Coolant/radiator system?

[Coolz]

Worst case scenario would be a blown head gasket.

[ducatilover]

I'd try bleeding the system.
Make sure the radiator fins are clean and airflow isn't restricted.
Hardwire the fan (put a wire from the fan switch plug to earth) and ride it.
Change the thermostat, or remove it and ride.
Check the water pump impeller is okay and the bearings.
Then I'd pull the plugs out and check if it's running too lean.
If it's not too lean, check for blockages in the exhaust.
Valve clearances.


How hot is it getting on the gauge?

[oracle]

I'd try bleeding the system.
Make sure the radiator fins are clean and airflow isn't restricted.
Hardwire the fan (put a wire from the fan switch plug to earth) and ride it.
Change the thermostat, or remove it and ride.
Check the water pump impeller is okay and the bearings.
Then I'd pull the plugs out and check if it's running too lean.
If it's not too lean, check for blockages in the exhaust.
Valve clearances.


How hot is it getting on the gauge?

Woah there, as much as I am sure that all of that is a good idea it is well above my head. Highest it gets on the temperature gauge is about half way first ride after filling with coolant but can get up to just below hot if it is a long ride a few rides after I had refilled the coolant and the amount coming out from the overflow is minimal, never reaches the red.

[ducatilover]

Woah there, as much as I am sure that all of that is a good idea it is well above my head. Highest it gets on the temperature gauge is about half way first ride after filling with coolant but can get up to just below hot if it is a long ride a few rides after I had refilled the coolant and the amount coming out from the overflow is minimal, never reaches the red.

Anything above half is high on one of those, they usually read a bit low.
If it's getting too hot it won't want to drop to idle, or idle at 13-500rpm by itself.
I used to have my VT250 Spada set to 1000rpm idle (sounded cool with the exhaust I had and when the fan switch died, it wouldn't idle properly when it got too hot.

I'd first try hard wiring your fan and riding it like that.

[actungbaby]

Anything above half is high on one of those, they usually read a bit low.
If it's getting too hot it won't want to drop to idle, or idle at 13-500rpm by itself.
I used to have my VT250 Spada set to 1000rpm idle (sounded cool with the exhaust I had and when the fan switch died, it wouldn't idle properly when it got too hot.

I'd first try hard wiring your fan and riding it like that.

man thats good idel speed there dude 4 cylinder is like 1,200 rpm idle 1000 like car idle
shows it was runing sweet as a nut maybe that vtwin torque

whats the bros idle at

[ducatilover]

man thats good idel speed there dude 4 cylinder is like 1,200 rpm idle 1000 like car idle
shows it was runing sweet as a nut maybe that vtwin torque

whats the bros idle at

The biggest factor to get it that low was the stator output, if it was left idleing too long you'd drain the battery... sounded hot though.
My Bros650 was around 1000-1200, but it had a cam kit in it supposedly.
My 600 will sit on 900-1000 happy as Larry.

[FJRider]

Woah there, as much as I am sure that all of that is a good idea it is well above my head. Highest it gets on the temperature gauge is about half way first ride after filling with coolant but can get up to just below hot if it is a long ride a few rides after I had refilled the coolant and the amount coming out from the overflow is minimal, never reaches the red.

If the flow out the overflow is constant (even a trickle) ... it sounds like a head gasket issue. Minor thing now ... but it could get serious ... FAST.

Not all head gasket issues and symptoms are identical. Be wary of the "Mine didn't do that so thats not the problem" comments.

A compression test on all clyinders may show a drop in pressure in one (or more) cylinder(s).
As may a pressure check on the cooling system.

I would suggest you get it sorted soon ... before Murphys Law sorts it for you ... that fella murphy is a real bastard.

[oracle]

If the flow out the overflow is constant (even a trickle) ... it sounds like a head gasket issue. Minor thing now ... but it could get serious ... FAST.

Not all head gasket issues and symptoms are identical. Be wary of the "Mine didn't do that so thats not the problem" comments.

A compression test on all clyinders may show a drop in pressure in one (or more) cylinder(s).
As may a pressure check on the cooling system.

I would suggest you get it sorted soon ... before Murphys Law sorts it for you ... that fella murphy is a real bastard.

