Fuel tank painting?

[John_H]

I have painted the tank with metalic paint. Should I now wet and dry sand or will this spoil the metalic finish? If I should sand what grit paper should I use?

[Owl]

Metallic paint - I'm presuming this is a basecoat or lacquer? Sand only if you're re-coating with more base. Do not attempt to clearcoat over sanded base! If you're sanding, I'd recommend P800-1200 wet.

Few variables involved here. What exactly are you doing?

[John_H]

Metallic paint - I'm presuming this is a basecoat or lacquer? Sand only if you're re-coating with more base. Do not attempt to clearcoat over sanded base! If you're sanding, I'd recommend P800-1200 wet.

Few variables involved here. What exactly are you doing?

It's just rattlecan paint on my bucket. I primed it and used a top coat which is metallic. The shop told me there is no need to clear coat over the top. Should I sand my final top coat?

[Trade_nancy]

Just don't spill fuel onto it afterwards....else it may crack and die..

[Tazz]

It's just rattlecan paint on my bucket. I primed it and used a top coat which is metallic. The shop told me there is no need to clear coat over the top. Should I sand my final top coat?

Why would you? Does your top coat look crap?

[John_H]

Why would you? Does your top coat look crap?

No, looks great but feels a bit rough. I haven't done this before and was told to clear coat and sand the top coat. Not going to clear coat now as I've had advice to the contrary but should I sand the top coat or not?

[Owl]

Never sand metallic topcoat unless you're re-coating with more topcoat!

Unless the metallic base is 2K (I know it ain't), then you should clearcoat with a 1K/lacquer type clear. Yes that can be sanded and cut/polished, but a metallic base shouldn't be left on its own.

[John_H]

Never sand metallic topcoat unless you're re-coating with more topcoat!

Unless the metallic base is 2K (I know it ain't), then you should clearcoat with a 1K/lacquer type clear. Yes that can be sanded and cut/polished, but a metallic base shouldn't be left on its own.

Righto, thanks. So clear coat it is then. Should I go for gloss or satin?

[SNF]

Righto, thanks. So clear coat it is then. Should I go for gloss or satin?

Its a personal choice. Want your finish nice and shiny? Gloss is your friend. Want it subdued - go for satin.

Some bikes can pull off satin well, other do better with gloss.

[John_H]

Its a personal choice. Want your finish nice and shiny? Gloss is your friend. Want it subdued - go for satin.

Some bikes can pull off satin well, other do better with gloss.

Thanks bud.

Never sand metallic topcoat unless you're re-coating with more topcoat!

Unless the metallic base is 2K (I know it ain't), then you should clearcoat with a 1K/lacquer type clear. Yes that can be sanded and cut/polished, but a metallic base shouldn't be left on its own.

Thanks, what is the difference between 1k and 2k?

[koba]

Thanks bud.



Thanks, what is the difference between 1k and 2k?

2k is professional and will do harmful thinks to you.
You will be using 1k.

[AllanB]

what is the difference between 1k and 2k?

$999 .............

[SNF]

2K is 2 parts - mixed with thinners and hardener and sprayed through a gun via compressor, in a spray booth. It is baked dry and is glossy off the gun without needing polish. White overalls, full face respirator, gloves, the works. Isocyanates (forgot how to spell it?) = toxic shit. $999 is about right, I sprayed my car myself years ago and it was about that for etch, filler, base and clear. Still looks good now apart from some scratches and chips.

2k is professional and will do harmful thinks to you.
You will be using 1k.

$999 .............

1K is the stuff mixed and in a can. It can also be sprayed via gun with thinners. It dries via solvent evaporation. it needs to be polished after its cured as it can lose its shine.Best to wear the same gear as the 2K stuff.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-...-693083479.htm
get that. Slightly better control over the can. I say slightly because you still can't control the pressure properly. Start off light, then go heavier. I'll be using one when I paint my tank and fairings once I'm done.

Remember; its all in the prep.

[Owl]

$999 .............

Must spread more rep.

[John_H]

2K is 2 parts - mixed with thinners and hardener and sprayed through a gun via compressor, in a spray booth. It is baked dry and is glossy off the gun without needing polish. White overalls, full face respirator, gloves, the works. Isocyanates (forgot how to spell it?) = toxic shit. $999 is about right, I sprayed my car myself years ago and it was about that for etch, filler, base and clear. Still looks good now apart from some scratches and chips.



1K is the stuff mixed and in a can. It can also be sprayed via gun with thinners. It dries via solvent evaporation. it needs to be polished after its cured as it can lose its shine.Best to wear the same gear as the 2K stuff.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-...-693083479.htm
get that. Slightly better control over the can. I say slightly because you still can't control the pressure properly. Start off light, then go heavier. I'll be using one when I paint my tank and fairings once I'm done.

Remember; its all in the prep.

Thanks all. Final question. Do I sand between coats of clear or just final coat?