KLR riders out there

[Padmei]

just remembered though :doh: valves must be dead cold for best measurement IIRC

If the beers are dead cold would that be close enough????

[JATZ]

If the beers are dead cold would that be close enough????

Yeah, that be close enough, and if it's not "who cares"..... have another cold frosty beer mmmmmmm :drool: beer :apint:

[warewolf]

just remembered though :doh: valves must be dead cold for best measurement IIRCeither we use Padmei's shed, or like when checking the GB, he dropped the bike off earlier so it was properly cool by shed time.

[Woodman]

Wohooohohohahahahaha oh Woodster what a knee slapper.

Wohahahahhahaha

yeah Ethel 2 hours - I mean it!! Yeah that's what he said - fur real... No I don't think he was serious...

Ok 2 and a half. Shed night plus bbq sounds good . If padmei wants to keep his valves cold I can dub him aound.:dodge:

[NordieBoy]

The ventura bag that came with the racks as a package does'nt rest on the seat. It just hangs & swings like a pendulum. The bend didn't just unbend as you would expect, it actually dropped down as well due to the fastening point being too far forward.

It sits on the seat on my bike.

[Padmei]

Found this on Barts bike spec site. Velly intelesting...

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/kawasaki/Kawasaki_klv1000%2004.htm

[Howie]

Ok what size and type chainand sprockets are people running on their KLR's, it's nearly time for me to get some new ones?

[Moki]

Fyi..just did the Doo Hickey on my 2009 KLR....much sweeter sounding motor..

Should anyone need to do the doo around Hawkes Bay I would be willing to offer help and tools...............fyi.......:cool:

Just did my doo (w/ torsion spring) today..finally! A real bitch attaching the spring to the doo, but other than that quite uneventful. Much quieter engine-not sure why this is the case? The old doo was still is good shape and the spring still good(?) but not much pull left on it even though the to doo was only half-way through it's adjustment range.

[Padmei]

Ok what size and type chainand sprockets are people running on their KLR's, it's nearly time for me to get some new ones?

Not sure what size chain & stuff but i swap between a 14 & the 15T front. the 15 is much nicer to cruise at & the 14 way better for blatting around the forest but a pain on longer trips. It's such a PITA to keep retensioning the chain though.


Just did my doo (w/ torsion spring) today..finally! A real bitch attaching the spring to the doo, but other than that quite uneventful. Much quieter engine-not sure why this is the case? The old doo was still is good shape and the spring still good(?) but not much pull left on it even though the to doo was only half-way through it's adjustment range.

Good stuff. I found mine quieter too after the doo was done. I guess the chain must rattle around a fair bit. I reckon the case must resonate the vibes or something

[warewolf]

I reckon the case must resonate the vibes or somethingLC4 wannabe!!

[marks]

LC4 wannabe!!

he didn't say - "shake so bad it feels like its going to explode"

[Howie]

[QUOTE=Padmei;1129598038]Not sure what size chain & stuff but i swap between a 14 & the 15T front. the 15 is much nicer to cruise at & the 14 way better for blatting around the forest but a pain on longer trips. It's such a PITA to keep retensioning the chain though.

Thanks for that Padmei, Might get a 14 for the front, as my front sprocket is stuffed, and see what I think before I get the new chain. As my chain doesn't seem to be that streched, but then I haven't measured it for wear yet.

[Woodman]

Howie, I was running a 14 and it was great in the gnarly stuff, but as padmei says a bit low for extended road stuff, but not that bad. Now have a 15t which is ok and better for gravel, although wheelies are harder now. Also with the 15 steep downhills require more clutch feathering to keep the wheel turning and not stalling the engine.
I can't see the point in gearing a dp bike right down so it is a pain on the road, may as well get a 250.

[Moki]

he didn't say - "shake so bad it feels like its going to explode"

No. That's reserved for the Husaberg...

[Waihou Thumper]

No...The Husy don't as much as the KTM....
Almost...:) BUT, it does explode if you don't change the oil every hour and filters too...:(
No. That's reserved for the Husaberg...

[dino3310]

I can't see the point in gearing a dp bike right down so it is a pain on the road,

i can
Cnut hill:laugh:

[Padmei]

Howie, I was running a 14 and it was great in the gnarly stuff, but as padmei says a bit low for extended road stuff, but not that bad. Now have a 15t which is ok and better for gravel, although wheelies are harder now. Also with the 15 steep downhills require more clutch feathering to keep the wheel turning and not stalling the engine.
I can't see the point in gearing a dp bike right down so it is a pain on the road, may as well get a 250.

very true words.

I may have to take Gonzo off the road for a few days as there are many parts that need unbending.

[NordieBoy]

very true words.

I may have to take Gonzo off the road for a few days as there are many parts that need unbending.

But taking Gonzo off the road is what caused the bent bits in the first place.

[Woodman]

Went to get a new choke cable yesterday but ex japan (wtf). Took me boken cable into Murray Thorns today and they made me a new one for $20. Went to put it on just before and realised that I had not given them the adjusting bit at the handlebar end. Now need to take it back. CONCENTRATE WOODMAN.

[marks]

i can
Cnut hill:laugh:

DT is 16T front stock - for cnut tomorrow its down to 13T - any smaller and the chain will touch the securing nut......

will it be enough - that is the question......

[veny]

Guys, help!
I've ordered a D606 for the front but there seems to be some confusion as to what I can put on the back. The Kwaka engineers didn't leave much room. &^$%*
There's a worn Dunlop K750 130/80 17" on it at the moment, with only 5mm clearance to the plastic chain guard, 10mm to the side of the swing arm and 20mm to the front. Exhaust is looking close too.
To tell you the truth, I'm a bit disappointed with this discovery. I do so want to love this bike..., but she's fighting me every step of the way :(

Any suggestions?

[dino3310]

Guys, help!
To tell you the truth, I'm a bit disappointed with this discovery. I do so want to love this bike..., but she's fighting me every step of the way :(

Any suggestions?

ummm i know ..............
:shutup::shutup::shutup::shutup:

[NordieBoy]

I thought the D606 in 130 was a common fitment?

[marks]

I thought the D606 in 130 was a common fitment?

yup - its quite tight though - I had to adjust my exhaust a tad and the clearance to the chain guard is tight but it does fit and is a great tire

[veny]

yup - its quite tight though - I had to adjust my exhaust a tad and the clearance to the chain guard is tight but it does fit and is a great tire

Ok, thanks. I'll try the 130/90 17 D606.
Trim up the knobs with a sharp knife if needed :eek5:

[pete376403]

The 130/90 on my bike only touches the muffler (standard) at full compression and even then only wears the paint a bit. .If I was really bothered I'd just massage the muffler with a plastic mallet. The plastic chain sheild touches but it only buzzes a bit, doesn't cause any problems. Probably helps knock the mud off

[veny]

A popular tire by the looks of it. A 5 week delay :eek5:
Oh well. Bald tyres are fun too :)

I started looking at the foot pegs over the weekend and found this:
http://michaelnel.smugmug.com/gallery/3816778#220498871_TjLua
A worthwhile mod. Especially if the bash plate mounts on there too.

It looks doable and a good winter project...

[marks]

I started looking at the foot pegs over the weekend and found this:
http://michaelnel.smugmug.com/gallery/3816778#220498871_TjLua
A worthwhile mod. Especially if the bash plate mounts on there too.

It looks doable and a good winter project...

I had some square tube (boxed) welded across the frame under the footpegs and extended (and lowered) the footpeg brackets to provide 3 mounting points instead of 2 per footpeg. The tube is also the rear mounting point for my xr650r bash plate. It seems to take the impacts much better than the standaerd bits

[veny]

That's a great idea of welding some box tubing underneath, doubling as a bash plate mount!
I got some handle bar risers last year because it just felt wrong standing up on the beast.
The hunchback of notre dame on a KLR is not a good look. lol
It's allot better now, but a bit more distance between the pegs and the bars would be perfect.
How did you get a three point mount for the pegs?
Would you mind posting some photo's of the mod?

[Woodman]

About an inch and a half back would be great. Would help with riding position and also because with mx boots it would help a lot with control of gear and brake levers.

[Padmei]

I like the pegs on that thread. I've been looking for some better ones for gonzo. I actually bent the footpeg bracket the other day so had to pound f**k out of it to straighten it up.

Marks i'd be interested in seeing some pics of the mod. Also i'm erallly getting pissed off with the gearbox ratio. Do you find having the 685 kit gives you a bit more oomph in 2nd? I'm either bloody revving or lugging on technical stuff with my 15 tooth on

[NordieBoy]

There's something wrong(ish) with yours. I don't think it should be that smooth. It should be closer to Woodys in performance than it is.

[marks]

I like the pegs on that thread. I've been looking for some better ones for gonzo. I actually bent the footpeg bracket the other day so had to pound f**k out of it to straighten it up.

Marks i'd be interested in seeing some pics of the mod. Also i'm erallly getting pissed off with the gearbox ratio. Do you find having the 685 kit gives you a bit more oomph in 2nd? I'm either bloody revving or lugging on technical stuff with my 15 tooth on

I never notice a gearing problem (I did when I ran a 16T front which is great on the open road)

hard to know how much difference the 685 kit makes - its only a 5% increase in size. What does make a difference is the rekluse auto clutch. Often when you are lugging in second its only actually lugging a small amount of the time and the clutch just slips a bit untill the speed picks up. You can use your left hand as a poor mans rekluse if you want to....

I'll post some footpeg photos over the weekend

[marks]

There's something wrong(ish) with yours. I don't think it should be that smooth. It should be closer to Woodys in performance than it is.

almost DR like is it?

[NordieBoy]

You can use your left hand as a poor mans rekluse if you want to....

I avoided this until I got it through my head that the clutch is a wear item just like tyres/chains/brakepads etc.
I use it a lot more now to stop the engine lugging out of corners and uphills.

On Fluffy Cats XR650R you had to use it or it'd stall soooo easily.

[NordieBoy]

almost DR like is it?

More KY type smooth.

As though the exhaust has been welded up and a 5mm hole drilled in the end.

