KLR riders out there

[pete376403]

Errr - no-one does "cheap aftermarket replacements" for '08 and later. Side covers are (IIRC) about $250 from Kawasaki and decals another $180. I haven't priced any of the other bits but sure to be equally as pricey. There's bugger all on E-bay, either.

If I could get hold of some good panels I'd have a go at making moulds from them, then make fibreglass repilcas. Currently the right lower panel on my bike is about 50/50 duct tape / plastic

[veny]

Was thinking quite a few years ahead. Based on the small statistical probability of my own breaking with the style of riding I do. But yeah, if other people need them now then Kwaka is it. $250 is not that much in the big scheme of things. Compared to say, rego :shit:
If you could stamp them out for half the price or less, you could be onto a nice little earner. Make'em cheap enough and DR/XR owners might even want to fit them. :shutup:

[Padmei]

I see a few KLRs on the road & have to look in awe how clean & shiny & unbroken they are.

They don't know what they're missing....

[Eddieb]

Yep, I see a red one going the other way mornings and it looks like you could eat your breakfast off it. I always think 'What a waste'.

[JATZ]

Yep, I see a red one going the other way mornings and it looks like you could eat your breakfast off it. I always think 'What a waste'........

of rego, he coulda got something decent to ride :shutup:

Sorry, I just couldn't resist :D

[pete376403]

I see a few KLRs on the road & have to look in awe how clean & shiny & unbroken they are...

Mine was like that for nearly a month - first drop, in relatively soft dirt - broke the bottom mounting boss out of the side panel. It looks pretty second hand now.

[Padmei]

of rego, he coulda got something decent to ride :shutup:

Sorry, I just couldn't resist :D

Had to read that twice to get it. nice one:yes:

Hows your suzuklr?:innocent:

[NordieBoy]

They don't know what they're missing....

Whereas you know exactly what's missing :Punk:




Shiney patch means something's fallen off...

[Crim]

Errr - no-one does "cheap aftermarket replacements" for '08 and later. Side covers are (IIRC) about $250 from Kawasaki and decals another $180. I haven't priced any of the other bits but sure to be equally as pricey. There's bugger all on E-bay, either.

If I could get hold of some good panels I'd have a go at making moulds from them, then make fibreglass repilcas. Currently the right lower panel on my bike is about 50/50 duct tape / plastic

Duct tape and cable ties - until you need to sell, the way to go I reckon!

[Crim]

Yep, I see a red one going the other way mornings and it looks like you could eat your breakfast off it. I always think 'What a waste'.

I have looked at bikes like that (and the old Remuera tractors on Kindy run) and thought.......................there must be a business opportunity for spray on designer mud so they can at least look the part!

[cooneyr]

Few years ago I saw some form of bagged dirt/mud that you could splash on. Bloody rediculous.

[Padmei]

Wanted a mate to put a bit of glass on the rear of the plastic panels so I can bog the front. He ended up plastic welding it & formed a curved edge at the front of a panel where an edge had chipped off. I'll post some pics when I can be assed. Be interesting to see if the end result will look presentable or not. Something new to try...

[veny]

Few years ago I saw some form of bagged dirt/mud that you could splash on. Bloody rediculous.
Could be interested in that stuff. What flavour mud?
That dry acidy Waimak stuff, dusty Banks Peninsula gravel or actual blobs of cow pattie?
How long does it last? :lol:


Yep, I see a red one going the other way mornings and it looks like you could eat your breakfast off it. I always think 'What a waste'.
Hey, at least it didn't have cobwebs growing from the wheels to the ground.

In the end a bike's a bike and a rider is a rider.
We all share the same enjoyment..., whether that be a quiet putt on a sunny day or a full on climb up cnut hill.

Now, back to KLR topics please.

[NordieBoy]

Hey, at least it didn't have cobwebs growing from the wheels to the ground.
Who needs cobwebs?
http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/slides/20090208-084038-000004.jpg

[Padmei]

Has anyone got a low profile sump bolt? I'm thinking a mushroom head looking thing. The existing is an M17 with 1.5mm thread.
Tring to find one but no luck.
My one sits lower than the bash plate & has a few dents from rocks.

[warewolf]

Hit some more rocks until the problem fixes itself.

Or, after you are finished removing your chicken strips, take the grinder to the bolt head too.

[pete376403]

I've been looking as well, trying various fastener suppliers in Wgtn, so far nothing. Mushroom head with internal hex would be good.
If I find anything I'll get a few.

[Padmei]

I've been looking as well, trying various fastener suppliers in Wgtn, so far nothing. Mushroom head with internal hex would be good.
If I find anything I'll get a few.

I thought the idea was that you didn't need more than one???:mellow:

What about the washer underneath - is that a special thing?- it doesn't seem to come off

[pete376403]

I meant I was going to corner the market and sell them with 1000% markup.
Or perhaps I was thinking that wholesalers might have minimum quantities, in which case I would pass them on to other KLRistas at cost. Or something.

The crush washer should be replaced after its been used a few times. If you're totally anal you'd replace it at each oil change

[JATZ]

Has anyone got a low profile sump bolt? I'm thinking a mushroom head looking thing. The existing is an M17 with 1.5mm thread.
Tring to find one but no luck.
My one sits lower than the bash plate & has a few dents from rocks.

If I remember I could have a look @ work for something that may suit, we got all sorts of stuff that may fit, might be able to manufacture somthing even. About the same thread as a CJ7 spark plug aren't they ?

[Woodman]

Was looking at mine and worrying about that too. Possibly build up the bash plate if no appropriate sump bungs available.

On a cool note, I just realised today that Mrs Woodmans initials are.. wait for it.... K . AL . R. How cool is that.

[NordieBoy]

KLE400 sump bungs are the same thread as a late(ish) model jap car rear drum brake wheel stud :D

http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20080105%20Dusty%20Butt%201000%20-%202%20Day/Aaron's%20shots/slides/042.jpg

[Padmei]

:confused: Talk about information overload

[JATZ]

KLE400 sump bungs are the same thread as a late(ish) model jap car rear drum brake wheel stud :D

Wonder if Cristian ever put an original one back in ? Suppose it 's better than a wooden plug :D

[NordieBoy]

Wonder if Cristian ever put an original one back in ? Suppose it 's better than a wooden plug :D

Nothing wrong with good old kiwi wood :D
http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20080105%20Dusty%20Butt%201000%20-%202%20Day/Aaron's%20shots/slides/044.jpg

[GPS MAN]

Wow! What a lot of info.....I think I will keep an eye on mine....

[Crim]

G'day - I have talked about this before but have decided it needs to be done now ( '05 with 31k ) - I am not sure if it is running rougher or just seems rougher now I have decided to do the Doohickey! Anyway anyone got advice on where I can obtain the neccesary parts / tools here or do I need to order (eagle mike) out of the states.
Cheers Crim

[Woodman]

Its not too hard to do the doo, took me an afternoon and that is with making the tools to do it. I am pretty sure Padmei has the gear, so you are welcome to borrow them if he can find them.

Actually I may have the torsion spring doohikey in the shed from some mix up somewhere along the line, I fitted the normal one cos I broke the drill bit when I was drilling the hole to fit it.

[Padmei]

yep ive got the tools. I didn't do my doo myself but have pulled the rotor off after a screw fell behind it during a valve check & it isn't too hard if you follow the manual closely.
I am coming down to chch early aug & can deliver the rotor puller down or PM your address & I'llpost them. You may as well use woodmans torsion spring as it will save you $20.

The only thing I'd recommend you do while you're in there is study how the cam chain adjustor works.

I can't remember who I got the parts from however make sure they are eagle mike as the first lot I got from klr650.com were studebaker which are a ripoff brand. I think I used TPI in Canada. They however sent the stuff via Ausralia.

Quite saisfying getting in there &messing around I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

[Crim]

Thanks guys - it was actually the dusty butt round your neck of the woods that got me thinking ".............. bout time........" will order parts online and see you in early August Padmei - if the parts get here before then - you never know! I may get too impatient and PM my address. I can't wait - there are some good videos online running you through the whole process and doesn't look too scary - touch wood (or a Nordie patented sump plug) I don't hit a snag
'nother question now that I have done some searching (hindsight 20/20 per normal) - gaskets and rotor bolt order new?

[Padmei]

No need for new gaskets or rotor bolt if you're careful they'll be fine.
Apparently heading down to hamner way 16th July so bro inlaw can take tools down to chch.

[RedKLR650]

Thanks guys - it was actually the dusty butt round your neck of the woods that got me thinking ".............. bout time........" will order parts online and see you in early August Padmei - if the parts get here before then - you never know! I may get too impatient and PM my address. I can't wait - there are some good videos online running you through the whole process and doesn't look too scary - touch wood (or a Nordie patented sump plug) I don't hit a snag
'nother question now that I have done some searching (hindsight 20/20 per normal) - gaskets and rotor bolt order new?

Hi Crim,

I'm based in Timaru and have the Doohickey Kit and Tools and am about to do the upgrade but I am also just about to order the more powerful aftermarket Lighting Stator ( Thing that generates power for the Battery ) from the states as it's inside the casing you have to take off to do the doohickey so figure I may as well change it at the same time :-)

Anyway, I'm Timaru based but am currently 11 days into a 90 day Demerit Point suspension so it's a good time to do the work, but I am unable to travel to Chch with the bike. If however you want to travel down here, it may be useful for us to work on the 2 bikes at the same time and I also have the tools etc. Give me a buzz on 0 3 688 5050 or 0274 342 372

Just an idea......

cheers, Stu

[Crim]

No need for new gaskets or rotor bolt if you're careful they'll be fine.
Apparently heading down to hamner way 16th July so bro inlaw can take tools down to chch.
G'day Padmei,
Thanks for the offer - been in contact with Stu out of Timaru, he has the tools so we are going to get the Doos and have a workshop day in Timaru - at least it will give me a decent before and after ride to compare differences - I will make sure we get photos of both set ups when we get into them
Cheers Crim

[Woodman]

It will be interesting to see whether your guys doos are broken or not. my lever was fine but the spring was broken and flopping around in there.

just holler if you want the torsion spring.

[Crim]

It will be interesting to see whether your guys doos are broken or not. my lever was fine but the spring was broken and flopping around in there.

just holler if you want the torsion spring.

be jasus that was quick - was going to give you a holler and see if you still had that floating around, as we were both thinking of putting the torsion springs in as well - why didn't you put yours in?

[Woodman]

be jasus that was quick - was going to give you a holler and see if you still had that floating around, as we were both thinking of putting the torsion springs in as well - why didn't you put yours in?

You have to drill a hole in the case for one end of the spring to go in, and the drill bit broke off and is still in there so I put the other one on instead.
Man that drill bit sure makes the bike heavy in the gnarly stuff.

I will get it out this weekend and get it to Padmei before he goes to Hamner, or I can send it. You choose.

