Originally Posted by
OddDuck
Engine rebuild - OK, here's a few quick ideas, no particular order:
Cash is easy to run out of when doing this work, strongly suggest buying tools as the need arises, not trying to guess what you'll need in advance. There'll be a lot of trips back and forth but if cash runs out then the job stops.
6 point sockets are best unless you're dealing with a 12-point fastener. If a 1/2 inch format socket is a bit too big in a cramped area you'll need to run a few 3/8ths sockets and accessories. If the socket won't fit square then stop the job and go shopping, no matter how annoying it is. A ripped up bolt will hold you for a whole afternoon.
CRC / WD40 / PB Blaster - this stuff works but has to soak in and that takes time. Spray the jammed fastener and then give it an hour at least (three is better) before trying to undo anything.
Ziplock bags (Lots of, range of sizes, Stationary Warehouse) for fastener groups and parts. Cardboard works very well for bolt arrangements as discussed earlier. Oiled parts like camshafts need to be in sealed bags or else the oil will evaporate off (if it's apart for months) and then they'll rust.
Labels. Label everything!!
Photos. As above. I've found I get the best results from avoiding flash, that means long exposures and therefore a tripod, see how you go of course.
Storage boxes. Storage space i.e. under the house... the bike's volume is going to expand dramatically as it comes to bits, get things off it and straight into storage, don't litter the work area and make yourself an obstacle course.
Lighting. Make sure you've got good lighting. I painted my garage walls white and put in 6 overhead lights; it's made an incredible difference to what was a cave.
Torque wrench, get one if you haven't already. Some of the cheaper brands (Bahco, Toledo) are actually OK but I'd avoid Kinchrome, if unsure ask around or here.
Fasteners to be torqued: they should spin together to closing by finger and thumb. If they don't then you aren't going to get accurate torques. You may need taps to clean up female threads, male threads can generally be cleaned up with a brass wire brush.
If the manual says to use Loctite, well, that's there for good reason...
Degreaser is good. I've had a good run with the 30 Seconds Automotive stuff (white jerrycan, red fluid, mix with water and give it a few minutes before using). Everyone's got their own preferences.
Impact driver: you will almost certainly need one of these, and a bench with a vise with soft grip jaws, to get the carburettors apart. The screw heads on these are made of very soft steel and have to be treated with great care, a normal screwdriver is quite likely to tear these up.
You can purchase sockets and extension bars, drivers etc individually as you need them, that saves a lot of coin. M10 offer that option these days, it's also possible to do this at places like Repco, Twigg's, Trade Tools, etc etc.
Measuring gear - I've found a good set of feeler gauges, a manual set of vernier calipers, and a 0 to 25mm micrometer invaluable when doing engine work. If you're checking gudgeon pins, pistons and bores you may need transfer gauges and 25 -50, 50 - 75 micrometers etc. Good brands: Mitutoyo, Insize. Stanley is OK only (they do feeler gauges at least) and actively avoid Kinchrome, particularly the digital vernier calipers. They look the business and they're easy to buy but they're awful. Web orders through Trade Tools have worked for me, see how you go.
I imagine that's way more than enough for now... the main bit of advice I'd offer is take it step by step, take your time, never hurry or take on too much at once and you'll get there.
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks