'97 ZX9R - Whine at 80km/h

[T.W.R]

So if it is the output shaft, would I be right in thinking its the 2x 92045 ball bearings which need to be replaced?
What about things like bushings or the needle bearings, 92028A and the 2x 92046 ?

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ka...4/transmission

Thanks

Just the outer assembly: bearing (92045-1224)(6305), collar (92143-1757), & seal (92049-1361)

[WanaGo]

Ah yeah sorry, outer only.

92143 collar is no longer available, apparently. hmm
Cant see the seal you are referring to though (92049-1361), doesnt seem to be on that diagram

[T.W.R]

Ah yeah sorry, outer only.

92143 collar is no longer available, apparently. hmm
Cant see the seal you are referring to though (92049-1361), doesnt seem to be on that diagram

The collar may be no longer available through partzilla but try your local dealership there'll be an update part (superseded number OEM)
The seal is located on the engine casings diagram

it only stands to reason that'll be either the output shaft or wheel/hub bearings as with your diagnosis being the constant speed etc as those items are the only things that rotate at a constant relative to indicated speed. one or the other will be starting to collapse and the excessive float is causing the harmonic resonance.

[Honest Andy]

I get a terrible feeling about noisy bearings... afraid they're gonna lock up and turn in the housing...

Wheel bearings are cheap and usually pretty easy to change with the right tools.

But I had a rye grin reading the mechanics suggesting causes other than mechanical, I had a bike with a home-made screen once, made a sound like a dying horn (or a horn fed by a faulty switch), but only if there was no wind!

[WanaGo]

The collar may be no longer available through partzilla but try your local dealership there'll be an update part (superseded number OEM)
The seal is located on the engine casings diagram

it only stands to reason that'll be either the output shaft or wheel/hub bearings as with your diagnosis being the constant speed etc as those items are the only things that rotate at a constant relative to indicated speed. one or the other will be starting to collapse and the excessive float is causing the harmonic resonance.

Thanks very much, I appreciate the help.

OK found that seal - nice.

OK ill give the local dealership a call and see if they have that collar, as well as the other bits I guess. Last time I enquired for parts, everything had to come in from Japan.

So you dont think it could be the needle bearing on the other end of the shaft, which sits in the race?

[T.W.R]

Thanks very much, I appreciate the help.

OK found that seal - nice.

OK ill give the local dealership a call and see if they have that collar, as well as the other bits I guess. Last time I enquired for parts, everything had to come in from Japan.

So you dont think it could be the needle bearing on the other end of the shaft, which sits in the race?

If they haven't got a replacement bearing sitting in stock there'll be something drastically wrong it isn't anything special just 6305 doesn't have to be OEM & most of them are just NSK anyhow. The seal should be in the country at least as its a slightly lower turnover consumable item, the collar though could be ex overseas...Aussie if not then Jap.

Starting digging further internally and you start disturbing more and the cost starts to climb
The cause of it all will be that's it's had some harsh treatment in a past life and things are waving the flag of "I've had enough, get me out of here". There's meant to be a small amount of float & the final bearing is meant to take drive line lash but it'll only take so much

[WanaGo]

If they haven't got a replacement bearing sitting in stock there'll be something drastically wrong it isn't anything special just 6305 doesn't have to be OEM & most of them are just NSK anyhow. The seal should be in the country at least as its a slightly lower turnover consumable item, the collar though could be ex overseas...Aussie if not then Jap.

Starting digging further internally and you start disturbing more and the cost starts to climb
The cause of it all will be that's it's had some harsh treatment in a past life and things are waving the flag of "I've had enough, get me out of here". There's meant to be a small amount of float & the final bearing is meant to take drive line lash but it'll only take so much

Sounds great

Yeah I called SKF earlier and they didnt know what the end numbers on the 6305 was (6305N2SH2) thats in the Kawasaki listing, but they said it can likely be replaced with a 6305C3 which is for higher temps than a usual 6305 - $18 or so.
I havent enquired about NSK though, however I assume it would be somewhat similar?
You wouldnt know if the output shaft bearing can come out without taking the engine out do you? I dont have my Haynes with me right now.

Thanks

[Katman]

OK ill give the local dealership a call and see if they have that collar, as well as the other bits I guess. Last time I enquired for parts, everything had to come in from Japan.

Have you tried it with the fuel cap open yet?

[Grumph]

Sounds great

Yeah I called SKF earlier and they didnt know what the end numbers on the 6305 was (6305N2SH2) thats in the Kawasaki listing, but they said it can likely be replaced with a 6305C3 which is for higher temps than a usual 6305 - $18 or so.
I havent enquired about NSK though, however I assume it would be somewhat similar?
You wouldnt know if the output shaft bearing can come out without taking the engine out do you? I dont have my Haynes with me right now.

Thanks

Not quite that simple. The output shaft bearing will have a circlip groove in the outer race and possibly a locating pin as well. These stop the bearing moving sideways or spinning in the housing. Personally I would not install a plain 6305 which does not have the same features as the OE bearing.

If it has either of the features mentioned, it's split the cases to change it.

[Grumph]

Have you tried it with the fuel cap open yet?

please try this....

[sidecar bob]

I get a terrible feeling about noisy bearings... afraid they're gonna lock up and turn in the housing...

Wheel bearings are cheap and usually pretty easy to change with the right tools.

But I had a rye grin reading the mechanics suggesting causes other than mechanical!

I've chased some bloody random noises in cars over the years & wasted a lot of time doing it.
My favourite was the cellphone in the door pocket on vibrate with a txt wating that went off every 3 minutes.
After a crap description by the owner of what was up I took it around the block. Got back to the workshop & handed him the phone & said "you have a message" & walked away.
I've also had an entire packet of colouring in pencils under the rear parcel shelf trim, a can of baked beans in the spare wheel well, a heap of walnut shells in the blower fan, stashed there by a rat, buggered pcv valves that sound like a duck is trapped in the engine bay, etc etc.
Notice there's a place called "oil changers" but no place called "find that cunt of a noise"

[WanaGo]

Have you tried it with the fuel cap open yet?

Will do after work when I get home, just need a baby sitter.

[Kickaha]

Notice there's a place called "oil changers" but no place called "find that cunt of a noise"

Could be a new business opportunity for someone

[FJRider]

The noise at 80 is still there.
It doesnt matter what gear your in, what RPM, clutch in or out, the noise is there at 80km/h, +/- about 5km/h around that.
When you pull the clutch in, the whine sound volume increases.

I had a similar issue with a GS1000s.

Tire(s) on smooth asphalt roads was found to be the issue. Some tires worse than others.

Plus or minus speeds it doesn't happen ... pull the clutch in and you hear it clearer, not louder.

On coarse chip roads it seldom occurs.

[pete376403]

Kawasaki parts from japan (I order from Motorad) are not too bad, maybe two weeks tops