[Padmei]

You have to drill a hole in the case for one end of the spring to go in, and the drill bit broke off and is still in there so I put the other one on instead.
Man that drill bit sure makes the bike heavy in the gnarly stuff.

I will get it out this weekend and get it to Padmei before he goes to Hamner, or I can send it. You choose.

I think it'll be stuffed by now woodman. He can surely afford a new drill bit???

[Woodman]

I think it'll be stuffed by now woodman. He can surely afford a new drill bit???

I was just about to edit that just in case in someone misread it and thought I was referring to the drillbit and not the spring.

But for claritys sake, I will get the torsion spring out and get it to Padmei yada yada yada

[RedKLR650]

It will be interesting to see whether your guys doos are broken or not. my lever was fine but the spring was broken and flopping around in there

I'll be sure to post photos of both. I'm curious myself, 36,000 hard kms on the clock for mine now.....

[Woodman]

I'll be sure to post photos of both. I'm curious myself, 36,000 hard kms on the clock for mine now.....

Done mine after about 26,000kms of gentle riding.

Certainly quitened it down.

[pete376403]

Another thing for us '08 & '09ers to worry about - the hole that the starter idler gear shaft goes into, in the outer engine cover, is too deep in some engines. If the shaft moves too deep into the outer cover, it becomes unsupported in the inner cover (which is bad) and it can let shim washers drop out (which could be very bad). It's a cheap and easy fix (pull the cover, drop a spacer into the too deep hole, refit the cover) but worth doing as the early '08s are out of warranty and it has the potential to grenade the motor. I read about this here http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67886 and will be checking my bike tomorrow.

[Padmei]

Interesting. I had to read about 11 bloody pages until Wattman put a diagram up. As you said pete an easy fix for a potential blow up.

Here's the problem Post #158
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67886&page=11

Eaglemike is making 10mm spacers about 10mm deep & selling them (really - no joke)

[Woodman]

I think they need to adopt a random drug testing policy in the klr factory.

[dino3310]

I think they need to adopt a random drug testing policy in the klr factory.

either that or you fellas should start smoking more :rofl:

[Padmei]

either that or you fellas should start smoking more :rofl:



We burn oil not smoke it baby:doobey:

[Woodman]

either that or you fellas should start smoking more :rofl:


Then we might start believing that our klrs really are factory prepared mx bikes all the time instead of just occaisionally when we are out riding alone.

[Moki]

...about to do the upgrade

Geez, you southerners take your time. You had that doo off me over a year ago!

Recommend you go with a torsion spring

[RedKLR650]

Geez, you southerners take your time. You had that doo off me over a year ago!

Recommend you go with a torsion spring

Hi Moki,

yep, it's been one of those years, been busy riding the bike rather than farkling...... but due to a police imposed non riding-driving period for the months June/July/August, it's now the perfect time to do all the serious mods

You've obviously done more research on the subject so why do you suggest the trosion spring rather than the regular ones ? Both just as likely to break as the other according to my engineering friends......

Cheers, Stu

[pete376403]

Just come in from the shed - pulled the alternator cover off and my bike (build date 04/07) is one of the deep hole models. It could be quite nasty if the shaft moves right to the bottom of the hole in the outer cover (and there is nothing to stop it moving, either) - theres nothing left to hold the inner cover side thrust washer in place except the oil film. It could go down and stick to the alternator rotor magnets (if you're lucky) or it could get into the cam or balancer chains (less lucky). After that who knows what shit it could do. Worth checking.
I'm going to bring it up with Motorad and see what the position is with regard to warranty, but I wouldn't hold much hope.

[marks]

Just come in from the shed - pulled the alternator cover off and my bike (build date 04/07) is one of the deep hole models. It could be quite nasty if the shaft moves right to the bottom of the hole in the outer cover (and there is nothing to stop it moving, either) - theres nothing left to hold the inner cover side thrust washer in place except the oil film. It could go down and stick to the alternator rotor magnets (if you're lucky) or it could get into the cam or balancer chains (less lucky). After that who knows what shit it could do. Worth checking.
I'm going to bring it up with Motorad and see what the position is with regard to warranty, but I wouldn't hold much hope.

is there anything tricky involved in pulling the cover off?

[Padmei]

is there anything tricky involved in pulling the cover off?

Nup easy as pie. You can tip your bike over if you can't be arsed draining the oil.

[pete376403]

Drain the oil, or tip the bike on its right side. Remove the gearlever, remove about 8 bolts securing the cover. I removed the sprocket cover (3 bolts) but you may not need to. The rotor magnet will pull the alternator coil inside the cover back in so it takes a wee bit of levering (there are tabs on the cover to get something behind, don't stick blades into the gasket face and cause future leaks) . If you are careful you should get it off without damaging the gasket. There should be four thrust washers (2 per idler gear, one each side). The top shaft doesn't have the problem, the bottom shaft does.

Wattman (of Thermobob fame) has been collating VIN numbers from contributors to KLR650.net. At present it's looking like ALL '08s and about 4000 '09s are affected - about 20,000 bikes.

[Moki]

...
You've obviously done more research on the subject so why do you suggest the trosion spring rather than the regular ones ? Both just as likely to break as the other according to my engineering friends......

Hey Stu,

I'm not an engineer, but the Torsion spring certainly seems to be a better application that keeps a pretty good pull on through the full range of adjustment. Quiets the motor down for some reason as well. Talking about springs, I also recommend the intiminators :)

Karl

[RedKLR650]

Hey Stu,

I'm not an engineer, but the Torsion spring certainly seems to be a better application that keeps a pretty good pull on through the full range of adjustment. Quiets the motor down for some reason as well. Talking about springs, I also recommend the intiminators :)

Karl

Hi Karl, thanks for the update, and with regards to the intiminators, do you have the website where you sourced them from ?

Cheers, Stu

[Moki]

http://www.intiminators.com/ Late last year they were 50% off if you entered KLR650 into the coupon code field. Might have the same thing still going.

-karl

[Padmei]

DId the starter gear check this morning.
1. Tip bike over so don't have to drain oil 200kms old.
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/newcameratryout021.jpg

2. Take out 10 bolts - NOT the dooickey adjustment bolt - & gently pull cover off looking out for gasket. What we are looking at is the second gear down. This can be easily pulled out & see if there is any damage to the shaft housing on the engine side. Mine was perfectly fine. There is a washer on the engine side so don't let that drop off.
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/newcameratryout022.jpg


3. I cut 9mm off a 10mm high tensile bolt to use as a spacer & dropped it into the deep hole with a dab of grease to hold it in while the cover is fitted. The spacer stops the starter shaft from moving across into the deep hole & dropping out of the engine side causing a clusterf**k
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/newcameratryout023.jpg


Let the nurse carefully scrap the silicon crap from the cover & case surface left over from the last time I opened it up- won't be doing that again.

Let the oil drain back down to the bottom of the engine & started it up. - no bad sounds so all seems good.
It should have only taken me 1/2 hr but getting the silicon crap off took about an extra 1/2 hr :rolleyes:

pretty easy really.

[marks]

thanks for the pictorial Padmei

Did you get sick of green or did you secretly want a tenere?

[Padmei]

thanks for the pictorial Padmei

Did you get sick of green or did you secretly want a tenere?

Bit of both really. All the panels were scratched or broken & MRS Jatz' Tenere is the coolest bike around so thought I'd copy it. Any scratches from now on can be touched up really easily. Had a few strange looks from passing riders trying to work out what model yammy it is:lol:

I'm not keen on dropping it now tho- I may however not have a say in it

[Squiggles]

Two Bros muffler (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Exhaust/auction-298989864.htm)

[NordieBoy]

Did you get sick of green or did you secretly want a tenere?

It was a secret?

:lol:


Any scratches from now on can be touched up really easily. Had a few strange looks from passing riders trying to work out what model yammy it is:lol:

I'm not keen on dropping it now tho- I may however not have a say in it

It wasn't 'till you were passing me that I recognised it/you :D

Should be good tomorrow then. Dropping it in the snow should be sweet.

[pete376403]

Did the deep hole fix today - a .375 ball bearing is perfect. Oil film was enough to hold it in the hole and there's .020 clearance (+ gasket thickness) between it the ball and the shaft when assembled.
That was the cheap fix. The more expensive fix will be new chain and front sprocket (only lasted 20,000k). Will go down a tooth at the front, do aftermarket sprockets have the rubber damping rings like the standard part? Does it make a difference?
Anyone done anything in the way of rebuilds with the standard rear shock?

[Woodman]

Did the deep hole fix today - a .375 ball bearing is perfect. Oil film was enough to hold it in the hole and there's .020 clearance (+ gasket thickness) between it the ball and the shaft when assembled.
That was the cheap fix. The more expensive fix will be new chain and front sprocket (only lasted 20,000k). Will go down a tooth at the front, do aftermarket sprockets have the rubber damping rings like the standard part? Does it make a difference?
Anyone done anything in the way of rebuilds with the standard rear shock?

My after market sprockets do not have the rubbery bit and work fine, no difference that I have noticed.

[Padmei]

After doing the 14 tooth thing with the front sprocket I have gone back to the 15 & use the clutch a lot more. The 14 is just a bit too buzzy on the road - ok for short bursts but long trips...
I hear you with the front sprocket & chain. I don't know how experienced you are at changing chains but mine now has 3 joiner links in it after trying to get it on thefirst time. Definitely something I won't have a problem taking to the shop to do next time.
My 14 didn't have the rubber damping ring & don't really know why they're there.

Rebuild your rear shock? Just get a Ricor or moab - prob better & cheaper in the long run.

[Woodman]

Just remembered, I got my rear shock re gassed a while ago. Not really sure if it made any difference or not, but am happy with the rears performance really.

[pete376403]

This is one of the items I saw about shock rebuilding - http://calgarydualsport.tripod.com/klr650shock/procedure.html
The seal head I have seen listed at one of the off road accessory places in NZ - will try to locate, previously advertised on KB http://www.bits4bikes.co.nz/parts/kawasaki/1904.aspx?terms=seal+head
and one other shock rebuild article added a remote reservoir from a polaris ATV

[Howie]

Did the deep hole fix today - a .375 ball bearing is perfect. Oil film was enough to hold it in the hole and there's .020 clearance (+ gasket thickness) between it the ball and the shaft when assembled.
That was the cheap fix. The more expensive fix will be new chain and front sprocket (only lasted 20,000k). Will go down a tooth at the front, do aftermarket sprockets have the rubber damping rings like the standard part? Does it make a difference?

Hi Pete, I replaced my front sprocket with an aftermarket one (no rubber damping ring)at about 21000km. I didn't bother changing the chain or rear sprocket. The front sprocket was showing a large amount of wear, yet the back was fine. The chain didn't have any tight spots in, and hadn't needed much in the way of adjustment, I'm now at about 28000km, and they are all still fine although I am keeping more of an eye on the chain. The rubber ring is only there to reduce chain noise from the research I did on the net.