[warewolf]

Also i'm erallly getting pissed off with the gearbox ratio. ... I'm either bloody revving or lugging on technical stuff with my 15 tooth onSo rev it or clutch it. No one final drive ratio will work for all adventure conditions, they're just too diverse and the bikes' gearbox ratios are too close.

[warewolf]

On Fluffy Cats XR650R you had to use it or it'd stall soooo easily.Would you say it was more stall-prone than the 640??

[marks]

More KY type smooth.

As though the exhaust has been welded up and a 5mm hole drilled in the end.

have you helped him do all the 'free mods' yet? (a drill bit, a hole saw and a washer are all you need).

I don't think I've ever ridden anything that feels as strangled and stodgy as a dead stock klr... (stock DR is better IMO - but not by much)

[GPS MAN]

Mine seems ok as far as power ....But, I am old and slow:confused:

[NordieBoy]

Would you say it was more stall-prone than the 640??

Dunno. Never stalled either.

Have seen the XR stalled more though.

[NordieBoy]

have you helped him do all the 'free mods' yet? (a drill bit, a hole saw and a washer are all you need).

I don't think I've ever ridden anything that feels as strangled and stodgy as a dead stock klr... (stock DR is better IMO - but not by much)

What free mods?

[veny]

A miserable cold and wet day in CHCH, so watched this:
http://www.youtube.com/user/chochi70#p/u/18/wL6VaEHca5k

Nordie, I watched your vid posts too..., excellent!
Very entertaining :)

Thanks...

[Woodman]

Padmei, I didn't wanna say anything after the wee ride i had on yours, but as Nordie says it does seem a bit errr smooth.

Has it been de restricted? If NZ klrs need that, but they are probly aussie spec. not sure.

Valve clearances?

The 22 cent mod is easy, and I have a bag of the correct thickness washers. (7 cents each so couldn't bring myself to buy only one)

I made a conscious effort not to use low gear on the dusty and lugged a lot in second, and it is standard gearing 15,43.

What is your top speed? on private roads of course.

[Woodman]

Was a bit bored today so decided to do the doohickey. pretty straight forward job, and will be quicker next time now that I have made the tools to do it.
Wasn't even going to do it as i had convinced myself that it would be ok.
I was wrong as the spring was broken and had obviously been caught on something moving as well cos it was all bent outa shape. Not sure how long it had been like that, but is a worry considering I have been pretty regular in loosening off the doohickey bolt and relying on that spring to do the tensioning.

The lever was fine but I replaced it with a eaglemike one anyway along with the eaglemike spring.
So you klr riders out there, my advice is to do the doohickey quick smart.

Shame on kawasaki for leaving a known fault and safety issue in production for 20 plus years, that must be some kind of record.

[Padmei]

About time Woodman. Shame on you for leaving a known fault & safety issue in your bike for 20months!!

Spose it's like me putting off checking the valve clearances.

I've got lots of straigtening & stuff to do but don't want it to take it off the road for too long. I found the rear tyre chewing away at the chain guard on the weekend so went to the tyre with the breadknife.

NZ got the Canadian model of KLR650 so don't have to be restricted. I have ummed & ared about doing the mods but really don't want to spend more on gas than necessary - as it is I am filling it up every few days - 18000Kms so far in 1 1/2 yrs & really happy about everything except the gear ratios. I'm not sure if I want to do the mods ...

[Woodman]

What is your kms per litre?? Mine seems to do about 18 kms per litre and the only mod is the 22cent mod, which never affected mileage but does give a wee bit more oomph at lower revs, and anyway we got big tanks.

[GPS MAN]

Yea, I did the doohicky...made the engine quieter.....I think?? I am going to look into that 22 cent mod next.... Other than that the KLR is going great, 6400 k's and counting!

[Padmei]

What is your kms per litre?? Mine seems to do about 18 kms per litre and the only mod is the 22cent mod, which never affected mileage but does give a wee bit more oomph at lower revs, and anyway we got big tanks.

18 litres for 330kms. Thats a tankful from tippy top to couple of ks into reserve. 17.78KpL? or 0.06Lper km or $2.50 for 4lbs on special boneless.

[Woodman]

18 litres for 330kms. Thats a tankful from tippy top to couple of ks into reserve. 17.78KpL? or 0.06Lper km or $2.50 for 4lbs on special boneless.

So the same mileage (kilometerage). do the 22 cent mod then, it does help a wee bit.

Drilled out my airbox a couple of days ago and ordered a k&n filter so it will be good to see what happens. Next time i do a dusty butt i am going to clean my air filter each day cos mine was way too clogged up and my theory is that is what caused the excessive oil use cos the motor may have started to suck it out the breather a bit harder. There are flaws with that theory though, and its more than likely the fact i did so many kms in a short time so just seemed like a lot more oil use, and its always been an oil burner.

[Padmei]

The only time I use oil is when I'm doing some spirited riding. Uni filters seem to be big in oz. Having some preoiled filter skins in a plastic bag sounds like a great idea for something like the dusty. What size washers were they for 22cent mod?

[Woodman]

The only time I use oil is when I'm doing some spirited riding. Uni filters seem to be big in oz. Having some preoiled filter skins in a plastic bag sounds like a great idea for something like the dusty. What size washers were they for 22cent mod?

.025" I have a bag of them in the shed if you give up trying to find them in mega.

The funny thing about the oil use was i was deliberately not using first gear as much and was short shifting at 5500-6000rpm whereas I usually take it to 7000. I'll do the pcv thing shortly, and if that don't work will probly get a 685 kit.

[Padmei]

.
The funny thing about the oil use was i was deliberately not using first gear as much and was short shifting at 5500-6000rpm whereas I usually take it to 7000.

.

Fcuk & you wonder why you use oil??

Fcuking hell

[marks]

18 litres for 330kms. Thats a tankful from tippy top to couple of ks into reserve. 17.78KpL? or 0.06Lper km or $2.50 for 4lbs on special bonerless.

I go on reserve at 280km so thats the difference in enconomy all the mods make (15.5km/l)

[Woodman]

I go on reserve at 280km so thats the difference in enconomy all the mods make (15.5km/l)

What mods you got?

Just wanna know so my fuel economy doesn't get that bad.

[warewolf]

ordered a k&n filter so it will be good to see what happens.

She'll get full of dust. K&N are not known for keeping dust out. Even the packaging says they let in 50% more dust than OEM.

[Padmei]

I go on reserve at 280km so thats the difference in enconomy all the mods make (15.5km/l)

Cheers Marks. Thats why I won't be doing the mod.

[cooneyr]

..... Having some preoiled filter skins in a plastic bag sounds like a great idea for something like the dusty. ....

I liked your local 640Adv riders idea (used if for the second DB1k in 08). Cut the feet out of your wifes stockings and put them over the air filter. They absorb a little bit of oil from the filter and retain a large amount of the dust. WW exchanged the "foots" in Hanmer (molesworth was very dusty that year) and the stock filter looked like it had been freshly cleaned. Worked brilliantly.

Cheers R

Oh and probably a good idea to cut the foots out the morning you leave home so she has a day to calm down after she finds the evidence :shifty:

[marks]

Cheers Marks. Thats why I won't be doing the mod.

the modified bike is so much more fun to ride - its easily worth the $6 per 300km or whatever it costs
mind you it probably costs more in tires as well :yes:

[NordieBoy]

Cheers Marks. Thats why I won't be doing the mod.

That's with the big-bore kit too...

[warewolf]

Cut the feet out of your wifes stockings and put them over the air filter. They absorb a little bit of oil from the filter and retain a large amount of the dust. WW exchanged the "foots" in Hanmer (molesworth was very dusty that year) and the stock filter looked like it had been freshly cleaned. Worked brilliantly

Actually it is the other end, the leg bits get used caving so I had lots of the tops left over. :) Cut the legs off and tie that end, and oil before install. I have 3 of them, when they are all dirty they get washed & oiled at the same time as the filter. Then 2 spares sit in a zip-lock bag until needed.

I run them all the time since the filter is tiny and self-dusts. It has certainly cut down on the number of times the filter needs a wash. Also it is much easier to kick-start the bike with a clean filter. Do bear in mind that you are trapping the bigger stuff on the skin, and the little stuff will still be accumulating in the filter... so effectively it is dirtier than it looks.

PS you can buy proper "filterskins" from dirt bike shops if you've put ladders in all your stockings.

[Woodman]

She'll get full of dust. K&N are not known for keeping dust out. Even the packaging says they let in 50% more dust than OEM.

read all that, but its weird considering k&n filters were invented for baja. I am gonna get some of the prefilter foam to put in when it gets dusty. Mind you, you shoulda seen how much dust got through the foam one in there now. icky.

[NordieBoy]

read all that, but its weird considering k&n filters were invented for baja. I am gonna get some of the prefilter foam to put in when it gets dusty. Mind you, you shoulda seen how much dust got through the foam one in there now. icky.

Rebuild after race type Baja.

[pete376403]

Did a bunch of rides last week/weekend. Couple of nights in Hanmer, two in Reefton. Taylors Pass (?), Awatere Valley, Molesworth, Hamner, Cheviot, Gore bay, Motunau Beach, back to Culverden via Lowry peaks rd? (not certain about some names) Lakes Taylor and Sumner were visited as well. Random Spur Rd was in there somewhere, Also Napoleon Hill, the river with the tunnels, Big River, Denniston to Iron Bridge, Porika, some other tracks I cant recall names of.
Anyway, Bike didn't use much oil while on the gravel, but sure sucked it up on the boring fast bit between St Arnaud and Blenhiem.
I notice the bike runs very cool - cold. Only warms up to about half way when really plugging hard in mud, even though I have blanked off the bottom half of the radiator. Wonder what (being cold) this does for the oiil usage?

[Howie]

HI Peter, glad your ride went well, what was the New creek to Denniston track like, how was the Mackley river crosssing? Thinking of doing that one again soon.

My older model KLR only seems to use any oil if it is run consistently at higher revs, last long ride it used about 300ml over 1400km, how does that compare?

