ZXR400 clutch question

[Goblin]

Trying to get the racer back together and Im having some problems with the clutch.

Problem is...without the cover on the clutch, the pusher has about 15mm of play. Once the cover is on, the release lever has excessive play. When I adjust the cable the lever is stiff and clutch dosent release. Should there be the play in the pusher and why cant I get it to work? Anybody offer any advice?

Thanks

[Warr]

Trying to get the racer back together and Im having some problems with the clutch.

Problem is...without the cover on the clutch, the pusher has about 15mm of play. Once the cover is on, the release lever has excessive play. When I adjust the cable the lever is stiff and clutch dosent release. Should there be the play in the pusher and why cant I get it to work? Anybody offer any advice?

Thanks

Can you point us in the direction of a manual ???
Does the lever on the engine appear to turning in the correct quadrant??
Does it attach on a splined shaft, have you had it apart and its on the wrong spline?
Or is the actuation lever not pushing one the push rod correctly.
Sometimes there is a single ball bearing making up part of the push rod. Is it there?

[Goblin]

Can you point us in the direction of a manual ???
Does the lever on the engine appear to turning in the correct quadrant??
Does it attach on a splined shaft, have you had it apart and its on the wrong spline?
Or is the actuation lever not pushing one the push rod correctly.
Sometimes there is a single ball bearing making up part of the push rod. Is it there?

I have a photocopied manual so pics aren't too clear.

yes.

No, no spline. Its one piece.

The action of the lever is a pull rather than a push. It appears to be working, but because of the play in the rod mechanism, there isn't enough effort to operate the clutch.

There's no ball bearing in the diagram.


Tis hard to describe being blonde n all.

[Warr]

I have a photocopied manual so pics aren't too clear.

yes.

No, no spline. Its one piece.

The action of the lever is a pull rather than a push. It appears to be working, but because of the play in the rod mechanism, there isn't enough effort to operate the clutch.

There's no ball bearing in the diagram.


Tis hard to describe being blonde n all.

Dont know blonde may help
I downloaded a manual from somewhere.
Take back most of what I said!! I was referring to the Honda that pushes through from the left side of the motor.
The ZXR400 all happens on the righthand clutch case.
The cable pulls on a lever that turns a shaft that pulls the inner part of the clutch outwards against the springs releasing pressure off the plates.
Very simple... sort of.
Tho it is important that the turning shaft engages with the center pulling shaft bit!! There is a flat on the turning shaft that engages and pulls the clutch center out. Sounds like there is something not aligned there or engaging correctly.

[Goblin]

Tho it is important that the turning shaft engages with the center pulling shaft bit!! There is a flat on the turning shaft that engages and pulls the clutch center out. Sounds like there is something not aligned there or engaging correctly.

Correct. The shaft doesnt seem to be pulling...there's no pressure there because of the 15mm of play in the centre shaft. The cable is at maximum adjustment both ends so could it be as simple as a flogged cable?

[Warr]

Correct. The shaft doesnt seem to be pulling...there's no pressure there because of the 15mm of play in the centre shaft. The cable is at maximum adjustment both ends so could it be as simple as a flogged cable?

Where the cable pulls on the lever the angle should be ~90 degrees.
A little less when clutch is 'un-pulled' ! and a little over when the clutch is pulled
That is what it would have been designed to do. A stretched cable should be able to be adjusted with the cable adjusters. If you have approx the correct angles where the cable is pulling there must be something wrong inside...

[Goblin]

...there must be something wrong inside...

Oh darn! Thats what I been thinkin too. Have had it apart but not the big bolt in the middle as I dont have the "special" tool to stop the the thing turning. Must be something in there thats wrong.

Will pull it all apart again tomorrow and try to improvise with anything I can find in the shed. Thanks for replying.

[Warr]

Oh darn! Thats what I been thinkin too. Have had it apart but not the big bolt in the middle as I dont have the "special" tool to stop the the thing turning. Must be something in there thats wrong.

Will pull it all apart again tomorrow and try to improvise with anything I can find in the shed. Thanks for replying.

I would think that its unlikely you need to dismantle the clutch basket (big nut)
It will be to do with the cover mechanism / or the pull rod.
When you take the cover off check that everything is where the manual says it should be.

[Max Preload]

I would think that its unlikely you need to dismantle the clutch basket (big nut)

Especially since it hasn't been apart.

Assuming you've adjusted the cable up...

The cover is drawn against the springs by the top hat so there will be a thrust needle roller bearing between the cover and the top hat (the piece the fork connects to). If that needle roller or it's race is missing the assembly will be too long and the fork will be at it's limit before that top hat engages the clutch cover fully.

Either that or the fork isn't actually engaging the groove in the top hat (unlikely).

Is it similar to this? (92046 is the needle roller thrust bearing, 92025 the race - looks like a washer).

[sharky]

Manual at www.zxrworld.com

[Warr]

Manual at www.zxrworld.com

Things may have changed since you were last there

travel insurance weather weekend break at zxrworld.com

[Goblin]

Especially since it hasn't been apart.

Assuming you've adjusted the cable up...

The cover is drawn against the springs by the top hat so there will be a thrust needle roller bearing between the cover and the top hat (the piece the fork connects to). If that needle roller or it's race is missing the assembly will be too long and the fork will be at it's limit before that top hat engages the clutch cover.

Either that or the fork isn't actually engaging the groove in the top hat.

Is it similar to this? (92046 is the needle roller thrust bearing, 92025 the race - looks like a washer).

This makes sense as I think the needle roller and race might be missing. Off now to pull it apart agin...let you know tonight.

at sharky's link.

[Max Preload]

This makes sense as I think the needle roller and race might be missing. Off now to pull it apart agin...let you know tonight.

If so, certainly don't start it. You'll end up with clutch cover filings in your oil.

Here's a link to the H model and L model supplement.

[T.W.R]

Just sent a reply to your PM

pretty sure the problem wont be from the thrust bearing either though as they're only thin wee buggers no where near the amount of play your talking about

[Max Preload]

Just sent a reply to your PM

pretty sure the problem wont be from the thrust bearing either though as they're only thin wee buggers no where near the amount of play your talking about

Why not post it here?

Try leaving one out then you'll see how insignificant they are at the lever. Either way, something is wrong with either the plate assembly, cover alignment or top hat that is making assembled length to the groove on the top hat when under tension, greater than it should be.