[marks]

Did the deep hole fix today - a .375 ball bearing is perfect. Oil film was enough to hold it in the hole and there's .020 clearance (+ gasket thickness) between it the ball and the shaft when assembled.

errr - whats the deep hole fix?
sounds like something a dr rider would do after his boyfreind got a bit carried away.

Pete - I'm running a 16T on the front and am very happy with it - makes a big difference at 110-120.

My chain and sprockets lasted about 21000 - seems about average.

[pete376403]

Deep hole fix - dropping something of suitable size into the hole that is too deep in the generator cover as per Padmeis post and pictures.

Whats the VIN number of your bike (last five digits) - it looks like all '08s have the problem and about 4000 of the first '09s. VINs restarted for the '08s at 00001 (mine is 01831) and continued into the '09s at about 18000. The problem appears to have been rectified by the factory at around VIN21000 with a different part number generator cover.

[marks]

Deep hole fix - dropping something of suitable size into the hole that is too deep in the generator cover as per Padmeis post and pictures.

Whats the VIN number of your bike (last five digits) - it looks like all '08s have the problem and about 4000 of the first '09s. VINs restarted for the '08s at 00001 (mine is 01831) and continued into the '09s at about 18000. The problem appears to have been rectified by the factory at around VIN21000 with a different part number generator cover.

looks like I have a problem with a 'deep hole' (you confused me by talking about shocks in the same thread)
I'm in the affected range (16112) so I spose I'd better have a look

[Padmei]

Picked up the R1 pipes from Filco today. Tried one on the KLR & sounds superb. It's not very loud at idle but has a nice lower note, when the revs get up there's no poot poot like the stock. Also about 20kilos lighter than the stock. A few brackets welded on & a bit of pipe work & it'll be sitting pretty. I'll prob use the other one on the BMW. Not bad for $175 for both.

[pete376403]

What model R1? Is this a standard R1 can or an aftermarket one? Have much trouble matching it up to the KLR header?

[Woodman]

Picked up the R1 pipes from Filco today. Tried one on the KLR & sounds superb. It's not very loud at idle but has a nice lower note, when the revs get up there's no poot poot like the stock. Also about 20kilos lighter than the stock. A few brackets welded on & a bit of pipe work & it'll be sitting pretty. I'll prob use the other one on the BMW. Not bad for $175 for both.

I knew you wouldn't be able to resist.

[Padmei]

What model R1? Is this a standard R1 can or an aftermarket one? Have much trouble matching it up to the KLR header?

A standard can- I'm not sure what year . Someone got a flash set put on & left these ones at the bike shop. They will need a couple of brackets welded onto them to fit the mounting holes & some pipe welded & bent a bit to fit to the header but I've got a mate who's an exhaust specialist that needs some wiring done ina few weeks so it will be a cheap fix.
If I didn't have welding contacts (no pun intended) I wouldn't have bothered but they look very nice & sound really really nice. Not Ear bleeders like Marks Jardines.


I knew you wouldn't be able to resist.

Bloody Chae the bastard - he knew as soon as I saw them I'd be taking them.

[Padmei]

Here's a pic of the cans. I swear the stocker must be 20kilos - unbelievably heavy in comparison. I had to slide the new one on again & start the bike up before work just to hear the beautiful sound

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/GSPDR1pipes008.jpg

[Willdat?]

That's really going to suit Gonzo well...even more Yamaha in it's DNA!

[pete376403]

Standard muffler is reportedly 5 - 6 kilos. I've read of a modification where the lower portion was opened up, the maze of baffling replaced by a straight pipe and then the original cover fitted back over. Necessary in places where keeping a stock (looking) exhaust is mandatory. Cutting out the end plate with its tiny little exit hole and putting an end cap with bigger hole is supposed to help as well

[GPS MAN]

looks like I have a problem with a 'deep hole' (you confused me by talking about shocks in the same thread)
I'm in the affected range (16112) so I spose I'd better have a look

Hey Mark....I had a look at mine today...Yep:shit:I got the deep hole issue..found an old spacer in my GPS gear that work beautifully:sunny:

Good Luck:scooter:

[pete376403]

Watt-man (of thermobob fame) on klr650.net is collating VIN numbers. If you are a member of KLR650.net, PM watt-man with the VIN number. Or you could let me know the VIN and I'll forward it. He is collecting the info with a view to getting Kawasaki to do something.
I've e-mailed Lyntec about it and got this-
"I can honestly say we have never heard of any problems in this area and there has been definitely no recalls or even service information bulletins.
Reading these postings it appears there have been no actual failures so I wonder if it is a case of people over analysing the situation.
It appears from one of the posts that KHI have changed the depth of the hole on the later part.
There is no side thrust so there would be no reason to expect wear that would lead to major damage.
Normally in a case where KHI is aware of the possibility of a future problem they would issue a FAR, Factory Authorised Repair, which would allow a warranty repair on an occurrence basis even if outside the warranty period.
I will do some checking with my counterparts in USA and Australia and see what they know of this issue and will send the link to KHI and ask for their position on this."

[Padmei]

After the whole oil burner thing I don't think anyone expects KHI to front up with anything. I told my salesman at the local Kawasaki dealer the other day - his personal bike is a KLR. He was unaware of the problem & hadn't heard anything from Kawa NZ about it - he usually gets all the bad news about KLRs from what I've read on the net.

I have to add after reading all the posts on the thread there has been only a handful of cases of actual damage & agree with Lyntec that there is no side thrust (God knows how many times gonzo has been placed rapidly on the ground on that side) so tend to think it isn't as bad as it is being made out to be. An easy fix really.

Disappointing - yes, serious- unsure

[GPS MAN]

Hey Pete, I am on KLR.net...So, I'll pass the VIN along ot WATT MAN ..

Thanks for the info....

[GPS MAN]

I'll pass it along to Watt MAN ..

Thanks..Pete

[pete376403]

Watt-man repllied to my post on KLR650.net about numbers, dates, etc. His VIN tracking and the Kawasaki date of October 08 tally, so he's still calling about 20,000 bikes affected - thats about 1000 KLRs per MONTH*, which goes to show how popular these things are world-wide. Would be interesting to compare the numbers of similar bikes of other brands, eg Tenere, DR650, etc.

*Again, from VINs, the monthly production rate is rising. Thats gotta put a chill into the Dog Rooter riders..

[Woodman]

pretty sure that KLRs are kawasakis single biggest selling unit. Read it somewhere.

[dino3310]

Watt-man repllied to my post on KLR650.net about numbers, dates, etc. His VIN tracking and the Kawasaki date of October 08 tally, so he's still calling about 20,000 bikes affected - thats about 1000 KLRs per MONTH*, which goes to show how popular these things are world-wide. Would be interesting to compare the numbers of similar bikes of other brands, eg Tenere, DR650, etc.

*Again, from VINs, the monthly production rate is rising. Thats gotta put a chill into the Dog Rooter riders..


pretty sure that KLRs are kawasakis single biggest selling unit. Read it somewhere.

well it is the KLR thread so i'l :shutup: :shutup: :whistle:

but on a brighter note it is good to see bike sales up, will be interesting to see all the other marquee figures

[dino3310]

saw this and thought with the electronic gismos aswell for 7.5k = bloody good deal, or maybe buy the gizmos for yours
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-301294434.htm

[NordieBoy]

Wow.
A blue KLR in Filco today had a sticker saying $11,495.

This one is a better deal though...
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-280301577.htm

[Padmei]

Wow.
A blue KLR in Filco today had a sticker saying $11,495.

This one is a better deal though...
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-280301577.htm

Had a look at that the other day. Someone has spent a lot of money on doing it up. Braided rear bake lines & metal master cylinder cover. Not sure about front lines. very nice seat, Look like Givi crash bars - I haven't seen them before but have a brace thru from one side to other to stop them bending. hot grips etc.
Initially I thought they were dreaming with the price but there's a couple grand of gear on there.

$11495 for the blue one is abit optimistic since they have that lovely blue Tenere there hiding in the corner for not a great deal more. Nearly fainted tho when I saw the price of accessories

[Woodman]

To be honest I think $11495 is top dollar fo a klr. Great bike and all but part of the appeal is its price imho.

[Padmei]

Remember me bragging about the R1 pipes I bought for $175
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/GSPDR1pipes008.jpg

Took them to my exhaust guy who cut them & made up stainless adaptor to fit onto header. Well turns out they were bloody titanium:blink: and you can't MIG or TIG Ti. After trying around Nelson to find someone able to weld it he drew a blank.
Great!!:angry: I thought & went away thinking I'd have to pop rivet a bandage type arrangement KLR style to make it work. But called into Cooz' engineering shopon the way home.
Cooz knows a lot of clever people around & put me onto a dude that works from home welding aircraft exhausts. A good sort of character who agreed to weld it in exchange for a date with Angelina Jolie & some expired stock peanut slabs.
There's so much involved with welding Ti - purging & keeping it oxygen freeetc & the cost of rods. Another lesson for this week.

[pete376403]

There were a pair of these on trademe recently for $150 reserve. I was about to bid for them when I thought I'd wait to see how yours turned out. As it happened they didn't sell.

[Woodman]

oooooohh Titanium cool Titanium.

[stormtrooper]

Remember me bragging about the R1 pipes I bought for $175


Took them to my exhaust guy who cut them & made up stainless adaptor to fit onto header. Well turns out they were bloody titanium and you can't MIG or TIG Ti. After trying around Nelson to find someone able to weld it he drew a blank.
Great!! I thought & went away thinking I'd have to pop rivet a bandage type arrangement KLR style to make it work. But called into Cooz' engineering shopon the way home.
Cooz knows a lot of clever people around & put me onto a dude that works from home welding aircraft exhausts. A good sort of character who agreed to weld it in exchange for a date with Angelina Jolie & some expired stock peanut slabs.
There's so much involved with welding Ti - purging & keeping it oxygen freeetc & the cost of rods. Another lesson for this week.


There were a pair of these on trademe recently for $150 reserve. I was about to bid for them when I thought I'd wait to see how yours turned out. As it happened they didn't sell.

Hey i purchased a Yoshimara pipe off trade me not to long ago for peanuts and its the best thing i have done to the bike, i had the local exhaust fitters make up the neck, i rode in with the standard by now sqweeking, heavy mess of a thing and rode away on a deep roaring monster. Money well spent

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=212493

[Padmei]

oooooohh Titanium cool Titanium.

Yeah right! At least it wasn't as bad as the dude who bought a set to put on his flash road bike - he left the place after paying $400 in welding costs.

It may be finished today. I will wait & let you know how they go.

Hows your pipe progressing Woodman?