[Padmei]

Wow I think you nailed most of the rides in the Sth Island Pete:clap: Mine runs pretty cool too. Only gets past halfway if it's stuck in mud or something & has to idle or rev while trying to get it out. Really the bike could have been made a lot slimmer by having a narrower rad & turning the fluid receptacle ( cant spell reseiovoir) sideways.

But then again looking at something like the XTX it may have been designed to look big.

[marks]

Bike didn't use much oil while on the gravel, but sure sucked it up on the boring fast bit between St Arnaud and Blenhiem.
I notice the bike runs very cool - cold. Only warms up to about half way when really plugging hard in mud, even though I have blanked off the bottom half of the radiator. Wonder what (being cold) this does for the oiil usage?

My greeny 08 used 500ml between Reefton - St Arnaud and Picton - sitting at 5500+ rpm on the straight bits - used more on that stretch than the rest of that trip put together.

My black one has a thermobob kit and the temp just sits in the middle of the dial all the time

[Padmei]

Well I took the top off tonite & measured the valve clearances. The exhaust were not too bad but the intake were pretty tight. one should have been .10 to .20 but was .076.
Any way I've got the cams off & gonna get some new shims tommorrow. Came across an excellent shim calculator spreadsheet thingy that helps out a lot.

Following the manual it was pretty straightforward. Quite pleasing actually. Amazing how much you can learn about your engine when it's sitting there open in front of you.

[Woodman]

Oil use on mine I am pretty sure can be attributed to long highway use too I think now, and also runs cool when doing that too, but unlike you guys mine gets pretty warm when plugging around in mud and climbing hills. The fan comes on a lot.

Padmei my inlets were tight too. They are very simple to work on aye. Was the rockercover awkward to geet off?

[Padmei]

Was the rockercover awkward to geet off?

Nah easier than the manual says. The 08's are easier cos there's less crap in the way & the rad is thinner.

[pete376403]

I found getting the cam cover off was a bit difficult until I removed a bit from the cast boss that the air pipe (smog thing) bolts to.
A few minutes withthe die grinder.

regards the radiator size, wonder if a narrower (ie about half the width) but the same height would work - something like a DRZ 400 rad

[pete376403]

HI Peter, glad your ride went well, what was the New creek to Denniston track like, how was the Mackley river crosssing? Thinking of doing that one again soon.

My older model KLR only seems to use any oil if it is run consistently at higher revs, last long ride it used about 300ml over 1400km, how does that compare?
Denniston track was really good. Water crossings were low, Mackley was about knee deep but still caused a problem or two. (Rock snot or whatever it is is REALLY slippery)

Your oil use is a lot better than mine - I used best part of 1 litre between the end of the Porika and Picton

[Beem02]

Denniston track was really good. Water crossings were low, Mackley was about knee deep but still caused a problem or two. (Rock snot or whatever it is is REALLY slippery)

Your oil use is a lot better than mine - I used best part of 1 litre between the end of the Porika and Picton


Hey Pete - The extra roads you didn't mention were Limestone Road (pretty boring), Kaiwara Road (not difficult but its always a great ride, especially combined with a very muddy Random Spur road in the rain this time). On the West Coast: Gannons Road/Waitahu River (lots of boulders in places but a good off-road ride) and the Braeburn track to Porika.

The Mackley river crossing was as good as you could have hoped for, despite flooding the DR and needing to change my oil in Murchison. The best advice was from a guy I met there at the time, who said "we now push the bikes through 2 to a bike and never have problems with flooded bikes anymore." Judging by the size and slipperiness of the unseen boulder that unseated me mid-crossing, I'd say that was good advice, if a bit late!

Cheers

Best ride of the trip would have to be Napoleon Hill, especially after the KTM got flooded and riding out through the tunnels for the last time in the dark!

[Woodman]

Went for the first ride today after replacinh the doohickey. Very quiet in the engine department . Lovely.

[marks]

Went for the first ride today after replacinh the doohickey. Very quiet in the engine department . Lovely.

I havent even started mine since November :cry:

[Eddieb]

I havent even started mine since November :cry:



I feel your pain. At least you've been able to give the DT a workout though.

[warewolf]

Your oil use is a lot better than mine - I used best part of 1 litre between the end of the Porika and Picton

Geez, my 2T doesn't use anywhere near that much!!

[Padmei]

Done a bit on Gonzo over the last week.
Checked valves - thanks to woodman I finally got the right shims. Local Kawa dealer wanted $17 each!! I managed to get some from a more friendlier bike shop for swapsies & some cash. Intake were tight, exhaust not bad.
Did the 22cent mod & backed off the fuel screw. Checked the doo & cam chain adjuster.
Greased the steering head, checked cush drive -found rooted chain & front sprocket.

Whilst putting the diaphram back in the carb I accidently pinched it & it has a little tear. Not a problem I thought until I saw they were $50 US on ebay - that equates to about $200 NZ from a dealer. I remembered a mate around the corner said he had a pile of parts so gave him a call & $200 later I have almost a KLR Tengai in lots of boxes. Already I've found a diaphram, front sprocket & front brake pads. So if anyone has an old KLR frame & swingarm I may have a winter project.

Put it back together temp & took it for a blast around the block tonite. It def has better throttle response & revs freeer. Well worth doing the mods at this stage anyway.
I have to retorque the cam caps when I can find a small torque wrench that fits under the frame.

[JATZ]

So if anyone has an old KLR frame & swingarm I may have a winter project.

I might know where to lay my hands on something, if your serious

See if you can get it going before Wildat gets his going :rofl:

[Padmei]

I might know where to lay my hands on something, if your serious

All depends on the money my little motuekean

[Woodman]

So where are all these klr parts hmmm? Tend to have a demand for them here too ya know.

[Padmei]

So where are all these klr parts hmmm? Tend to have a demand for them here too ya know.

Gotta find some cash first topick them up. Damn recession I reckon it's just hitting now cos noones paying anything.

[NordieBoy]

Gotta find some cash first topick them up. Damn recession I reckon it's just hitting now cos noones paying anything.

I got offered a spare engine yesterday...
It was returned with the frame, handlebars, pipes, tank and rear wheel by the cops after being ripped and stripped...

I think it'd fit in the DR chassis...

1981(ish) GSX400 four. About the same HP as the DR but a bit less torque. Air cooled and the best bit... 800 gen-you-whine km's on the clock (that it hasn't got).

Hmmm...
Spare DR650 chassis here. Also spare XR350 chassis :D

Just gotta find some cash first topick them up. Damn recession I reckon it's just hitting now cos noones paying anything.

[cooneyr]

..... 1981(ish) GSX400 four. ...... Spare DR650 chassis here. Also spare XR350 chassis :D.......

Do it!!! I'm keen to watch you fall off it ;)

I'm keen as to make a monster - oh wait I already have and its arriving at Easter - doh!

[JATZ]

I think I got my mitts on an early eighties XT 250 frame, complete minus the engine and tank I think, will that do for this franken bike :D

[Box'a'bits]

What we really need is a ride for scrapheap bikes. You know, frankenbikes. Nothing over $1k-$1.2k. Like over in the AdvRider aussie site....

[Woodman]

Padmei, has this tengei got wheels?

[Padmei]

Padmei, has this tengei got wheels?

No. no frame, swing arm, wheels & by the look of it no crank:stupid: Not sure whats in the boxes. I just got a few bits & left the rest under mates house.

You got some wheels? Frame? swingarm?
I'd like to build a project bike - only thing is I'm not sure if I like the Tengais:wacko:

[NordieBoy]

I'd like to build a project bike - only thing is I'm not sure if I like the Tengais:wacko:

What's the chance of it looking like a Tengai when you're done with it anyway?

[NordieBoy]

What we really need is a ride for scrapheap bikes. You know, frankenbikes. Nothing over $1k-$1.2k. Like over in the AdvRider aussie site....

Dusty Butt 1000km.

FrankenBike Challenge.

[Padmei]

Dusty Butt 2011.

FrankenBike Challenge.

Ahahaahahhh ahem. You mean the Dusty Butt 1000Km challenge?

BTW the chances of the Tengai looking like a Tengai would be very high - cos the plastics are VERY big

[warewolf]

What we really need is a ride for scrapheap bikes. You know, frankenbikes. Nothing over $1k-$1.2k. Like over in the AdvRider aussie site....


Dusty Butt 1000km.

FrankenBike Challenge.Okay, well that's something I can play. Have a <$400 DR250 in the shed, "renovator's dream". :D Heck it might even be quite a comfy-ish bike for the DB, has an awesomely-big seat - and low seat height - compared to a modern dirt bike.

[Woodman]

Okay, well that's something I can play. Have a <$400 DR250 in the shed, "renovator's dream". :D Heck it might even be quite a comfy-ish bike for the DB, has an awesomely-big seat - and low seat height - compared to a modern dirt bike.

You could add bits off of your exc and then it would be a proper frankenbike.

[warewolf]

You could add bits off of your exc and then it would be a proper frankenbike.I could, but then it wouldn't be eligible for VMX, and getting the 200 going again would become harder...

[Squiggles]

I have 3 or 4 bikes worth of klr600 parts :crazy:

[Padmei]

Glenn at 650.net recommends not putting the K&N filters on as they are more restrictive than the stockers. Most guys are putting in Unis

[veny]

Did the clutch & side stand bypass last night and came across this franken part.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/asset.php?fid=189384&uid=26068&d=1266347860
From what I gather it's some sort of clean air system. It has a thin hose to the carb, a fatter one to a metal tube next to the spark plug, with god knows what on the end..., a sensor? And another fat hose connected to the frame. All very mysterious...
Apart from the picture above, the Clymer doesn't even mention it.
Do I need this thing?
Has anyone removed theirs?

[Padmei]

Can't access the pic. Can anyone else?

[veny]

Yeah, a strange pic interface on this site. An upgrade?
Let's try an attachement...
I'm almost certain it's a clean air system of some sorts.
The hose & metal tube next to the spark plug is a vacuum.
Another bigger hose disappears into the frame and has me puzzled.

[NordieBoy]

Yeah, a strange pic interface on this site. An upgrade?
Let's try an attachement...
I'm almost certain it's a clean air system of some sorts.
The hose & metal tube next to the spark plug is a vacuum.
Another bigger hose disappears into the frame and has me puzzled.

