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Thread: Front sprocket tab washer - what's the secret for removal?

  1. #1
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    Front sprocket tab washer - what's the secret for removal?

    I'm not a total noddy regarding spannering but have only once before changed a front sprocket on a bike and vividly recall what a total PITA it was getting the tab/lock washer off. Trying to get the tab washer off my 690 looks like it will be a mission. I've had a bit of a go at it and so far seem to have only mashed the washer a bit. Haven't managed to create a gap I can get a lever or punch into yet. Anybody know the secret for getting it started?

  2. #2
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    Turn it to align with the key ?
    use a puller on the sprocket?
    "frighten it"
    To be old and wise, first you must be young and stupid.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Subike View Post
    Turn it to align with the key ?
    use a puller on the sprocket?
    "frighten it"
    None of the above. It's locking the nut and is splined to the shaft. No key on the shaft. The washer is a round, splined thing which is bent over the nut.

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    Chisel with the tip between the tab and the flat of the nut. Hammer.

    Theoretically a new tab washer should be used every time so damage to the washer is irrelevant. However not many do this.
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    Chisel with the tip between the tab and the flat of the nut. Hammer.

    Theoretically a new tab washer should be used every time so damage to the washer is irrelevant. However not many do this.
    Problem is there is zero gap between washer and nut. Maybe a sharp chisel would do it. I'll probably just end up destroying the washer. I do have a new one so that's not a disaster.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmoo1790 View Post
    Problem is there is zero gap between washer and nut. Maybe a sharp chisel would do it. I'll probably just end up destroying the washer. I do have a new one so that's not a disaster.
    old knife hamered in to create a small gap.

    bit more serious. try coming at it from the side. often there is a small gap near the washer side of the nut (expect this is the engine side of the nut)

    Failing all of this get violent with a old screw driver and hammer.

    cheers r
    "The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)

  7. #7
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    Chisel works. Bit hard on the chisel though.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    Chisel with the tip between the tab and the flat of the nut. Hammer.

    Theoretically a new tab washer should be used every time so damage to the washer is irrelevant. However not many do this.
    +1.

    Guess it's all over by now but another option is to go onto a wider punch after starting with Chisel - that bends it with less cutting..
    (Pete was probably referring to an engineering chisel not a nice sharp wood chisel which will work but it will most likely destroy the wood chisel)

    Use the replacement washer when reassembling! My experience is: one can ride no further when one looses ones front sprocket!!!

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    You are meant to destroy it to get it off because you are meant to put a new one on every time the sprocket is changed

    Simple really......
    "more than two strokes is masturbation"
    www.motoparts-online.com

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmoo1790 View Post
    I'm not a total noddy regarding spannering but have only once before changed a front sprocket on a bike and vividly recall what a total PITA it was getting the tab/lock washer off. Trying to get the tab washer off my 690 looks like it will be a mission. I've had a bit of a go at it and so far seem to have only mashed the washer a bit. Haven't managed to create a gap I can get a lever or punch into yet. Anybody know the secret for getting it started?
    I can't see the photos sorry, is it my computer or are you just to lazy to bother?

  11. #11
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    Looks something like this? As above - sharpen a old screwdrive and wack it under so you have it lifted so you can use a cold chisel to bend it back. If it is only bent over once you can reuse by bending up the opposite side. Me I'd replace. But I'm like that.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    I can't see the photos sorry, is it my computer or are you just to lazy to bother?
    It's your computer. Anyway AllanB was kind enough to take a pic for me.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horney1 View Post
    +1.

    Guess it's all over by now but another option is to go onto a wider punch after starting with Chisel - that bends it with less cutting..
    (Pete was probably referring to an engineering chisel not a nice sharp wood chisel which will work but it will most likely destroy the wood chisel)

    Use the replacement washer when reassembling! My experience is: one can ride no further when one looses ones front sprocket!!!
    Not sure how sharp engineering chisels are but it needed to be as sharp as the wood chisel I used/abused. And the chisel was just used to get it started as you said.

    I re-used the washer last time. Just bend over a fresh bit of the washer. Don't see a problem with this unless you root the washer so badly it's going to fall apart.

  14. #14
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    Mate take it into a shop & get them to do it..
    If yer can't figger out how to get a tab washer undone
    you shouldn't be anywhere near a motor bike with a
    spanner unsupervised..
    Pete

    90% of all Harleys built are still on the road... The other 10% made it back home...
    Ducati... Makeing riders into mechaincs since 1964...

  15. #15
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    Two secrets. First, use the old man's wood chisel. When you're arse recovers re-grind your own cold chisel the same shape and keep it forever.

    Second, don't smack the shit out of the bloody thing when you're re-fitting it, not only are you making it difficult to remove but you're likely to fuck the bearing right behind the sprocket.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

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