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Thread: Cleaning Aluminium Cylinder & Crankcase

  1. #1
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    26th August 2004 - 22:32
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    Cleaning Aluminium Cylinder & Crankcase

    I am restoring my old Darmah at the moment and want to clean up the slightly furry engine.
    Does anyone have any recommendations for tidying up the non-shiny bits of engine ally?

    Thanks
    ...she took the KT, and left me the Buell to ride....(Blues Brothers)

  2. #2
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    Use a bead blaster and recoat the engine afterwards....

  3. #3
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    26th August 2004 - 22:32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kwaka12R View Post
    Use a bead blaster and recoat the engine afterwards....
    Is there no way of doing it at home?
    Maybe some chemical that I can wash down the drain afterwards?
    ...she took the KT, and left me the Buell to ride....(Blues Brothers)

  4. #4
    Dr Emer's used to do a metal cleaning paste - it's pretty aggressive though,you'd need to do a test somewhere out of sight.I just use paint,but I'm pretty rough,nothing concourse for me.
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  5. #5
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    I used a small sand blaster with "wallnut shell" to clean some casings once. I got the wallnut shell grit from a local sandblasters in CHC.
    If you love it, let it go. If it comes back to you, you've just high-sided!
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  6. #6
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    24th June 2004 - 17:27
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    My own opinion is don't bead blast engine cases.... Beads get stuck to the cases and you will end up with them in the wrong places.

    Give it a degrease, was with Simple green and when the wife is not looking - stick them in the dishwasher .....

    ah hem...

    Paul N

    ps - anyone want to buy a used dishwasher? I need to sell it to pay the rent on the flat I'm now living in....

  7. #7
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    28th August 2005 - 19:37
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    Cleaning

    Citrus cleaner then S100 engine brightener.
    Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow aren’t just the 4 cycles of an engine

  8. #8
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    Sodium hydroxide (aka drain cleaner). Make up a weak solution (like a table spoon in a litre of water?) and apply it to the engine with a toohbrush. It'll fizz and pop and give off hydrogen gass (not to self... flammable as hell!).


    DON'T let it near any machined surface. It acts by eating away the aluminium (actually converting it to Al Oxide) so put it on a little at a time and have clean water handy to wash it off.

    When a patch is clean to your satisfaction, wash it off with fresh water, and move onto the next bit.
    $2,000 cash if you find a buyer for my house, kumeuhouseforsale@straightshooters.co.nz for details

  9. #9
    Yeah,I did that to clean my salt water damaged KT250 cases,but it made them go a dark colour.Maybe they could of polished up....but I'm a fan of the Plasticote cover up.DON'T do it with a carb.....fizz and pop - yeah right.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motu View Post
    Yeah,I did that to clean my salt water damaged KT250 cases,but it made them go a dark colour.Maybe they could of polished up....but I'm a fan of the Plasticote cover up.DON'T do it with a carb.....fizz and pop - yeah right.
    Interesting - I've done it to a range of aluminium bits and it worked quite well (no discoloration). I ca't recall the strength of the solution now though - but I know if you make it too concentrated it'll attack the aluminium too vigorously.

    And no - don't put it near any machined or mating surfaces...
    $2,000 cash if you find a buyer for my house, kumeuhouseforsale@straightshooters.co.nz for details

  11. #11
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    26th August 2004 - 22:32
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    Thanks all.
    I think I'll try the cleaners recommended first and see how I get on before getting more serious with the toxic chemicals.

    Cheers
    ...she took the KT, and left me the Buell to ride....(Blues Brothers)

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