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Thread: Looking for a 2 stroke expert in Dunedin

  1. #136
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    25th September 2011 - 10:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kickaha View Post
    Prise it open with a screwdriver, what would the manufacturers know about it
    hahaha! not much, some of the italian welds are quite messy on the frame eh, bit of splatter n shit

  2. #137
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    I have more but your mail server rejected them, I'll sort it out over the weekend.

    The calibrated bit it is the TPS, but it's nothing to worry about. You can swap out TPS units fine. It's not like a TPS on an EFI system as far as accuracy of calibration goes, although the sensor itself functions in the exact same way. If it worries you at all, take an ohms reading across it at closed and WOT, and then reset it up to match when you're done. You don't have to remove it from the housing though, so you probably won't change the adjustment anyway.

  3. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    I have more but your mail server rejected them, I'll sort it out over the weekend.

    The calibrated bit it is the TPS, but it's nothing to worry about. You can swap out TPS units fine. It's not like a TPS on an EFI system as far as accuracy of calibration goes, although the sensor itself functions in the exact same way. If it worries you at all, take an ohms reading across it at closed and WOT, and then reset it up to match when you're done. You don't have to remove it from the housing though, so you probably won't change the adjustment anyway.
    awesome! thank you very much.

    inbox doesnt appear to be full so hopefully the email server will behave itself later - But thanks for all the info its very useful.. back into the aprilia tonight - been sidetracked with the girlfriends GN250 electrical probs

    if ya know anything about gn250s have a look at my thread in the electrical section

  4. #139
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    25th September 2011 - 10:52
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    Hey imdying - while I was preparing to take out the engine from frame today I saw the bottom cyl carb had some messy bastard at it, and the choke cable going into it was missing its threaded plastic nut to screw into the carb, inplace it had lots of tie wire wrapped around the choke cable and the carb itself, I have no doubt there was a sweet air leak there if thats what you mentioned in an earlier post about the choke cables?

    Also, now I need to find a new one of those threaded plastic nuts to secure choke cable into carb - or replace the whole choke cable setup.. which is prob dear since it looks like a 3 cable setup.

    been thwarted by the rear axle, think its a 26mm nut and i had 25mm and 27mm or something similar, will txt the snap on fella to drop a bit round tmoro.

    reeds look mint and carbs look good but need a clean. not much else to update.. lots of bits need replacing or repairing, switchblock on the left (choke/lights) is a mess and may need a whole replacement unit unless repair is possible, someones shoved a screw in the inside of the switchblock that wraps around the clipon in an effort to get more grip so it doesnt slip on the clipon.. messy cunts, same on the throttle side.

    on a plus, throttle cables/oil pump cable etc in the multibox all look in good cond with no worn ball ends.. could measure the cables to check for stretch I guess?

    more to come tomorrow, its almost all stripped down and then will start a new thread to cover the whole rebuild. should be a bit of polishing, painting and light engine work - imdying - what specs would you go off if you were to blue print one of these, are the specs in those manuals u emailed me accurate/factory specs? i havent looked through them for all the measurements yet but I know my italian manual is lacking a few numbers

  5. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Eddie View Post
    will txt the snap on fella to drop a bit round tmoro.
    snap on? must be a cunt being a poor impoverished student
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


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  6. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kickaha View Post
    snap on? must be a cunt being a poor impoverished student
    haha, nah just spending err investing my student allowance wisely

  7. #142
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    17th July 2005 - 22:28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Eddie View Post
    haha, nah just spending err investing my student allowance wisely
    I only had a boat, bike and V8 as a student
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




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  8. #143
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    25th September 2011 - 10:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducatilover View Post
    I only had a boat, bike and V8 as a student
    son of a bi...

    I got 2 bikes and half a sidecar (maybe count it as 3 bikes haha)

    had a couple V8 rovers but petrol is pricey to run the baby 8s

    student life is tough, no denying that.

  9. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Eddie View Post
    son of a bi...

