Brake trouble

[fatzx10r]

Also, it's hard to tell if it's the caliper or not... but my right front disk has a bit of fluid on it. No fluid is coming from the hose as far as i can see. Now i'm not sure if it is because my right fork seal is leaking oil too, and might be dripping down to the brakes... it's damn hard to see though.

Just incase... and until i get round to inspecting the front brakes. what's usually the culprit for leaking caliper? Is it a blown piston seal?

sound's like it's your fork seal that's leaking onto your disc. get that sorted asap

[racefactory]

yeah i am getting it sorted mate.

Please everyone don't think im riding this bike around like this... i'm not. its got no rego and its not going anywhere.

[awayatc]

Metal backing plate not critical.....you may be pleasantly surprised by dealers price....

Oil leak front.....fork seal first,
then brake itself can do with good clean and inspection.....
Amazing what you can see and find by taking it apart.
you are supposed to change brakefluid every 2 years or so anyway.....after that keep eye on level.

Your bike, your life....
Risked life and limbs plenty of times, still do....
Seen so many "experts" fuck up that I mainly rely on myself....Nothing wrong with that

[Subike]

yeah i am getting it sorted mate.

Please everyone don't think im riding this bike around like this... i'm not. its got no rego and its not going anywhere.

Hey bud, good on ya.
you obviousley are taking your time about this, doing research, looking at the options with the final thing being, ""If I cant do it, I'll get a pro to"" before riding the bike and having an incident.
There are web sites out there that will tell you how,
There are sites that will show you expanded pic of what you are doing,
There are sites that will list and sell the parts you need, they also have search tools that tell you what other bikes run the same parts.
I'm glad to see you asking before you start, thats good.

And the springs are the anti squeel springs I take it. They sit in behind or above the pads to stop them make that orrid screech noise when riding.

The oil on you front disc will be from your leaking fork seal. If it was from your brake caliper and you have been using the bike for a while before doing this repair, you would have run out of brake pressure due to all the fluid leaking out. Thats my call on that one.

When you clean all your brake parts, use a good brake clean product, I have seen many a seal melted from people cleaning their brake parts in petrol. Its a solvent to a lot of rubber. Check your hoses as well when doing this, an item often overlooked when brakes get spongy or weak. They should be replace every 20 - 30k imo or every 4th pad change. Brakes on a road bike are too important to take short cuts with.


Above all, enjoy yourself learning about you ride, and if You gat a bit tichy while doing it. STOP have a BEER and go watch TV for an hour. You break less things that way

[Jerry74]

Use heaps of CRC Brakeleen, it evaporates, takes all the muck off with a wipe.

Good stuff

[racefactory]

excellent. got everything i need now.

yeah i'd like to think i'm on the right track, looking at my options but trying to be sensible about it. I'm a 19 year old student and got this VFR for 2700- needed new fork seals $25 (bought fork oil and seals and getting a shop to fit it for $60), rear tyre $75 (bought a good second hand tyre) and it also needs the rear brake switch to activate plus this brake problem so hopefully i can get her going for $3000. the engine runs nuts and seems in great condition, no valve noises, no flat spots, no smoke, excellent power, was not burning oil by the looks of it. i think it'd turn out a good deal if i can pull it off.

going to rip into it now. i'll keep this thread up to date.

thanks for all pointers.

[lostinflyz]

just had a reminder that my front calipers leaked for ages after i dismantled them and cleaned and did the front seals. If its from the caliper it pools at the bottom of the caliper. The wee star key nut things need to be Farking tight to get them to seal up. But i would still back it being your fork seals leaving shit on your discs.

[racefactory]

oh ok thanks dude.

Ok the pistons are almost seized I think.. i just can not get the piston back into the cylinder with my hands and it should only require thumb strength. I guess the seals are gone... they don't look too good, top one is a bit scuffed up. need new seals.

[racefactory]

god damn it- this is not looking good.

i just managed to insert the piston again... wedged a spanner in there so it wouldnt come out, filled the reservoir with fluid, and the level just sits there... its not going down into the system... i dont get that?

I try pumping the pedal but there is no pressure... the level doesnt go down. Yes i have the lid on...

ahh, would cycle spot honda on barrys point road be a good place to get this done? anyone know how much im looking at?

