Hello Guys,
At 13,100 km , my OEM Dunlop Z750 (front) is finally worn out, and the rear Bridgestone Trail Wing TW22 also need replacing after 9,000 km. My road pressure was 26 psi for the front, and 30 psi for the rear. The front showed a bit of scalloping, indicating that 26 psi might have been a little low. At any rate, I was happy with its feel and performance.
I have just got a set of Dunlop Trailmax Dual Sport tires fitted (these are not the TR91 or the D606). The guys at Red Baron recommended for road use 32 psi in the front and 36 psi in the rear. They suggested lowering the pressures by 2-3 psi for riding on metal roads.
Based on my own experience on the street, I would have thought that a front pressure of 28 and a rear of 32 psi for road use would be better. (These are tubed tires.)
Any comments from anyone?
Shit doesn't just happen; there's usually an arsehole involved.
I mentioned vegetables once, but I think I got away with it...........
Yeah, gravel roading, I'd run 24f/26r max and 26f/30r max for seal.
For the road and best tire wear Cycle treads are probably right, KLR is not superlight so could easily put some load on these pumped up tires
As Woodman say you wont get any metal road grip at those PSI's though, If you don't wont to carry a tire gauge and drop from road pressures, split the difference 27 - 32 pretty close to your numbers, though tire wear will be higher and gravel grip less (IMHO if your seriously punting you need to use the tire gauge and re pressure once back on the road)
Thanks guys.
I carry a pump and pressure gauge and don't mind adjusting tire pressure on the roadside.
I'll set the front at 28 and the rear at 32 for the time being on the road. I'll fine-tune the pressure from there. Despite the previous front tire scalloping a bit on the road at 26 psi, it gave really good feedback and never slipped out on me in 2 years. I figure than 28 on the road will be close to ideal. I got my cheap-and-nasty pressure gauge calibrated a while back and found that it read 4 psi too low. As a result, if it reads 30 psi, I know the true pressure to be 34 psi.
I'll also have to slacken the chain off slightly tomorrow morning. Although there's about 30 mm of slack in the chain when the bike's on its side stand, when I sit on it and reach down to check the chain tension, it is very tight. I'll find a tight spot and slacken at that position until there is just tiny bit of play when the suspension is loaded up with me on in the saddle.
Shit doesn't just happen; there's usually an arsehole involved.
Those are the pressures I run on My DRbig Which weighs about the same as the KLR, It has Dunlop 606's so plenty of grip on the metal at 27- 32 but do go down to 22 - 25 for mud and rocks and as low and as 12- 14 in the sand, If I was doing a big road trip would go up to 32-34 so numbers are all about right from experience
Tight spots in a chain are a pain, (to hard to get consistant chain tension) went to MotoX in Albany and bought a new 520 X ring chain as are well priced, problem fixed
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Speaking of pressures. Any thoughts on general pressures for the 705's on the bantam weight (135kg wet) DT? Can't be chavved faffing about for gravel & tar so a ball park figure for good wear and acceptable gripiness.
Manopausal.
The TT is 120kg wet and I run 24f/26r on the seal, any more and the front gets a little juddery over the bumps.
20f/18r in the gravel and 18f/16r off road.
The manual says 14f/14r off road...
Who here actually stops and adjusts their pressures up or down when the road surface changes?
I mentioned vegetables once, but I think I got away with it...........
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