Fried ECU - CBR1000RR

**baffa** · 22nd February 2016, 15:57

So my mate has fried my old CBR1000RR by trying to wire in a manual switch to the radiator fan.
He needs a new ECU, and has been quoted some terrifying prices from Holeshot.
Does anyone know a decent source for electronics?
He would need a new ECU with corresponding keys.
Holeshot Honda are quoting terrifying prices.

**nzspokes** · 22nd February 2016, 16:07

Originally Posted by baffa

So my mate has fried my old CBR1000RR by trying to wire in a manual switch to the radiator fan.
He needs a new ECU, and has been quoted some terrifying prices from Holeshot.
Does anyone know a decent source for electronics?
He would need a new ECU with corresponding keys.
Holeshot Honda are quoting terrifying prices.

Holeshot Honda?

Ebay will be the cheapest way.

**sidecar bob** · 22nd February 2016, 16:17

The ECU wont be fried, a small component within the ECU will be fried however.
There is a place in Katikati called Get It Fixed, 07 5495475. They replace the fried component/s & make them work again.
They just did a car one for me that had been immersed in water for several weeks due to a blocked plenum drain. Came back all good.

**tri boy** · 22nd February 2016, 16:59

Try Procom engineering.
Makers of Honda/Triumph/CanAm CDIs etc
Bought one for the Scrambler, when the theiving cunts at Triumph wanted %10 of the bikes new price, for a "read only"
gizmo.

**AllanB** · 22nd February 2016, 17:26

how friggen hard can it be to add a switch!

**Gremlin** · 22nd February 2016, 19:50

Originally Posted by AllanB

how friggen hard can it be to add a switch!

About as hard as adding a hugger (and drilling the ECU) or making the bike lighter (and adding holes to the frame).

Things are always easy... until they go wrong... then it's bad... often very bad

**spanner spinner** · 22nd February 2016, 20:18

try the Australian motorcycle wreckers, looks like http://www.vicwreck.com.au/ have a couple. Yes you will need the keys and get the parcel marked DO NOT XRAY, or you get a second dead ecu.

**spanner spinner** · 22nd February 2016, 20:23

Originally Posted by AllanB

how friggen hard can it be to add a switch!

the switch isn't the problem the back feed 12v is, modern ecu's don't like strange voltages applied to there outputs when they are looking for the resistance of the fan to earth. Some will go into limp mode if you just unplug the cooling fan as they think that the fan has gone faulty. The question is why did the bike need switch on the fan in the first place? The ecu controls the temp all by it's self.

**baffa** · 23rd February 2016, 11:35

Originally Posted by AllanB

how friggen hard can it be to add a switch!

It is extremely easy. He made a meal of it.

The bikes radiator fan is rather small, and with supersport fairings it overheats in traffic rather easily.
He uses it to commute, which isnt clever.

It is common in California and similiar hot climates to wire a simple override, so you can turn on the switch before it overheats, which helps keep temp down.
He attempted the same thing, but used an illuminated switch. Which needs a power source. So he found a source of power from the fuse board, and somehow sent a lot of voltage straight into the ECU.

Thanks for the feedback guys, I'll pass it on.

**The End** · 23rd February 2016, 12:46

Originally Posted by baffa

It is extremely easy. He made a meal of it.

The bikes radiator fan is rather small, and with supersport fairings it overheats in traffic rather easily.
He uses it to commute, which isnt clever.

It is common in California and similiar hot climates to wire a simple override, so you can turn on the switch before it overheats, which helps keep temp down.
He attempted the same thing, but used an illuminated switch. Which needs a power source. So he found a source of power from the fuse board, and somehow sent a lot of voltage straight into the ECU.

Thanks for the feedback guys, I'll pass it on.

I've been wanting to do this on my Hornet for a while now, and stories like this put me off as I see myself (with very little electrical knowledge) doing something stupid like this easily.

**AllanB** · 23rd February 2016, 19:27

Originally Posted by The End

I've been wanting to do this on my Hornet for a while now, and stories like this put me off as I see myself (with very little electrical knowledge) doing something stupid like this easily.

Hornet should not need a over ride switch. I found it a very efficient system and never had mine at a worrying temp. When did you last flush out and replace the coolant? Easy to do on the bike and should be replaced every three years or so.

**Mike.Gayner** · 23rd February 2016, 19:42

Originally Posted by Gremlin

About as hard as adding a hugger (and drilling the ECU) or making the bike lighter (and adding holes to the frame).

Got a link to drilling the ECU? That sounds too hilarious. I've seen the cutting holes in the frame, that was golden.

**The End** · 23rd February 2016, 21:40

Originally Posted by AllanB

Hornet should not need a over ride switch. I found it a very efficient system and never had mine at a worrying temp. When did you last flush out and replace the coolant? Easy to do on the bike and should be replaced every three years or so.

More so as a test to see what the different running temps mean for the exhaust smell - I've got a hotter themostat installed (about +9* from memory) and since I installed that I've not had the smell issue.

As for the fan, it comes on if I sit in traffic, stays on for a while then turns off. Comes back on a couple of mins later if still in traffic/low speeds.