Cornering lines

[Grubber]

Suzuki recommend 36 psi for both tyres. I run the front at 36 psi and the rear at 38 psi. What's the reasoning behind more pressure for the wet? Is that because they don't heat up as much, and therefore the pressure doesn't increase as much, so they need more (cold) pressure in order to maintain a suitable warm pressure?

Also, for cold weather in winter, should I run more pressure, like an extra 2 psi? Or less pressure so they warm up faster?

More pressure opens up the tread and allows it to grip in the wet as opposed to low pressure, that allows the tyre to heat up more due to the extra movement a softer pressure creates, therefore more grip in the dry.
Would say you really don't need to lower pressure for day to day road riding unless you intend to go at warp factor 9 on the road. Generally the low pressure bit is for more when you are balls out on the track that it starts to work at it's best. Low pressure tyres will warm up the most and allow the rubber to get nice and sticky.
So running at the pressures you have indicated would be fine in the wet.
Hot on the track you can run as low as 28 in both just fine.

Does this explain it ok?

[SMOKEU]

More pressure opens up the tread and allows it to grip in the wet as opposed to low pressure, that allows the tyre to heat up more due to the extra movement a softer pressure creates, therefore more grip in the dry.
Would say you really don't need to lower pressure for day to day road riding unless you intend to go at warp factor 9 on the road. Generally the low pressure bit is for more when you are balls out on the track that it starts to work at it's best. Low pressure tyres will warm up the most and allow the rubber to get nice and sticky.
So running at the pressures you have indicated would be fine in the wet.
Hot on the track you can run as low as 28 in both just fine.

Does this explain it ok?

Yup, that explains it well. Thanks.

[Metastable]

I don't take any notice of theory. I just choose the best looking piece of road and try to stick to that.

I am also a little averse to getting too close to the centre line given the number of cars that cross the centre when cornering - usually when they are in a right hander.

Most of the tyre tracks around here are shiny as hell through tar melt, so I like to avoid those too.

What he said!

[cowboyz]

More pressure opens up the tread and allows it to grip in the wet as opposed to low pressure, that allows the tyre to heat up more due to the extra movement a softer pressure creates, therefore more grip in the dry.
Would say you really don't need to lower pressure for day to day road riding unless you intend to go at warp factor 9 on the road. Generally the low pressure bit is for more when you are balls out on the track that it starts to work at it's best. Low pressure tyres will warm up the most and allow the rubber to get nice and sticky.
So running at the pressures you have indicated would be fine in the wet.
Hot on the track you can run as low as 28 in both just fine.

Does this explain it ok?

keeping in mind that race tyres and road tyres ate designed to operate at different temp. a race tyres will be nice and happy on the track at 80c but a road tyre will be cooking at that and be slippery as hell. so while the lower pressure equals more heat equals more grip is true if you go too far you'll Bugger your tyres and have the reverse effect

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[Grubber]

keeping in mind that race tyres and road tyres ate designed to operate at different temp. a race tyres will be nice and happy on the track at 80c but a road tyre will be cooking at that and be slippery as hell. so while the lower pressure equals more heat equals more grip is true if you go too far you'll Bugger your tyres and have the reverse effect

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Also very true. Thanks for adding!

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[MrItalian]

Those are definitely race lines.
I generally ride to the outside line dependant on road surface. Then use that outside to allow me to have good visibility through the corner and then my apex would possibly be out from centre line when i roll into the corner.
No sense in tempting fate with on coming car cutting the corner.
Seem to get through the corners smoothly enough and quick enough to stay out of trouble.

I read an article in a British bike mag years ago which said the same thing. Remarkably little in it all things considered.

Watch you vanishing point, give your self as much time & space into the corner as possible, apex when you see the exit. Done. Next corner.

I think it is such an individual thing. I got good value from Keith Codes "twist of the wrist 1&2". Got me consciencely scanning ahead, judging road conds, looking for hazards and braking and turning markers in an effort to make my lines less random.

I see some flaws in the diagrams everyone has drawn up, so I thought I would add a diagram of how I tend to ride.
Everyone seems to want to try emulate the classic idea of a racing line, entering and exiting a corner wide.
I try exit a corner as close to the inside as possible for a few reasons, mostly because it allows me far more options incase of the unexpected and because in the majority of situations any corner is often followed by a corner turning the opposite direction so my line puts me in the correct place to enter the next corner

You'll have to excuse my lack of ability with MS paint but here is a rough representation of what I do on the road.
The yellow line represents the centreline, the green line is the line I would use turning right and the blue line is the line I would use turning left
Attachment 291880

+1 on your advises