It's the turbo!

[veny]

Whoohoo!
I better leave it on then :)

[warewolf]

I'd say it is the secondary air injection system. Under certain conditions as measured by intake vacuum (thin hose to carb) the valve dumps fresh air from A into the exhaust via B. That has two purposes: firstly to add oxygen to help complete combustion to reduce emissions, secondly to dilute the nasties with fresh air to reduce the emissions measurements (parts per million).

They are known to increase the exhaust popping on the overrun. Just got rid of mine on the 640A; it still pops but a lot less especially at lower engine speeds.

There is absolutely no performance gain to be had by removing it, except by removing weight: 440g for all the bits on the 640.

[pete376403]

Colin is correct, it draws air from up inside the frame tube and dumps it into the exhaust port. The US sites refer to removal of all this as "de-californication". MarkS bike had this removed - caused his retirement from the SouthCoast ride after the plug filling the hole in the ex port came loose - it made strange noises and had him worried.
The weight loss from its removal is hardly worth the effort.

You are better off spending the time looking for places where the electrical loom contacts the frame and rubs through the insulation. There's one spot just up from the valve in your picture.

[marks]

Colin is correct, it draws air from up inside the frame tube and dumps it into the exhaust port. The US sites refer to removal of all this as "de-californication". MarkS bike had this removed - caused his retirement from the SouthCoast ride after the plug filling the hole in the ex port came loose - it made strange noises and had him worried.
The weight loss from its removal is hardly worth the effort.

I think removing it lessens backfiring on decelleration

less crap on the bike is good - rip it off - just not while your bike is in warranty

[veny]

Thanks guys, spot on with the explanation(s).
I'll remove it at a later date.

Loom chaffing noted and I gave it a good going over, repositioning and cable tying where needed.
Also added an accessory socket :woohoo:

[Padmei]

Had a good shakedown ride around the forest today & with all the mods & new chain, sprocket etc it runs really smoothly. Whilst being hesitant doing the carb mods I have to say it has made a difference to the engines characteristics.
The increased bottom end power has made riding in 2nd gear over difficult terrain easier with no lugging (with a bit of help from the clutch) Sometimes I was riding in 3rd thinking I was in 2nd.
No bottoming out at all with the intimators.
Above all I am still so impressed with the 606 & E07 tyres today. The terrain was dry , loose & hard & the tyres excelled. Even when I stuffed up a line on a steep uphill a squirt of throttle had me hooking up with & blasting off the top.

Funnily as with a number of things, the harder I rode the bike, the stronger & more responsive it became.

[Woodman]

Had a good shakedown ride around the forest today & with all the mods & new chain, sprocket etc it runs really smoothly. Whilst being hesitant doing the carb mods I have to say it has made a difference to the engines characteristics.
The increased bottom end power has made riding in 2nd gear over difficult terrain easier with no lugging (with a bit of help from the clutch) Sometimes I was riding in 3rd thinking I was in 2nd.
No bottoming out at all with the intimators.
Above all I am still so impressed with the 606 & E07 tyres today. The terrain was dry , loose & hard & the tyres excelled. Even when I stuffed up a line on a steep uphill a squirt of throttle had me hooking up with & blasting off the top.

Funnily as with a number of things, the harder I rode the bike, the stronger & more responsive it became.

Ditto with the carb mods, no need to run a 14 tooth front any more really imho.

[NordieBoy]

Ditto with the carb mods, no need to run a 14 tooth front any more really imho.

Same with de-corking the DR.

Say 5% better de-corked.
A 14t is basically 7% lower.

Almost the same effect.

But de-corking + 14t is just more betterer.

[warewolf]

Ditto with the carb mods, no need to run a 14 tooth front any more really imho.Geez I should pull finger and do mine.

[Howie]

Ok all you KLR riders out there, who has fitted after market HandGuards if so what brands have been used, and what were the pro's/ cons of your choice. IE ease of fitting, amount of protection to levers/ hands etc. I am looking at purchasing some soon.

cheers

Paul

[Woodman]

Ok all you KLR riders out there, who has fitted after market HandGuards if so what brands have been used, and what were the pro's/ cons of your choice. IE ease of fitting, amount of protection to levers/ hands etc. I am looking at purchasing some soon.

cheers

Paul

I got the maier ones from the states klr.com i think. very solid and strong and bolt pretty much straight on, and they are quite big so offer real good wind protectionn too, and were about the same price as comparable ascerbis ones at the time. came in klr red too. Happy

[Padmei]

I've got Acerbis rally pros cos they looked the coolest. To fit them was a bit fiddly - I had to spacer the ends so they'd clear the clutch & brake levers. I ended up cutting the knob off one of the levers to get them fitting right. I also had to grind off a thingy off the bar ( can't remember what it did) as it got in the way. I kept my barend weights on as well.

I don't think they offer that much in the way of wind protection however from the garks on them I guess they've saved a few swollen knuckles.

[Howie]

I got the maier ones from the states klr.com i think. very solid and strong and bolt pretty much straight on, and they are quite big so offer real good wind protectionn too, and were about the same price as comparable ascerbis ones at the time. came in klr red too. Happy

Thanks woodman, they look quite good, and your right the price is very competitive, with what I've seen over here, and they come in KLR black too.


I've got Acerbis rally pros cos they looked the coolest. To fit them was a bit fiddly - I had to spacer the ends so they'd clear the clutch & brake levers. I ended up cutting the knob off one of the levers to get them fitting right. I also had to grind off a thingy off the bar ( can't remember what it did) as it got in the way. I kept my barend weights on as well.

I don't think they offer that much in the way of wind protection however from the garks on them I guess they've saved a few swollen knuckles.

Thanks Padmei, I'm not that worried about wind protection, although it's nice on a cold winter's day. I don't have any bar end weights, as mine's the earlier model KLR.

[veny]

Had a good shakedown ride around the forest today & with all the mods & new chain, sprocket etc it runs really smoothly. Whilst being hesitant doing the carb mods I have to say it has made a difference to the engines characteristics.
The increased bottom end power has made riding in 2nd gear over difficult terrain easier with no lugging (with a bit of help from the clutch) Sometimes I was riding in 3rd thinking I was in 2nd.
No bottoming out at all with the intimators.
Above all I am still so impressed with the 606 & E07 tyres today. The terrain was dry , loose & hard & the tyres excelled. Even when I stuffed up a line on a steep uphill a squirt of throttle had me hooking up with & blasting off the top.

Funnily as with a number of things, the harder I rode the bike, the stronger & more responsive it became.

Can't do this yet..., but did you also drill the slider?
Instructions sure don't get any better than this.
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=41112

Looks like it could even be done without completely removing the carb :)

[Padmei]

No I didn't drill the slider cos I lost the drill bit somewhere. Def don't remove the carb as they're suposed to be buggers to get back onto the rubber sleeves. My throttle securing screw was really locktited on I rooted the head getting it off - had to use vicegrips. Also be careful with the diaphram - a bit of grease holds it in place.

[Woodman]

No I didn't drill the slider cos I lost the drill bit somewhere. Def don't remove the carb as they're suposed to be buggers to get back onto the rubber sleeves. My throttle securing screw was really locktited on I rooted the head getting it off - had to use vicegrips. Also be careful with the diaphram - a bit of grease holds it in place.

Drilled mine, can't remember wot size dill , but it was definitely bigger than the hole prior to drilling.

[Woodman]

Padmei, did gonzo use any oil on the trip to kaikoura and back? I used about 400 ml. Not sure of kms we did as I lost my speedo at Seddon (500ish)

I Used more on the way home because it was a faster trip in the dry than the wet slowish trip there, and zerax reckons he could see a bit of black smoke on de acceleration (spelling).
Black not generally oil but he reckons he caught the odd wiff too.

Might fashion a catch tank this week to see how much of it is breather related.

[Woodman]

As I mentioned in the previous post, my speedo stopped working. Pulled the drive unit apart this arvo and upon inspection it is um fcuked. The little drive washer thing has somehow managed to smash off bits of the hub > it must have siezed up, although there was plenty of grease in there.
Anyway, does anyone out there have either a front hub or complete wheel they no longer require? cos I really can't see any easy way to mend the one I have without welding and machining up some kind of insert. Shit Its times like this that I really miss not working in a machine shop.
Anyway pm or reply if you have one and how much.

Padmei did that tengai have wheels??

[Padmei]

Nah no wheels unfortunately otherwise I'd have a set of on road & off road tyres. I don't think it is a tengai now just a white & green model.
Bugger about the speedo. On the way back I was riding about 120-130+ on GPS & the poor lil speedo was whirring it's head off reading about 150ish. Don't know what's up with that - 10% reataradition or something.

Just checked the oil & I filled it to top of the sight glass above the max level mark & it is now sitting just under max level - maybe 3/4 the way up. Not sure how much oil that is but I expected it to use a bit due to constant high revving.

Forest ride again maybe next weekend?

[Padmei]

Forgot to add. I wouldn't bother about the speedo. I'd get a bike computer & fit that or a cool vapour dash thing with flashing LEDs & stuff. Tu meke KLR

[Squiggles]

i've got lots of bits for a KLR600...

[JATZ]

Forgot to add. I wouldn't bother about the speedo. I'd get a bike computer & fit that or a cool vapour dash thing with flashing LEDs & stuff. Tu meke KLR

What Padmei said........ get y'self a vapour, I'm liking mine now that it's all set up and working how it should :yes: The only problem I had with the bike speedo was it had no light so after dark it was rev counter only.

OOoooooo "forest ride" can I come, can I, can I, Pleeeeeease, I promise I won't embarrass you.
Might even take the spiders for a ride on the CT :D

[NordieBoy]

Got a Vapor still in it's box sitting on the wall of the shed not doing much...
Only thing it's got over the Acewell on the DR is the thermometer. Not enough of a plus to make me want to pull the Acewell and re-wire it all for the Vapor.

Nordies KLR parts Emporium.

[marks]

10% reataradition or something.

maybe the bike syncs with the rider?


I just replaced my cush drive rubbers - $70 - made a massive difference to the fore-aft freeplay of the sprocket even though the new one looked like the old one.

