RF900 Diagnostic - Electrical

**Colapop** · 11th January 2009, 16:17

The RF died. I pulled up at the gas station, filled the tank, paid and turned the key. No dash lights, no horn, no starter. Dammit!! So I go throught the usual checks - On/Off switch - On, fuses - all ok. Plugs (clutch switch, kick stand) all connected. Main 30A fuse - ok. There is plenty of juice in the battery. I pretty much checked everything I could checj at the gas station without stripping the bike apart on the forecourt. Extremely grateful for flatmate (AJTurbo) coming to pick me and dead bike up in the van.
So now, I've stripped the fairings and looked at what I can look at. I can't see any broken wires or unplugged plugs (that's what I suspect it is.) It has been suggested to me that it's the alternator (cush drive) which is a well known RF problem While I'm not discounting this advice or writing it off, I'm trying to ascertain whether it is another issue before I break the bike down into smaller parts.

So my question is - how do I diagnose the problem? I have a wiring diagram (workshop manual) but am not very good at reading those. I would guess that I'll need a meter to check the current across certain parts of the electrical system? I really don't like electrics - probably something to do with therapy I had when I was younger...

**tri boy** · 11th January 2009, 16:30

yep, get a meter mate.
If your main fuse has 12v on both sides, uncouple your ignition switch block, and check for 12v at the plug. (think it is a read wire that feeds voltage to the switch).
If you have no volts, or low volts, then you have afault between the main fuse and switch. (damaged wire etc).
If you have 12v, plug the coupling back together, turn on the key, and check for voltage coming out of the switch at the same coupling. (think it's got a couple of wires live, orange, grey etc)
If no voltage is coming out of the switch, then you have a fault there.

that will keep you busy for a while, after that, you have dozens of little checks to follow using your manual.

Don't sulk on it. Your a big boy. Get stuck in.

All this assumes the battery is ok.
This is a real basic discription of where to start, as I havn't got a RF manual on my desk in front of me. Only bourbon, and a sandwich.

**Paul in NZ** · 11th January 2009, 16:39

Argh!

Total electrical failure at rest tends to indicate the source! Check the battery and leads PLUS earth connections....

Sorry - you might just need a meter. Sing out if you wanna borrow one but at $19 for one at tricky dickies they are almost a no brainer...

**ajturbo** · 11th January 2009, 16:56

thanks guys.. was thinking along the same lines....
i have a meter....
so will have to get down there and use it.... after i do someone's friging dishes..AGAIN

**awayatc** · 11th January 2009, 17:00

Likely to be a big amp fuse near battery.....follow the wires....

**FROSTY:Me** · 11th January 2009, 17:49

Id suggest use the old indicator as a voltage indicator trick.
See if theres life in the battery. then if there is then trace down the main earth and power lines

**Mully** · 12th January 2009, 08:46

Col, can you crash start the bike?

**Colapop** · 12th January 2009, 09:34

No hope crash starting it. There is no life in there at all!

I do the dishes!! Jeez!! Ya cook, ya clean, ya do washing... That reminds me - AJ, would you be a dear and make the bed please?

**ManDownUnder** · 12th January 2009, 09:51

My RF did this to me twice during her life - both times it was the battery shitting itself (while sitting in the shed...!).

Suggest that as a first port of call.

**yod** · 12th January 2009, 09:57

Originally Posted by *Col*

It has been suggested to me that it's the alternator (cush drive) which is a well known RF problem While I'm not discounting this advice or writing it off, I'm trying to ascertain whether it is another issue before I break the bike down into smaller parts.

doesn't sound like it given that it seems pretty instantaneous

this happened to mine and it manifests in the same way as a shagged generator; hence, your battery would have gradually lost charge and you would have probably noticed your lights/dash lights getting dimmer and dimmer until there wouldn't have been enough charge to start her up

if your battery still has plenty of charge then this won't be the problem

I took it all apart myself and took the drive unit to PTs to supply and have the new drive end pressed on, around $450 for parts and labour (I got it cheaper due to a cock-up, but that's a whole other story)

sing out if you want any more info - i took a few pics while she was in bits so they could be helpful

**Colapop** · 12th January 2009, 10:18

It seems to me (having no knowledge at all) that it's a connection thing. There had been no loss or gradual dimming of the lights etc. Just dead straight away. Lots of juice in the battery. I'll have a session with the meter tonight and see what turns up...

**MSTRS:Me** · 12th January 2009, 10:41

Check the current(s) through the switch block on the right handle bar. A friend of ours in Napier has an RF with intermittent problems caused by corrosion in that block. The one with the On/Off - Starter button.

**Squiggles** · 12th January 2009, 10:47

ignition barrel?

**Sully60** · 12th January 2009, 10:51

Originally Posted by *Col*

It seems to me (having no knowledge at all) that it's a connection thing. There had been no loss or gradual dimming of the lights etc. Just dead straight away. Lots of juice in the battery. I'll have a session with the meter tonight and see what turns up...

MY suggestion after spending hours working on Number One's bike to get the headlights to work, is check every wiring connector block. Assuming like you said the battery is ok and that this appeared to happen instantly my first port of call would be to get some CRC lectra-Kleen or 2.26 and go through and clean all of these.
The ones on #1's bike looked fine and snapped together postively, all the wires into them were in good condition and each of the terminals were properly located everything had continuity on the meter but I'd say there was just enough dry corrosion to stop current flow.
They are from the same era and manufacturer I don't think it's too much of a leap that it could be the same problem.