Matching tyres - big deal ??

[Hitcher]

Its like breasts mate--a pear would look weird alongside a good ol melon.
profile/shape

But a 120/70 17 has a different *profile* to a 180/55 17, no matter what its parentage may be?

[FROSTY:Me]

Um ok --BTB
different tyre desighns have different shapes-imagine cutting a slice through the carcase.
For example
One type of tyre is going to have a sort of triangular looking shape, Another will look rounded.
you cant (ohh ok shouldn't -nothings impossible) fit a rear tyre thats round when the fronts triangular.
actually best way to put it -if you cut a slice across both front and rear tyres the front should fit nicely inside the rear -sorta like stacking bowls

[Hitcher]

I think I understand now, thanks.

[flyingcrocodile46]

Um ok --BTB
different tyre desighns have different shapes-imagine cutting a slice through the carcase.
For example
One type of tyre is going to have a sort of triangular looking shape, Another will look rounded.
you cant (ohh ok shouldn't -nothings impossible) fit a rear tyre thats round when the fronts triangular.
actually best way to put it -if you cut a slice across both front and rear tyres the front should fit nicely inside the rear -sorta like stacking bowls

So the different profiles of my Metzler ME 33 Laser 3.50-19.57H (front) with a Bridgestone Battleax BT45r 130/90-17 m/c (rear) are maybe not a good combo?

My GS1100G specs recommend 3.50V19.4PR and 4.50V17-4PR

I looked in this thread cause I marked up my tyres a couple of days ago to check how close to the edge I get (without pushing it). On the way home today I felt the front slip a smidgen as I was adjusting tighter into a roundabout. I checked the markers and see that the mark is showing a little wear out past the angled tread pattern on the right side (wear has passed across the outer radial groove). I low sided on very old tires about a year and a half ago and while comfortable leaning her over a bit (haven't scrapped pegs though?) I don't want to throw her down the road.

Anyone out there have any experience with tyre selections for quarter ton GS1100's?

[pritch]

And how does your average biker know/find out how to do this,

Basically they don't.

It's quite simple really, tyres are designed by the manufacturers to be used as pairs.

Anything else is unnecessary (and probably uninformed) risk.

Sorry but I do get annoyed seeing silly advice given hereabout which could potentially have serious consequences.

[blossomsowner]

i agree with this....makes sense doesn't it. I currently have a Dunlop front and a michelin pilot power rear.........look to be similar profiles and handles ok but i will still get matching set next time as it has made a big difference in the past for me.

[Drew]

Your front tyre "profile" as you call it, makes a difference to how the bike reacts to whatever input on entry to a corner. The rear will be noticed more on exit.

It's that simple.

So when picking tyres, "matching profiles" is a crock of absolute shit, spouted by people selling tyres. More's the pity that we tend not to ask the obvious question, (what do you mean by that?) for fear of lookin silly. Seems WAY sillier to me to spend money needlessly, but to each thier own.

Choose a rear tyre that does what ya like, and the same with the front. Often a matching pair will be good, if it aint it's irrelevent.

[Drew]

Basically they don't.

It's quite simple really, tyres are designed by the manufacturers to be used as pairs.

Anything else is unnecessary (and probably uninformed) risk.

BULLSHIT, tyres are designed to do certain things better or differently to another tyre. If what you say were true, you would need to buy a different front tyre when using a 190/55/17 rear, than if you were on a 180/55/17.

Sorry but I do get annoyed seeing silly advice given hereabout which could potentially have serious consequences.

So dont fuckin speak then ya bloody hypocrit.

[pritch]

BULLSHIT, tyres are designed to do certain things better or differently to another tyre. If what you say were true, you would need to buy a different front tyre when using a 190/55/17 rear, than if you were on a 180/55/17.
So dont fuckin speak then ya bloody hypocrit.

I don't know where to start so I won't. Life must be very simple for some people. Good luck.

[Drew]

I don't know where to start so I won't. Life must be very simple for some people. Good luck.

I give my opinion from what I have tried, what has worked, and what has been different.

You have given no reason for your bollocks theory, (here or in your PM), but somehow think your silence makes you right.

Get a friggin clue. If I had the money to run whatever tyres I wanted on the race bike, I'd be running a 190/55/17 dunlop slick rear, and 120/70/17 Pirelli slick front. I have experienced them as sets, and the front Pirelli offers better feel mid corner, with the Dunlop being unsurpassed in sheer traction on exit.