Also did this weekends ride with a 16t front sprocket - so nice on the road at 100-110 and 4th is a really nice overtaking gear. Well worth doing for longer roady rides

Also first ride with an E07 rear - what a great gravel tire - sildes very progressivly and fine on the twistys - even tolerableish in the Makiro slime .

[Woodman]

i've got lots of bits for a KLR600...

Do you know if the front wheels are the same as a 650?


Got a Vapor still in it's box sitting on the wall of the shed not doing much...
Only thing it's got over the Acewell on the DR is the thermometer. Not enough of a plus to make me want to pull the Acewell and re-wire it all for the Vapor.

Nordies KLR parts Emporium.

Does it have a temp gauge? and indicator lights etc?


Forgot to add. I wouldn't bother about the speedo. I'd get a bike computer & fit that or a cool vapour dash thing with flashing LEDs & stuff. Tu meke KLR

I had a look on the net before and they look pretty cool, and not that dare either.

[NordieBoy]

Does it have a temp gauge? and indicator lights etc?
Temp gauge but no indicators but they're cheap to get.

[Padmei]

I was thinking how good a 6th gear would be. I was continually shifting up from 5th & going nowhere. Started thinking maybe a 16 tooth would be good but then if you wanted to tootle off road the 1st & 2nd gears would be unusable

I think my cushdrive has gone too. Read somewhere about putting bits of mtb tube over existing ones.

E07s a re great tyres

[Woodman]

Temp gauge but no indicators but they're cheap to get.

HHmmmm May well be an option, I was sorta looking at them anyways.
KLR600 hubs are different so thats not an option, and any welding on the old hub is gonna pull the bearing hole outa shape, and an insert will mean that the bearing on that side will only be sitting on half its surface area so could cause issues later on.

I found cheapcycleparts.com brilliant. If you look under OEM parts they have exploded parts diagrams and part numbers and everything. Real good for researching. Pretty good pricing too and on gen KHI parts.

[Woodman]

I was thinking how good a 6th gear would be. I was continually shifting up from 5th & going nowhere. Started thinking maybe a 16 tooth would be good but then if you wanted to tootle off road the 1st & 2nd gears would be unusable

I think my cushdrive has gone too. Read somewhere about putting bits of mtb tube over existing ones.

E07s a re great tyres

Could you imagine getting going halfway up a firebreak like you did the other day with a 16 tooth??

[marks]

I was thinking how good a 6th gear would be. I was continually shifting up from 5th & going nowhere. Started thinking maybe a 16 tooth would be good but then if you wanted to tootle off road the 1st & 2nd gears would be unusable


Could you imagine getting going halfway up a firebreak like you did the other day with a 16 tooth??
1st is still fine in the tighter stuff (a tiny bit more clutch slip) but second becomes too big a jump but as I try and avoid lumpy stuff on my klr I can live with that. The gains on the open road are worth the trade off IMHO

[NordieBoy]

I was thinking how good a 6th gear would be. I was continually shifting up from 5th & going nowhere. Started thinking maybe a 16 tooth would be good but then if you wanted to tootle off road the 1st & 2nd gears would be unusable
I carry a 14t with me as well as the 15t on the bike.
5 min to swap over. I was going to do it at the start of the Clarence.



I think my cushdrive has gone too.
Yes it has. It starts off home about 1/4 of a wheel turn before you do.


E07s a re great tyres
Of the 4 bikes parked up at Tennyson 1 of the BMW's had them front and rear, the KTM had an E07 rear and I had one on the front.

[Woodman]

Ok back to the vapor thing. Did a bit of research and pricing etc today and i have a pretty good understanding of them now. Pricing from the manufacturers was pretty good but they want
US$101 for shipping.:angry: fcuk that, my intiminators cost $11 us and weigh about the same.????

Nordie? do you wanna sell yours, and does it have the water temp sender that i will need? PM if you want. Is it brand new?.

As you were.

[NordieBoy]

Ok back to the vapor thing. Did a bit of research and pricing etc today and i have a pretty good understanding of them now. Pricing from the manufacturers was pretty good but they want
US$101 for shipping.:angry: fcuk that, my intiminators cost $11 us and weigh about the same.????

Nordie? do you wanna sell yours, and does it have the water temp sender that i will need? PM if you want. Is it brand new?.

As you were.

Brand new 6 months ago. Opened the box, pulled it out and put it back in (the speedo you weirdo's). Never been on a bike.
Has a sparkplug temp sensor (replaces the sparky washer) but can be used as the washer on an oil banjo as well.
Wanting around $200 for it.

[pete376403]

Looking for a small(ish) radiator to replace the KLR one. Nothing wrong with the KLR rad apart from it seems to be too big, the motor never gets up to temperature, even with the bottom half covered over. A smaller rad, about the same height but half the width could be a bit less vulnerable. Any suggestions?

[marks]

Looking for a small(ish) radiator to replace the KLR one. Nothing wrong with the KLR rad apart from it seems to be too big, the motor never gets up to temperature, even with the bottom half covered over. A smaller rad, about the same height but half the width could be a bit less vulnerable. Any suggestions?

the thermobob kit will fix this problem Pete - you may need all that cooling capacity one day when you are stuck at the bottom of a gnarly hill or somesuch...

[Padmei]

Brand new 6 months ago. Opened the box, pulled it out and put it back in (the speedo you weirdo's). Never been on a bike.
Has a sparkplug temp sensor (replaces the sparky washer) but can be used as the washer on an oil banjo as well.
Wanting around $200 for it.

Why didn't you use it? couldn't you tune the banjo? a hahahaha that was really funny
Good thing about the vapour is it can be mounted closer to the bars allowing more vision over the front wheel. The existing instrument perch is quite forward

[NordieBoy]

Why didn't you use it? couldn't you tune the banjo? a hahahaha that was really funny
Good thing about the vapour is it can be mounted closer to the bars allowing more vision over the front wheel. The existing instrument perch is quite forward

Perfect pitch is when you can throw the banjo into the skip without it touching the sides.

I thought I'd love the temp thing but as no-one has managed to overheat a DR yet...
My Acewell has a larger screen and works well.

[JATZ]

I have a luuuurvly laser cut alloy bracket for the vapour if ya want it Wooooooodman

[Woodman]

I have a luuuurvly laser cut alloy bracket for the vapour if ya want it Wooooooodman

Cheers, I will probly get one soonish, but will have to put up with no speedo for now cos I'm saving dosh for a trip to Thailand in July and Mrs Woodman might not understand more motorcycle expenditure.
I took me gauges off yesterday and sussed out some mounting points etc and there is a blow by blow account with wiring diagrams of a klr install on the webby. Looks easyish. Mind you me and wiring have never had much success.

[Woodman]

Did the pcv mod and the low buck exhaust mod this arvo.
Haven't really been for a ride to see if there is any difference, but it is a wee bit louder now so that means it must be gruntier. I didn't have a hole saw so just cut the end off with a 1mm cutoff wheel, pulled all the shit out and migged it back on. The pipe was very sooty inside.

will be interesting to see if the pcv valve reduces my oil consumption issue. Will keep yous posted.

[marks]

Did the pcv mod and the low buck exhaust mod this arvo.
Haven't really been for a ride to see if there is any difference, but it is a wee bit louder now so that means it must be gruntier. I didn't have a hole saw so just cut the end off with a 1mm cutoff wheel, pulled all the shit out and migged it back on. The pipe was very sooty inside.

will be interesting to see if the pcv valve reduces my oil consumption issue. Will keep yous posted.

apparently the thermobob kit can help with oil consumption as it keeps the barrel at a consistent temperature

how much did your ims tank cost?

[Woodman]

apparently the thermobob kit can help with oil consumption as it keeps the barrel at a consistent temperature

how much did your ims tank cost?

About $600 nz landed when the exchange rate was shite. i will get a thermobob soonish cos my fan comes on a lot.
Actually having a klr can be a pain with all the farkles and mods that are around. I might make a list and post it somewhere.

[pete376403]

I've e-mailed watman about the freight cost of getting a thermobob shipped over. Could get two (or more sent at the same time)
The reasoning behing the t/b is very sound and he has the data to backup the theory. There is a longish thread on ADV about the oil consumption thing, barrels going out of round - possibly due to the large temperature swings - is given as a possibility. People are now complaining about 685s burning oil. (stands to reason as if the initial poor temperature control causes barrel distortion with the standard bore/liner thickness, it's going to be worse with a big bore/thinner liner. Answer is possibly the 705 liner bored to 685 diameter. And a thermobob.

[Woodman]

I've e-mailed watman about the freight cost of getting a thermobob shipped over. Could get two (or more sent at the same time)
The reasoning behing the t/b is very sound and he has the data to backup the theory. There is a longish thread on ADV about the oil consumption thing, barrels going out of round - possibly due to the large temperature swings - is given as a possibility. People are now complaining about 685s burning oil. (stands to reason as if the initial poor temperature control causes barrel distortion with the standard bore/liner thickness, it's going to be worse with a big bore/thinner liner. Answer is possibly the 705 liner bored to 685 diameter. And a thermobob.

Interesting Keep me posted on the thermobob. Will check that thread if I can find it

[pete376403]

Interesting Keep me posted on the thermobob. Will check that thread if I can find it



http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=432281

[warewolf]

I must say I find this all quite intriguing on such a rugged under-stressed relaxed old-skool supposedly well-proven engine.

[Padmei]

You having a go?

[Box'a'bits]

Hmmm .. 11 mins for a bite.....Must be the bikes are made to a budget. The owners seem to have to finish them.

[NordieBoy]

I must say I find this all quite intriguing on such a rugged under-stressed relaxed old-skool supposedly well-proven engine.

Straightened your rims yet?

[Padmei]

Hmm I went to browse a 640 thread - but hey everyone's selling or sold them? Gosh what's that all about?

Bashing KLRs are like shooting fish in a barrel - there's better game around than that.

[Woodman]

I must say I find this all quite intriguing on such a rugged under-stressed relaxed old-skool supposedly well-proven engine.

