THANKS motorbike guy

[Katman]

Keeway use the cheapest, nastiest chains on their bikes from new. It will be rooted.

Get it replaced with a quality brand.

[Tigadee]

Keeways, Lifans, Huniaos/Arrow and Kymcos aren't as bad as people think. In the UK, they are very popular and Kymco especially has a strong following in many countries. All are copies of older proven Japanese models, such as the Honda Rebel or Suzuki Intruder (or in Kymco's case, the Honda Magna 250 and CB125).

Hyosung of Korea, for example, made Suzuki engines, and Kymco makes Honda and now BMW engines. In most of these bikes though, the mechanical designs are reliable, but it's sometimes the quality of materials which let the bikes down, e.g. rusts easily if not cleaned often or lower grade of metal used.

[sleemanj]

Learn to adjust it yourself, and it's always a good idea to carry what you need to do it.

But if it's stretched that much you might find it is time for a new QUALITY chain and SPROCKETS. Don't cheap out, get new chain (a known, quality one, o-ring, EK, DID or similar) and new sprockets at the same time so they all bed in together, otherwise you'll probably be doing it all again 12 months from now because old worn sprockets can really slog out a new chain in quick time.

[Buyasta]

As others have mentioned, it's extremely easy to adjust your own chain, you'd be best served by learning how to do it yourself, as it's the sort of thing you want to check and adjust pretty frequently.

I knew about as much as you do as chains when I had mine suddenly fall off as I was going along a slightly bumpy gravel road, fortunately I was on a ride with some other KBers at the time, so someone walked me through how to put it back on and tighten it up, and then how to check it was at a good level of tension.

So just looking at some youtube videos should show you all you need to know, but if you're really nervous and dead set on taking it to the shop, ask the mechanic if they can show you how to do it, I'm sure they'd be happy enough to show you exactly what to do.

[oneofsix]

I wonder...
Is this thread indicative of a mistake we will see more often. People are used to cars where you put petrol in the tank, sometimes check tyre pressure (when it looks like you have a flat) and the garage might pick up on low oil or that light will come on. Basically cars are low maintenance if you chose to treat them bad but with lack of basic maintenance bikes bite you harder.
As more drivers become riders due to petrol price pressure are they going to fail to carry out the basic maintenance or even know it is required, not optional? Of course they are.

[Rajol]

It's quite tight right now, and the videos on youtube said to lookup how much slack your chain usually gives

I'm not sure where to find this information

My manual doesn't have it in it

Keeway supershadow 2011

[Buyasta]

It's quite tight right now, and the videos on youtube said to lookup how much slack your chain usually gives

I'm not sure where to find this information

My manual doesn't have it in it

Keeway supershadow 2011

I believe you're after about 2-3cm of chain deflection, so if you just push up or down on the chain at it's loosest point, that's how much it should deflect by.

[Rajol]

thanks, will check after work today and take it into the shop tomorrow morning if it needs adjusting

[bogan]

I believe you're after about 2-3cm of chain deflection, so if you just push up or down on the chain at it's loosest point, that's how much it should deflect by.

Standard deflection works on most bikes, however, it's far better to find out what is recomended for the bike in question. For example, if I ran 2cm of deflection, best case I would need new chain and sprockets inside a month, more likely it would be a new final drive shaft. FYI I run 65mm to the swingarm, for probably a 40mm deflection from straight (or 80 top to bottom), and that is with a chain roller; and it has never jumped off.

I'd be checking the sideways deflection of the chain, good way to tell how much play there is between the links.

[Bikemad]

if you can pull the chain away from the rear sprocket in line with but in the opposite direction to the front sprocket then either chain or sprockets or both are fucked

[Buyasta]

Standard deflection works on most bikes, however, it's far better to find out what is recomended for the bike in question. For example, if I ran 2cm of deflection, best case I would need new chain and sprockets inside a month, more likely it would be a new final drive shaft. FYI I run 65mm to the swingarm, for probably a 40mm deflection from straight (or 80 top to bottom), and that is with a chain roller; and it has never jumped off.

I'd be checking the sideways deflection of the chain, good way to tell how much play there is between the links.

Yeah, I had a quick google and couldn't find anything specific about his bike though, and if it's not in the user manual either, pretty much all he can do is go with the standard, or take it in to a Keeway dealer and ask the mechanics there, they should know.

[Tigadee]

Question: Is the chain too tight if when you twist even gently on the throttle, the bike jerks forward?

Or could it just be the sprocket? For example, when I start off in 1st, the bike will jerk forward, and then I have to switch through 2nd to 3rd to 4th gear quite quickly. Nowadays, I even just start off on 2nd gear. This is the Yamaha Zeal...

[sleemanj]

Question: Is the chain too tight if when you twist even gently on the throttle, the bike jerks forward?

Or could it just be the sprocket? For example, when I start off in 1st, the bike will jerk forward, and then I have to switch through 2nd to 3rd to 4th gear quite quickly. Nowadays, I even just start off on 2nd gear. This is the Yamaha Zeal...

Doesn't sound like a chain issue to me. More like a clutch one.

[bogan]

Yeah, I had a quick google and couldn't find anything specific about his bike though, and if it's not in the user manual either, pretty much all he can do is go with the standard, or take it in to a Keeway dealer and ask the mechanics there, they should know.

yeh good plan. The other surefire option, is to get a fat bloke or two to fully compress the suspension, then do the chain uip so there is no slack, then measure the unloaded slack and re-tighten to there every time. Is what I did but took the shock out cos I'm not a fat bloke!

Question: Is the chain too tight if when you twist even gently on the throttle, the bike jerks forward?

Or could it just be the sprocket? For example, when I start off in 1st, the bike will jerk forward, and then I have to switch through 2nd to 3rd to 4th gear quite quickly. Nowadays, I even just start off on 2nd gear. This is the Yamaha Zeal...

Sounds like driveline backlash, most noticeable when going from decel to accel? and not there when you go from steady accel to more accel?

It can come from chain, cush-drive, or the clutch assembly.

[Tigadee]

Sounds like driveline backlash, most noticeable when going from decel to accel? and not there when you go from steady accel to more accel? It can come from chain, cush-drive, or the clutch assembly.

Yup, sounds about right.

"cush-drive"?