That comparison has been made on more than one bike, including 180BHP gixxer thou, and my more nimble 794r. The results were the same.

To sum up, dont start, finish, totally.

[Taz]

I also have never had a problem mismatching tyre brands. Have done it for the last 23 years.

[vtec]

Yeah, I've run lots of mismatches. No worries.

with regard to profiles, as a matched set of tyres wears that changes the profiles anyway, and they are still rideable down to the tread depth indicators.

In my opinion run any combo that you like, just replace them before they get too worn or old.

[BM-GS]

A rule of thumb: stick to front & rear combinations pitched at the same rider/riding, ie: both sport-touring,both sport/track or both commuting tyres. Don't pick a race front and a touring rear, for instance. This is mostly about the profiles of the tyres, and so long as they're similar you'll feel much the same thing from both ends of the bike, wear being equal (and not excessive).

Usually, if you ask for something totally unsuitable the tyre shop will tell you. Or someone here will, but you're not paying for their (our) advice!

On the subject of particular tyres, why do some bikes come with specially-made-for-that-model tyres? Assorted Kawasakis of about 2005 (Z750/1000, ZX-6R) had the BT-019 fronts (or something) made just for them. Are they trying to cover up handling deficiencies in the rest of the bike? What happens when you (gasp) try a different front tyre? Was the 6R so nervous that they needed a stable tyre to stop wobbles? Did that tyre land on other bikes just to get the volumes up & prices down? Will I crash when I get a set of something else (dunno what yet) on the Z750?

I doubt it, as basic bike geometry has been worked out over the years and there really are very few very duff tyres out there, from the reputable makers anyway - the magazine reviews and ambulance-chasing lawyers have seen to that. Of course it does mean that race-rep bikes can come with artificially stable tyres that won't let the bike do what it was designed for...

If really you don't like how it feels, maybe tweak the suspension a step or two up or down, or ask for more free advice...

...the next bit of which will be to change both ends at the same time, so that the shagged rear isn't making the new front feel dangerous as you wrestle the rear off its squared-off bottom and suddenly feel that pointy race front tip the bike onto its fairing.

Take a look in the bike-park and see what a motley lot of rubber folk collect on their bikes.

Price, availability, life & grip are the main things. Profiles are a bit different, but you'd be unlucky to find anything that felt even uncomfortable, let alone scary. Sticky tyres have short lives and feel nervous (usually) as they're pointy, for grip when leaned over and faster turn-in, cos people use them to ride like they're Rossi (in their own minds, often). People driving Gold Wings don't like to have to steer to keep straight along the autobahn, so they get much more gently-rounded tyres. The rest of us like to play in the corners without having to fight to go straight, so we get a compromise.

Hope some of that was helpful. Still awake?

BM-GS no longer...

[Subike]

dont know if this is any help but just my 10c worth
bought a Shenko and put it on the front last year,
Did about 500 slow k's on it.
Had a Bridgstone battleaxe on rear, 3/4 worn.
Went or a ride with some other KB"ers,
found the bike to be very twitchy in the corners, not nice. Wandered in a straght line, and was hard to roll into the corners, had to keep at least one hand on the bars at all times or it had a mind of its own.
Distroyed said rear tyre that night, ( vidio footage somewhere on this site)
Replaced the now bald, rear with a Shenko the following week, same "type" as the front tyre.
So in theory have the said "matching pair" and only a max of 1000k difference in mileage on them.
Yeah I know some of you will say Shenko are average to low quality tyres, but Im an average to slow rider compared to others. So thats of no importance.
Now
The bike does not twitch in the corners anymore, I can roll into and out of the corners a lot smoother than before, in a straight line, it does not wander any more, and entering a 50k zone from 100k, I can sit up, let go of the bars and relax, it stays dead straght.
the only other change I have made was to soften the rear shocks, which were on max.
And price? $138 front, $80 rear (on special)
Happy ? yes
Will I go for a different tyre in the future? Maybee

[Drew]

Had a Bridgstone battleaxe on rear, 3/4 worn.

It wasn't the miss matched tyres causing those things, it was the rooted rear.

The older Yamaha cruisers are real sensitive to out of shape tyres, my old XJ was shocking when I got it due to a "squared off" rear tyre.