Replacement Scottoiler oil?

**smmudd83_1999** · 15th June 2012, 12:04

Hi all!

So, I just bought myself a SV thou equipped with a scottoiler. Very handy. But I laughed myself sore when I witnessed the price of the OEM top up oil.

The average Joe without a scottoiler would probably use a chain lube - a higher viscosity oil that sticks a bit to the chain to avoid being flung clean off as it whirls around. It doesn't have to be anything too trick - it's not really a high pressure or high temperature environment.

Some people even report using expired oil from the sump to lube a chain - it would still lubricate the chain, though to do so adequately would no doubt result in a bit of rear wheel muck! - I think the impurities the oil collects and the polymer chains broken through engine use would not affect the lubricating properties adversely enough to be unable to lube a chain, though extensive use in your engine & gearbox might be detrimental with prolonged use which is why we change it fairly frequently.

I've even heard of folk using chainsaw chain lube and even vegetable fat!

BUT back to the scottoiler - I'm assuming a high viscosity engine oil would suffice? I'm guessing due to the low-ish temperature application it wouldn't even have to be multigrade? The drip feed rate would need to be adjusted to suit, I guess.

Further discussion is invited. I'm intrigued to hear of other people's experience.

**Gremlin** · 15th June 2012, 12:14

Always used scottoil myself (didn't really think it that expensive either)... I think I've seen comments from others that have tried other stuff that it gunks up the scottoil system...

**p.dath** · 15th June 2012, 12:34

I had a bike with a Scott Oiler on it. A prior owner used non-OEM oil in it. From the colour, it looked like they had used some garden variety engine oil in it.

Anyway, the Scott Oiler lubricated the chain fine, but when the bike was parked up over night I used to come back in the morning and find a small amount of leaked oil on the ground. After a few weeks of parking in the same place it became quite noticable (the leak on the ground).

I took it in for the local bike shop to look at it. They said someone had not used the proper OEM oil, it had fucked the seals in the unit, and it was so expensive to fix I would be better off throwing it away. So I just stuck to oiling my chain the normal way.

Use the OEM oil. It is the *cheap* option.

**CookMySock** · 15th June 2012, 12:37

I use auto trans fluid. It stinks a bit, and you will need to recalibrate the oiler, but it works ok.

**smmudd83_1999** · 15th June 2012, 13:01

"They said someone had not used the proper OEM oil, it had fucked the seals in the unit, and it was so expensive to fix I would be better off throwing it away. So I just stuck to oiling my chain the normal way."

You make a good point, sir - some lubricants will be a harsher chemical than others and will probably eat seals like an eskimo. Though as I said about using a straight sloppy grade engine oil it wouldn't eat those seals otherwise we'd all be fooked come service time? But your input is invaluable -I will strike chainsaw lube off the list!

And..."I use auto trans fluid. It stinks a bit, and you will need to recalibrate the oiler, but it works ok"...sounds like a good bet. Gearbox oils are high viscosity and are obviously non-reactive with seals.

".. I think I've seen comments from others that have tried other stuff that it gunks up the scottoil system..." No doubt. Kiwi ingenuity is often a bit hit and miss. Experimentation required!

Good stuff, keep it coming!

**boman** · 15th June 2012, 13:12

I had one on my old SV. A bottle lasted me two years, 30,000kms. I didn't think that was bad economy. Worked bloody fine it did. I wish there was a place on the Daytona to mount one too..

**Dodgy** · 15th June 2012, 14:52

There is a lot of info out there on this. I use ATF with a small amount of chain bar oil. Havent had the seals fail yet

**GrayWolf** · 15th June 2012, 18:02

Originally Posted by boman

I had one on my old SV. A bottle lasted me two years, 30,000kms. I didn't think that was bad economy. Worked bloody fine it did. I wish there was a place on the Daytona to mount one too..

not sure how much room you'd have.... but the scottoiler website often has recommended mounting sites.... on the MT its under the seat in the tool roll space. Yes it is semi 'recubant' lol.

**banditrider** · 15th June 2012, 18:52

Originally Posted by CookMySock

I use auto trans fluid. It stinks a bit, and you will need to recalibrate the oiler, but it works ok.

Originally Posted by Dodgy

There is a lot of info out there on this. I use ATF with a small amount of chain bar oil. Havent had the seals fail yet

A lot of people seem to recommend ATF - thinking of running it next time I need to top up.

**GrayWolf** · 15th June 2012, 19:05

This guy did some 'testing' of chainbar oil.... seems only the Stihl synthetic oil was a viable alternative

http://www.ta-deti.de/ta/chainsaw.html

seems ATF could be a very strong option too

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/ScottoilerClassicFAQ.htm

**Morcs** · 16th June 2012, 12:09

2 bikes i bought recent both came with scott oilers. Both are now in my bin.

But then again I havent failed to grasp the concept of using an aerosol to spray my chain.

**John_H** · 16th June 2012, 13:24

Stop being such a friggin cheap arse!! It lasts ages!!

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-483406633.htm

**paturoa** · 16th June 2012, 14:00

I've got an auto-oiler (not a scott oiler and can't remember the brand) I use 140 gearbox oil that I get from super-creep auto for a fraction of the price of official auto-oiler stuff. I'm also very tempted to try some of my chain saw bar oil for the next refill.