RG150 won't rev up

[quallman1234]

Its definetely the powervalves.

There is a way to test em. I'll pm you the manual link. I'll put a 5er that the centres are flogged out.

Only problem with that frosty is that there's a chance they could meet the piston.

Cheers
Kyle

[MDR2]

I had a similar problem only the other month, what it eventually turned out to be was the grub screw that locks the bar and piece of metal with the u shaped groove in it had unwound itself and fallen out. meaning the valves were just sitting in the shut position. easy fix but the piston did get a light shave from the valves.

[quallman1234]

I had a similar problem only the other month, what it eventually turned out to be was the grub screw that locks the bar and piece of metal with the u shaped groove in it had unwound itself and fallen out. meaning the valves were just sitting in the shut position. easy fix but the piston did get a light shave from the valves.

Ive had that problem as well, but they tend to open the valves up a little due to the grit on the actuator rod.

[koba]

thanks guys. I think Im actually happy it wont pull past 11k . He's NEVER ridden a road type bike so thattll keep him from being an eejut
That said the last owner only used the bike as a commutter so I wouldnt be suprised if it aint real gummed up in there

I thought I had sent a reply PM to riffer about this but I had stuffed up and not sent it.
I would be wary about running it with a dodgy battery and suspect powervalves, its not alot of money and effort to get a new battery and clean out the powervalves. Both are really Important!
I wouldn't worry about the speed of it, I would worry about potential of it destrying itsself.
A bike can get away with alot more as a commuter and if it is in a substandard condition and then taken out on the track to get the hiding of its life you may be in for tears. a bit of care and attention can save alot of stress and money.
Things I would be sure to check before you take it out are that the carb and airbox are firmly secure, they can rattle loose and pull the carb off causing a seizure.
Powervalves of course, and adjustment too; the electronic box can burn out if its trying to pull unadjusted cables.
Plug cap, shit stock ones crap out easy.
I run a BR8ES.
and MAKE SURE IT IS REALLY WARMED UP BEFORE IT EVEN GETS OFF THE DUMMY GRID!!!!

[koba]

I had a similar problem only the other month, what it eventually turned out to be was the grub screw that locks the bar and piece of metal with the u shaped groove in it had unwound itself and fallen out. meaning the valves were just sitting in the shut position. easy fix but the piston did get a light shave from the valves.

Yep, the grub screw that the manual has underlined bold capitals saying USE SUZUKI SUPERBOND or wahtever they call loctite!
The sound of a piston humping powervalves is sickening!

[MDR2]

Yep, the grub screw that the manual has underlined bold capitals saying USE SUZUKI SUPERBOND or wahtever they call loctite!
The sound of a piston humping powervalves is sickening!

yeahhhhh and you don't have to be shy using it either

[MDR2]

Powervalves of course, and adjustment too; the electronic box can burn out if its trying to pull unadjusted cables.

and MAKE SURE IT IS REALLY WARMED UP BEFORE IT EVEN GETS OFF THE DUMMY GRID!!!!

Adjustment... right... I have a question, when setting up my valves I lined up the line with the notch with the cable from the battery grounded... sweet

How do I know that over the years there's not been any wear and that now by lining up those two markers im not purposefully putting the valve in danger of touching the piston? I guess what im wanting to know is, which way would i set the line on the pulley so that the valves were backed off from the piston a fraction when closed ie town riding/idling


secondly... tough bike to get warmed up eh? Id usually let the bike run 4-5 mins before the 20 minute motorway ride i used to do. Hardly had the gauge hitting quater way. I've blanked off maybe a 3rd of the radiator with a piece of cardboard to aid things. Any tips?

[koba]

Adjustment... right... I have a question, when setting up my valves I lined up the line with the notch with the cable from the battery grounded... sweet

How do I know that over the years there's not been any wear and that now by lining up those two markers im not purposefully putting the valve in danger of touching the piston? I guess what im wanting to know is, which way would i set the line on the pulley so that the valves were backed off from the piston a fraction when closed ie town riding/idling

If the tension is set correctly it shouldn't be able to force the valves down into the piston, they naturally sit higher than that so it is only incorrect cable adjustment that will push them down lower, which is why it important to check the cable frequently.
I rebuilt the pulley bit of mine to eliminate play where the spring rubs away the aluminium but I dont really think the gain was worth all the effort.
Mine has done over 50,000 km.

secondly... tough bike to get warmed up eh? Id usually let the bike run 4-5 mins before the 20 minute motorway ride i used to do. Hardly had the gauge hitting quater way. I've blanked off maybe a 3rd of the radiator with a piece of cardboard to aid things. Any tips?

Nope, you are on the money with that.
The usless guage is normal, mine hardly moves unless there is a problem.
If you are really worried you could buy a decent digital themometer and whack that on it but the crappy stock one is good enough to let you know if its about to have a meltdown.

[FROSTY:Me]

WELL GUYS-- the poor lil thing got thrashed all day by william.
he complained he could "only" get to 100km/h down the straights.
Im gutted --not

[MDR2]

My valves have noticably started rattling when im off the gas and at idle So look's like i'll be opening her up again this weekend... it never gets old.

[Str8 Jacket]

it never gets old.

Trust me. It does!! But ya still love em. Something about addiction or something!

[MDR2]

hehe, you didn't pick up on the internet sarcasims

If I could afford a 4 cyl I would sell the RG and move that way.

[FruitLooPs]

IMO the stock temp gauge on it isn't worth jack, and yes they do take ages to warm up even more so with a decent coolant in it. Stick a digital temp probe on the powervalve box.

I remember the dreaded powervalve rattling three different times on my RG and the associated $$$ that always came with it.

In the end Pete J turned me some custom lapped powervalves since the barrel was old and the p/valve ports worn to the point that new valves had just enough play to rattle until they snapped at the stems after a few months..

Custom ones have done a year no worries so far and a track day last sunday. Bit harder to ride since the mid range rpms are lower until it opens (single stage not 3 stage bladed) but the speedo still read 165k/hr down the front straight at Ruapuna so top ends all good.

Not bad for 63,500km on the bike Unlike my NSR250 which seized at the same trackday on its first outing in my possession *sigh* 2-strokes eh

[Macros]

I currently have this problem now...

Which parts need tig welding? Does anyone have any pictures?

Ive already given the "power valve box" a good clean. No screws loose =\

[FROSTY:Me]

I dunno--It takes stuff all to haul the whole shooting match off and send it to pete--thats what Ive done