Mazda have a green ( Mazda2 Spirited Green Metallic 36A) that is a very close match for my 08 KLR, which is slightly metallic. The 72 F9 that I had was extremely close to Terex earthmover green.Originally Posted by speedpro
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Mazda have a green ( Mazda2 Spirited Green Metallic 36A) that is a very close match for my 08 KLR, which is slightly metallic. The 72 F9 that I had was extremely close to Terex earthmover green.
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
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Bucket Racer/Crasher
The sensible twin has made it to the garage where work sometimes happens. Plugs have been pulled so I can spin it over and check for spark. It doesn't spin easily. It's hard enough that I doubt I can spin it and check for spark at the same time. One lead disconnected from it's coil but that was the cylinder that looked like it had been running. Currently I have a couple of standard carbs plugged in. I know they work, just not very well. One has a slightly sticky slide. I'll have to borrow a kart starter from my mate. I should be able to turn it over with that and check for spark at the same time.
Low personal B.M.E.P.
It's got a fair bit of compression but I was spinning it with a 2-speed 3/8 drill. How's it feel turning the outside flywheel by hand ?
Bucket Racer/Crasher
It runs OK with stock carbs. It blips OK considering at least one slide is a bit sticky.
The ease with which I could start it with the kart starter has convinced me to modify my alternator cover to allow the same thing on my motor. I have no idea why I haven't done it before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9ZiAJhiIDE
Low personal B.M.E.P.
Well done. Still got the cam cover leak ?
Bucket Racer/Crasher
Not sure. There is a slight leak but my suspicion is that it is from the area around the left crankcase cover plate. I need to run it for a bit longer and really clean it first.
Low personal B.M.E.P.
One of the things I didn't get round to was a couple of dummy cam caps that the side plate could be screwed to. No positive clamping on the plate above barrel level. Suspect it isn't flat enough to seal on the cam cover end.
Anorak
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Bucket Racer/Crasher
The sensible twin has a new home. I've been tied up with my other projects including my son's 600 now. Getting the sensible twin on track was looking less and less likely which was disappointing. Hopefully it won't be too long until we see it on track now.
Pretengineer
Well it appears I have been entrusted with getting the Sensible twin to the track where it belongs. I figure I get it up and running, see what little issues pop up and go from there.
I spent a bit of time trying to get the NSR flat slides to work, but no matter how much fettling with the float levels it was either flooding or no fuel at all. So I've come up with a plan to get the bike on track as close to the current setup as possible but hopefully still show its potential. I have a set of 3LN carbs here, so trimmed them down to 2 cylinders and put them on, bike fired straight up and idles nicely. It seemed to lean bog as it got onto the main jet so went up a few jet sizes and runs pretty well possibly still a bit lean, but really need to put it under load.
Time to address the oil leak, I popped the cylinder end plate off and impressively the plugs in the end of the cams to block oil had rotated sideways and were acting as oil jets against the end plate, Probably lucky it did leak as would most likely be low on oil pressure. I think I'll turn up some solid plugs and tap them in with some retaining compound.
With a bit of luck I will have it back together tomorrow for a first road test.
The long term plan to really make the most of this great engine is to fuel inject it. I'm curious as to what would be the optimal throttle body size for it.
A short video here: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Mc0NQ4Q4zKA
Low personal B.M.E.P.
Well, that was unexpected. What happened to the order for downdraft Yoshi carbs ?
The 28 FCR downdrafts I ordered and paid for some years back still haven't arrived
and the supplier has been silent since the money arrived.
I'd suspect the midrange stumble with the CV's can be tuned out by enlarging the
vacuum sensing holes in the bottom of the slides - a little at a time.
It's worked for me many times previously.
Anorak
all those dynojet and similar kits used to have the drill I remember they had stiffer springs as well
I remember Bob saying he used to preload the std springs with washers for good results.
I would make sure I had some form of airbox.
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Bucket Racer/Crasher
As we've discussed, this might be of interest to you for the other project. https://youtu.be/6u-tYvooY60?si=S90sydwgDTtJfPdY
125GP!!!
I'm working with Sketchy on this project. Previously, we used an NO2C board with a Mega microcontroller (NO2C v0.2.x) in a setup that handled up to 12k RPM on batched injection. Based on that experience, we're confident a mega based speeduino can handle 18k RPM in sequential mode as long as we use a low tooth count on the cam input to avoid overwhelming the microcontroller.
Currently we have one ready to test on the "other" project to verify this. If not we will go to stm32 or teensy based speeduino like the dropbear you suggested
The sensible twin has a head gasket leak, so we'll pull it apart tonight, and go over it.
Since efi components are coming this week, so we will go straight to efi. Will post updates as we go.
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