2500 bucks to rebuild the engine

[partireper.it]

Yup Should do

it says:

COMPRESSION= 1177 +- 98 Kpa (12.0 +- 1.0 kg/cm2, 171 +- 14 psi)

is this it?

[pete376403]

Unless there is a compelling reason (eg nasty loud noises) you shouldn't need to get into the crankshaft/gearbox/clutch area of the motor.
The problems you are describing indicate lack of compression - new piston rings, and a good valve grind at best, rebored cylinders, new pistons AND rings and new valves at worst.
can you post the itemized estimate / quote for the engine repairs?

[partireper.it]

Unless there is a compelling reason (eg nasty loud noises) you shouldn't need to get into the crankshaft/gearbox/clutch area of the motor.
The problems you are describing indicate lack of compression - new piston rings, and a good valve grind at best, rebored cylinders, new pistons AND rings and new valves at worst.
can you post the itemized estimate / quote for the engine repairs?

sure can! as soon as mr Kevin of KG motorcycle issue his, ill do it.

i visited him yeasteday. he got frame and engine number so he can tell me that in a week!

[FilthyLuka]

it says:

COMPRESSION= 1177 +- 98 Kpa (12.0 +- 1.0 kg/cm2, 171 +- 14 psi)

is this it?

Yep, thats exactly what you want. Most compression guages will have one of those three units of measurement on em

[partireper.it]

Yep, thats exactly what you want. Most compression guages will have one of those three units of measurement on em

so let's say these units are not matched on the bike compression test....

will that tell me straight away that it's just a metter of certain parts instead of the whole engine to be rebuilt?

here some youtube test....

i apologize for the quality and for my italian!

from my forum

[FilthyLuka]

so let's say these units are not matched on the bike compression test....

will that tell me straight away that it's just a metter of certain parts instead of the whole engine to be rebuilt?

here some youtube test....

i apologize for the quality and for my italian!

from my forum

If the units are not matched by the compression tester, it will tell you that you have low compression, the cause of this could be a number of things. The only way to tell is to pull of the cylinder head (heads in your case if both have dodge compression) and have a squiz.

Italians eh? Fucking Italians (I'm Croatian and it is a pisstake)

[pete376403]

it says:

COMPRESSION= 1177 +- 98 Kpa (12.0 +- 1.0 kg/cm2, 171 +- 14 psi)

is this it?

Yes it is. the + - is the allowed tolerance. Both cylinders should be pretty much the same. The test should be done with the engine hot and the throttle held fully open
Once you test the compression and get readings, if they are down below the allowed lower limit, squirt a small (small as in about a teaspoonful) amount of oil into the spark plug holes and run the tests again. This will assist sealing the rings to the cylinder wall. If the compression pressure rises a lot, that would indicate the rings are failing. If the figure remains much the same, that would indicate it is the valves not sealing.

[Ixion]

That figure (171 psi) would be the "as new" figure. How much lower it can be before needing attention is up to each person. for m'self, I'd say 120psi was OK, 100psi getting toward time for attention and under 100psi time to put on the moth protection. But more meticulous riders might want bigger numbers.

A low compression figure shows that the top part of the engine is worn (or damaged but usually just worn). The cylinders, pistons, valves.

The bottom part, crankshaft, rods etc may be fine. But , if the engine has done enough miles to wear out the top part, it's reasonable to expect some degree of wear on the bottom part (two strokes are a special case).

If the Transalp ahs plain big ends (I don't know if it does) and there is somewhere you can screw in an oil pressure gauge , that would give a good idea of the condition of the bottom end. testing for movement in the big ends doesn't always tell the whole story (as many a BSA A65 owner has found to his sorrow).

About fuel consumption, do bear in mind that carburettors can wear out, just like anything else. And cleaning them or tuning them won't fix that. They'll just be nice clean tuned up worn out carbs.