My theory is that they started building the engines first to get the military diesel contract because apparently the crank and top end is way over engineered, which it has to be to handle a diesel top end. Then a bean counter came along and told the designers that if they keep building the bike this well it will never sell to the public because they will cost $3000,000 each. Anyway the engineers told the bean counter that if he wants a bike to sell that he better build it himself. So he did and he started where the engineers left off, at the doohickey.
The rest is history.

[NordieBoy]

My theory is that they started building the engines first to get the military diesel contract because apparently the crank and top end is way over engineered, which it has to be to handle a diesel top end. Then a bean counter came along and told the designers that if they keep building the bike this well it will never sell to the public because they will cost $3000,000 each. Anyway the engineers told the bean counter that if he wants a bike to sell that he better build it himself. So he did and he started where the engineers left off, at the doohickey.
The rest is history.

Sooooo.....

The built the crank and top end and then ran out of money for the rest...

But shooting fish in a barrel is so much fun and easier than proper fishing :(

[warewolf]

You having a go?Not really. Is the problem really that bad? Or are people over-thinking it and over-engineering a solution? I mean, burning that much oil is a Ducati characteristic :shutup: - they've got lots of different solutions to it. Surely these things should go forever even with gross neglect. It's true, I read it on the interweb thingy. :yes:

But my, the fish are jumping into the boat tonight.


Must be the bikes are made to a budget. The owners seem to have to finish them.Thought that was a DR..."farkler's dream"? :scratch: KLRs supposedly have all the fruit.


Straightened your rims yet?My plan is to aim for rocks on the _other_ side. Haven't fixed the stand yet, either.


Hmm I went to browse a 640 thread - but hey everyone's selling or sold them? Gosh what's that all about?Sharing the wealth. Just as many fellahs raving about just having bought the best bike they've ever had?!


My theory ... cost $3000,000 Those b@stard bean counters!! That's why mine's got soft rims. :yes: I would a thought they'd've recouped their costs now that they've sold 3000,000 of the things??

[NordieBoy]

My plan is to aim for rocks on the _other_ side. Haven't fixed the stand yet, either.
Or the starter...

[Woodman]

Actually i just like fecking about with it in the shed. I think klrs super simpleness is why people do feck with them a lot which can cause issues.
The oil burning doesn't bother me too much really and there are theorys out there that they do find an optimal level and just stay there, but I do believe mine is getting worse.

[NordieBoy]

Actually i just like fecking about with it in the shed. I think klrs super simpleness is why people do feck with them a lot which can cause issues.
The oil burning doesn't bother me too much really and there are theorys out there that they do find an optimal level and just stay there, but I do believe mine is getting worse.

You're not just riding faster?

The simpleness is why DR owners seldom leave them stock either.
That and they are both cheap enough that you don't feel you have to buy the latest and greatest accessories because otherwise you'll de-value it.

[Woodman]

You're not just riding faster?

The simpleness is why DR owners seldom leave them stock either.
That and they are both cheap enough that you don't feel you have to buy the latest and greatest accessories because otherwise you'll de-value it.

have done more long tar rides than normal, which is where they traditionally burn more oil or blow it out the breather?

Not riding faster, can't be, don't crash nearly as much, although my lower crash rate started when I fitted the intimate maneaters.

[stormtrooper]

The old tried and tested 87 KLR still running smooth with 80,000 on the clock and no oil burn, i have been doing the general maintance that you would expect for a bike like this, but woundering if you guys know of any good mods and things to keep and eye on or replace as the ks get higher, have been doing some ruggered bush bashing with a standard front sprocket, feels abit long in the tooth anyone tried playing around with the gearing, would be interested to findout what works best on and off road.

STORMTROOPER

[pete376403]

Hey stormtrooper, have you replaced the doo in your motor yet? I'd like to see one out of a high km motor. I wonder if overtightening the retainer bolt when adjusting was one cause of the things breaking. Spring breakage is another issue, probably caused by vibration.

Going down a tooth on the front sprocket might make things a little easier off road, and possibly up a couple of teeth (17) for the road to drop the revs a bit http://members.cox.net/watt-man/Installinga17.htm

[Padmei]

Hey stormtrooper. I've run a 14 tooth for a while. Offroad it is very good & on road not too bad if you keep around 100ks. Any higher & it starts feeling like you need another gear.

I don't think there'd be much more to replace on an older bike than a newer one. Mine's 08 19K & replaced doo, several tyres, front sprocket, chain, wheel bearing - cush drive needs doing, also greased all rear end & steering head etc. Wonder how many ks you'll get out of the old beauty?

Woodman - Dunno about the oil burning thing. I don't mind topping up every month or so but after every ride could become a pita. What would be the next thing - carbon tipped barrels?

[pete376403]

Where did you get the 14t front? Wouldn't mind doing that for the CCA. Chain should be good for a bit longer (done 20,000k and still in good shape but I make sure I keep it clean and lubed). Other maint - have replaced head bearings (same set as a ZX12) and greased all the linkages a couple of times, front disk pads, 2 front and about 4 rear tyres, quite a lot of oil.
How did you stuff the wheel bearings and the cush rubber?

[Woodman]

Stormtrooper, I have run a 14 tooth. brilliant off road. On road a bit buzzy but ok, just don't look at the rev counter when riding hard. Good for wheelies too.

Things I have replaced because they broke: Fuel tank, rear brake bracket, doohickey spring, left mirror mount, choke lever,fairing,rear indicators, headlight x3, handguards,various levers, footpeg bolts. Need to get a new speedo cos the front hub munted itself last weekend(no drive). alloy bash plate.

Things i have replaced cos they wore out: 2 sets of wheel bearings. the rear one collapsed and munted the swingarm and sprocket hub thing. Couple sets brake pads. chain and sprockets, 4 rear and a couple of front tyres.

Things I got cos they were recommended. Intiminators (brilliant) DR footpegs. Vibranators. PCV mod Rear raising links.

There is more but they allude me at the moment

Edit. I have done 17000ks on it.

[Padmei]

Hang on we werern't mentioning broken bits- that's not fair i've got a few too
Footpeg bolts - def replace the crappy bolts if you haven't already - 4 mirrors at least, forgot about brake pads - just 1 set of fronts, rear indicators. Noticed my chain was rooted when 4 or 5 rollers had vanished off the chain.

Got my 14 tooth from a normal bike shop - about $30ish bucks?

[JATZ]

Stormtrooper, I have run a 14 tooth. brilliant off road. On road a bit buzzy but ok, just don't look at the rev counter when riding hard. Good for wheelies too.

Things I have replaced because they broke: Fuel tank, rear brake bracket, doohickey spring, left mirror mount, choke lever,fairing,rear indicators, headlight x3, handguards,various levers, footpeg bolts. Need to get a new speedo cos the front hub munted itself last weekend(no drive)

Things i have replaced cos they wore out: 2 sets of wheel bearings. the rear one collapsed and munted the swingarm and sprocket hub thing. Couple sets brake pads. chain and sprockets, 4 rear and a couple of front tyres.

Things I got cos they were recommended. Intiminators (brilliant) DR footpegs. Vibranators. PCV mod Rear raising links.

There is more but they allude me at the moment

Edit. I have done 17000ks on it.


Where did you get the 14t front? Wouldn't mind doing that for the CCA. Chain should be good for a bit longer (done 20,000k and still in good shape but I make sure I keep it clean and lubed). Other maint - have replaced head bearings (same set as a ZX12) and greased all the linkages a couple of times, front disk pads, 2 front and about 4 rear tyres, quite a lot of oil.
How did you stuff the wheel bearings and the cush rubber?


Hey stormtrooper. I've run a 14 tooth for a while. Offroad it is very good & on road not too bad if you keep around 100ks. Any higher & it starts feeling like you need another gear.

I don't think there'd be much more to replace on an older bike than a newer one. Mine's 08 19K & replaced doo, several tyres, front sprocket, chain, wheel bearing - cush drive needs doing, also greased all rear end & steering head etc. Wonder how many ks you'll get out of the old beauty?

Woodman - Dunno about the oil burning thing. I don't mind topping up every month or so but after every ride could become a pita. What would be the next thing - carbon tipped barrels?

y'know you lot, ya shoulda just got DR's instead.........:bleh:

wonder how these bikes will be in 20 odd years :scratch:

[Padmei]

There is absolutely nothing intersting on TV at the mo is there Jatz?


Why don't you get the family around for a rowsing game of Yatzee

[pete376403]

Of all the bits we've changed on our KLRs, none have ever looked (or cost) like this...

[JATZ]

There is absolutely nothing intersting on TV at the mo is there Jatz?


Why don't you get the family around for a rowsing game of Yatzee

Nah, not a yahtzee fan......much prefer a good game of "boggle" :yes:
and "twister" after the chitlins go to bed :shutup:

[JATZ]

Of all the bits we've changed on our KLRs, none have ever looked (or cost) like this...

bastard :D

[Woodman]

Vibratraining meateaters. Forgot to make up a stupid word.

[dino3310]

y'know you lot, ya shoulda just got DR's instead.........:bleh:

wonder how these bikes will be in 20 odd years :scratch:

and heres there chance, 20 yrs and a DR http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/120178-DRBig-for-Sale-a-reluctant-parting...?p=1129679804#post1129679804

[junkmanjoe]

dino mate..you could swap your xr for it......:shutup:

[Padmei]

and heres there chance, 20 yrs and a DR http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/120178-DRBig-for-Sale-a-reluctant-parting...?p=1129679804#post1129679804

Still for sale?

[stormtrooper]

y'know you lot, ya shoulda just got DR's instead.........:bleh:

wonder how these bikes will be in 20 odd years :scratch:

I think you must have hit the wrong button mate, this is the KLR thread nothing about drs in here.

STORMTROOPER

[NordieBoy]

Of all the bits we've changed on our KLRs, none have ever looked (or cost) like this...

But marks's's slipper clutch would come close in price....

[pete376403]

Yeah but thats a farkle, not a repair (unless he's broken it since I last saw him)

[stormtrooper]

[QUOTE=pete376403;1129679992]Hey stormtrooper, have you replaced the doo in your motor yet? I'd like to see one out of a high km motor. I wonder if overtightening the retainer bolt when adjusting was one cause of the things breaking. Spring breakage is another issue, probably caused by vibration.