Storm trooper that looks the biznezz

[Woodman]

Yeah right! At least it wasn't as bad as the dude who bought a set to put on his flash road bike - he left the place after paying $400 in welding costs.

It may be finished today. I will wait & let you know how they go.

Hows your pipe progressing Woodman?


Storm trooper that looks the biznezz

Will have to wait till I get back from holiday.
Its a bit long so I need to angle it up. It may de too loud, but I will see what you guys think cos I don't like too loud bikes.

It also may be a good time to do the 685 kit thing/ jetting/pipe etc. Oil burning is becoming an issue. Its a shame cos it goes like a rocket.

[NordieBoy]

Its a shame cos it goes like a rocket.

Plumes of smoke and shaking the ground?

[Woodman]

Plumes of smoke and shaking the ground?

Well the smoke the other day was the TTS I had in there.(Ihope). I was experimenting with lowering the octane to see if it would stop pinking. It did.

In saying that I am going to try running Penrite 10w70 synthetic to see what that does first.

[Padmei]

Got the pipe back from the welders today & fitted it on no problems. Looks great & sounds excellent. Went for a quick trip around the neighbourhood & couldn't really tell if it has altered it's performance - maybe a tad more responsive however I'll wait for a ride into the forest tomm to see if it is better on those steep hills.

The only downside is the pop pop pop on decel with the stock now sound like a frigging cannon off the starboard bow. Nearly cacked my daks the first time it happened. I'll research how to eliminate or minimise the back firing tonite as I think I've read somewhere you can't get rid of completely on the kLRs.
I think it needs a better tune as sometimes it stops idling without choke when coldish which it didn't used to do before I did the 22cent mod. Anyone got any ideas about it?

ANyway here's some pics if anyones interested.

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/exhaust002.jpg

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/exhaust003.jpg

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/exhaust005.jpg

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/exhaust006.jpg

Can someone please notice the beautiful weld of th epipe by the collar

[NordieBoy]

Nice weld of the pipe by the collar mate.

Now to try turning the end cap up the other way.

[Padmei]

Nice weld of the pipe by the collar mate.

Now to try turning the end cap up the other way.

sigh.....:(

[marks]

Now to try turning the end cap up the other way.

wot he said

have you unsealed the sealed idle mixture screw and set it to try and stop the popping?

[NordieBoy]

sigh.....:(

Or just don't ride in the rain.

:D

[Woodman]

Nice weld, looks great.

[Padmei]

wot he said

have you unsealed the sealed idle mixture screw and set it to try and stop the popping?

Will try that tomm morning.Did you have any probs with the Jardine?

[pete376403]

Also, have you removed the exhaust air valve? That's the one behind the right side panel, vacuum opens the valve and bleeds fresh air into the exhaust port. Air leaks in the exhaust are a prime source of popping/banging on overrun, as the unburned mixture gets ignited by the hot pipe. You need to make up a plug for the hole in the cylinder head (one which won't fall out, eh MarkS). The fresh air is taken from inside the frame, up by the steering head, so I've re-routed that hose to become the carb bowl vent. Removes a tiny bit of weight, too, which can't hurt.

[marks]

Will try that tomm morning.Did you have any probs with the Jardine?

No - but I had a stage 2 jetting kit already installed when the Jardine went on.


You need to make up a plug for the hole in the cylinder head (one which won't fall out, eh MarkS).

oooh - thats below the belt Pete
that really fooked up a great ride - at least it didnt do any damage to the engine...

[Padmei]

Thanks for the replys I'll head into the lab & see how I go.

[NordieBoy]

If there's a localised thunderstorm with lightning, we'll know who to blame.

[Padmei]

Took the clothes off Gonzo this morn & got into the carb to try to get rid of the thunderous backfiring.

I turned the pilot screw out 2 1/4 turns (from 1 3/4 turns) drilled the slide out 7/64th (already shimmed the needle) & then took it out for a blast round the forest.

Right from the start the difference was incredible. The throttle response was spot on. It felt as smooth as Zerax's flat slide carb DR I rode last weekend. The motor was smooth & the rear wheel spun with every twitch of the right hand. It felt like a completely different engine.

I think drilling the slide may have caused the most effect. I am very impressed with the carb mods & new pipe.

The only downside is the consistent backfiring on decel. I don't think there are any major exhaust leaks as the pipe fits are pretty snug & clamped down pretty well. I couldn't find the fresh air pipe valve thing until I reread this thread. I thought when I was looking atthe engine it was some kind of water pump.
I'll keep investigating.

[marks]

I think drilling the slide may have caused the most effect. I am very impressed with the carb mods & new pipe.

The only downside is the consistent backfiring on decel. I don't think there are any major exhaust leaks as the pipe fits are pretty snug & clamped down pretty well. I couldn't find the fresh air pipe valve thing until I reread this thread. I thought when I was looking atthe engine it was some kind of water pump.
I'll keep investigating.

As you said - I think drilling the slide makes a big difference to the throttle response. Get rid of that air injection shit and the popping will dissapear

[NordieBoy]

It's cool what small things can make big differences to the smile factor :D

[warewolf]

Sounds like a good upgrade Padmei... I'm doing the same thing to my beastie this week.

Not sure that the exhaust air injection is entirely to blame for the popping. When I removed mine, the popping was noticeably reduced at slower speeds, but it's still there and seems as bad at higher speeds. It was the only thing I changed at that time, no jetting or exhaust. Bikes without exhaust air injection fitted at all (ex-factory) also pop on the overrun. Richer idle mixtures reduce it, but I'd rather have the more responsive/economic leaner idle and tolerate the popping.

I'm sure all of us who've ridden with Monseigneur Jardine are thankful he has dialed his out, though.

[pete376403]

How tight are the pipe joins? Hose clips are not really suitable for pipe joins, especially if there is any sort of clearance between the pipes.

[Padmei]

How tight are the pipe joins? Hose clips are not really suitable for pipe joins, especially if there is any sort of clearance between the pipes.

Thanks for the replys. I think you're all got valid points. I have read about the popping (I also now know the difference between backfiring & popping) on KLRnet & certainly the air valve seems to be the culprit, however sucking air in thru the joins could also be to blame. I thought naively that (like water) if the gasses are being forced out that direction that air couldn't be sucked back in.

Ww the richer the mixture the less responsive? Hows that work? By turning the mixture out I was enrichening the mixture?

[warewolf]

Ww the richer the mixture the less responsive? Hows that work? By turning the mixture out I was enrichening the mixture?A good mixture will be "crisp" and responsive. As you go richer, the response becomes sluggish, often described as "doughy". I notice it regularly on the 640A, since the air filter self-dusts. It gets dirty quickly and the bike runs richer, throttle response near/off-idle suffers - it's actually an indicator the filter needs attention.

These days bikes can be set up ex-factory quite lean at idle - I'm sure there's emissions tests done at idle. So going richer than OEM can be useful and increase throttle response. This latter is why lots of Americans tweak idle mixture, and why their PTB cover them with brass plugs to stop them!! (Their emissions rules being a bit stricter than ours, esp California)

However all too many ppl report the bike is set up & running well, then they go richer to reduce the popping... the implication being the bike is now not running so well.

The 640A has an adjustable mixture screw. We can set it right, you can go for a ride, then we can set it too rich & compare.

[Padmei]

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/YlwygfX7QfQ&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/YlwygfX7QfQ&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

Just uploaded my first vid & want to see if I can embed it.

Not that interesting really...

[marks]

Just uploaded my first vid & want to see if I can embed it.

Not that interesting really...

its a bit noisy

[NordieBoy]

The laugh was nice and evil too :D

[Crim]

I know this has been done before and DR footpegs fit the mighty KLR - but, as always, trying to save a bit of cash - anyone got a photo or can take one of what a KLR footpeg looks like without the rubber on it - thinking I may be able to attach some ground metal plates and make the exisiting more "off roady" - but don't want to start the process and then discover I buggered them and have to pay top whack for off the shelf replacements
Thanks, Crim

[Eddieb]

The laugh was nice and evil too :D

+1, I liked the finale

[Padmei]

I know this has been done before and DR footpegs fit the mighty KLR - but, as always, trying to save a bit of cash - anyone got a photo or can take one of what a KLR footpeg looks like without the rubber on it - thinking I may be able to attach some ground metal plates and make the exisiting more "off roady" - but don't want to start the process and then discover I buggered them and have to pay top whack for off the shelf replacements
Thanks, Crim

Crim - it's nice to know there's someone as cheap as me out there.:sunny:

I made my own & is very simple. I took off my shitty rubber bits then got some 20mm flat bar & bent it so it was snug around what was left of the existing pegs. This took a bit of grunting & hammering but I got it done.
I put it in the vice & with a grinder cut some V s in the bar. My weldermate then put 4 welds underneath & I sprayed it with some black paint - voila!!:2thumbsup

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/exhaust001.jpg

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/exhaust002-1.jpg

It was a bit funny cos my engineer mates were watching & shaking their heads - they kept coming over to try & take over & do it 'properly' but as it was my project I kept them away.

If I was to do it again I would weld a couple of small spacer blocks either side of the pegs & make the area wider (length is good).

Woodman & I have had many discussions on the KLR footpegs & agree that they would be better set further back. Note the edge of the pegs worn away :Punk:. BTW If you haven't yet make sure you replace the footpeg bolts - they will strip or shear off when out riding - trust me we know.

[NordieBoy]

BTW If you haven't yet make sure you replace the footpeg bolts - they will strip or shear off when out riding - trust me we know.

And we've got video too :D

[Crim]

Crim - it's nice to know there's someone as cheap as me out there.:sunny:

If I was to do it again I would weld a couple of small spacer blocks either side of the pegs & make the area wider (length is good).

Thanks Padmei - exactly what I needed to know, gives me a couple of options, cheap is good but also better "making" than buying a bit more satisfying! Now I just have to talk the wife into the same mindset with her clothes shopping (not holding my breath on that one!)

[Padmei]

Thanks Padmei - Now I just have to talk the wife into the same mindset with her clothes shopping (not holding my breath on that one!)

Mate I've only just learnt to give praise about the missus buys - it's so much easier that way to buy bike goodies:shutup:

[Eddieb]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-306129892.htm

Don't see too many of these for sale. Buy now $3500.


http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/64/138597364_full.jpg

[Padmei]

This guy & chick defintitely ride KLRs.
Make sure you watch the whole thing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNc5o9TU0t0

[NordieBoy]

This guy & chick defintitely ride KLRs.
Make sure you watch the whole thing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNc5o9TU0t0

That means your internet is still working.

[Padmei]

That means your internet is still working.

Yeah cheers for that. I sent a text.
Have you got any music from these guys saved anywhere? If so can I get some on my mp3 player?

[DR650gary]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-306129892.htm

Don't see too many of these for sale. Buy now $3500.


http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/64/138597364_full.jpg

He only bought it a few months ago. Looks a nice bike but same money buys a later model something so why bother?

