Lowering a 125cc

**Rupe** · 24th July 2008, 22:04

Anyone know what I'd have to do to lower a 125cc 2t. And how much I'd be able to reduce the height by?

Thanks

**Reckless** · 24th July 2008, 22:57

Does it have linkage suspension. Whatever bike it is you haven't said?? My Sons kx85 Had some longer link plates made for it when I got it, they looked professionally made out of steel strap.

Other than that I carefully cut some foam off the seat then re glued it on and covered it with gripper material when he grew a bit ,you'd never know either.

and you can drop the fork tubes through the triple clamps a bit, although Danger may comment on the effects of doing this.

you may even be able to find an 18" wheel of another bike that will fit if it has a 19" on. hehe make it a small wheel 125 like my boys small wheel KX85.

Thats my ideas I'm sure there will be more.

**Rupe** · 24th July 2008, 23:12

Originally Posted by Reckless

Does it have linkage suspension. Whatever bike it is you haven't said??

Don't have one yet, the wife wants a bike to play around on, nothing serious. 85 bw is a little to small and a 125 is a bit to big, need an something in the middle. Don't want 4stroke as they are heavier, and there is nothing under $2000. If she likes it she can sort out a more suited/expensive bike after.

**Reckless** · 24th July 2008, 23:26

As much as I am a 2smoke nut. I found the 125 a pain in the arse to teach my wife on and my son found that clutching it all the time in the forest was not much fun either. A 125 2 smoker in my opinion is not a muck around type bike you have to ride them in the slot or they are not so good.

my opinion only
Get a crf150 or 230 or a xr200 or something! Unless you want to put her off so you can ride on your own LOL!!

**Danger** · 24th July 2008, 23:44

I don't recommend any bike be lowered any more than 35mm as ground clearance and handling issues tend to surface. Up to that 35mm is relatively easy to achieve but requires careful calculations and the addition of internal travel limiters to the suspension (these need to be made per application) and usually the replacing or shortening of fork springs. Shortening a spring increases the rate so this needs to be factored in also. Some shocks with internal top out springs need a new seal head and possibly other components. None of this is easily achieved by the home mechanic and should be done by a professional. The length of the travel limiters needs to be calculated to achieve the desired change in height. A 25mm limiter in the fork will not lower the front 25mm, the loss is not at a 1:1 ratio. Same with the rear, the spacer length needs to be factored into the leverage ratio and will differ depending on leverage ratios.
Some bikes benefit from having the rear lowered slightly, for instance the KTM's tend to be a little stink bugged and benefit from a slight lowering in the rear which increases trail to provide better front tire grip, more stability and help the forks to work better.
Some Kawasaki's are also a bit stink bugged and also benefit from having the rear lowered a little which changes the initial rate of progression and is cheaper than the many after market linkage kits made for these bikes.

**cheese** · 25th July 2008, 02:04

Nicky isn't that short. She would be same height as John?? Just throw her on Dangerous daves KDX. I think that a 125 2 smoker would put off any new rider (I know she has done a little bit of riding). Pity I gave the XR100 back to my sister cause she could have had a crack on that. Mind you that bike has a habbit of making the people who ride it fall pregenant. Must have been Jesus's first bike.

**vr4king** · 25th July 2008, 06:56

Well I must be different I have 125 and its my 1st real bike and I love it
However it WAS way to high for me when I first jumped on it actually made it dangerous..............So I played around with the rear shock setting all the "sags" per manual etc etc plus got a nice healthy chunk of foam removed from the seat and recovered($60) felt like i just jumped on a chopper when i got it done but you soon get used to it now its soooo much better and it really hasnt been "lowered" so i didnt compromise the bike ergo's to much

I think a 125 teaches you to ride RIGHT but it can be a very hard lesson sometimes..........Trust Me on this hahahaha

**B0000M** · 25th July 2008, 07:56

i got my mrs a crf-250x not long ago, dropped the spring right down in the rear, cut the seat foam and drpped the triple clamps an inch ish, she can fit now sweet as and shes short as. id also not reccommend a 125 as a learner bike for a female.

**Danger** · 25th July 2008, 08:23

Be careful raising the forks in the triple clamps more than the recommended 10mm. There is a reason that the specs are only 10mm adjustment in the clamps and going beyond this can result in a spectacular crash!!!

If you want to be sure that the tire is not going to bottom on the bottom of the guard (triple clamp area) or the frame or pipe (the tire moves back as it moves up and the forks also bend at the triple clamp area) remove the fork springs and bottom the forks and check for clearance, and then add some to allow for fork flex backwards. Some bikes you can get away with 15mm above the clamps but I would not do it for a rider that is ever likely to get into a bottoming situation. A front tire change or an unexpected event could result in serious injury.
I know you think that your girly will never bottom the forks and that might just be the case, but if she ever did (or someone else got on the bike) it could sorely test your relationship once she gets the wire and plates out of her face!

**chop** · 25th July 2008, 08:46

Try sectioning and rewelding the subframe where it bolts to the main frame. Cut above the weld section and reweld. Rc apartantly does this do his bikes as he is vertically challenged

**scott411** · 25th July 2008, 08:49

what the guys say above is true, watch dropping hte forks to much,

02 and earlier KX125's are easy to lower as you can do it with the pull rods,

another option is a KDX200, still light, easier to use power, a little lower Standard, and can be lowered easily as well, we have a lot of ladies that ride KDX200's

**Danger** · 25th July 2008, 09:19

Cutting and welding the subframe can be done but clearance issues with the airbox rubbing on the shock etc can arise if not careful so only about 5mm can usually be removed. This really only lowers the back of the seat area which is good for getting the leg over and a bit of clearance over whoops if you hang off the back. It really has no effect on the bike at the forward area of the seat where you sit so it doesn't make touching the ground much easier. I have done this on my KTM. I also made the seat sit a little lower on the subframe. Little mm here and there add up and can make your bike easier to ride.
A combination of approaches can result in a better handling and user friendly bike. While I'm not short (5'8'' average ok) I have lowered the rear of my KTM for geometry reasons and I intend to lower the rear of my Suzuki slightly also, as the KTM is easier for me to throw around in the trees. The Suzuki is a quick handler so I think this will be a good move, a lower bike but still razor cornering. On a slower handling bike like the Yamaha it might make things more difficult. Once the rear is lowered slightly the forks can be raised in the triple clamps to maintain the geometry you require and an overall slight lowering for better handling off road.
Lower profile tires can also lower total height.