Will be replacing with Eagle Doohickey (Balancer Idle Lever & Spring Upgrade) and will fit with torsion spring when i get a chance, i will post a pic up of the old one that comes out for you pete.
Sounds like the 14t is a very good option for the offroad nastys, will have to get my hands on one of these soon.
Cheers to all the guys for your thoughts and advice

STORMTROOPER

[warewolf]

Geez fellahs, those KLRs are fragile!!! :Pokey:

I've got twice those kays on my KTM, it's been down just as often, but it's still got the original levers, mirrors, indicators, footpegs, ... Had less bits added, and less bits replaced. :innocent:

Probably gone through more chains, sprockets & tyres though. :shutup:

[Woodman]

Geez fellahs, those KLRs are fragile!!! :Pokey:

I've got twice those kays on my KTM, it's been down just as often, but it's still got the original levers, mirrors, indicators, footpegs, ... Had less bits added, and less bits replaced. :innocent:

Probably gone through more chains, sprockets & tyres though. :shutup:

Weirdly my handlebars are still original.

[Padmei]

I bent my handlebars so spent a good couple of hours looking at them figuring how to bend them back, then trying to get them straight again. Been put off getting alloys as heard they break rather than bend. Alright for MXers but I'd rather be in the forest with bent bars than broken bars.

Apologies if this is starting to sound like a pissing contest:laugh:

[dino3310]

dino mate..you could swap your xr for it......:shutup:
well the XR would be a good swap now:yes:

Still for sale?
nope 9000klms between owners

I think you must have hit the wrong button mate, this is the KLR thread nothing about drs in here.

STORMTROOPER

i reckon mate tell him to shove off

[Padmei]

Geez just been reading about the probs with a few 685 kits on here (http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71713)
Talk about depressing.

Forgot to ask what the bike sounded like Woodman & what did you cover the hole with?

[Woodman]

Geez just been reading about the probs with a few 685 kits on here (http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71713)
Talk about depressing.

Forgot to ask what the bike sounded like Woodman & what did you cover the hole with?

Bugger all difference in noise really. The hole is just a bit bigger, and hasn't got the wee sticky out bit anr more. I didn't wanna go nuts in there cos I didn't want too loud or the muffler to get too hot and melt the plastics. I don't like loud bikes, unless its a classic racer with megaphone(s)

[warewolf]

Been put off getting alloys as heard they break rather than bend. Alright for MXers but I'd rather be in the forest with bent bars than broken bars.Alloys bars are a whole heap stronger than steel. You won't destroy them in a minor off, whereas steel bars bend like al dente pasta.

PS Still got the original alloy fat bars on my bike, too. :lol:

[NordieBoy]

I bent my handlebars so spent a good couple of hours looking at them figuring how to bend them back, then trying to get them straight again. Been put off getting alloys as heard they break rather than bend. Alright for MXers but I'd rather be in the forest with bent bars than broken bars.

I got a set of alloy fat bars off TM once.
They had a slight but noticable bend in them.
We stuck a steel pole in one end for leverage and couldn't get them to budge.

Alloy bars FTW.

[Eddieb]

except if your leg connects to the brs in an off with steel bars the bar will come off 2nd best, with alloy bars your leg will come off very 2nd best.

[JATZ]

I got a set of alloy fat bars off TM once.
Alloy bars FTW.

Are those the ones sitting in my shed ?
If they are then I'm happy to donate them to the cause, maybe then the KLR will have something decent on it :D
also need to donate to your bike fund too Nordie

[NordieBoy]

Nah, they're actually mini-bike bars. These were more like Padmei's with a noticable droop on one side but only when on the bike.

[Woodman]

Why is there such a fascination with klrs? even by non klrers

[veny]

Been wondering that myself..., with this good old catch up read.
Maybe because the KLR is more of an adventure bike and the others are trail bikes?

One thing's for sure..., colder weather is coming and I was amazed at how much toastier I felt on the KLR. Veeery good wind protection where it matters :)

[warewolf]

Why is there such a fascination with klrs? even by non klrersJust curious to see what u chaps are up to.

[Padmei]

One thing's for sure..., colder weather is coming and I was amazed at how much toastier I felt on the KLR. Veeery good wind protection where it matters :)

Oh yeah gotta agree with that. I have noticed tho that I prefer either having my huge roadking screen on or the lil enduro setup. The normal screen drives me crazy as the air hits right in my eyes.

[marks]

I don't know why but I find the idea of doing a conversion like this to be very interesting

sort of like a large DR but with character

http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd359/AKGUY1/IMG_0220.jpg

[Padmei]

Fcuk thats ugly. Looks like a XR had a drunken night with um... something big & white & plastic

[NordieBoy]

I don't know why but I find the idea of doing a conversion like this to be very interesting

sort of like a large DR but with character


Fcuk thats ugly. Looks like a XR had a drunken night with um... something big & white & plastic

Actually looks like my bike in different colours.

But even uglier.

Although I do have the purple/yellow seat on at the moment...

[Woodman]

I don't know why but I find the idea of doing a conversion like this to be very interesting

sort of like a large DR but with character

http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd359/AKGUY1/IMG_0220.jpg

Thought of putting a big headlight or 2 on mine and it would look a bit like that, but then the current one works fine and it would be only for looks and I really don't care too much about appearance really. On the other hand if I smash the fairing and light up again then who knows what may end up there.

[thepom]

What tires are they? I need to re shoe my africa twin so am looking for something a bit more than my mitas eo7,s ...something a bit more off roady? or maybe I should do the mitas..eo9 or whatever the chunkier ones are....

[marks]

What tires are they? I need to re shoe my africa twin so am looking for something a bit more than my mitas eo7,s ...something a bit more off roady? or maybe I should do the mitas..eo9 or whatever the chunkier ones are....

The KLR has Dunlop D606's on it - awesome tires but noisy and rears last 3000-3500k

[stormtrooper]

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/album.php?albumid=3374&attachmentid=200302

[stormtrooper]

Hey tried to add a pic but did not seem to work, bugger it was even more ugly than the first one

[NordieBoy]

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/album.php?albumid=3374&attachmentid=200302

Like this?

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=200302&d=1268467220

[Eddieb]

On the other hand if I smash the fairing and light up again then who knows what may end up there.

Your's is so close to that now, it's only a matter of time.....

[Woodman]

Your's is so close to that now, it's only a matter of time.....

Don't jinx it, Actually i quite like Nordies set up with the sv650? light and the givi screen.

[stormtrooper]

Like this?

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=200302&d=1268467220

Cheers for sorting it Nordieboy, how come it worked for you?

[NordieBoy]

Things that make you go hmmmm....
200700200701

[Eddieb]

Things that make you go hmmmm....
200700200701

A sheep in wolf's clothing.

[marks]

An elephant in wolf's clothing.

fixed&nbsp;

[GPS MAN]

Interesting ideas.......all it takes is MONEY!

[marks]

Interesting ideas.......all it takes is MONEY!

Hi Wade

Speaking of money - the link you asked for klr suspension is here (http://store.ricorshocks.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=42)

money well spent

[Padmei]

I found out tonite what the numbers mean on the side of tyres. They mean a Kenda 130/90/17 won't have a shitshow of fitting on a KLR rim without ripping out the subframe.

Nordie - you wanted?

[NordieBoy]

I found out tonite what the numbers mean on the side of tyres. They mean a Kenda 130/90/17 won't have a shitshow of fitting on a KLR rim without ripping out the subframe.

Nordie - you wanted?

Have you had an MT21 on it?
They're also 130/90/21.

[Padmei]

Maybe it's a 140? anyway too big

[JATZ]

Pump it up before you stick the rim back on the bike, 'bout 70 psi should do, then stick the bike in gear , with the back wheel off the ground of course, and "shave" the side knobs off with one of mothers good kitchen knives :D

Might pay to keep the sticky plasters handy too

[dino3310]

Pump it up before you stick the rim back on the bike, 'bout 70 psi should do, then stick the bike in gear , with the back wheel off the ground of course, and "shave" the side knobs off with one of mothers good kitchen knives :D

Might pay to keep the sticky plasters handy too

oh and dont forget to catch it all on dvd, something we gotta see :laugh:

[GPS MAN]

Hi Wade

Speaking of money - the link you asked for klr suspension is here (http://store.ricorshocks.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=42)

money well spent


Hey Mark

Well, I'm in the states at the moment..... I'll source those parts while here.....

Still looking at that 705 kit...Yum, Yum!!!

But, like you said..."I really don't want to make it a dirt bike"

Decisions - Decisions...

See you when I get back..

Hey, catching up with my buddy that rode the Paris Dakar in 2006 or 2007 can't remember...Boy, does he have some stories..

I'll post some pics of him and his bike....

Take Care

[Padmei]

Hmmmmm you're in the States..... Just wait till I surf some websites then I'll get back to you...

[marks]

Hey Mark

Well, I'm in the states at the moment..... I'll source those parts while here.....

Still looking at that 705 kit...Yum, Yum!!!

But, like you said..."I really don't want to make it a dirt bike"

Decisions - Decisions...

See you when I get back..

Hey, catching up with my buddy that rode the Paris Dakar in 2006 or 2007 can't remember...Boy, does he have some stories..

I'll post some pics of him and his bike....

Take Care

yes 705 has a cool ring to it - I understand its the most reliable too as some 685's warp the bore so a new liner seems the ideal

Its -wierd - I know the KLR is my 'all road' bike and I have a trail bike but I keep wanting to strip all the plastic shit off it and see where I can get it....

Take some photos of your rides as well


Hmmmmm you're in the States..... Just wait till I surf some websites then I'll get back to you...


actually Padmei - most of those girls come from the Phillipines - not the States

[pete376403]

But doesn't the cylinder head require a lot of work to feed the 705? So the cost goes up, and up, and before long you've spent so much that your bargain KLR now costs more than some Eurotrash.

