Replace or Rebuild Shock?

[TDC]

Woah woah woah there poos... everyone on the internet says it's a good swap, and on the 400greybike forums, they all do it. So it must be good and work properly. I mean, they couldn't all be wrong could they? People aren't fundamentally retards are they? Say it isn't so!

While I don't usually recommend a change like this, it does seem to work reasonably well in practice. One has to wonder haw many crash test volunteers are consumed in this "after market compatibility testing"....

If you don't have money do the above change, the rebuilds are usually only possible till about 16 - 20K, after this the body is usually too worn to make it worth while.

If you have the cash invest in a premium shock, you will wonder why you waited so long to do it......

[imdying]

While I don't usually recommend a change like this, it does seem to work reasonably well in practice. One has to wonder haw many crash test volunteers are consumed in this "after market compatibility testing"....

Thankfully people like yourself are so generous with their time and experience, I don't understand why someone would go down that path without consulting someone like yourself

[Coyote]

While I don't usually recommend a change like this, it does seem to work reasonably well in practice. One has to wonder haw many crash test volunteers are consumed in this "after market compatibility testing"....

If you don't have money do the above change, the rebuilds are usually only possible till about 16 - 20K, after this the body is usually too worn to make it worth while.

If you have the cash invest in a premium shock, you will wonder why you waited so long to do it......

I don't have the cash, that's why I'm considering paying less for a shock off another bike. I'd much rather get Ohlins of course but that's extremely unlikely.

The bike has done 70,000kms. The shock shat it's oil about 2000kms ago, got bouncier and it's pretty well shagged now. After that many k's, is a rebuild even worthwhile for this shock?

NC30s and NC24s aren't exactly the same. Coyote is actually a pleasant lad and it would be nice to see him make curmudgeon.
....

Steering head bearings can be done yourself. Buy the replacements from Shrodoco and it will cost you about a third of the price for OEM bearings. The front wheel can be repaired easily. I try and find the name of the company who fixed my TRX front wheel and repainted it for $230 inc. freight.

We both have NC30's, so if it fits his it should fit mine. And don't worry, this bike and the last girlfriend have forged me into a spiteful and resentful person, I just do my best to appear pleasant on the whole.

At this stage, montsta56 shock sounds like a good deal ($150 sound reasonable?) and I'll give that a shot unless more people speak out against the idea like Sir Poos did. Then I'll get it rebuilt, if it can be done.

Gosh, could get a wheel from a wreckers for $100-150. There's a fair amount of front wheels around that'll suit the VFR since Honda used them on a few of their bikes (from my understanding).

[James Deuce]

I don't have the cash, that's why I'm considering paying less for a shock off another bike. I'd much rather get Ohlins of course but that's extremely unlikely.

The bike has done 70,000kms. The shock shat it's oil about 2000kms ago, got bouncier and it's pretty well shagged now. After that many k's, is a rebuild even worthwhile for this shock?

We both have NC30's, so if it fits his it should fit mine. And don't worry, this bike and the last girlfriend have forged me into a spiteful and resentful person, I just do my best to appear pleasant on the whole.

At this stage, montsta56 shock sounds like a good deal ($150 sound reasonable?) and I'll give that a shot unless more people speak out against the idea like Sir Poos did. Then I'll get it rebuilt, if it can be done.

Gosh, could get a wheel from a wreckers for $100-150. There's a fair amount of front wheels around that'll suit the VFR since Honda used them on a few of their bikes (from my understanding).

That's hilarious! The one time I saw it I assumed it was a 24. It seems to have suffered some creative re-modelling.

It's better than a shock with no oil, but by crikey, without re-valving and re-springing your asking for one of those, "WTF happened" accidents.

If it can be rebuilt, Robert's your man. If it can't well, c'est la vie.

[Coyote]

That's hilarious! The one time I saw it I assumed it was a 24. It seems to have suffered some creative re-modelling.

Grrr. How long ago was this anyway? I've got a new screen, side fairings back on and painted the tail (needs some glossy clearcoat though). It looks pretty good despite the few scratches and stone chips (from when the front mudgaurd broke off).

It's better than a shock with no oil, but by crikey, without re-valving and re-springing your asking for one of those, "WTF happened" accidents.

If it can be rebuilt, Robert's your man. If it can't well, c'est la vie.

Argh, being convinced to go the more expensive way dammit... Is there anyone down here that can have a look at it first and say with certainty that Rob will be able to rebuild it?

[TDC]

Grrr. How long ago was this anyway? I've got a new screen, side fairings back on and painted the tail (needs some glossy clearcoat though). It looks pretty good despite the few scratches and stone chips (from when the front mudgaurd broke off).

Argh, being convinced to go the more expensive way dammit... Is there anyone down here that can have a look at it first and say with certainty that Rob will be able to rebuild it?

With those kind of K's its not sounding hopeful. The only way to know for sure is to look inside, which I can do, but if its been ridden for some time with no oil I wouldn't bother with the labour charge for inspecting it.

Like I have said just a little while ago the modification suggested seems to net performance in excess of stock with no obvious horrible / dangerous side effects (much to my amazement). Its not going to be a long term fix, all OEM shocks die young.

If you are short for cash at least make the step you can afford (the bike surly can't be made more dangerous than it is) (bent rim , no damping....), it sounds like the bike is not eligible for a WOF (or at least shouldn't be). Use the time that this low cost option is buying you to save for a better (read Swedish) solution

[Coyote]

With those kind of K's its not sounding hopeful. The only way to know for sure is to look inside, which I can do, but if its been ridden for some time with no oil I wouldn't bother with the labour charge for inspecting it.

