This is a regulator/rectifier, right?

[Blackshear]

Just changed the rear pads on my bandit and spun the wheel on its stand to make sure it was working all good, all was well (fluid needs flushing, if I'm honest...). I started her up and did a quick 20 seconds up/down the street only to have my being engulfed in a godawful smell of hell and death itself. Damn near tore the frame asunder to get at the leads behind the culprit as I was running blind next to what should have been covered in aerospace tiles to keep my skin alive.

From what I understand, it converts the current made by the 'generator' to work nice with the battery and all that jazz. I only recently replaced a 20A fuse from its box (is now bypassed entirely and separated with another 20A fuse, worked brilliant) that was also trying to set everything on fire due to corrosion/resistance. Would that have been straining the regulator?




TL;DR, this is broken.

What do I check while the bike is dead, how do I get rid of the smell, has anyone got a spare? (1990 GSF250, GJ74A)
Already left a message on trademe, e-mailed an irish bikewrecker and will be headed straight to Barry's point road tomorrow to get my balls broken at suzuki then off to Action wreckers to test my luck.
Short of that, any tips on tempting fate itself in trying a non-OEM unit?

[paturoa]

Yep that is the rr. Have you given it the sniff test to make sure that it is the offending bit?

Zook (like most manufactures) runs a single spare parts bin for many bikes, so you may well find that several rrs are the same.

Doubt if the new wiring and fuse was the cause (disclaimer - if it was done properly).

[tigertim20]

aftermarket units are readily available, and yes, they will be fine, as long as you avoid $10 chinese ebay items (though i know of a few $10 chinese ones that have stood the test of time)

Make sure you check the stator as well, three wires will be either yellow or white, test them on AC while the bike is running at 5k rpm, test across Y1 + Y2, Y2 + Y3, and Y3 + Y1.

for memory you shoud get around 50v or more across each pairing, you get a low reading and your stator is fucked.

a good google search will yield lots of results on how to wire in RR's from other bikes without issues - for example i recently wired in a Mosfet RR from a 2007 Yamaha R1, into a 06 carbed Hyoshit 650 - and it works a treat.

[paturoa]

....Make sure you check the stator as well...

Good advise.

Though un-likely to have caused the rr pop, it may have sufferred during it.

[Blackshear]

Yep that is the rr. Have you given it the sniff test to make sure that it is the offending bit?

Zook (like most manufactures) runs a single spare parts bin for many bikes, so you may well find that several rrs are the same.

Doubt if the new wiring and fuse was the cause (disclaimer - if it was done properly).

Sniff and eye test confirm, Jiff'd my entire body and I still smell crap.
Is finding a matching one hard? From the looks of most images google returns, they're either running a single input/out or the same bar a 3x1 output (Which is what I need, BW/BR in and 3x single outs.
New wiring was done 2 months ago but just threw it in there in case it was related.

aftermarket units are readily available, and yes, they will be fine, as long as you avoid $10 chinese ebay items (though i know of a few $10 chinese ones that have stood the test of time)

Make sure you check the stator as well, three wires will be either yellow or white, test them on AC while the bike is running at 5k rpm, test across Y1 + Y2, Y2 + Y3, and Y3 + Y1.

for memory you shoud get around 50v or more across each pairing, you get a low reading and your stator is fucked.

a good google search will yield lots of results on how to wire in RR's from other bikes without issues - for example i recently wired in a Mosfet RR from a 2007 Yamaha R1, into a 06 carbed Hyoshit 650 - and it works a treat.

As above. (But will google later)
I've only used a multimeter once so this will be fun to muck around with.

Good advise.

Though un-likely to have caused the rr pop, it may have sufferred during it.

I'd like to check everything related while I'm mending the electrics related to them

Cheers for the quick replies, honestly wasn't expecting any for a day or two!

[paturoa]

Jiff'd my entire body.

Now that is just a little bit too much info.

[paturoa]

Is finding a matching one hard?

Ignoring the obvious joke, not hard. There are lots around.

[tigertim20]

As above. (But will google later)
I've only used a multimeter once so this will be fun to muck around with.



!

Piece of piss, set to AC, and test the wires as described above, if I can do it, anyone can!! haha.