[JATZ]

He only bought it a few months ago. Looks a nice bike but same money buys a later model something so why bother?

Why bother ?....
Because some people like old school. Personly I would rather ride that than a late model KLR, it's got "character" and "style" and prolly ongoing mechanical issues aswell :whistle:

[Woodman]

Why bother ?....
Because some people like old school. Personly I would rather ride that than a late model KLR, it's got "character" and "style" and prolly ongoing mechanical issues aswell :whistle:

And unlike some old school bikes , parts and accessories are readily available.

I quite like that tengai, actually could get by with only paying one rego with 2 klrs. Hmmmm?

Tempting. What was that dear? A new oven? Whats wrong with the BBQ?

Maybe not

[Woodman]

Does anyone here know where I can get a pre 08 KLR front wheel.
Surely someone has one lieing around somewhere that they don't want anymore.

have tried a few wreckers but no joy so far.

[Padmei]

Is it warrant time? or has it disintefrated further?
I wil have a box of KLR crap soon but no wheels unfortunately.

[DR650gary]

And unlike some old school bikes , parts and accessories are readily available.

I quite like that tengai, actually could get by with only paying one rego with 2 klrs. Hmmmm?

Tempting. What was that dear? A new oven? Whats wrong with the BBQ?

Maybe not

Too new really to be a real classic, although it may become one if it doesn't hand grenade. I looked when it first went on but decided that front guard would have to go, then some of the body kit in case I went down, then went a bought a DR650.

It does look good though. Nice colours.

[Woodman]

Is it warrant time? or has it disintefrated further?
I wil have a box of KLR crap soon but no wheels unfortunately.

The hub is fcuked so I have no speedo drive etc. Was going to get a vapor thingy, but have decided to try for a new front wheel, and then at least I have an option to put a decent knob on the front for laidbacks etc without having to change a tyre everytime.

[Woodman]

Too new really to be a real classic, although it may become one if it doesn't hand grenade. I looked when it first went on but decided that front guard would have to go, then some of the body kit in case I went down, then went a bought a DR650.

It does look good though. Nice colours.

When did you ever hear of a klr hand grenading??

[Crim]

G'day, went down to Timaru today to do the Eagle Mike Doohickey and torsion spring (thanks Woodman) with Stu, arrived and Stu's first bit of advice was "let's wash down your bike, Crim" - I declined
note to self - always wash your bloody bike down when you are doing anything in the motor!
Anyway got into it, got into the motor and hey presto broken spring flopping round in there like that fish that ADVGD caught in the weekend, there was a groove worn in the case where the spring was rubbing and also spring was slowly getting worn through by the ,untensioned, balancer chain rubbing along it - I was stoked that a problem was there to be fixed! Got it all in (scheeze that tensioner spring is hard fiddly work to get in!) and all back together - used same gaskets and rotor bolt - no problems (Stu popped over the road and got his mates torque wrench which was great!). Things started going tits up when I replaced the sump plug and overtensioned it - it now leaks, so am going to investigate oversizes plugs (or wooden ones, eh Nordie?) and heli coils tomorrow - bugga bugga bugga!

Anyway another good thing about doing the doo at Stu's place is that he has got some wicked photos of the problem which I / he will post soon!

Cheers, Crim

post scriptum: finally got some tension in the balancer chain, and I know that the oil change will help, and it may be my imagination but she appears to be running heaps smoother now.

[Woodman]

Goodonya, its not that hard once you are in there :yes:

Mine too had the broken spring etc. And its not your imagination, they do run smoother once the doo is done. And quieter.

Crazy bit of engineering that doohickey.

[Padmei]

Good on ya mate welcome to the doo dunnit club - oh hang on the shop did mine... but I did have to open everythng up when this oaf dropped a screw down the camchain hole while checking the valves (stuff arag down the hole)

[Crim]

................ when this oaf dropped a screw down the camchain hole while checking the valves (stuff arag down the hole)

Who's arag, he must be small and doesn't he get sick of waiting for you to drop stuff?

[NordieBoy]

Who's arag, he must be small and doesn't he get sick of waiting for you to drop stuff?

Nah, he dosn't have to wait long usually.

[Padmei]

Nah, he dosn't have to wait long usually.

I wish he'd come to work with me - my days would be so much more productive:yes:

[pete376403]

Good on ya mate welcome to the doo dunnit club - oh hang on the shop did mine...

You've got an '08, which had the new and improved Doo (although still perhaps not as good as an EM unit) but did it really need changing, or was it just a pre-emptive strike. Was there any wear or other damage to the original Doo, or anything wrong with the spring? How many kms when you had it done?

Should check mine, but can't be arsed pulling the flywheel off.

[Padmei]

You've got an '08, which had the new and improved Doo (although still perhaps not as good as an EM unit) but did it really need changing, or was it just a pre-emptive strike. Was there any wear or other damage to the original Doo, or anything wrong with the spring? How many kms when you had it done?

Should check mine, but can't be arsed pulling the flywheel off.

It went in for a service - I think 12k? or whatever it should have been & it was really noisy in that dept. I wasn't confident doing it myself but got an EM from overseas.
The dealer did it as partof the service & Kawi paid for it. The spring was rooted however the doo was fine & I think the modern doo will actually be fine but if you are replacing the spring why not.

If I was to get another undooed KLR I would do it myself as all you really need is the manual & rotor puller (woodmans homemade one is good) but probably reuse the doo & just replace the spring - I used the normal type not the torsion type which sounds like bit of a prick to work with.

[Crim]

Well, as I said in the last post thought I had stripped the sump when over tensioning the plug so took it in to Superior Motorcycles (they always seem really good when I wander in window shopping and really helpfull) told them to bang a Heli Coil in but ring if it was anything more - got a real Friday the 13th call this morning at work:shit:............
"the sump is cracked:blink:, you have three options :gob:
1. Bog it up and get it going - but next time you change oil - same problem:blink:
2. Get it welded - could be a couple of hundy if they can do it as is or up to a grand if we have to strip it and give them the pan only:blink:
3. Get the parts from Japan and replace - looking at 3 to 4 k(very pessimistic - ie - if they find anything else):angry:

Paid 5k, if I spend 4k getting it fixed may be worth 4.5k at the end of the exercise:no: so told them to check it out if they can do it for a hundy or two go for it - anything more I'll grab it back, strip it and take it to the engineer myself - am now awaiting one of two calls;
1. G'day Crim, all fixed coupla hundy and we'll even throw in a free Shoei Hornet:rockon:
2. Will be at least a grand - come and grab it and stuff up your whole weekend and half of next week while you are at it:shit:

Thing is I struggle to understand how I cracked the sump in the first place as I was being quite careful and trying not to be too hard:confused:

[dino3310]

or the third call
3) sorry crim i got shitty after fucking up the helicoil and banged it a little with the hammer so i guess where paying for the new sump.

bugga mate, hope you get it sorted at the cheaper option

[marks]

Well, as I said in the last post thought I had stripped the sump when over tensioning the plug so took it in to Superior Motorcycles (they always seem really good when I wander in window shopping and really helpfull) told them to bang a Heli Coil in but ring if it was anything more - got a real Friday the 13th call this morning at work:shit:............
"the sump is cracked:blink:, you have three options :gob:
1. Bog it up and get it going - but next time you change oil - same problem:blink:
2. Get it welded - could be a couple of hundy if they can do it as is or up to a grand if we have to strip it and give them the pan only:blink:
3. Get the parts from Japan and replace - looking at 3 to 4 k(very pessimistic - ie - if they find anything else):angry:

Paid 5k, if I spend 4k getting it fixed may be worth 4.5k at the end of the exercise:no: so told them to check it out if they can do it for a hundy or two go for it - anything more I'll grab it back, strip it and take it to the engineer myself - am now awaiting one of two calls;
1. G'day Crim, all fixed coupla hundy and we'll even throw in a free Shoei Hornet:rockon:
2. Will be at least a grand - come and grab it and stuff up your whole weekend and half of next week while you are at it:shit:

Thing is I struggle to understand how I cracked the sump in the first place as I was being quite careful and trying not to be too hard:confused:

I wonder if its been cracked for a while - say from a stone or other impact - and tightening the bolt caused it to spread?

[pete376403]

I agree with Mark - if Crims KLR is anything like the '08 (and I cant see anything about the cases being changed for the newer models) the drain plug hangs down a long way and it's not well protected by the bash plate. Hang that drain plug up on a rock at any sort of speed and somethings going to give.

[Crim]

I agree with Mark - if Crims KLR is anything like the '08 (and I cant see anything about the cases being changed for the newer models) the drain plug hangs down a long way and it's not well protected by the bash plate. Hang that drain plug up on a rock at any sort of speed and somethings going to give.

Yeah - agree, when I get it fixed (hopefully with heli coil welded in) I might invest in a low profile bung - and also investigate extending the bash plate - not really a problem to undo 3 bolts to take off bash plate to access - at least gives peace of mind

[Padmei]

Yeah - agree, when I get it fixed (hopefully with heli coil welded in) I might invest in a low profile bung - and also investigate extending the bash plate - not really a problem to undo 3 bolts to take off bash plate to access - at least gives peace of mind

If you find these mythical low profile bungs buy many & sell them & they will pay for your repairs & a trip across mongolia.

Before you buy cases etc I'll have a look & see if I've got some in this box of KLR crap. Will check it out today.

[Woodman]

Ouch... bad luck mate.

we were discussing this on here somewhere recently about the sump bungs.
Mine hangs below the bashplate and now it will definitely be sorted. The amount of times the thing gets hung up on rocks etc its only a matter of time before the bung gets punched through the case.

[pete376403]

Well there are these :
http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/KLR%20650%20Magnetic%20Drain%20Plug.htm or you could buy bolt pack Champion BM145 from Supercheap which contains 2 of M12x1.5 which is the KLR drain plug size. They are a bit long at 50mm but thats easily fixed. The head is about 2/3 the height of the drain plug, and could be reduced a bit more.

[Padmei]

Cheers Pete. Which way did you go?

[pete376403]

Supercheap of course! It's a KLR, after all.
However found these, which would be even better, as they are internal hex.
http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/M12-x-1-50-x-12mm-Pipe-Plug-DIN-908-A2-70_AICFS.aspx

Will get a few in.

[Padmei]

I'll be in for 1.

[pete376403]

OK, I've e-mailed to find out freight costs. There's no VAT applicable for export so price would be 3 quid converted to south pacific pesos plus freight. They are stainless so magnets wouldnt stick - if you want a magnetic drain plug it would be necessary to drill a hole for the magnet and epoxy it in place.

[Howie]

Supercheap of course! It's a KLR, after all.
However found these, which would be even better, as they are internal hex.
http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/M12-x-1-50-x-12mm-Pipe-Plug-DIN-908-A2-70_AICFS.aspx

Will get a few in.