I will take a closer look at this, but would a buggered head gasket stop the coolant from being drawn back into the radiator on cooling and produce negative pressure in the radiator after a few rides?

[FJRider]

I will take a closer look at this, but would a buggered head gasket stop the coolant from being drawn back into the radiator on cooling and produce negative pressure in the radiator after a few rides?

Look up the TOTAL amount of water/coolant in the system. Check out how much the reservoir holds (from the low mark) to fill it. It may be pushing out more water than can be stored. Plus ... if the gasket IS leaking, it will NOT hold pressure ... therefore cannot "suck" it back in.

Small pressure from the cylinders may be pushing the water out ... A minor flaw in the gasket at manufacture can do it. Small multi-cylinder engines have very intricate gaskets (not to mention expensive)

If you are unsure WHAT could happen to YOUR engine ... Google Hydrauliced engines

A link ... http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...1235636AA3xl78

The basic theory ... air compresses ... water does not. Induction strokes suck in air/fuel. A leaking gasket can suck in WATER too. Usually not a FULL cylinder full just enoughto STOP the piston from reaching TDC.

Then ... the fire goes out ... and all noise (apart from the screeching back tyre) ... STOPS. With little warning ...

[oracle]

Look up the TOTAL amount of water/coolant in the system. Check out how much the reservoir holds (from the low mark) to fill it. It may be pushing out more water than can be stored. Plus ... if the gasket IS leaking, it will NOT hold pressure ... therefore cannot "suck" it back in.

Small pressure from the cylinders may be pushing the water out ... A minor flaw in the gasket at manufacture can do it. Small multi-cylinder engines have very intricate gaskets (not to mention expensive)

If you are unsure WHAT could happen to YOUR engine ... Google Hydrauliced engines

A link ... http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...1235636AA3xl78

The basic theory ... air compresses ... water does not. Induction strokes suck in air/fuel. A leaking gasket can suck in WATER too. Usually not a FULL cylinder full just enoughto STOP the piston from reaching TDC.

Then ... the fire goes out ... and all noise (apart from the screeching back tyre) ... STOPS. With little warning ...

Right, that all makes sense (sorry I am not an idiot, just very new to anything to do with mechanics). Is a compression test a relatively quick procedure that would not cost too much at the mechanics? (still a student so not a lot of spare money)

[FJRider]

Right, that all makes sense (sorry I am not an idiot, just very new to anything to do with mechanics). Is a compression test a relatively quick procedure that would not cost too much at the mechanics? (still a student so not a lot of spare money)

Both tests just take a few minutes.

Plugs out ... tester shoved in the (plug) hole ... turn the motor over a few times (on EACH cylinder) ... done.

The coolant test involves pumping water into the system to bring it just below max pressure ... watch the pressure gauge ... if it drops, find out WHERE it's going ... Takes slightly longer ...

In search of workshop work ... some places check for free. NOT ALWAYS THOUGH.

ASK ... FIRST !!!

[FJRider]

Right, that all makes sense (sorry I am not an idiot, just very new to anything to do with mechanics)

ONE thing you can do ... is check your oil. If the gasket is leaking ... it may leak into the OIL channels (which circulates the oil to the top and around the engine) This mixture turns the oil milky white.

[oracle]

ONE thing you can do ... is check your oil. If the gasket is leaking ... it may leak into the OIL channels (which circulates the oil to the top and around the engine) This mixture turns the oil milky white.

That one I have done (googling tells some info) and there is no sign of cloudiness but I understand that doesn't rule anything eitherway

[FJRider]

That one I have done (googling tells some info) and there is no sign of cloudiness but I understand that doesn't rule anything eitherway

Good to hear that. No it doesn't. But keep checking anyway.

[ducatilover]

but would a buggered head gasket stop the coolant from being drawn back into the radiator

Yes. The combustion pushes the air out, when the engine is off, you have no pressure or vacuum from the cylinder/gasket leak, so no vacuum in the cooling system to pull water back in.

If it is a headgasket, pray it's the front one, pulling the rear head off involves splitting the crank case as there is a bolt under the rear head/above the gear set inside the upper crank case don't ask how I know.

It's not common for these to do head gaskets though. I'd have it checked by a competent mechanic and have the cooling system pressure checked and checked for combustion gasses too.

Good luck