Changing Bearings

[k14]

Well, ok, it wasn't quite as easy as you described but I managed to do it without any hiccups.

First problem was the seals over them had all perished and rusted out, probably what stuffed the bearings in the first place, but after a bit of mashing with a screwdrive and some pliers I managed to get them out. Now I could see the bearings, I though they would just fall out, how wrong was I! So I got a flathead screwdriver and gave it a big bash, didn't do much apart from get stuck between the inner race and the seal. So then I tried What?'s idea of using a piece of dowel, wrong move again, a chunk splintered off and got wedged between the inner race and the seal, lucky I am not using these again, lol.

So I got on the blower to my mate who said "All you need is a punch." So I jumped in the car and went round to his place with the wheel. After about 10 quasi-girlie (being as unco as I am I didn't want to miss and break my disks or something like that). At long last they were out, a bit worse for wear I might add. I went down to saeco and got 2 new ones for $27. Then I went to honda to get some new seals, holding my breath and expecting to pay $20 for each one I was plesantly surprised when I found out they were $8 each, the guy also said he can do me a deal on some new bearings, $30 each, very good deal. New stop was supercheap autos where a plethora of grease was on show, knowing jack shit about grease I thought better to ask a staff member and read the backs of just about all of them to see what they were good for. I ended up getting the most expensive Nulon long life high temperature grease for $17.

So with bearings, seals and grease in hand I headed back home to fit them. After accidentally fitting one of the old bearings (I managed to smash it out again), everything went smoothly and I got everything back together in about an hour. I could feel the difference straight away when I pushed it out of the gargre. So a job well done and now I know how to change bearings.

Thanks heaps for the help guys. Now just got the chain and sprockets to do

[What?]

Glad you got it sussed K14. Guess I did make it sound a bit too easy, huh?
Chain and sprockets next... Got to admit that I would get the shop to do that. O-ring chains require the use of expensive tools to fit, unless you get on with a joining link (not something I like the idea of, but that doesn't mean they are no good) which is a bastard to install, or you get an endless chain which requires you remove the swingarm.
Shop should fit chain & sprockets in about 15 minutes flat.

[merv]

So I got on the blower to my mate who said "All you need is a punch."

Damn I told you need to use a punch here:

All of the above, plus I would say generally from my experience you'd need a decent punch and hammer to knock them out with - if they are finger tight you've got a worn hub problem.

[Goblin]

Forgive me for dredging this thread up but....I discovered my front wheel bearings are stuffed so need to replace them. I bought some new bearings but I cant get the old ones out. My problem is the spacer between the bearings is quite tight fitting and I cant get a decent purchase on the inside edge of the bearing to smash it out. Is there any other way to get the friggin thing out?

[MSTRS:Me]

A hammer and a (long) punch. Lay the wheel down on a hard surface (but on a blanket perhaps). Put the punch through the AxleHole TM and position the tip on the inner side of the (bottom) bearing. Hit with the hammer. Not too hard. Move the punch around a bit. Repeat. Eventually the bearing will pop out. Flip the wheel over and repeat with the otherside bearing.

When fitting the new bearings, take care that they don't skew as they go in. Use a socket the same size as the outer race and tap that with your trusty hammer.

Does that help?

[Goblin]

Does that help?

Well....not exactly. I have the tools and know how to do it but it's the spacer between the two bearings. When I did the rear bearings the spacer was quite loose by comparison and I could get the punch on the edge and it was relatively easy. The front is as tight as a nun's and wont shift sideways enough for me to get a good bash at it.

[MSTRS:Me]

Oh...take wheel to shop?

[Goblin]

If I could afford to pay someone to do it I would. Need every penny for entry fees this week.

[rogson]

Well....not exactly. I have the tools and know how to do it but it's the spacer between the two bearings. When I did the rear bearings the spacer was quite loose by comparison and I could get the punch on the edge and it was relatively easy. The front is as tight as a nun's and wont shift sideways enough for me to get a good bash at it.

I've had the same problem.
You need to generate a bit of clearance to free-up the spacer so you can move it over. Give the inner race of the bearings a few firm whacks. This will create a bit of play in the bearing and give you some clearance to move the spacer over (stuffs the bearings, but hey if they weren't already you wouldn't be replacing them).

Also some hubs are tapered, so the spacer moves over further/easier on one side. Check that out once you have the spacer loosened-up and remove the one you can get at easier (i.e. get the punch/drift onto the inner race through the hub) first.

[TLDV8]

The front is as tight as a nun's and wont shift sideways enough for me to get a good bash at it.

I don't know about nun's but what works on the SRAD/TL wheel is using the blunt end of a chisel longways..one side resting on the bearing with the other side on the sleeve (in about 30mm or so) ..if you then give the chisel a gental tap on the outer end,the sleeve will move over a couple of mm and you can then get a start on the bearing from the opposite side.

Of course i am not familiar with Honda wheel's so you would need to make sure the inner sleeve is not spigoted into the bearing.

[Goblin]

I've had the same problem.
You need to generate a bit of clearance to free-up the spacer so you can move it over. Give the inner race of the bearings a few firm whacks. This will create a bit of play in the bearing and give you some clearance to move the spacer over (stuffs the bearings, but hey if they weren't already you wouldn't be replacing them).

Also some hubs are tapered, so the spacer moves over further/easier on one side. Check that out once you have the spacer loosened-up and remove the one you can get at easier (i.e. get the punch/drift onto the inner race through the hub) first.

Yeah that's been the tricky part....getting the spacer freed up. Can move it about .5mm and its not quite enough to get the punch onto the edge of the bearing.

Of course i am not familiar with Honda wheel's so you would need to make sure the inner sleeve is not spigoted into the bearing.

The wheel is off my ZXR...
*Goes off to look up 'spigoted' n. a peg or plug used to stop the vent-hole of a cask or to control the flow of a tap.
Hmmm...you may be onto something there TLDV8. I will go and get brutal with it in the morning!

[Pixie]

Glad you got it sussed K14. Guess I did make it sound a bit too easy, huh?
Chain and sprockets next... Got to admit that I would get the shop to do that. O-ring chains require the use of expensive tools to fit, unless you get on with a joining link (not something I like the idea of, but that doesn't mean they are no good) which is a bastard to install, or you get an endless chain which requires you remove the swingarm.
Shop should fit chain & sprockets in about 15 minutes flat.

Expensive tools?
An angle grinder to remove the old chain (warehouse $25 )
A ball peen hammer to fit the new chain with a rivet link.

[Goblin]

Well after fifteen minutes or so of bashing I took my wheel down the road to Cam at A-Head Cylinder Specialists and the spacer was indeed well jammed onto the bearing. Five minutes and they were both out and he didn't charge me a bean! Got the new ones in piece of piss with the right sized socket and my bike is all go for Sunday.