I like the look of them, I would be interested in one as well


cheers

Paul

[veny]

Hi chaps. Long time no post.

http://jnsengineering.com/products-page/2008-2010-klr650/2008-2010-klr650-aluminum-skid-plate/

But make four rubber washers to sit between the plate and bike.

[Padmei]

Hi chaps. Long time no post.

http://jnsengineering.com/products-page/2008-2010-klr650/2008-2010-klr650-aluminum-skid-plate/

But make four rubber washers to sit between the plate and bike.

0.190" - what kind of a bloody measurement is that - isn't it easier to just say 5 or 6mm??? Bloody seppos

[RedKLR650]

[QUOTE=Crim;1129833844]G'day, went down to Timaru today to do the Eagle Mike Doohickey and torsion spring (thanks Woodman) with Stu. Got into it, got into the motor and hey presto broken spring flopping round in there like that fish that ADVGD caught in the weekend, there was a groove worn in the case where the spring was rubbing and also spring was slowly getting worn through by the ,untensioned, balancer chain rubbing along it - I was stoked that a problem was there to be fixed! Got it all in (scheeze that tensioner spring is hard fiddly work to get in!) and all back together - used same gaskets and rotor bolt - no problems (Stu popped over the road and got his mates torque wrench which was great!). Anyway another good thing about doing the doo at Stu's place is that he has got some wicked photos of the problem which I / he will post soon!
Cheers, Crim

[RedKLR650]

Anyway another good thing about doing the doo at Stu's place is that he has got some wicked photos of the problem which I / he will post soon!
Cheers, Crim

Yet More of Crims Dohickey Shots

[RedKLR650]

The last of Crims Dohickey photos

I see this site shows each set in reverse numbered order ( i.e. view right to left for proper sequence )

Hope they are useful :yes:

Cheers, Stu

P.S. Only 14 more days until I get my lisence back, man these demerit point things are painful....... anyone for the TT2000 - 2011 ?? :shit::scooter:

[Padmei]

How did you find the old Doo? Pretty tinny compared to the new ones

[Crim]

yes it was a lot thinner - honestly though I reckon it may have been alright as long as you didn't overtighten (after my sump experience I might invest in a torque wrench anyway!) but the spring is obviously hopeless - New Doo is a lot heavier and obviously torsion spring seems a lot safer (supplied springs also seem a lot better engineered)

[Crim]

G'day
Thinking of investing in a manual - any comments on the Kawasaki KLR650 1987-2007 Clymer service repair and maintenance manual M474?
Cheers
Crim216402

[Padmei]

I've got one & they're good. If you're going to buy one how about buying the 08 version (not available when I got my manual) & we can swapsie - you can even have preloved page corners by the doo section - for no extra cost:innocent:

[Crim]

I've got one & they're good. If you're going to buy one how about buying the 08 version (not available when I got my manual) & we can swapsie - you can even have preloved page corners by the doo section:innocent:

sounds like a plan - will investigate - TM seller is actually up your way

[Padmei]

sounds like a plan - will investigate - TM seller is actually up your way

If you want to swapsie i'll pay for postage & some of the cost for the new one. - The bike's pretty much the same but nice to have one that matches.

Just had a look & looks like he only has earlier one

[pete376403]

Got the manual in PDF format if you want a look at it. for 1998-2003 models (but not much changed apart from the paint) It's an 18meg file - I can upload it to dropbox (www.dropbox.com) and you can get it from there.

[Crim]

Got the manual in PDF format if you want a look at it. for 1998-2003 models (but not much changed apart from the paint) It's an 18meg file - I can upload it to dropbox (www.dropbox.com) and you can get it from there.

Sounds great to me, thanks mate - sorry Padmei, like the true KLR owning cheapskate that I am (and wasting all my money on welding my sump) - will go for the cheapest option.

[pete376403]

OK - go to www.dropbox.com and download the app (13meg) and install. Create an account (free up to 2gb)
PM me your e-mail address and I add it to the shared users. Once that is done you log on to your dropbox account and you should see the shared folder.

[Crim]

sorry Padmei, just opened my new service manual - this interweb / email pc stuff is amazing - thanks Pete

[Padmei]

sorry Padmei, just opened my new service manual - this interweb / email pc stuff is amazing - thanks Pete

No worries. I'mkind of liking the smudged look anyway:yes:

[Crim]

guy on TM can get an '08 one in a week - buy yourself one and give the old one to Nordie boy for his birthday - a bit of light reading for him - he obviously coverts a KLR (Methinks thou dost protest too much)

[Crim]

Supercheap of course! It's a KLR, after all.
However found these, which would be even better, as they are internal hex.
http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/M12-x-1-50-x-12mm-Pipe-Plug-DIN-908-A2-70_AICFS.aspx

Will get a few in.

Have you ordered these yet, cos I have got a query with Black's fasteneres here in ChCh that may be able to supply - if they are a go I will get a price and post out if you like

[pete376403]

Yes, three* on the way, should be here is few days.
Freight costs are 3 pounds minimum or 33% cost of order, so I can get three for the freight cost of one. Any more and the freight goes up by 1 pound per item. Works out $8.50 each.

*all spoken for.

Now I've got a picture and a description of what I'm after, I'll try a few of the engineering suppliers in Wgtn but even if they can supply Idoubt it wil be stainless or that price.

[Crim]

Yes, three* on the way, should be here is few days.
Freight costs are 3 pounds minimum or 33% cost of order, so I can get three for the freight cost of one. Any more and the freight goes up by 1 pound per item. Works out $8.50 each

yeah that sounds really reasonable - and you are right, don't know if locals could match that price or quality - if you going to drill and put a magnet in yours please advise how it went and post a few pics? Thanks, Crim

[pete376403]

Alrighty. the low (very low) profile drain plugs have arrived, pic shows one in the vice with the standard plug alongside. The difference is about 8mm, which may be the difference between cracked cases or not.
I used the standard crush washer. bear in mind the part of the cases where the plug screws in lies about 1mm below the bottom of the frame rails but I gues every bit helps.

Haven't tried fitting magnet to it, the plug is non magnetic stainless so will require a hole drilled and the magnet expoxied in.

[Padmei]

Now that's what we're talking about:yes: Looking forward to screwing mine in - is it ok to reuse the oil again??? It is a KLR & I am a KLR rider :rolleyes:

[warewolf]

Sure, just make sure the cases and the drain pan are spotlessly clean to avoid contamination.

[Padmei]

Sure, just make sure the cases and the drain pan are spotlessly clean to avoid contamination.

What consists of contamination? Just for arguments sake what if tiny bits of dust or pollen or other organic material ie. bugs got in? Would that be enough to cause damage? What about if there was say, remnants of gear oil or brake fluid in the bottom of the drain pan - would that affect the oil?

With shavings of metal etc I could understand but wouldn't lil bits just get munched up?

[warewolf]

Hard grit embedded in the dirt on the crankcase falling in to the oil pan would be my biggest concern.

Brake fluid is nasty stuff, could damage internal seals (swell to uselessness which could also dislodge them so they can block an oil passage) & is a little acidic which is not nice. Gear oil would be fine as long as it is not hypoid stuff, which is not compatible with wet clutches. Best to degrease the pan first.

Or bring the new plug along tomorrow, when she's belly up we'll change the plug before righting her? :laugh:

[Crim]

Or bring the new plug along tomorrow, when she's belly up we'll change the plug before righting her? :laugh:

I like that!

[Woodman]

If you are fast enough you should be able to swap them over without spilling fcuk all oil,

[Padmei]

You know, after doing all the mods on the bike, I think I'm actually getting the same or if not better mileage. I usually get bang on 320kms for a tank & the last couple of times it has gone past that before hitting reserve. The riding style or type hasn't changed.

[pete376403]

Hve you ever run the bike dry just to see what the ultimate distance possible is?
Sometimes having the big tank on the bike doesn't seem to be an advantage, such as when riding in a group, refill distances will be dictated by the smallest capacity. The other time it's a disadvantage is picking the thing up with a full tank.

[Padmei]

Hve you ever run the bike dry just to see what the ultimate distance possible is?
Sometimes having the big tank on the bike doesn't seem to be an advantage, such as when riding in a group, refill distances will be dictated by the smallest capacity. The other time it's a disadvantage is picking the thing up with a full tank.

I did get 380 kms the one time I ran it dry.
Spent plenty of time picking the bastard up today - oooh me aching back. The worst was when it had fallen on the downside of a steep rocky trail. Plenty of helpers tho.

We did a bit of bike swapsies today & a few people were pretty surprised with Gonzo's engine.

Those mods were definately the best thing I've done to it. i recommend any KLRers get a better pipe.

[marks]

Those mods were definately the best thing I've done to it. i recommend any KLRers get a better pipe.

I'm sure I can remember you saying that it had enough power stock and you couldnt see the point in modifying it :yes:

a pipe and the normal mods certainly transform the bike.

[marks]

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ig6IXatQzys?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ig6IXatQzys?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

[NordieBoy]

Looks like the way Woodman rides.



But they didn't hit any trees...

[klrider]

Hi guys, interested in anyone who might have a doo kit in the Wellington region, just reading up, I am on 10K. Sounds like its time to sort it out before the spring breaks. Im in Johnsonville, bike is blk, see a green 08 some monrings on way to work with crash bar,s if you see me wave does this make me a wanker? Im a convert to thumpers over recent years, gone from big fours which I might go back to one day, but cant see getting rid of the KLR any time soon, love it. Had since new, use it every day. Here is something interesting. I bought an 08, green, new. At 700k it blew up, yep blew up. Piece of casting broke off and went through it like a train wreak, got the 09 under warranty. They wanted my engine back at the factory to check it out, god knows what happened after that. Anyway, Im thinking of getting the better spring done at the 12k service, can we get those here? or do I have to get it offshore. Cheers fellas

[Moki]

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I noticed the barkbusters on the KLR...:shutup:

[Crim]

can we get those here? or do I have to get it offshore.

G'day Stu in Timaru has 3 or 4 of the upgraded stock springs now (you get 2 different length ones in the Eagle Mike Doohickey kit) I got the torsion spring from Woodman but I think they are only about $us15 on the net - look back a couple of pages and you will see photos of the busted standard spring in mine (2005 with 30k but looks like it has been broken for a while), post '08 seems to be the actual doohickey is fine - just the spring is a bit suspect.
Cheers Crim

[klrider]

G'day Stu in Timaru has 3 or 4 of the upgraded stock springs now (you get 2 different length ones in the Eagle Mike Doohickey kit) I got the torsion spring from Woodman but I think they are only about $us15 on the net - look back a couple of pages and you will see photos of the busted standard spring in mine (2005 with 30k but looks like it has been broken for a while), post '08 seems to be the actual doohickey is fine - just the spring is a bit suspect.
Cheers Crim Cheers crim.