Like I have said just a little while ago the modification suggested seems to net performance in excess of stock with no obvious horrible / dangerous side effects (much to my amazement). Its not going to be a long term fix, all OEM shocks die young.

If you are short for cash at least make the step you can afford (the bike surly can't be made more dangerous than it is) (bent rim , no damping....), it sounds like the bike is not eligible for a WOF (or at least shouldn't be). Use the time that this low cost option is buying you to save for a better (read Swedish) solution

So an SP1 shock is worth a shot? At least just to keep the bike going from A to B untill the upgrade?

I should make a poll really...

The rim isn't bent by a hell of a lot. Just the brakes phase in and out. I've replaced the disks, the pads are yet to be renewed (another $120 for pads was too much after spending $400 for disks, I know you are meant to replace the lot at the same time...) which would hopefully make braking smoother. But I did have a chain around the front when the steering lock wasn't working and I did forget it so I wouldn't be surprised if the wheel got knocked out of round.

I've only made a few half arsed attempts at getting a full time job, untill then the VFR will take any money away from my savings.

[Robert Taylor]

So an SP1 shock is worth a shot? At least just to keep the bike going from A to B untill the upgrade?

I should make a poll really...

The rim isn't bent by a hell of a lot. Just the brakes phase in and out. I've replaced the disks, the pads are yet to be renewed (another $120 for pads was too much after spending $400 for disks, I know you are meant to replace the lot at the same time...) which would hopefully make braking smoother. But I did have a chain around the front when the steering lock wasn't working and I did forget it so I wouldn't be surprised if the wheel got knocked out of round.

I've only made a few half arsed attempts at getting a full time job, untill then the VFR will take any money away from my savings.

As a basis of comparison an Ohlins NC30 shock has a minimum length of 307mm with a stroke of 50mm and a spring rate of 14 newtons. The SP1 ohlins shock has figures of 326mm minimum length, 63mm stroke and a 9 newton spring with rebound valving to match. Those figures are pretty much akin to the standard oem shocks. To fit an overlong shock with a soft spring is nuts, and I disagree that it is an adequate fix ( at best ) Have these guys got a shock dyno and motion ratio curves at their disposal?
It always amazes me ( as a generalisation ) ''if it fits......''
I can understand the cold hard reality of economic neccessity But also there is a responsibility for personal safety and those of other road users in your path. I wonder aloud how many have been maimed or killed because of a cheap fix?

[JD Racing]

VFR shocks really are a piece of junk, if you spend $300 on it you'll still be left with a piece of junk and $300 less in your pocket. You might even be left with nothing I've seen these shocks where the shaft has pitted inside the body, outside it looks ok, inside it's trashed.

Spend the money on a proper shock, even if you have a minor tip off due to a bad shock, you'll easy spend double the money of a shock on bodywork, levers, footrests, why take that gamble?

[Coyote]

As a basis of comparison an Ohlins NC30 shock has a minimum length of 307mm with a stroke of 50mm and a spring rate of 14 newtons. The SP1 ohlins shock has figures of 326mm minimum length, 63mm stroke and a 9 newton spring with rebound valving to match. Those figures are pretty much akin to the standard oem shocks. To fit an overlong shock with a soft spring is nuts, and I disagree that it is an adequate fix ( at best ) Have these guys got a shock dyno and motion ratio curves at their disposal?
It always amazes me ( as a generalisation ) ''if it fits......''
I can understand the cold hard reality of economic neccessity But also there is a responsibility for personal safety and those of other road users in your path. I wonder aloud how many have been maimed or killed because of a cheap fix?

VFR shocks really are a piece of junk, if you spend $300 on it you'll still be left with a piece of junk and $300 less in your pocket. You might even be left with nothing I've seen these shocks where the shaft has pitted inside the body, outside it looks ok, inside it's trashed.

Spend the money on a proper shock, even if you have a minor tip off due to a bad shock, you'll easy spend double the money of a shock on bodywork, levers, footrests, why take that gamble?

Can you rebuild the VFR's shock to a better than stock condition?

If the VFR's shock isn't worth bothering with, then what is? Any money going towards this shock is going to be borrowed so don't get dreamy and say "get ohlins" because I simply can't afford it.

Or should I buy a scooter?

[imdying]

Persevere with the VFR mate, do it right when you can... they're fab bikes, I've been riding for a long time now, and I'd still add one to my stable in a flash. It's the sorta bike that you'll still enjoy riding even once you get a larger animal

[Coyote]

Persevere with the VFR mate, do it right when you can... they're fab bikes, I've been riding for a long time now, and I'd still add one to my stable in a flash. It's the sorta bike that you'll still enjoy riding even once you get a larger animal

Yeah, it's definately a great model of bike, just I got an old one. It's good to keep a modern classic on the road but then again I need transport and I have little cash.

I want to hang onto the bike ideally. At least there's not so much value in it to tempt me into trading it in. Doesn't help still living with the parents and getting their constant opinion

[imdying]

Yeah I had that, so I brought a bigger faster one

[koba]

Dunno if it helps but may interest someone that my NC21 rear shock doesn't feel the best at 30 somthing thousand kays.
Its OK but I know It could be much better.

[Shaun]

If you cannot afford an after market New shock, get on internet for wreckers in Australia, and see if you can find a used low milage original, untill you have enough to buy a quality after market unit, Penske-or Ohlin's would be my choice