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Thread: Throttle cable seized?

  1. #1
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    17th July 2003 - 23:37
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    Throttle cable seized?

    So, I know I need to replace it but is there a way to unseize a throttle cable? I just need to test a CDI for someone else on here and I have no money to replace the cable just now.
    It will be replaced before I rebuild the engine.


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  2. #2
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    29th May 2010 - 21:08
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    Have you tried WD40 or CRC

  3. #3
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    If its nylon coated then it may have swollen and the answer is no

    If wd 40 or penetrating oil make a funnel plasticine and let drip /soak over night untill it runs out other end

    Or the easiest way buy some inner cable and ends from a bicycle shop ( or make some out of a bolt ) and replace the inner

    probably cheaper than the wd40 and quicker to

    Stephen
    "Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."

  4. #4
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    I have tried crc, and applying heat figuring it may be the yamalube stuff that seems to crystallise if I unused for a while. That has freed the top segment but alas the bottom segment is going no where.


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  5. #5
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    Do you have one of these at all http://www.scootertherapy.com/clube3.JPG they work a treat at forcing the lube down there.

    If your in town at some stage give me a buzz and ill lend you mine if needed.
    I felt an emotion bubbling up from the inside.
    It was warm.
    Is coffee an emotion?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mongolian View Post
    Do you have one of these at all http://www.scootertherapy.com/clube3.JPG they work a treat at forcing the lube down there.

    If your in town at some stage give me a buzz and ill lend you mine if needed.
    Those things are the shizz, only about $10 too.
    For a man is a slave to whatever has mastered him. Keep an open mind, just dont let your brains fall out.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by unstuck View Post
    Those things are the shizz, only about $10 too.
    Yep they work real well especially if you use the specific cable lube spray, it stays in the cable for ages and keeps it good and smooth.

    Think i got mine at cycletreads or something
    I felt an emotion bubbling up from the inside.
    It was warm.
    Is coffee an emotion?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Dog View Post
    So, I know I need to replace it but is there a way to unseize a throttle cable? I just need to test a CDI for someone else on here and I have no money to replace the cable just now.
    It will be replaced before I rebuild the engine.


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    Ha......that happened to me about 1981 on an Yamaha TS 650 going down Newton gully. Caused a policeman to pull me over and issue a ticket for 80 in a 50 and wrong class of licence.
    he couldn't get the throttle to stick on the side of the road so didn't believe me

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mongolian View Post
    Do you have one of these at all http://www.scootertherapy.com/clube3.JPG they work a treat at forcing the lube down there.

    If your in town at some stage give me a buzz and ill lend you mine if needed.
    Yes, I have one and tried putting more cable lube down.
    I suspect the old cable lube. The last throttle cable froze after sitting for 8 weeks while the busa was registered for the summer.
    I wind if it is because I use cable lube instead of the Suzuki recommended engine oil?


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  10. #10
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    17th July 2003 - 23:37
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    Having said that the action was so smooth before it seized it was incredible. Mixture of alloy throttle tube and regular cable lubing.


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  11. #11
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    16th April 2011 - 12:22
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    You sure the cable hasn't started to fray somewhere? A while back, the throttle cable on my RG150 seized and upon cutting the cable open to have a look see, it was fraying and had turned into this horrible tangled mess.

  12. #12
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    Quite often the source of a seized cable is a single strand having let go, which then works itself inside the outer. Pulling the old inner out can be a prick, generally you need to put the inner in a vice and heave on the outer, although sometimes it becomes a crowbar job (although at that point I would discard everything and rebuild from scratch).

    Regular cable lubing and dying after a mere 8 weeks without use do not compute. Shit I would expect it to still be free 2 or more years later, not seizing after 2 months.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    Quite often the source of a seized cable is a single strand having let go, which then works itself inside the outer. Pulling the old inner out can be a prick, generally you need to put the inner in a vice and heave on the outer, although sometimes it becomes a crowbar job (although at that point I would discard everything and rebuild from scratch).

    Regular cable lubing and dying after a mere 8 weeks without use do not compute. Shit I would expect it to still be free 2 or more years later, not seizing after 2 months.
    So "she's dead Jim" is what you're saying?

    I agree that it is odd. But then going from slick free movement to stuck while parked up seems kind of odd too.

    Last time I cut the end and pulled it through with some significant force. I could not see any breaks but it definitely came through pretty easy once the first bit got moving.

    When I first pulled the current one off the bike I screwed the adjuster apart. That part was initially stuck too but a bit of crc got that moving.

    If I twist the cable but hold the housing the cable does not turn beyond the coupling. Not sure if that is relevant.


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  14. #14
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    Well, given it will do it's best to kill you given half a chance, yeah, it's dead.

    Breaks typically only in two places; at the barrel end, and a few inches down should the inner rub on the outer. Those you can spot as when you extend the cable fully, you can see a shiny spot on the inner.

    They're cheap, just order another

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    Well, given it will do it's best to kill you given half a chance, yeah, it's dead.

    Breaks typically only in two places; at the barrel end, and a few inches down should the inner rub on the outer. Those you can spot as when you extend the cable fully, you can see a shiny spot on the inner.

    They're cheap, just order another
    I will when I do the rebuild it needs later in year. No Money for parts until I can source and pay for piston and gasket kit. I was hoping I could get it moving to test someone else's CDI.
    Guess I'll have to work out how to kick start while kneeling beside the bike operating throttle manually.


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