How do you get this bloody wheel out! CR125

[JeremyW]

I am currently having a wondeful time trying to remove the rear wheel of my rather old 88' CR125R. The right side bolt will come off but the left side will not buge and inch. I think this is sposed to turn but I dont want to go super-powerbar turning it if its not supposed to be turned.

It seems to be an easy removal but is proving difficult! And I desperately need new tyres as my old road tyres are a bit of a handful out at Ardmore...

I have attached some pics, if you have one of these or know how it is done PLEASE let me know.

Cheers

[WRT]

Mine's an 01 CR250, but it's merely a case of removing the nut, then tapping the bolt through. The bolt doesnt need to be unscrewed, just knocked out. Not sure if it would be the same for your bike, but I would assume so. If you like I can take a pic tonight or scan in the relevant pages from the manual?

[JeremyW]

Mine's an 01 CR250, but it's merely a case of removing the nut, then tapping the bolt through. The bolt doesnt need to be unscrewed, just knocked out. Not sure if it would be the same for your bike, but I would assume so. If you like I can take a pic tonight or scan in the relevant pages from the manual?

Yea that would be sweet dude. Cheers

[Brian d marge]

Stop....... They do just knock out , BUT they seize in, the cheapest way is to use a penitrating oil ( the problem with heat here is that the bearings try and come out as well, if yoou try and heat the bearings the bearing seal can melt)

what I did with mine was drop the swing arm out block it up, so that the hub was suported then pressed it out ,,It took a fare bit of force

If you damage the thread , the nut is softer and is the same as an XR 250

I have had one where even with heat , and peni oil ,,,we still resorted to a frigen big sledge ammer ( and a big one at that )

The swingarm assembly isnt hard to drop out ....

Stephen

Ps if thats siezed then have a look at the rest of the bearings

[JeremyW]

Stop....... They do just knock out , BUT they seize in, the cheapest way is to use a penitrating oil ( the problem with heat here is that the bearings try and come out as well, if yoou try and heat the bearings the bearing seal can melt)

what I did with mine was drop the swing arm out block it up, so that the hub was suported then pressed it out ,,It took a fare bit of force

If you damage the thread , the nut is softer and is the same as an XR 250

I have had one where even with heat , and peni oil ,,,we still resorted to a frigen big sledge ammer ( and a big one at that )

The swingarm assembly isnt hard to drop out ....

Stephen

Ps if thats siezed then have a look at the rest of the bearings

Cheers Stephen, I will go sort out a super-extendo-power bar and loads of peni oil.

[Crisis management]

Cheers Stephen, I will go sort out a super-extendo-power bar and loads of peni oil.

Not neccessarily the best method.

Better to soak in penetrating oil for 12 hours (liberal doses of) and either use a press as our brain damaged friend suggests or a sharp whack with a hammer. Applying torque only risks shearing the head off, a shock application (hammer) is more likely to break the frozen parts free. Fit the nut back on to the bolt end and hit the nut, not the bolt, this may (yeah right, probably will) damage the nut but that is cheaper to replace than the axle bolt.
To get the best result from a hammer blow make sure everything is well supported and can't move and dont piss about with little taps, one big one is better than a multitude of little ones.
If your not happy with this, there is a risk of damaging stuff, take it to a mechanic and ask if you can watch to learn about it. It usually looks fairly brutal so if your a bit metro prepare to flinch...

Have fun!

[marty]

had the same on an old cr250 or similar shitter that one of the guys bought (some old twin-shock thing) - 10 tonne on the press didn't work, so used a 7X rivet gun to get it out. GREAT fun

[Paul in NZ]

When you get it out.....

Make sure you reassemble it with some decent anti sieze compound or copper grease or something.

[JeremyW]

I have had an epiphany.... a rattle gun.... oh yeah

[WRT]

How did you get on with the rattle gun? Sorry its taken me a few days to remember to bring in the manual to scan (I refer you to my user title), but here's the relevant pages. Not sure if they are much use however . . . but let me know if there is anything else I can scan for you while its here at work.

[JeremyW]

How did you get on with the rattle gun? Sorry its taken me a few days to remember to bring in the manual to scan (I refer you to my user title), but here's the relevant pages. Not sure if they are much use however . . . but let me know if there is anything else I can scan for you while its here at work.

Thanks WRT Unfortunately no luck with the rattle gun I have got it turning but absolutely no lateral movement.

I think I might just be seriously underestimating now much force it actually is gonna take to get the damn thing out.

I am on the verge of just taking it in to the shop and watching them jack hammer it out!

[JeremyW]

Yea unfortunately the manual is about as useful as most workshop manuals... kinda like tits on a bull.

It merely says
"Remove the following
- rear axle nut/washer
- drive chain
- axle, adjustment plates, and wheel" without actually describing how to do it.

Im sure writing service manuals are all written by evil, satanic beings intent on causing as much pain and anguish as possible...

But thanks again for the effort WRT

[Paul in NZ]

If it's turning you may need to give it a whack while its turning to get it out. Either put the nut back on some of the way (stops spreading the threaded end) or use something like a brass drift. I have a big old hide mallet thats pretty useful for this stuff.

[Motu]

It merely says
"Remove the following
- rear axle nut/washer
- drive chain
- axle, adjustment plates, and wheel" without actually describing how to do it.

Well that's all you have to do - but obviously someone has put your axle in with no lube,and then it's had some time with water - not the fault of the guy who wrote the manual.

If it hasn't come out by now you'll have to remove the swing arm and use a press.Worse case senario is you'll have to cut through spacers and axle to get the wheel out,then work on the wheel.And next you could stuff up the wheel.....Good incentive to put some antiseize on the axle everytime.

[JeremyW]

Yea it should really be easy and manuals are written for either new or well maintained bikes. Just venting some frustration

That sounds like a bugger I hope it comes out with a bit of hammer force...

This is the first time I have tried getting the wheel out after getting the bike about 2 months ago. I know I will ensure this dosent happen again!