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Thread: Rebuilding My 125!

  1. #1
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    29th October 2007 - 18:48
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    Rebuilding My 125!

    Hey, Im about to change the piston and rings on my bike, its well over due Just wondering what else i should be checking or replacing while im doing that, Im not to experienced and my manual is only really useful if you already know what you should be doing, haha

    I'm lookn to try squeeze some more power out of the bike, but on a tight budget Its already got a procircuit muffler on it.

    Also, trying not to sound like a poof . I've got a small track at home in the paddock, and after riding hard for about 10mins i get reeealy sore hands and they start cramping up, I was looking at some renthal fat bars, would they possibly help at all?? If you had a problem like that, have u found a cure? or do i just need to get hard?,

    thanks,
    My choice is what I choose to do,
    And if I'm causing no harm, it shouldn't bother you.

  2. #2
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    fat bars are ment to flex more,but in the situation you are talking about i do not think it will help much, what bars do you have now?,

    you should make sure the power valve system is working properly,

    you can get small gains from porting but it should not be attempted unless you know what you are doing, there are few around that would know what to do,

    best performance mod after a muffler on a KX125 is a V Force reed block, but requires a big jetting change and would be hard to justify the cost,

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott411 View Post
    fat bars are ment to flex more,but in the situation you are talking about i do not think it will help much, what bars do you have now?,

    Umm i think they are just the standard ones, reikon brand?

    ohk, yeah ive had a look at jetting and stuff and it all just went straight over my head, haha
    My choice is what I choose to do,
    And if I'm causing no harm, it shouldn't bother you.

  4. #4
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    in 2003 KX125's came with steel bars, they were crap,

    check the rubber handlebar mounts are ok, they take a bit of viabration out,

  5. #5
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    yeah, pretty sure they are steel ones.. damn this could wind up being expensive

    what handle bars would you reccomend scott?
    My choice is what I choose to do,
    And if I'm causing no harm, it shouldn't bother you.

  6. #6
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    i run Tag T2's myself, but any alloy bar will be better than what you are running, basic ones start at $60, renthal or smilar big name std size bars aboiut $99, fat bars up from there,

    watch the piston prices if you are going that way, sometimes kawasaki genuine stuff is cheaper than aftermarket,

  7. #7
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    2nd October 2005 - 00:47
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    Yeah flipping pro x and their no top end bearing trick!! cheaper to go genuine!!

    how many hours your bike got on it?? When should you do teh bottom end???

  8. #8
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    17th July 2006 - 13:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by cheese View Post
    Yeah flipping pro x and their no top end bearing trick!! cheaper to go genuine!!

    how many hours your bike got on it?? When should you do teh bottom end???

    how so? i didnt think any piston kit came with a bearing

    how much is a genuine one? i obviously got quoted a ridiculous over inflated price by my friendly local dealer

  9. #9
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    i genuine kawasaki KX125 piston kit, incl l/e bearing is $185 RRP,

    and most piston kits do not incl a l/e bearing, wiseco, vertix and pro x are all teh same in that respect,

  10. #10
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    2nd October 2005 - 00:47
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    Weird all kits I've got in teh past have always come with the bearing.

    Um I think that Botany and Wild west gave me a good price that was probably cheaper than the Pro x one I got. I think near on the $200 mark?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by cheese View Post
    Weird all kits I've got in teh past have always come with the bearing.

    Um I think that Botany and Wild west gave me a good price that was probably cheaper than the Pro x one I got. I think near on the $200 mark?
    the kind folk at gisborne honda told me that wiesco was going to be $340 without bearing, and genuine was more and not available at that time, hence why i bought elsewhere

  12. #12
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    most decent dealers will supply them with a kit, and quote it like that to,

    you jsut need a half decent parts guy to know to order it seperatly

  13. #13
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    there seems to be a pretty good one at mr motorcycles, nothing ive ordered has been cocked up yet!

  14. #14
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    Quote Originally Posted by B0000M View Post
    the kind folk at gisborne honda told me that wiesco was going to be $340 without bearing, and genuine was more and not available at that time, hence why i bought elsewhere
    i can see why you get sent from here, thats just nuts,

  15. #15
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    28th November 2007 - 13:41
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    I just ran OEM pistons in my 2002 CR125 or Pro x both worked sweet. I wouldnt run a wiesco i have herd bad things from people that have tried to use them even from some honda dealers that wont touch them. Should cost no more then $200 for every seal, gaskit, bearing, piston and rings to rebuild a top end.

    Reed block makes a good differance but if you are wanting more power you will find its cheaper to go to the next level of bike (KX250) then speending hundreds on making your 125 screem. Ive been down that road, it had more power then any other 125 i had ridden and the guy that brought it sold his 06 CRF250 to buy my 02 CR125 but i never got much more for it when it did sell.

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