If you're really paranoid about barrel distortion, a 705 sleeve bored for a 685 piston might be the answer, plus the thermobob to better regulate the engine temps

[marks]

But doesn't the cylinder head require a lot of work to feed the 705? So the cost goes up, and up, and before long you've spent so much that your bargain KLR now costs more than some Eurotrash.

If you're really paranoid about barrel distortion, a 705 sleeve bored for a 685 piston might be the answer, plus the thermobob to better regulate the engine temps

Are you aware you left something at the hut on Odlins Rd???

[pete376403]

Not that I recall, but that doesn't mean much, my memory is like a sieve these days. If it's something you think I should be missing (apart from my mind) please PM me

[NordieBoy]

Are you aware you left something at the hut on Odlins Rd???


Not that I recall, but that doesn't mean much, my memory is like a sieve these days. If it's something you think I should be missing (apart from my mind) please PM me

You know that cool "wind in the hair" feeling you had on the way home...

[Woodman]

But doesn't the cylinder head require a lot of work to feed the 705? So the cost goes up, and up, and before long you've spent so much that your bargain KLR now costs more than some Eurotrash.

If you're really paranoid about barrel distortion, a 705 sleeve bored for a 685 piston might be the answer, plus the thermobob to better regulate the engine temps

apparently there isn't a lot you can do to the head portwise as there is not a lot of room for error. 1mm oversize valves are available and there are a few cams that will help it breath but at the expense of fuel economy and rideability etc. Don't really need more grunt off road unless you are out riding it. Better to spend money on suspension. Actually better to spend time riding the bloody things.

[Padmei]

Thought I had better check the oil after reading about Creepers old bike.
Before last weekends 40km ride it was fine - just under max. Today it was just above min when hot. I noticed the motor was noisy going down the driveway to get the paper so thought I'd better check the level.
I wonder if having the bike on it's side made the oil disappear. Otherwise I guess it was keeping it at sustained higher revs that used it all.

Maybe I will try the PVC mod. Woodman may need your guidance on this.

[Woodman]

Thats very interesting cos I filled mine to just below the full line and then did the same ride as you, and the bike was sorta upside down for a while too and the next day it was below low. In frustratinon I drained the oil out and measured it. There was abot 1.5 litres came out and the engine is supposed to take 2.5. I then measured the oil into the motor gradually until it was exactly on the full line, and I hadn't even put in 2 litres yet. WTF? So I put in exactly 2,5 litres which according to the sight glass is overfull. Starting to wonder now if it is using as much as I thought and possibly the smaller amount of oil is heating up etc. Could also explain my overheating issue as oil plays a big part in cooling. We will see what happens.

PCV valve is easy Padmei, happy to help.

[pete376403]

Ordered a thermobob kit from Watt-man on Friday. Not expecting it to do a lot WRT oil use, but I'd like to see a bit of temperature on the guage other than when the thing is plugging hard in the dirt. Running as cool (cold) as it does, even with duct tape over half the radiator, can't be a good thing.

685 kit once the discretionary income reserve builds up a bit (could be a while...)

[pete376403]

Thats very interesting cos I filled mine to just below the full line and then did the same ride as you, and the bike was sorta upside down for a while too and the next day it was below low. In frustratinon I drained the oil out and measured it. There was abot 1.5 litres came out and the engine is supposed to take 2.5.

2.5 litres with a filter change as well?

[Padmei]

2.5 litres with a filter change as well?

That's what I understood. 2.3l without filter.

[Woodman]

2.5 litres with a filter change as well?

Even with a cartridge filter? The oil should not stay in the filter. I will check though.

[Woodman]

Ordered a thermobob kit from Watt-man on Friday. Not expecting it to do a lot WRT oil use, but I'd like to see a bit of temperature on the guage other than when the thing is plugging hard in the dirt. Running as cool (cold) as it does, even with duct tape over half the radiator, can't be a good thing.

685 kit once the discretionary income reserve builds up a bit (could be a while...)

Is your gauge working properly?

[warewolf]

You can't simply pour oil in to the crankcase and check the level. Usually it must be with the engine at operating temperature. This also distributes the oil within the engine. When you fill it, oil _may_ be pooled against the sight glass, giving a false-high reading, but running the engine spreads it around to give the correct reading. This is particularly important with dry sumps, multiple oil pumps and multiple chambers (filters, frame store, gearbox, etc etc).

[pete376403]

Is your gauge working properly?
Yeah it does show temps in snotty slow conditions where the engine is working hard nd there's less airflow though the rad. Fan comes on when the guage is at about 3/4 travel and it's pretty consistent at that. Just as soon as the load eases and speed gets up the temp just goes straight down

[Padmei]

Spannerman raised a good point re gauges on older bikes- if they're not there you don't worry so much. Maybe the gauge is calibrated funny where it doesn't show even temp rise & & fall.

I gave my bike a very good workout yesterday & it didn't rise past just over 1/2way. Like yours tho as soon as the terrain flattened out & a bit of speed got up it was low.

[veny]

Oil Fill Excercise...
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=77985

[Woodman]

Yeah it does show temps in snotty slow conditions where the engine is working hard nd there's less airflow though the rad. Fan comes on when the guage is at about 3/4 travel and it's pretty consistent at that. Just as soon as the load eases and speed gets up the temp just goes straight down

My gauge is the same, but my fan comes on a lot. Actually I accidentally bent the shroud round the fan which stopped it from going round and the gauge went higher than it had ever gone, so much so that I had to stop cos i was getting quite worried. BTW this was in traffic, it was a hot day but not that hot. On the open road it reads cold. I have checked and everything flows nice etc, but as long as the fan works its not a worry.

[Padmei]

Oil Fill Excercise...
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=77985

Intersting but WTF is the attraction to the oil cap? Fking Seppos or what?

[pete376403]

Have a look at Watt-mans site - he has the figures to back up the theory (of thermal cycling, overcooling, etc). The bypass hose concept has solid engineering behind it and the majority of automotive engines use this same idea (bit hard to call it technology, it's way more basic than that)
Check out http://members.cox.net/watt-man/TB%20Testing1.htm

I now from my own training and experience (automotive diesel mechanic with GGH) engines are supposed to run at a fairly constant temperature pretty much regardless of load and road speed.

[Woodman]

Intersting but WTF is the attraction to the oil cap? Fking Seppos or what?

Yep the ouil cap had me baffled too.

[NordieBoy]

Have a look at Watt-mans site - he has the figures to back up the theory (of thermal cycling, overcooling, etc). The bypass hose concept has solid engineering behind it and the majority of automotive engines use this same idea (bit hard to call it technology, it's way more basic than that)
Check out http://members.cox.net/watt-man/TB%20Testing1.htm

Good read.

[veny]

It is.

I've seen some wild temp swings here when playing out on the riverbed.
But behaves Ok on shingle roads.

It looks easy enough to install.
http://www.klrworld.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=193&Itemid=286

Where do we get one?

[pete376403]

Order directly from the maker - Bill Watt - watt-man@cox.net . My one cost $US133, including shipping, with a spare thermostat.

[pete376403]

Thermobob arrived today. Kit is totally complete, right down to a cable tie. No decal, though - that might put some people off. Machining on the thermostat housing is superb - apparently done by Eagle Mike. Will put it on as soon as I get a chance.

[veny]

Thermobob arrived today. Kit is totally complete, right down to a cable tie. No decal, though - that might put some people off. Machining on the thermostat housing is superb - apparently done by Eagle Mike. Will put it on as soon as I get a chance.

No reply to my email from ThermoBob. You must be special :)
Let us know how it performs.

[pete376403]

In an e-mail he sent just before sending the parts he mentioned he was going away for a vacation, don't know how long.
Hope to put the thermobob on tomorrow

[Padmei]

I don't know about that tbob thing.My engine doesn'tlook anything like those diagrams.Do you think he painted his engine those colours or it was a factory custom:scratch:

[pete376403]

Installed this afternoon. Quite straight forward, took longer to get all the plastic, fuel tank, and expansion tank bracket off than it did to fit the t'bob. There are very detailed instructions on Watt-mans web site (note included with the kit gives URLs). Not a lot of room up around the top of the fan so it would pay to follow the instructions. Will put all the bodywork back on tomorrow and see how it works.
The cable tie is to stop it touching the fan when things are bouncing around. Could make a metal bracket but cable ties are lighter.
Also took out the smog valve and hoses while in there.

[Padmei]

Looks like a nice piece of equipment. What did it cost landed? Forget that just read the above post.

Also what's the cheapest place to but front pads locally? 08's are diff from earlier ones.

Damn that rekluse clutch looks good too

[pete376403]

Got a set of pads from Supercheap - $45 IIRC - they are Yamaha XV or summat. Take the old pads to the shop to compare. The Yamaha has left and right calipers so you need to get the correct side. (which is why you can't fit the KLR rear pads to the front caliper in an emergency - the front is a lefty, the rear is right)

[pete376403]

Thermobob tested - works perfectly. Starting from cold and without any sort of warm up, temperature guage needle was just under halfway after 4km at 50 km/hr this afternoon. The motor has never warmed up like that before. Needle never budged from that position even after a 5k run at 100 - 110 km/hr. I was running without the side covers so easy to lean down and touch the radiator, at 100 the top tank is too hot to touch yet the bottom of the rad is cold, demonstrating how well this radiator cools water. Without the t'bob that cold water would be going straight into the the bottom of the water jacket - that difference in temps can't be good for the engine.

WIll be checking out if this has any effect on the oil usage at exended fast-ish (5k +rpms) runs

[veny]

In an e-mail he sent just before sending the parts he mentioned he was going away for a vacation, don't know how long.

Riding bikes in Death Valley, apparently.
But family still sending kits out.

Ordered :)

[dino3310]

something that maybe of interest http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/122168-Steinel-auto-plastics-repair-kit.?p=1129724126#post1129724126

[veny]

something that maybe of interest http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/122168-Steinel-auto-plastics-repair-kit.?p=1129724126#post1129724126
Hey, thanks for the link :)
The plastic fantastic flexed ok when it went down before the crashbars, (wish I could say the same for myself). But if they do break, then I would certainly be interested in restoring the aerodynamics of the bike.
Prob just get some cheap after market replacements tho.