Puncture repairs

[Crisis management]

Never heard that before. The 640A and the EXC are neutral, no better or worse than any of the others I've done. Ditto the 9x0 I helped with, I didn't notice any unusual grief.

Hopefully your right ( I must admit you usually are...). I have no idea where I got that titbit from but "somewhere" I picked up the idea they had a reputation for being hard to break the bead on.
I will find out when I fit the TKC's at the end of summer!

[NordieBoy]

The DR rear has the "bead" reputation.

[Bass]

The DR rear has the "bead" reputation.

Groan

[tri boy]

Telescoping hospital crutches work well as a emergency prop once they are kicked out from under a 70 years old hip replacement paitent, and then chopped to size. (the crutch, not the paitent), mind you, I have a problem with 70-80 yr old wrinkles getting hip op's off my tax any way.
(Bastards will be dead before it heals, rant, rant rant............

[Frodo]

I carry this 10 x 40 x 365mm wooden slat around with me - fits under paddock stand lugs. Works well on the back wheel and is stable - probably more stable than the KLR idea using the foot peg. Haven't got a solution for the front, but am motivated to try something based on a walking cane..

There was an article in Two Wheels a couple of months back about a stainless steel turnbuckle with foot. Looked neat, but my slat works for me.

I have a Kathmandu bicycle pump that fits under the bike seat. Fine for adjusting tyre pressure (e.g. going from gravel to seal) and would work (slowly) to fix a flat.

Cheers

[Oscar]

Following our experiences in Oz and observations here, I have decided to properly equip myself for roadside puncture repair. The kit will include: -

1. Spare tubes
2. Vulcanising solvent
3. Patches
4. Tyre levers
5. Selected hand tools

I will also throw in some emery paper and my Slime air compressor

I seek some assistance however on supporting the bike with one wheel off the ground (no centre stand on a DR). In Oz Jamie discovered that the tomahawk stuffed under the rear linkage jacked the back up nicely but we never devised a means to hold the front up (and never needed it on that trip thankfully).

Has anyone out there come up with a small, portable, lightweight gadget that can be used to support either end of the bike for this purpose?

Obviously we have all seen logs, fenceposts, mounds and other bits of the scenery used, but I'm looking for something that I can toss in the bag and take with me.

I'll go with bits of the scenery or simply turning the gas off and going flat side down.

A small container of dishwashing liquid is always a good idea.

[ducatijim]

I'll go with bits of the scenery or simply turning the gas off and going flat side down.

.

Ah yes Oscar, the old KISS principle, I'm with you!

[JATZ]

I carry this 10 x 40 x 365mm wooden slat around with me - fits under paddock stand lugs. Works well on the back wheel and is stable - probably more stable than the KLR idea using the foot peg. Haven't got a solution for the front, but am motivated to try something based on a walking cane..

There was an article in Two Wheels a couple of months back about a stainless steel turnbuckle with foot. Looked neat, but my slat works for me.

I have a Kathmandu bicycle pump that fits under the bike seat. Fine for adjusting tyre pressure (e.g. going from gravel to seal) and would work (slowly) to fix a flat.

Cheers

That looks mine kind of stand, i.e. dirt cheap.
BTW how do you find the EO-8's, just swaped the Kenda trailmaster on the rear of the DR for one of them, got a front to go on tommorow.
Swaped tyres in about 1/2 hour start to finish,
Pirelli on the front was dead easy too,when I installed it. I could get it most of the way on by hand.
TKC 80's the only tire I've had any trouble with,just about ruined a tube getting it on.

[Frodo]

BTW how do you find the EO-8's, just swaped the Kenda trailmaster on the rear of the DR for one of them, got a front to go on tommorow.

Most of my riding is currently commuting on SH1 into Wellington, in heavy traffic often in rain and wind. So I wanted a road-oriented tyre. They're good for that purpose, although not quite as confident in the wet as Anakees I put on my previous bike. They are slightly more aggressive (especially the front) so should be better in gravel. I've been in gravel twice with them and found them more skittery than the Anakees, but I need to play around with pressures (the Anakees were much better in gravel in the low 20s psi). I've heard that reversing the front tyre helps.

I expect wear to be good.

E-08s are about half the price of Anakees and as I do high miles, price talked.

Note that there have been problems with tread blocks cracking on rear E-08s, so I'll keep an eye on mine.

Cheers

[cobber]

Yep the DR rear is a bit of a bitch and I'm waiting to see what the desert rear on the XTZ will be like before attempting to make a bead breaker. Side stand of another bike (put the bike onto the side stand with the stand foot on the other bikes tyre) apparently works but never had the opportunity to try it.

Cheers R

The rear of the dr is right mongrel to break the bead on I am up to tyre change number 18 on the rear of my dr and have always had to use the bead breaker on the tyre machine at work to get it. Once i managed it with a length of 4x2 under a fence but it invovled a bit of swearing, looking forward to the easy, side of the road answers coming in here. this is the most difficult rim I have come across in 40yrs of riding

[NordieBoy]

Use soap not glue.
Simple.

I've never had a problem with mine.

I've never actually changed my tyres though but it can't be any harder than on the mountain bike can it?

[Crisis management]

I've only changed three or four tyres on a DR rear but apart from the Pirrelli MT21 have not had a problem breaking the bead.
The last puncture repair on the roadside took 30 minutes, admitedly there were two of us doing the job.

I use two tyre levers, no lube and some gentlemanly swearing, seems to work quite well.

[Bass]

I'll go with bits of the scenery or simply turning the gas off and going flat side down.

I would too, except for the big tank that I have fitted. As is typical with the safari tanks on a DR, there is a bit of a problem getting the last 5 (or so) liters out because of the relative heights of the tank and the carb. We solved this by putting a non-return valve on the breather so that we can simply blow into the tank and slightly pressurise it when it gets low.
However, for some reason, the blasted valve refuses to seal when the bike is on its side and it pisses fuel everywhere.

A small container of dishwashing liquid is always a good idea.

Often wondered about this. Thanks

[NordieBoy]

I use two tyre levers, no lube and some gentlemanly swearing, seems to work quite well.

Kinky.

So is it the lack of lube or the swearing that heats the bead up and makes it easier to get on?

[xwhatsit]

Is there a particular reason adv bikes don't have centre stands? I would've thought if there was an essential application, this would be it. Raise rear just with the stand normally, or put something heavy on the back seat and take the front wheel off. I can't stand not having a centre stand on a roadbike, but if I had to do tyre changes in the middle of nowhere...?

Is it just because the ground clearance is so high?