[CookMySock]

Make sure you check the stator as well, three wires will be either yellow or white, test them on AC while the bike is running at 5k rpm, test across Y1 + Y2, Y2 + Y3, and Y3 + Y1.

Tim is correct, AND you should also check ohms from each wire to engine frame with the engine STOPPED. You will either get identical very low ohms 0.5-5 (stator is star-wound, star point is grounded) or very very high ohms (stator is isolated.) Post again with ohms readings if you dont get these results.

A short to ground on one phase could potentially take out a reg/rect.

[Blackshear]

Ignoring the obvious joke, not hard. There are lots around.

There was no joke implied . I'm clueless on electronics but know enough to understand that removing one piece of the puzzle could have a set impedance or current limit and should be replaced by a similar one.

Piece of piss, set to AC, and test the wires as described above, if I can do it, anyone can!! haha.

Multimeter on the cards tomorrow, hopefully I stand as good a chance as you!

Tim is correct, AND you should also check ohms from each wire to engine frame with the engine STOPPED. You will either get identical very low ohms 0.5-5 (stator is star-wound, star point is grounded) or very very high ohms (stator is isolated.) Post again with ohms readings if you dont get these results.

A short to ground on one phase could potentially take out a reg/rect.

Sounds easy enough, will do.
I would imagine so with an AC current sneaking through a ground, if I'm looking at it correctly.

Cheers for the help, guys.
Suzuki quoted me $400 for a new OEM one, I'm hanging on this trademe guy at the moment.
I've heard that a GN250 will do, but again, all I know is that a multimeter reading should be between 1-10 Ohm as per the manual.

[Tryhard]

Hi m8 just gone through the whole deal with my bike. Thought it was just the rr but the stator had gone as well!!!!!!
As the other guy said easy to check the stator... meter set to ac and you should get 50-65v across all 3 wires against each other at 5000rpm. If the stator is rooted I can put you on to the chap I got one from... he even rewinds them if need b. If your not cool with testing it I'm out sth ak if I can help. Just make sure there is no shorts in that new wiring done a couple of months ago.

[Blackshear]

Hi m8 just gone through the whole deal with my bike. Thought it was just the rr but the stator had gone as well!!!!!!
As the other guy said easy to check the stator... meter set to ac and you should get 50-65v across all 3 wires against each other at 5000rpm. If the stator is rooted I can put you on to the chap I got one from... he even rewinds them if need b. If your not cool with testing it I'm out sth ak if I can help. Just make sure there is no shorts in that new wiring done a couple of months ago.

I wouldn't go so far as to ask someone over to the shore, even if riding is fun. I do appreciate it, though.
Just dropped $160 on a used GSX250 R/R which was a bit more than I was hoping to spend, though considerably less than a brand new one from suzuki for $400.
I'll need to do some soldering handiwork to get it running though, ran the multimeter across the 3 stator outputs and got a nice 1.1 Ohms without it running, haven't tried a running test yet for the AC.
There shouldn't be any shorts since I spliced the wires, soldered and 3x insulated with shrink wrap. Will double check because I'm usually retarded and overlook more than 1 thing, more or less the reason why this thread exists. (Also on the odd occasion I have a problem, I manage to google old kiwibiker threads that help me quite well).

The wrecker said this orange lead goes to a source like a brake light to turn on the rectifier or some shit, makes sense if it's a 'switch', right?
If so, must I force that lead into somewhere, seeing as it's an extra output to what my old RR has? Why doesn't my old one have the same?

Attachment 264760

Old top, new bottom.



Apologies if I'm vague or ask so much.

[Blackshear]

Tested 70~V across all 3 stator outs at 5000rpm and is easy enough to re-wire the Black/red RR and batter side leads from Female/Female to female/Male

This orange wire acts as a relay switch, correct? So as to avoid the battery constantly feeding juice though the rectifier and effectively shorting it? Why is it then that my old one didn't have this, surely that's related to the relay click I get when I turn on the ignition anyway?

Bah, money is scary!

[Blackshear]

Done.

Confirmed GSX250 R/R swap, the orange lead needed a positive input and the battery is now happy.

Thanks to those that helped (and got quite tired of this thread )
$160 worse off but another piece I can fix myself, horrah!

[Tryhard]

Good on ya m8 glad shes all sorted