[klrider]

Those mods were definately the best thing I've done to it. i recommend any KLRers get a better pipe. Any particular pipe?, I see there is one advertised regularly on Trade Me if you seach KLR. Cycleworks I think if anyone has any experience with these would appreciate hearing about it, they are about $600.

[Woodman]

Looks like the way Woodman rides.



But they didn't hit any trees...

Yes he did, he hit a couple, the difference is he didn't leave bits of his klr laying around all over the show.:shit:

[NordieBoy]

Yes he did, he hit a couple, the difference is he didn't leave bits of his klr laying around all over the show.:shit:

He brushed against trees...


Big difference.

:scooter:

[pete376403]

Any particular pipe?, I see there is one advertised regularly on Trade Me if you seach KLR. Cycleworks I think if anyone has any experience with these would appreciate hearing about it, they are about $600.

cycleworks make good pipes, and pprovide good after sales support. $600 is at the low end of the scale for new aftermarket mufflers.

But I just can't rationalise spending 7 - 8% (at a minimum) of the cost of the whole bike on an aftermarket muffler - it's not like it has a platinum catalytic converter or similar built in.

I like Padmei's idea, adapting an R1 muffler. Or a GSXR750 / 1000, Shaun Harris has some for sal.

or how about this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Exhaust/auction-311602303.htm

[Padmei]

I bought a couple of R1 stock pipes for $175. If I had thought about it I probably wouldn't have parted with the money however I did a crazy spur of the moment thing & said yes. I couldn't bring myself to spend more than that for a pipe.
I had to get the collar of the pipe cut off & welded back nearer the muffler & got a stainless pipe made up from there to the header. I can go back to stock at any time.I may use the other one
for the beemer at a later stage.
If you buy a Titanium pipe off another bike as I did, make sure you have a local welder that can weld Ti as it is a specialist material.

They are a great improvement over the spluttering stock pieces of crap

[Padmei]

Hi guys, interested in anyone who might have a doo kit in the Wellington region, just reading up, I am on 10K. Sounds like its time to sort it out before the spring breaks. Im in Johnsonville, bike is blk, see a green 08 some monrings on way to work with crash bar,s if you see me wave does this make me a wanker? Im a convert to thumpers over recent years, gone from big fours which I might go back to one day, but cant see getting rid of the KLR any time soon, love it. Had since new, use it every day. Here is something interesting. I bought an 08, green, new. At 700k it blew up, yep blew up. Piece of casting broke off and went through it like a train wreak, got the 09 under warranty. They wanted my engine back at the factory to check it out, god knows what happened after that. Anyway, Im thinking of getting the better spring done at the 12k service, can we get those here? or do I have to get it offshore. Cheers fellas

I've got Woodmans rotor puller if you need it. Not sure if anyone over there has one (apart from the shops of course) Let me know if you need it.

[stormtrooper]

Hi all you klr bikers,
I was on my way to shannon to do some ridding up the back of the dam and turned out to be a really good ride, found a hunting track that just kept going and going, had to turn back in the end, so still alot of track to go on next time.
Anyway i was half way to shannon when the speedo started going around pasted 160km and i knew i wasnt going that fast then it droped back to around 100km so i stoped and checked the cable that was all good so off i went and again the speedo shot up but this time it kept going right around and back to 0 and then again but this time the needle broke off, looks like im in for a new speedo unit.
Anyone out there fitted a Vapour Steath digital unit am looking at puting one on.

[Padmei]

Hi all you klr bikers,
I was on my way to shannon to do some ridding up the back of the dam and turned out to be a really good ride, found a hunting track that just kept going and going, had to turn back in the end, so still alot of track to go on next time.
Anyway i was half way to shannon when the speedo started going around pasted 160km and i knew i wasnt going that fast then it droped back to around 100km so i stoped and checked the cable that was all good so off i went and again the speedo shot up but this time it kept going right around and back to 0 and then again but this time the needle broke off, looks like im in for a new speedo unit.
Anyone out there fitted a Vapour Steath digital unit am looking at puting one on.

Might pay to check your front hub. On the aborted ride to Clarence Woodman had a 'moment' round a corner where the front wheel went silly. After that the speedo died. You may have a broken piece of crap in the front hub that might cause a scary moment if it gets caught in something.

On the other hand it may just be a rooted speedo.

I think a vapour is the cheapest way out.

[pete376403]

an instrument repairer may be able to sort it - if the KLR speedo uses a magnetic cup mechanism to move the needle then at a guess I'd say the return spring is broken OR it might be as simple as grease or oil from the cable has migrated into the speedo head - theres not much clearance between the rotating magnet and the steel cup - if oil fills the gap it will cause the sort of problem you describe.
If you've decided the speedo is a write-off , then theres nothing to loose by pulling it apart - if its full of oil cleaning it up with solvent might fix it.

[stormtrooper]

an instrument repairer may be able to sort it - if the KLR speedo uses a magnetic cup mechanism to move the needle then at a guess I'd say the return spring is broken OR it might be as simple as grease or oil from the cable has migrated into the speedo head - theres not much clearance between the rotating magnet and the steel cup - if oil fills the gap it will cause the sort of problem you describe.
If you've decided the speedo is a write-off , then theres nothing to loose by pulling it apart - if its full of oil cleaning it up with solvent might fix it.

I have pulled it apart and nothing looks amiss but its done over 80,000 and the last 2000 has been over some rocky stuff, the rubber sleeve around the key is very worn, so when ridding it was moving around abit, i have seen some low k ones on ebay but was thinking a digital one is the way to go

[Woodman]

Check the hub anyway, apparently it is quite common for them to disintegrate, although i doubt whether this is the problem with yours going by the symptoms.

BTW I am still after a front wheel for mine, and apparently a kdx has the same hub if anyone has one laying around.

If not will try a vapor, but I do like analog instruments.

[Squiggles]

Check the hub anyway, apparently it is quite common for them to disintegrate, although i doubt whether this is the problem with yours going by the symptoms.

BTW I am still after a front wheel for mine, and apparently a kdx has the same hub if anyone has one laying around.

If not will try a vapor, but I do like analog instruments.

Do the older KLR600's have the same front hub?

[Woodman]

Do the older KLR600's have the same front hub?

I am pretty sure they don't, but don't quote me on that.

Why/ Do you have one?

[Squiggles]

I am pretty sure they don't, but don't quote me on that.

Why/ Do you have one?

I might still

[Woodman]

Got sick of trying to get a new wheel so got a vapor digital speedo thing.

Installed it today, pretty easy really, but tomorrow is set up day. It all seems to work but the speedo seems to be reading real fast during my short trip up and down the street.

[pete376403]

KLRs *ARE* real fast...

[Crim]

KLRs *ARE* real fast...

yeah - you will need to check it on another marque (not saying which one)....... cough cough........ DR........ cough cough........ to check the low speeds

hope this doesn't get put in the red zone?

[stormtrooper]

Got sick of trying to get a new wheel so got a vapor digital speedo thing.

Installed it today, pretty easy really, but tomorrow is set up day. It all seems to work but the speedo seems to be reading real fast during my short trip up and down the street.

What one did you get?, there are different ones for different model bikes, if you can take a pic of it and post it up i would be keen to see how you fixed it in place.
There is a thread on adv ridder with pics and a diagram for the wiring, they used a 95-07 vapour stealth with the extra casing for lights and binkers etc, this was put on an older klr pre 95 and the wiring diagram is so you can connect it up, really good ref if you are having problems.

I am waiting for mine to arrive and will put up some pics of the conversion.


STORMTROOPER

[Woodman]

What one did you get?, there are different ones for different model bikes, if you can take a pic of it and post it up i would be keen to see how you fixed it in place.
There is a thread on adv ridder with pics and a diagram for the wiring, they used a 95-07 vapour stealth with the extra casing for lights and binkers etc, this was put on an older klr pre 95 and the wiring diagram is so you can connect it up, really good ref if you are having problems.

I am waiting for mine to arrive and will put up some pics of the conversion.


STORMTROOPER

I got one that was for klrs, and most other watercooled bikes with normal forks.

The mountings they supply do not work, so I just drilled 2 mounting holes on the original mounting bracket, then refitted the wiring cover. I didn't get the idiot lights, but will soon so the wiring was just a matter of connecting the supplied wiring to the battery and coil and fitting the adaptor in the top hose, and running the speed sensor down to the wheel.
It was very easy and I generally have a wiring phobia. The original wiring just stays where it is.
I saw the adv rider write up and the guy has way over complicated it really.

Setting the speed was easy too, just measured out a rolling circumference and entered that into the unit, then went out in traffic to see how it was and it seems fairly good.
I will post some pics up, but the bike is all back together now but they will give you an idea.

[Woodman]

Can't really see much but may give you some ideas. Did you see the post where the guy mounted his on an electrical box? i even went to Dick Smith and got one, but can't actually see why he bothered. Internet not always got good ideas.

Spose I coulda done a pictorial step by step, maybe the next project.
anyway the pics.....

[stormtrooper]

Cheers for putting up the pics Woodman.
Looks like you have got it sorted, let us know how it runs.

[dino3310]

WOW something finally looks cool on an KLR :rofl:

kidding aside, its looks awesome Woodman,
when ya gonna ditch the stock bars and chuck on some risers with a pro taper etc

[dino3310]

whats that on the rack against the wall, looks like a project. interesting looking frame

[Woodman]

Cheers for putting up the pics Woodman.
Looks like you have got it sorted, let us know how it runs.

Everything seems to work fine exactly how it should. I am still fcuken amazed how easy it all went. Will give it the acid test possibly next Friday weather permitting.


WOW something finally looks cool on an KLR :rofl:

kidding aside, its looks awesome Woodman,
when ya gonna ditch the stock bars and chuck on some risers with a pro taper etc

Everytime i think about replacing my bent bars I fall off and straighten them again. Also bar risers on klrs make the bars go closer to the rider and that is the last thing I need.


whats that on the rack against the wall, looks like a project. interesting looking frame
Thats my Benelli 250ss cafe racer project. Have just recently started doing more to it. Sometimes I wish I had neve pulled it apart. Its got a pressed steel frame kinda like a scooter with the motor parallel to the ground like an Aermacchi.

[dino3310]

Thats my Benelli 250ss cafe racer project. Have just recently started doing more to it. Sometimes I wish I had neve pulled it apart. Its got a pressed steel frame kinda like a scooter with the motor parallel to the ground like an Aermacchi.

Very cool:Punk:

[stormtrooper]

Anyone out there replaced the thermo sensor switch off the bottom of the radiator, it turns the fan off and on. Just priced up a new one at 115.00 sounds abit extreme at that.

Anyone know of a cheaper alternative, i was thinking of a common sensor with the right heat range and if the thread does not work i can thread it down to size

[pete376403]

Go to Pick-A-Part and see what you can find screwed into car motors - bound to be a common automotive fitting. Otherwise put a manual switch on the fan and keep an eye on the temp gauge.

