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Thread: Chopper project - I need some directions

  1. #16
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    8th December 2012 - 21:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Lone Rider View Post
    That means compliance from start of the build, to the end of the build, for it to be road legal. Everything you build and modify needs to be inspected, logged, and approved to get final road certification. If you started with an already built bike, and modified it then it would be a different process and some of the changes you wouldnt need inspected.

    More so if you're going to chop the frame to fit an S&S, Ultima, or other air cooled American Vtwin; which you will likely need to do as I think they will be noticeably taller than the British engine.
    I see, I see.. Sounds like a much more involved process than a boy racer banger.

    I've actually managed to drop the engine into the frame this evening to see how it might look with the current config and pipes.. and to be honest, it's far better than I expected and i'm now leaning towards sticking with the trumpy..

    Cheers for your input!

  2. #17
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    8th December 2012 - 21:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIG DOUG View Post
    that is a triumph frame,I would rebuild the mtr and it should be fun,but there is no way you are going to get a v-twin in there
    Yes it was definitely once a proper bike frame and appears the only cut / modified section is the front end. And I think I am with you there on the engine rebuild!

  3. #18
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    8th December 2012 - 21:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    On the Trademe add it said "Custom Rolling Chassis" ... not "Professionally Built Rolling Chassis". You mentioned the Birdshit welding that needs a tidy. Doesn't sound that professional to me. And unless the welding has been certified (Welding done by a certified welder) ... they will just point you to the door ... laughing as they kick your ass out of the testing station.

    ANY cutting of ANY part of the chassis will require RE-certifying ... as will ANY further welds.

    Don't spend (read WASTE) money on fancy bits or paint UNTILL it is certified for use on the road. THEN strip and rebuild ... with the fancy bits.

    But it IS your money ...

    Find out what the pipe sizes/specs were before it was fashioned into that.

    Remove ANY steel from ANY welds and you effectively weaken the weld joints. (they don't like that)

    Talk to a testing station BEFORE you do ANYTHING ... see what THEY require YOU to do ... step by step.

    Hahaha, I like that "... laughing as they kick your ass out of the testing station" Okay, sounds like i'm going to be paying VTNZ a visit then baremetaling the frame..

  4. #19
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    8th December 2012 - 21:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian d marge View Post
    LVC has been posted here before and from memory in chch the hotrod club was the best for info there is even a book they publish
    When I did resto work once or twice , I left the welds so that they could be inspected by the same guy, then I would paint.
    Triumph engines while being simple need a little knowledge to build. I've seen many slapped together, and they will run .....but
    Chrome on forks , as has been said prep is important and the blemishes will show , some people can weaken the part by to much polishing
    Get the parts you need
    Incl engine ( so just get it running)
    Get a rolling chassis
    Iron out bugs
    Now spend money ....on bling

    Just a thought , if you can , see if the frame has been rego before and you might try to get out of the lvc , worth a try
    Though if you have the engineer on your side , its piece of mind that everything is safe


    I'm just starting a new project myself , just finished the frame jig........

    Stephen
    Sounds like a plan! The frame didn't come with any old plates, and it's obviously been sitting outside for a long time, the seller said he brought it about 6 years ago, more or less in it's current state, and the amount of crapola which was on it I think that's pretty credible.

    Good luck on your project!

  5. #20
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    8th December 2012 - 21:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    I'm with stupid. You're so far away from worrying about chrome it's not funny! Definitely heed the advice about doing your cert the entire way through, and the bit about not raping the welds with a grinder just so they look pretty!

    Stick a busa motor in it!
    I have no idea what a busa is....? Sounds asain or something...

  6. #21
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    28th May 2006 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIG DOUG View Post
    that is a triumph frame,I would rebuild the mtr and it should be fun,but there is no way you are going to get a v-twin in there
    yep there is, a Honda CX500 will go in!

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terror View Post

    I have no idea what a busa is....? .
    the computer you use for kiwibiker will also get you a thing called Google to find out with...

  8. #23
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    8th December 2012 - 21:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    looking at it, I agree. Plus the first thing to do is shorten that front end by about four feet. All the cool kids are building bobbers or trackers these days. Gas axe off the headstock, point it at a sensible angle, even keep the girder, just more than halve the length of the forks.

    But its a big project....
    haha, cheers for the input! I'm not really into bobbers to be fair, i'd rather be a 'lame' kid.. No seriously, they make me think about my grandfather wearing stubbies drinking DB or XXXX with some sorta shitty old honda bike.

    Big projects are good! I have lots of time on my hands!! I've just scratch built a launch and engine, so this is something new to get immersed in.

    Cheers!

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terror View Post
    Hahaha, I like that "... laughing as they kick your ass out of the testing station" Okay, sounds like i'm going to be paying VTNZ a visit then baremetaling the frame..
    Metal thickness in the frame pipe ... can be found by drilling (small) holes. This will also show how even the thickness is at various points.
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terror View Post

    I have no idea what a busa is....? Sounds asain or something...
    It's Japanese ... and eats Blackbirds ...
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    the computer you use for kiwibiker will also get you a thing called Google to find out with...
    Wow, i've not seen this 'Google' before, been stuck on Yahoo for years. haha.

    At least my punt was more or less on par. Not too keen on anything like that, but thanks.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    Metal thickness in the frame pipe ... can be found by drilling (small) holes. This will also show how even the thickness is at various points.
    Visually, looks like 1" in most parts. But yeah, I understand. Aside from wombat welds i'd be inclined to say shes relatively unmolestered. I will find the camera and put some photos up over the next couple of days.. seems like this is going to be a long thread..

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    It's Japanese ... and eats Blackbirds ...
    I'd be willing to take a punt and say it's a pile of shit and dung beetles eat it - no offence (I have a raw humor!)






    Anyway, thanks to everyone for the comments so far, I'm glad I found this place as it seems there is a wealth of knowledge and a bag of laughs to be had!

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terror View Post
    I'd be willing to take a punt and say it's a pile of shit and dung beetles eat it - no offence (I have a raw humor!)
    CLOSE ... it's a suzuki ... and suzuki riders aren't easily offended ...

    The correct model name is GSX1300R Hayabusa ...


    Quote Originally Posted by Terror View Post
    Anyway, thanks to everyone for the comments so far, I'm glad I found this place as it seems there is a wealth of knowledge and a bag of laughs to be had!
    If it's known ... it'll be known here ...

    And what we DON'T know ... we make up ...

    The fine line between facts and assumptions ... can get a little blurred ...
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  15. #30
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    14th August 2011 - 14:32
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    If you already have the skills "just rebuilt a launch and engine" then rebuilding the Triumph won't be a big stretch for you.

    Just make sure you do check all tolerances and use a tourqe wrench on everything the book say's you should "and DON'T use second hand parts if you don't know their history.

    My own 650 engine cost me around $3000 to rebuild doing 90% of it myself.

    Your frame is for a 650,,,which is a better engine than the 750,,,but you never know what the top end an cams will be until you get into it.

    If you have round inspection covers "front an rear" on the head "it's a 650 head,,one single inspection plate "front an rear" "it's a 750 head".

    From there you work your way down checking everything because most of the top end can be mixed an matched.

    In fact it can be a F'ing nightmare working out exactly what some people did to these engines back in the day.

    There will be an ID stamping on the right hand side of the crank cases just below the barrels,,,but that is only a starting point due to that "mix an match" thing.

    If that stamping has been messed with in any way then the process of getting it all legal and on the books can be VERY drawn out.

    A couple of close up pic's of the engine. "one from either side an a lot of people here will be able to give you a very good idea of what your dealing with.

    Thanks for the thread.

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