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Thread: Some photo hints.

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mynameis View Post
    Big Dave, cheers mate, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge publicly on KB. Just have a few questions :

    What camera do you recommend? I know it's a bit like saying what tyres should I buy? Will depend on your budget as well but what brands are the better ones in your opinion? What type of SLR should you be looking at, if you're planning to buy one?
    Too hard. Everyone is different.

    I use a Canon 400D with 18-55 55-200 lenses for gigs in a decision determined by my budget. I would have preferred a Nikon D80, but more than I wanted to spend. Sony make good stuff. Get googling.


    Quote Originally Posted by mynameis View Post
    I see you changed the angle of Sparkys pic aye? What programme do you normally use to edit? Mac?
    Only Photoshop. Always Mac.

    Quote Originally Posted by mynameis View Post
    Do you have to buy and carry different special lenses to achieve good pictures? And what sort of distance should you be from the bike?
    See above re lenses.

    Distance is detrmined by how far away you can get and STILL frame the picture the way you want.

    Thanks and sorry for the no0ob photography questions but your pictures are awesome!![/quote]

    cheers

  2. #17
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    That was awesome Mr. Dave... will keep that stuff in mind
    There's nothing more exhilarating than pointing out the shortcomings of others, is there? -Clerks

  3. #18
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    One of things a lot of am's make is getting the background in focus.(flat) As a rule it is normaly a no-no. While there is a place for this, most professional photo's will have the background out of focus. This allows the eye to concentrate on the subject that the photographer is shooting. It's all tied up with focal length aperture and shutter speed.

    That was a pretty good lay out BD.

    Skyryder
    Free Scott Watson.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skyryder View Post
    One of things a lot of am's make is getting the background in focus.(flat) As a rule it is normaly a no-no.
    It's like the Pirate Code - More of a guideline.

  5. #20
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    Excellent write up, plenty of things for me to practice in there.

  6. #21
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    Smile

    Big Dave - Great tips. Cheers, much appreciated.



    Nice to see the picture of Keystone19 on Gareth's old 'MILF Team' bike just before she decides to jump-off/drop-it with out putting the sidestand down to race back to help the fallen rider after his 2 stroke bike ceased up on him... that she almost ran over him in that shot. A great shot.

  7. #22
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    I just picked up a Canon 40D with a EFS 17-85 lens. I want a 100 - 400 telephoto lens but the pricks are asking $3000. They must be joking.

    Is a Sigma okay? Recommendations?

  8. #23
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    40D?
    I hate you.

    Sigma is fine.
    I'd go for a 70-200 f2.8 with a 1.4xTC

    Go for a Sigma 120-300 f2.8

  9. #24
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    The BikeStore photos were all taken with a Canon 400D with a 70-300 lens with Canon's two-stage image stabilisation built into it. Because the Canon 400D doesn't have a full-size CCD, the lens is actually more like 216-480 (multiply the focal lengths by 1.6, apparently).

    The one thing I have trouble with is getting racing shots with motion blur ont he background, as in your red Honda at Puke shot above. I usually specify ISO400 or 800 (depending on the light) and then use the camera's appeture priority mode. Leaving it at f5.6 or something similar means a very fast shutter speed, but that's the only way I've found to avoid motion blur on the bike I'm targetting. Any clues?

    But thanks for the info, DC - much appreciated.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sanx View Post
    Any clues?
    My best motion blurs are shot manual

    widest apperture - ISO100 - about 360th sec. (at Puke on a good day.)

    Manual focus on the spot.

    Follow pan with bike and expose at the spot you have focussed on.

    The accuracy of the pan is the key. Has to be in complete unison with the bike and exposed on the spot or the whole thing is custard.

    I'm pretty good at it - I hit one good shot out of 4 on average.
    You have to get solid shots in the bank first - then chase blurrrrrrrrr.

  11. #26
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    Thanks for that, dude. Might have to go along to a test day soon and have a practice ... and stand back from the track a bit. I was definitely too close from those kind of panning shots the other day.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finn View Post
    I just picked up a Canon 40D with a EFS 17-85 lens. I want a 100 - 400 telephoto lens but the pricks are asking $3000. They must be joking.

    Is a Sigma okay? Recommendations?
    400 lens is a PITA to carry on a bike and you need a monopod for best results too.
    Even minor shake - unless it's 2000th+ second stuff is a hassle at that max focal length.

    I get by with a 200 (and photoshop skill.)

  13. #28
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    Looking space is important too leave more space infront of a moving subject than behind it (again general rule) this applies in video too.

  14. #29
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    FANTASTIC tips, cheers!!!
    Yeah yeah... vroom vrooooom baby!!

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sanx View Post
    The one thing I have trouble with is getting racing shots with motion blur ont he background, as in your red Honda at Puke shot above. I usually specify ISO400 or 800 (depending on the light) and then use the camera's appeture priority mode. Leaving it at f5.6 or something similar means a very fast shutter speed, but that's the only way I've found to avoid motion blur on the bike I'm targetting. Any clues?
    Shutter priority 1/320th or so to start with, ISO100 and practice.


    Aperture priority if you want to control depth, shutter priority if you want to control blur.

    And as the Wise One says, leave them some space to ride/drive into.

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