    I got 2 bikes and half a sidecar (maybe count it as 3 bikes haha)

    had a couple V8 rovers but petrol is pricey to run the baby 8s

    student life is tough, no denying that.
    I may have had them from working and then buying toys and selling 'em when I was a student though lol but I technically had 'em when I was a student.
    My P6b wasn't the best on petrol...
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
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  10. #145
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    I'll get off my arse and resend the failed stuff. Been a bit busy lately, but I'll try to remember to get it done.

    Those plastic choke nuts, from Suzuki or TTW, probably ~$10 iirc.

    Just build it standard to factory Suzuki specs. The engine out is only a few hours, so you can always go back in there. It's a lot easier to set up a standard motor.

    Cables don't stretch, they're steel.

  11. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    I'll get off my arse and resend the failed stuff. Been a bit busy lately, but I'll try to remember to get it done.

    Those plastic choke nuts, from Suzuki or TTW, probably ~$10 iirc.

    Just build it standard to factory Suzuki specs. The engine out is only a few hours, so you can always go back in there. It's a lot easier to set up a standard motor.

    Cables don't stretch, they're steel.
    Cheers Yoda! haha, mint, well carb cables/oil cables throttle cable all look in good condition, so just replacing the powervalve cables which have munched up ball ends.

    many thanks in advance for having a go sending the failed stuff, email again is kma167@uclive.ac.nz the stuff you sent last time has been a great read, especially the 2 stroke tuning tips/setup tips etc.

    I thought I will have a go at measuring and checking and altering the engine to match it up to factory specs. a bit of smoothing of ports and matching up ports and gaskets etc etc, very interested in the squish clearance set up etc too. See how I go!

  12. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Eddie View Post
    Cheers Yoda! haha, mint, well carb cables/oil cables throttle cable all look in good condition, so just replacing the powervalve cables which have munched up ball ends.

    many thanks in advance for having a go sending the failed stuff, email again is kma167@uclive.ac.nz the stuff you sent last time has been a great read, especially the 2 stroke tuning tips/setup tips etc.

    I thought I will have a go at measuring and checking and altering the engine to match it up to factory specs. a bit of smoothing of ports and matching up ports and gaskets etc etc, very interested in the squish clearance set up etc too. See how I go!
    Yeah, good setup in that matter is what you should be aiming for... make sure none of the gaskets are blocking any ports, and those sort of easy power robbing things. I think you'll be happy with the 55 odd rwhp that it has as factory... the hit of the powerband is addictive, even though the peak is apparently quite low.

    Shame you're not rolling in dough... I could sort you out an engine that would make your eyes bleed (and you'd never have to worry about another 250 2 stroke running you down. Well maybe except an RS or TZ... but you won't come across one of those on the road in NZ!)

  13. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    Shame you're not rolling in dough... I could sort you out an engine that would make your eyes bleed (and you'd never have to worry about another 250 2 stroke running you down. Well maybe except an RS or TZ... but you won't come across one of those on the road in NZ!)
    hehe, is there only one special engine and is it only avail now or do you build em? I'm usually rolling in pesos dec/january during harvest work eh.

    cheer cheer bro, look forward to any more reading material from you.

  14. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Eddie View Post
    hehe, is there only one special engine and is it only avail now or do you build em? I'm usually rolling in pesos dec/january during harvest work eh.

    cheer cheer bro, look forward to any more reading material from you.
    It's actually one of two; its sister made 84rwhp, but this one is a little more street orientated (although it has the ECU/combustion chambers for making the big power) so that pistons last more than a few thousand kms lol. The engine is only half the battle though... you need the carbs/ECU/tuning equipment that comes with it. On the flip side, it does ram air etc that the other does not. It hasn't been started yet, but I would be surprised if it doesn't easily make 70rwhp (derestricted RGV250/RS250 are typically about 55-58 as standard) with a pretty fat torque curve. Really depends on how many revs you're comfortable with and how you tune it. Me, I have next to no talent on a motorcycle, so I will be keeping it relatively mild and relying on the midrange to keep my fat arse moving around the track. It's road registered, but no idle is a bit of a pain. Pricey though, crank is about $3500.

  15. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    Pricey though, crank is about $3500.
    ouch!

    if the crank is 3,500 I imagine the rest of bits and pieces must be add to that total engine cost nicely! Would love to see the sister engine running in a bike.. must fly!

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