[partireper.it]

If the units are not matched by the compression tester, it will tell you that you have low compression, the cause of this could be a number of things. The only way to tell is to pull of the cylinder head (heads in your case if both have dodge compression) and have a squiz.

Italians eh? Fucking Italians (I'm Croatian and it is a pisstake)

most of the time i was riding in croatia i was naked. There are so many nude beaches. But i loved it.

Italians should always be naked anyway!

[partireper.it]

Yes it is. the + - is the allowed tolerance. Both cylinders should be pretty much the same. The test should be done with the engine hot and the throttle held fully open
Once you test the compression and get readings, if they are down below the allowed lower limit, squirt a small (small as in about a teaspoonful) amount of oil into the spark plug holes and run the tests again. This will assist sealing the rings to the cylinder wall. If the compression pressure rises a lot, that would indicate the rings are failing. If the figure remains much the same, that would indicate it is the valves not sealing.

now, that's a very handy and important trick to know. i guess ill be back here once i know the units and the compression datas. so you may tell me what you reckon it's wrong with the dinosaur (what honda australia used to call my bike)

thanks for that....

[partireper.it]

That figure (171 psi) would be the "as new" figure. How much lower it can be before needing attention is up to each person. for m'self, I'd say 120psi was OK, 100psi getting toward time for attention and under 100psi time to put on the moth protection. But more meticulous riders might want bigger numbers.

A low compression figure shows that the top part of the engine is worn (or damaged but usually just worn). The cylinders, pistons, valves.

The bottom part, crankshaft, rods etc may be fine. But , if the engine has done enough miles to wear out the top part, it's reasonable to expect some degree of wear on the bottom part (two strokes are a special case).

If the Transalp ahs plain big ends (I don't know if it does) and there is somewhere you can screw in an oil pressure gauge , that would give a good idea of the condition of the bottom end. testing for movement in the big ends doesn't always tell the whole story (as many a BSA A65 owner has found to his sorrow).

About fuel consumption, do bear in mind that carburettors can wear out, just like anything else. And cleaning them or tuning them won't fix that. They'll just be nice clean tuned up worn out carbs.

the more complicated it gets, the poorer i feel. which means i will probably pay someone else to do this for me. professionaly!

honda where are you?!?!

[surfer]

the more complicated it gets, the poorer i feel. which means i will probably pay someone else to do this for me. professionaly!

honda where are you?!?!

Seriously dude most of it is not complicated.

Make a list of things to do in the order that they should be done, you can check your list with comments from people on this site (of course be mindful that not all advice may be puka).

Then put some costs to the list.

Start with the easy to do stuff first.

Ask for help from people living nearby you if you get stuck or need some clarification on something and need to be shown.

Have an adventure and learn. You don't have to do everything but see how it goes before you decide it is too complicated.

Good luck

[partireper.it]

Seriously dude most of it is not complicated.

Make a list of things to do in the order that they should be done, you can check your list with comments from people on this site (of course be mindful that not all advice may be puka).

Then put some costs to the list.

Start with the easy to do stuff first.

Ask for help from people living nearby you if you get stuck or need some clarification on something and need to be shown.

Have an adventure and learn. You don't have to do everything but see how it goes before you decide it is too complicated.

Good luck

thank you so much. ill try. i promise!

[xwhatsit]

the more complicated it gets, the poorer i feel. which means i will probably pay someone else to do this for me. professionaly!

honda where are you?!?!

He's simply saying to do a compression test -- if it's at least 120psi, then it's probably OK. If it's below that, then you need to do some engine work, but probably just the top end (valves, piston, rings, cylinder etc). Which won't cost you anywhere near $2500.

[JimBob]

Who told you the engine needs a rebuild?
Why did they tell you this?
110,000km is nothing.
Is high fuel consumption the only problem you are aware of ?
Get a second opinion
You dont want to be rebuiding the engine to fix a carb problem.
Unless it uses oil as fast as you can put it in or makes great clanking and clunking sounds, assume the engine isnt knackered.
good luck