And put a thermobob on it - will maintain far more even temps.

[stormtrooper]

Go to Pick-A-Part and see what you can find screwed into car motors - bound to be a common automotive fitting. Otherwise put a manual switch on the fan and keep an eye on the temp gauge.

And put a thermobob on it - will maintain far more even temps.

Your right there Pete, Ive heard of the thermobob and its all good.

Back to the problem at hand i have noticed after close inspection that one of the wires connecting the fan has come off, might explain why it wouldnt work, i was thinking the sensor was at fault after looking at that but maybe not, i will test it in some boiling water hooked up to the fan and see what happens, looks like its going to be a easy fix

[pete376403]

I've put the t'bob on my bike - easy to fit, the temp gauge sits just below halfway now, gets there within a few kms from starting out.
When test riding I had the fairing shrouds off - I reached down and touched the radiator top tank, too hot to keep my fingers on. The bottom of the rad was stone cold. Must be quite an efficient rad, could probably be a lot smaller. No doubt designed for Southern California summertime traffic jam conditions

[Woodman]

I've put the t'bob on my bike - easy to fit, the temp gauge sits just below halfway now, gets there within a few kms from starting out.
When test riding I had the fairing shrouds off - I reached down and touched the radiator top tank, too hot to keep my fingers on. The bottom of the rad was stone cold. Must be quite an efficient rad, could probably be a lot smaller. No doubt designed for Southern California summertime traffic jam conditions

FYI
According to my new vapor the fan comes on at exactly 110 degrees c.
Might try a t bob cos my fan is on a lot.

[pete376403]

What sort of riding are you doing when the fan comes on? For me, normal road riding the fan only comes on if I'm in a traffic hold up of some sort. Even on the CCA ride I don't recall the fan coming on apart from when stuck in bog holes. My KLR is an '08, the radiator is different to the earlier ones.

Also the t'bob won't help over temp conditions, it's sole purpose is to provide better control over the water flowl to make the engine come up to operating temp and remain there.

[Woodman]

What sort of riding are you doing when the fan comes on? For me, normal road riding the fan only comes on if I'm in a traffic hold up of some sort. Even on the CCA ride I don't recall the fan coming on apart from when stuck in bog holes. My KLR is an '08, the radiator is different to the earlier ones.

Open road never comes on

Summer slow traffic it comes on (very rarely ride in these conditions though)

Tight gravel roads it comes on.

Trail riding (maungatap and rougher) its on more often than not.

Very slow gnarly stuff it is on almost constantly.

One day I bent the shroud and the fan jammed and it got really really hot that day.
May be normal for pre 08s I dunno.

[stormtrooper]

Temp and fan problems all fixed, and was just a matter of soldering the wires back on, i have noticed on the temp sensor the wire is tacked onto the plug and has a chance of coming loose at some stage so i managed to locate a stock replacement on ebay for 19.00 this one has a plug for the wire to go into on the end of it.:niceone:

The earlier problem i had was the speedo shat itself and i was thinking of replacing with a digitial one, or a replacement, anyway after looking at the old one and thinking about how much money it was going to cost to replace i decided to strip it down and rebuild both the dials (not easy and not recomended)
After some nervice moments and some coffee it was done, i had replaced the broken needles with plastic ones, and lubed the speedo mec, this made it run very smooth.
Tested through Odlins rd, if it was to crapout this place would do it, ran spot on happy days better get it in for my WOF

[pete376403]

http://www.revzilla.com/commute

It is, of course, a proper green one. And no, I don't know how much oil that ride used.

[Frodo]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzjCw-BIkKA&feature=related

This video cries out for smart comments....

[Padmei]

All I can say is youtube really sucks -it is the only video site that you spend more time buffering than watching. The vid would have been good if I'd beenpatient enough to watch more than5 secs:violin:

[Crim]

[QUOTE=Frodo;1129880099This video cries out for smart comments....[/QUOTE]

Just imagine the awesome power needed to get THAT stuck!

[Waihou Thumper]

Funny to watch and I can relate to that...
How many times have we gone through the known path and got stuck...realising we should have gone around..:yes:

The commute to work was also good to watch...Nice skills, wonder how many takes it required to get the good angles and sequences...If I had that, would love to ride to work each and every day...:woohoo:

[Woodman]

great vid that. Can definiely relate to that.

[marks]

I have been mulling over stripping off all the fairing crap on the front of my klr.

I have a swish headlight off a late model wr450 and a wr450 speedo (or could get a vapour or similar).

For this to work I think the side plastics would have to be replaced by earlier versions and possibly the tank as well. I believe the radiator is different between the pre 08 and post 08 types and this may cause complications.

Is anyone aware of any links to info on people who have done this on their 08+'s or have any constructive comments?

Anyone got any early model bits that might work?

whatever I try would need to be reversible as I may well decide I don't like the change and want to go back to stock.

[NordieBoy]

Done properly or just done?


Paging Padmei, Padmei to the white courtesy phone.

[marks]

Done properly or just done?


Paging Padmei, Padmei to the white courtesy phone.

properly

including replacing the instrument cluster

[Howie]

For this to work I think the side plastics would have to be replaced by earlier versions and possibly the tank as well. I believe the radiator is different between the pre 08 and post 08 types and this may cause complications.

Is anyone aware of any links to info on people who have done this on their 08+'s or have any constructive comments?

Anyone got any early model bits that might work?

whatever I try would need to be reversible as I may well decide I don't like the change and want to go back to stock.

You could always try fitting one of the IMS plastic tanks, as they do away with the front side plastics, then all you need to worry about is your headlight suround/ instrument cluster

[Padmei]

Take off all the plastics & have a look. I would be tempted to replace the rad with a smaller MX type across the front of the frame out of the way, turn the fluid reservoir sideways, leave the tank as is & get rid of the crash bars.

Ebay has some reasonably priced acerbis headlites
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ACERBIS-DHH-HEADLIGHT-CRF-DRZ-WRF-KLX-EXC-EXC-F-TE-EC-/160429328713?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item255a554949

or you can search for UFO headlites that have the indicators in them like mine - they are expensive tho.
I got a quote for a trailtech vapour with idiot lites & base thing for $300

I think if you did the mods & got rid of the crash bars you'd save a lot of weight & it wouldn't be as vulnerable.

Actually on 2nd thought the plasics weigh bugger all- you'd lose 10kgs of crash bars tho.

I realised why the DR is so different to ride (yeah yeah apart from being more powerful blah blahblah) & that's because on the KLR you lose sight of the front wheel with the screen and also the instrument cluster in the way.

Remember tho the reason you got a KLR - the weather protection on them is pretty good with a taller screen & over a longish day saves you a lot of energy.

[NordieBoy]

over a longish day saves you a lot of energy.

Must resist........

:shutup::shutup::shutup:

[Woodman]

Get a IMS tank. I got one and they work good. No mods to radiator or anything really.

There is a thread on adv about this . Lightening KLR or something.

I think once you take all the crap off the front the post and pre 08,s are basically the same(ish)

[Padmei]

Must resist........

:shutup::shutup::shutup:

go on fire away-weknow it's gonna be lame anyway:angry:

[NordieBoy]

go on fire away-weknow it's gonna be lame anyway:angry:

Of course it's going to be lame :yes:

KLR riders need to conserve their energy for when they have to pick their bikes up!


See. Told you.

It was muuuuch funnier yesterday.



On the vid of your river crossing you can see the effect of the upturn in your R1 exhaust tip. Some nice plumes of steam...

[Woodman]

Of course it's going to be lame :yes:

KLR riders need to conserve their energy for when they have to pick their bikes up!


See. Told you.

It was muuuuch funnier yesterday.



On the vid of your river crossing you can see the effect of the upturn in your R1 exhaust tip. Some nice plumes of steam...

What vid???

[NordieBoy]

What vid???

The one that hasn't made it to youtube yet...

[Woodman]

The one that hasn't made it to youtube yet...

Oh ok haven't seen that one yet

[NordieBoy]

Oh ok haven't seen that one yet

Yep. 2min 45sec into that one...

[marks]

Take off all the plastics & have a look. I would be tempted to replace the rad with a smaller MX type across the front of the frame out of the way, turn the fluid reservoir sideways, leave the tank as is & get rid of the crash bars.

Ebay has some reasonably priced acerbis headlites
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ACERBIS-DHH-HEADLIGHT-CRF-DRZ-WRF-KLX-EXC-EXC-F-TE-EC-/160429328713?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item255a554949

or you can search for UFO headlites that have the indicators in them like mine - they are expensive tho.
I got a quote for a trailtech vapour with idiot lites & base thing for $300

I think if you did the mods & got rid of the crash bars you'd save a lot of weight & it wouldn't be as vulnerable.

Actually on 2nd thought the plasics weigh bugger all- you'd lose 10kgs of crash bars tho.

I realised why the DR is so different to ride (yeah yeah apart from being more powerful blah blahblah) & that's because on the KLR you lose sight of the front wheel with the screen and also the instrument cluster in the way.

Remember tho the reason you got a KLR - the weather protection on them is pretty good with a taller screen & over a longish day saves you a lot of energy.

I (think I ) want a straighter set of bars set a little further forward - which will foul the existing screen. If it works out I'd probably put on a handlebar mounted givi screen or similar.

the klr is close to where I want it but a little more 'chuckability' off road would be nice provided the on road trade off isn't too great.

I suppose I'm after something like a more spacious DR650 - but without the blandness and without gay connotations that DR ownership implies :yes:

thanks for the responses guys

[NordieBoy]

I should have some more pics of you falling off somewhere...

[marks]

I should have some more pics of you falling off somewhere...

me or Pamei?

[Woodman]

I (think I ) want a straighter set of bars set a little further forward - which will foul the existing screen. If it works out I'd probably put on a handlebar mounted givi screen or similar.

the klr is close to where I want it but a little more 'chuckability' off road would be nice provided the on road trade off isn't too great.

I suppose I'm after something like a more spacious DR650 - but without the blandness and without gay connotations that DR ownership implies :yes:

thanks for the responses guys

Same reason I am thinking of losing my fairing, I have the bars rolled that far forward that they are hitting the fairing. Its amazing in the gnarly stuff how often you need full lock. With mine (pre o8) the screen can be removed but it looks gayer than a gay thing, and I don.t want a DR.:innocent:

[Padmei]

the klr is close to where I want it but a little more 'chuckability' off road would be nice provided the on road trade off isn't too great.



I think that's where one starts heading into the 'should I get a different bike?' scenario. I know where you are coming from as I find mine bloody good offroad (yeah yeah when i'm not falling off hahaha bloody ha) however those tarseal & gravel road cruises to the knarlier stuff is where the KLR excells.

No easy answers as far as I can see