Starting out & have lots of questions

**Pumba** · 31st January 2014, 14:03

Originally Posted by Nobbsie

Hey guys is there a thread about peoples set ups? Like forks, breaks, frame, engine, and wheels. Or are people quite secret squirrel?

Now in a serious answer there are plenty of build threads on the forum about what different people have done to different bikes; however that would require a bit of reading and is really dependant on what you are planning on riding/building.

IMO the first step you need to take on this jounry is get some riding gear and if you have a running bike slap some protection on it and get to the track. Once you have ridden it, and talked to those that have had a bit of experience at the track you will start to get an idea of the direction you need to go into to achieve whatever it is you want to achieve.

Untill you have done that you are only pissing money away, shit and cant even put a number on the amount of builds that people have started only to end up on Trade Me/dusty shed corner/scrap 12/18/24 months latter without even turning a wheel in anger.

**Pumba** · 31st January 2014, 14:06

Oh and just to add, most bucket racers are increadably open about what they have done and how they have set up thier bikes, and a decent number are even happy to help you beat them (well come second to them maybe)

take the ESE thread for example, basically an instruction manual for anyone that wants to build a mid 20HP GP125 right here on this forum.

**TZ350** · 31st January 2014, 20:47

Originally Posted by TZ350

Because a few people have asked about the GP engine, to save wading through 270 pages, these links go to the more relevant posts about the 27hp engine.

Attachment 238154 27rwhp 1978 Suzuki GP125

Originally Posted by TZ350

EngMod2T basic info for building a 30+hp Suzuki GP125 taken from the EngMod2T simulation files.

There you go, check the two links out, attached to them are more links to all the relevant info .....

Attachment 293114

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=686939678

Currently for Sale on Trademe, I have seen this bike about and this is a very good Suzuki GP125 Bucket with a good spares collection. 26-28 rwhp is fairly easy to get reliably from these, its worth the money.

**Nobbsie** · 5th February 2014, 11:40

OK Nobbsie boy has been thinking (dangerous).
So cast rims vs spoked rims.
Would it be safe to say cast rims are heavier but have less flex than spoked rims?
Which would in turn make me think you would have faster acceleration with spoked rims?
How much difference would it really make?
Could one hypothetically reduce flex of spoked rims/wheels by having softer suspension to delay the weight transfer?
Why do people choose the rims they have?

Cheers
Nobbsie

**Henk** · 5th February 2014, 12:19

Cast
Easily available in the right(ish) sizes and no need for tubes.

**F5 Dave** · 5th February 2014, 13:03

Originally Posted by Nobbsie

. . .
Would it be safe to say cast rims are heavier but have less flex than spoked rims?
Which would in turn make me think you would have faster acceleration with spoked rims?
. .

Not safe to say that. Add in the need to run tubes (say 400g) at the very circumference of the wheel (worst place by far) & its a hard call.

Some cast wheels will be heavier, some lighter. Getting spoked wheels in the right size to run decent tyres (read RS125 size slicks; 90x17 & 120x17) is expensive & a build it yourself approach required + a decent disc is hard to mount on most old hubs. I've built some light spoked wheels but I run my wets on them (when I actually ride in the wet, Ho-ho).

Cast for the win.

2.5" front & 3.5" rear is the best wheel sizes but you can get away with 2.15 & 3".

**quallman1234** · 5th February 2014, 13:04

Originally Posted by Nobbsie

OK Nobbsie boy has been thinking (dangerous).
So cast rims vs spoked rims.
Would it be safe to say cast rims are heavier but have less flex than spoked rims?
Which would in turn make me think you would have faster acceleration with spoked rims?
How much difference would it really make?
Could one hypothetically reduce flex of spoked rims/wheels by having softer suspension to delay the weight transfer?
Why do people choose the rims they have?

Cheers
Nobbsie

What frame have you chosen?

Generally speaking, rims are the least of the flex problem.
The biggest amount of flex generally as i understand it, comes from either your forks (a fork brace can be made to counter this issue),
and your swingarm.

You shouldn't worry about things like flex for now. If you get a good frame, this issue wont be slowing you down untill you get to a really good level of riding. (Don't know your history of riding).
As i also have experienced. A bit of flex isn't a bad thing especially for beginners. As you certainly get more feel, and will lose that feel when you go stiffer. To a point ofc.

People usually aim for the wheels, to be
A)Disc compatible.
B)17" in diameter
C)As close to 2.5" Front and 3.5" Rear width
D)Try to be the lightest possible. But alot of the time you will have no choice.

These two requirements thus, make it possible to run 125GP slicks, which are amazing and there is no comparasion with road tires.
They have a tendancy to soak up alot of the bad handling aspects of frames.

Best option for now is, look into purchasing a frame. Turn up to Kaitoke this month, and check it out. Talk to some guys and even take some pictures of the bikes close up bits. (Ask the owner first).

Dont get caught up in the details. Produce something safe and legal and go ride the wheels off it.

**Nobbsie** · 5th February 2014, 15:20

I have Chosen a modified Tf125 frame to start with. This and also the reason why i asked about rims is money. As I would like to get the bike together and get out on the track before i start to spend lots of money i dont have for no track time

**quallman1234** · 5th February 2014, 16:41

Originally Posted by Nobbsie

I have Chosen a modified Tf125 frame to start with. This and also the reason why i asked about rims is money. As I would like to get the bike together and get out on the track before i start to spend lots of money i dont have for no track time

Too be honest. Won't be the rims, it will be your tire selection. What rim sizes have you got?

**Nobbsie** · 5th February 2014, 16:54

Ive only got dirt bike rims

But i might be getting some 17 spoked rims depending what the are, a friend is digging them out for me to have a look at

**koba** · 5th February 2014, 18:31

Originally Posted by F5 Dave

Cast for the win.

Forged for the Win!

Nobbsie, Just work on getting it running and track protected.

Better to make the decisions on where to spend money once you have seen more and have a better first-hand understanding.

**quallman1234** · 5th February 2014, 18:54

Originally Posted by Nobbsie

Ive only got dirt bike rims

But i might be getting some 17 spoked rims depending what the are, a friend is digging them out for me to have a look at

They will do. Put some slicks on them and your'll be away laughing. Or good road bike tires like BT39.

Get it WELL protected. Then go ride the thing. Also need a catch tank.

**Pumba** · 5th February 2014, 19:23

Originally Posted by koba

Forged for the Win!

Nobbsie, Just work on getting it running and track protected.

Better to make the decisions on where to spend money once you have seen more and have a better first-hand understanding.

No carbon fibre for the win (right after I win Lotto).

NOBBSIE, READ AND THEN RE READ THIS POST. You are over thinking it. Just get the damm bike to the track.

**Henk** · 5th February 2014, 20:11

Originally Posted by Pumba

NOBBSIE, READ AND THEN RE READ THIS POST. You are over thinking it. Just get the damm bike to the track.

Much as I hate to agree with Pumba, he is right. Get it going, slap some nylon on it and get it to the track even if that means 20 year old tyres made of ginger nut biscuits. You might crash a bit but you'll be out there doing it and learning while you are at it.
If that Koba chap gets anywhere near you crash into him, would have worked for me if I hadn't broken my bike in the process.