When they say it good for 240hp that usually refers to the amount of horsepower produced when running 1bar of boost. But yea who knows depends what they meant when they said it
Those who dont learn from history, are doomed to repeat it.
That Z1300 looks like a serious piece of work.
If I had a smaller turbo I would consider positioning it in the same place, but the only place where mine will fit onto my bike is in front of the engine, as low as possible (without hitting the ground on corners). Probably will have to avoid the steeper speed humps that are around. And not ride off curbs, when I am stuck behind cars trying to pull out of Waterview BP during evening rush hour. The dents in my headers are currently hidden by header tape.
My brother says I come from the land of no mechanical sympathy. I say 'fuck it', toys are there to be played with.
Hopefully some photo's will attach themselves to this thread. If not, they should appear soon after.
Here goes.
The compressor housing has M12 stamped on it (not sure what that refers to) and also A/R .50 The total outside diameter is about 180mm (not including the short length of outlet pipe).
I know the compressor A/R obviously affects the shape of the airflow graph and the efficiency of the compressor.
The ID plate speaks for itself.
The inside diameter of the compressor housing inlet is 66mm. The inside diameter of the compressor housing outlet is 44mm.
The compressor wheel has an outside diameter of 76mm at the base, and 50.5mm at the tips of the blades.
The exhaust housing has A/R .63 stamped onto it and the total outside diameter is about 120mm.
The inside diameter of the inlet is rectangular and approx. 57x45mm. The outlet is 58mm. And the outside diameter of the exhaust wheel is 57mm.
Obviously about 1mm of clearance between the housing and wheel.
I haven't tried to measure the clearance between the compressor wheel and housing, but I don't intend to have it machined bigger to soften the blow when the boost comes on, so it's pretty irrelevant.
So. If there is anyone who can give an estimate of what the turbo might be capable of (airflow/hp), I am all ears. Bearing in mind that I am not after any specific output at any specific revs.
I am more than certain it will give the 50 - 100% torque increase that I am after. Most likely somewhere above 4000rpm.
Here are some photos of the bearing and comp/exhaust wheels
.63 a/r is usually good on a 2.5 litre motor so it might be a little "laggy"
.63 will be fine on that motor. i use to run 1.44 on my rotary. hahaha. thing lagged hard until 6k then just spun the wheels in every gear. the only problem i found with the turbo thing was the ecu. there is a crowd in aus that do bike turbo ecu's. you need to find one that has a MAP sensor so you can read the boost pressure at any one time and inject the right amount fuel. you could also get away with using two power commanders one for of boost and switch to the other for when you are on boost.
Another idea I am working on is some sort of boost control attached to a tilt sensor, I dont want it boosting when my knee is on the ground in a corner. Therefore cutting the boost at anything over 10 degrees lean should sort that problem. Coming out of the corner and onto the straight and she should boost like a dream.![]()
Whats up with Turbo'ing carby's.
My only expierence with turbo's has been with my EFI rotary engine. I have no idea on how a carby turbo would work or how you would tune your Air/Fuel ratio's without an aftermarket ECU. Carby's don't have no ECU's so I have no idea on how to tune a carby (pathetic eh?)
So my basic question is, after making up an exhaust manifold and mounting up the turbo, how does it run through the carby's and how do you tune it?
Last edited by EZAS; 20th November 2006 at 16:01. Reason: more questions
I wave to every biker I see.
Yep, you're wrongIt's called a blow through setup. Superchargers can also have their carb before or after. Problem is, the carb doesn't generally like to get pressurized. The float bowl doesn't function correctly, and the throttle spindles leak. All those problems can be solved of course (by far the easiest way is to enclose the carb in a sealed box so it thinks it's still running at atmospheric, but even that can be a pain... try sealing an accelerator into a box! (you generally wouldn't, you'd use a shaft with a seal)).
Glad to see I'm not too old to learn something.
Thanks for that
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