits through speeding on my GSXR...shame. So i decided a down size might be a good idea for a while at least. the only weird thing is the 'SPEED' warning light on the instrument panel. What's that all about? Never encounted that before, so excuse my ignorance ha ha. Also, some tips on service or maintainence intervals or just general comments on this model bike would be greatly appriciated. 1991 VFR 400R. cheers aye![]()
1991 = NC30, so gear driven cams, infrequent (but expensive valve adjustments) maintenance. The motors in stock form are renowned for reliability: key is oil and filter changes. They can be a bit hard on spark plugs I find and spark plugs are VERY expensive. Check the air filter too, just the normal maintenance stuff you'd do on any bike. The known issues with them revolve around the regulator/rectifier (check its charging properly), and the restricted top speed at 180kph: easy to fix.
If it has stock suspension it will need a rebuild at least probably, or cartidge emulators in the forks and maybe a respring, and a shock rebuild or replacement. the rear tyre size is 18 inch which might cause some issues getting sticky rubber for but it is available. The hot ticket is an RVF400 17 inch rear wheel, but if you do that you will need the new shock to get back the rear ride height you've lost.
Great bikes, truly. Enjoy.
I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave
Hey thanks for that...and that 'Speed' warning light on the instrument panel? it flashed on and off at relatively low revs at a 100kph...anything to worry 'bout?
I also have a 91 NC30. Doesn't have a speed light though. My 250 GPX has one that comes on at 80kph because that is what the speed limit was for learners in japan.
With the gearing on the NC30 its hard not to be speeding really.
Hey scuba_steve that couldbe a bit frustrating. Run through the below procedure and let meknow. You may have done some or all of it already, but just in case..
We know CDI unit works..Well it did on my machine.
Disconnect plugs at CDI unit. Locate the 3 pair wires for the three pulse generators-perform resistance test across each of the pairs. This will test all wiring and connections in the lines to pulse generators.
Reconnect plugs and turn on ignition. Locate power feed Black/White wire check for 12 volts (approx). Locate 4 wires for the 4 ignition coils and test for 12volts (approx) at the plug
This will test all power feeds including kill switch and power to the coils.
Turn off ignition and locate earth wire and resistance test to frame or Battery negative approx 0 ohm resistance
If these tests check OK then you have something strange, If you want a hand I'm bout due for aspin around the "block" . I can pack up the oscilloscope drop in for coffee and a bit of a look see.
Just been through this saga myself, my issue turned out to be an open circuit pulse generator, to prove it was the real source of the problem and that the CDI unit worked I broke open and performed a crude rebuild of the pulse generator. I now need to locate a replacement unit (pulsegenerator). Hint hint to anybody reading this and may know where I can pick one up aye.
This site is full of useful info.
Here is a thread about a wider rear tyre http://www.400greybike.com/forum/vie...=32657&start=0
If you can find an RVF400 rim then it is a straight swap. I have been running a 160 rear with no hassles of clearance. Only thing I did was increase my ride height for the decrease in wheel diameter, but that can also be done with the RVF linkage as well. Only problem I get is slight exhaust/swingaram interference.
My main motivation for doing it was range of tyres available rather than handling.
#24 1989 Honda NC30
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