[MSTRS:Me]

god damn it- this is not looking good.

i just managed to insert the piston again... wedged a spanner in there so it wouldnt come out, filled the reservoir with fluid, and the level just sits there... its not going down into the system... i dont get that?

I try pumping the pedal but there is no pressure... the level doesnt go down. Yes i have the lid on...

ahh, would cycle spot honda on barrys point road be a good place to get this done? anyone know how much im looking at?

There won't be...cause the system is full of air, and air compresses very easily. This is what bleeding is for - to get rid of the air. It's a long job when you've had it all apart.
Make sure all connections are tight. Fill the reservoir, leaving the top off. Open the bleed nipple on the caliper. Pull in the brake lever and hold. Close the nipple. Release the brake. Repeat ad nauseum...ensuring that you keep the reservoir full. Wipe up any spills on your paintwork immediately.
In your case, since the caliper is still in an unfit state, it would be better to use compressed air to pop the pistons out. Must be done VERY carefully.
Take the caliper to a shop (Honda would be good). Get them to remove the pistons and do the refurbishment/reassembly work. You refit to your bike and follow the above bleed instructions.

[Subike]

A little helpfull thing when bleeding your brakes.
Get a small glass /plastic bottle (300cc)
find a length of plastic hose that fits snugly over the top of your bleed nipple.
Have a few cc's of fluid in the bottom of the bottle, immerse the hose in that fluid so it cannot suck air. Fill your master cylinder with fluid and open the nipple. You will only have to tighten the bleed nipple at the end of this procedure.
Slowly pump the master cylinder, with the cap off.
This will pump the air out of the system , down the hose, into the bottle, and release it. It will stop air returning up the hose line when you release the lever, because it is immersed in the fluid.
Continue to do this untill you no longer see air bubbles comming out of the hose. Tighten the bleed nipple THEN remove the hose.
Watch the master cylinder resivour while doing this and dont let it get under half.
This is the easy way to bleed your brake by yourself without spillage. And it works!

[racefactory]

you guys have been most helpful. Yes i think i should just take the caliper to to a shop and get them to fit the seals re assemble it. At least i tried...

It cant be that much can it?

If anyone can reccommend me a shop in particular, that'd be great. Right now i can only think of honda in takapuna.

[racefactory]

took it to honda shop... it's fucked. not only would it need seals but the pistons are fucked themselves.

Got another caliper on the way now .

To close things off i'll just say that all in all i'm pleased i even looked into this... I'm sure it could have easilly been overlooked and then i possibly could have had a proper seizure while riding. Just thinking about it, i could have braked, brakes wouldnt release/lock rear wheel and someone could have taken me out from behind... game over.

[nico]

hey fella yah man best thing i did was get a service manual they are amazing i ant a mechanic but do have some knowlage on machanes and basic princales but read the manual a few times look at the past read again give it a go then go to a shop if needed, im sorta in the same boat $$chanalged so all my maientance is done bu myself unless i have to but in saying that some things cant be screwed with and a pro should do good luck with the rest of the bike those vfr400 are mint i regret selling my lil one

[nico]

A little helpfull thing when bleeding your brakes.
Get a small glass /plastic bottle (300cc)
find a length of plastic hose that fits snugly over the top of your bleed nipple.
Have a few cc's of fluid in the bottom of the bottle, immerse the hose in that fluid so it cannot suck air. Fill your master cylinder with fluid and open the nipple. You will only have to tighten the bleed nipple at the end of this procedure.
Slowly pump the master cylinder, with the cap off.
This will pump the air out of the system , down the hose, into the bottle, and release it. It will stop air returning up the hose line when you release the lever, because it is immersed in the fluid.
Continue to do this untill you no longer see air bubbles comming out of the hose. Tighten the bleed nipple THEN remove the hose.
Watch the master cylinder resivour while doing this and dont let it get under half.
This is the easy way to bleed your brake by yourself without spillage. And it works!

i agree this is how the old man told me to do it and after going to repco seeing the kits they sell for 30 odd bucks it's exactly the same a $2 clear hose from mita 10 sumruged in a brace fluid bottle and do as above works absulty mint every time no need for expesve kits