KLR riders out there [Archive] - Page 6

Woodman

31st March 2011, 20:01

I am guessing it was about a $ a cc going on the request from the lovely folk at customs

Yes 685 kit refers to the dollars it cost:facepalm: Customs also charge a Biosecurity levy of $22 plus gst.

Anyway it arrived today and its quite pretty. The casting for the piston is the same JE blank that they use for small block chevys etc. The bore will be 4.035" and a chevy is 4inches(101.6mm) standard. You can even see the castings underneath that accomodate the big valve reliefs that the chevys use. Will get it bored next week and am borrowing a valve compressor this weekend so i can check the head out proper and fit new stem seals and decarb etc. If the valves and seats are ok I will leave them. They should be ok as the rest of the motor looks brand new except for the dusting on the piston.

Woodman

31st March 2011, 20:06

What else was in the order? The 685 kit on its own is 289.95 USD = 380.974 NZD. Under $NZ400 shouldn't attract GST (or has the threshold changed now?)

4 x valve stem seals at $12 usd each plus an exhaust flange gasket. The thermobob arrived last week and I still need to recore the radiator cos its basically squished and has had the fan smash into it at some stage so I'm pretty sure its not working to maximum efficiency so is probly the cause of the overheating issue i was having.

pete376403

31st March 2011, 20:24

A freind is going to the US for a 5 week holiday (biatch) and has offered to bring back a 658 kit for me. Should get away with not doing the valve stem seals as they were done when Kawasaki NZ replaced the rings (oil burning issue)

Thats interesting about the JE SB Chev piston blank. Wonder if one of the NZ speed shops can supply eg these guys http://www.dynamicraceparts.com/

Woodman

31st March 2011, 21:11

Thats interesting about the JE SB Chev piston blank. Wonder if one of the NZ speed shops can supply eg these guys http://www.dynamicraceparts.com/

Pretty sure Schnitz do the machining themselves, but it would be interesting to compare a chevy/ford piston to this one to see how much difference their is. I wouldn'tuse a modified cast chev one as it wouldn't handle the revs. Looking at the new one today, warm up will be more critical with the short skirt and larger clearance forged piston etc.
Marks is yours noisy when its cold?

marks

1st April 2011, 06:48

Marks is yours noisy when its cold?

Nope - gets naggery when its hot though (like they all seem to)
mines done over 25k on the 685 piston (32k on the bike) and I just recently had to add 400ml of oil after 4k which included some particularly abusive riding. No top ups needed prior to that between oil changes.

wish I had a 705 - its sounds much bigger than 685.

Recently put a JE forgred piston into my WR450 and that's much noisier than stock - if it didn't go so well I would be worried that I had fooked things up.

warewolf

2nd April 2011, 13:25

Under $NZ400 shouldn't attract GST (or has the threshold changed now?)Yes and no. Sorta.

The rule was and is: if the combined taxes, duties & fees is below $50.00, it isn't collected. Most stuff for motorbysickles is 0% duty, so at 12.5% GST the limit was $400. Now that GST is 15%, the limit is $333.33. So technically the threshold has not changed, as the threshold is expressed as the tax due not the spend.

stuff.co.nz recently published an article where the "journalist" (if I can be forgiven for misapplying the term) completely and utterly misunderstood this and rabbited on about how a $400 import now gave you $60 GST-free. And that was reporting on a government paper about whether the private import rules were fair and/or hurting local retailers. The retailers want the exemption removed, the consumers wanted the limit to be a $1000 spend, like Aussie. No mention of exchange rate differences, either.

Woodman

2nd April 2011, 16:59

Pulled the valves out of the head today, thinking that all I would need to do was to replace the valve stem seals. WRONG. The inlet valves and seats are in mint condition so i will leave them alone, but the exhausts are another story entirely. The seats are very pitted, probarbly caused by the amount of carbon(from the oil burning) that has got squished between the valve and seat, and they are not seating all the way round. Probly need to check my valve clearances a bit more often e.g. more than once in 20'000km:facepalm::facepalm:. When they were last checked the exhausts were fine and the inlets were tight so I only reshimmed the inlets. When I stick it back together the exhausts will be set at max clearance.

Who round nelson these days is good on bike stuff. e.g. boring the cylinder and the valves and seats etc.? I,m a bit outta touch in that trade nowadays.

getting a very itchy throttle finger

NordieBoy

2nd April 2011, 18:16

Who round nelson these days is good on bike stuff. e.g. boring the cylinder and the valves and seats etc.? I,m a bit outta touch in that trade nowadays.

Vin Orr.

Woodman

2nd April 2011, 19:10

Vin Orr.

yeah but does Vinn do the actual machining there? I remember back in the day doing a bit for him myself.

JATZ

2nd April 2011, 19:39

Who round nelson these days is good on bike stuff.

I used Precision regrinds for the Big. I think they did it in house. Didn't cost much either and they did a good job. Will be using them for the Tenere when it gets bored out too.

NordieBoy

2nd April 2011, 19:43

yeah but does Vinn do the actual machining there? I remember back in the day doing a bit for him myself.

He did my XR rebore.

I think he's doing it from home or something?

Morcs

4th April 2011, 12:23

Anyone done a thermo-bob, or deem it necessary in NZ?

and what oil is recommended - both in terms on reducing oil consumption (i dont get any currently), fuel economy, and temp range (with regards to the cool running of the motor)

Chur.

pete376403

4th April 2011, 19:25

Have a T/bob on my '08.
What it WON"T do - cure overheating.
What it will do - make the engine come up to normal operating temp (in my bikes case, middle of the temp gauge) and maintain it there.
What it might do - prevent uneven wear of the cylinder barrel resulting from uneven cooling or the temperature swings that the standard cooling system is prone to (check the details at Watt-mans site - it's really well documented.

To those who say the t/bob is unecessary, well every other modern* water cooled automotive petrol or diesel engine that I am familiar with uses the same principle.

*for the purpose of the argument I am considering the KLR a "modern" design

Padmei

6th April 2011, 19:48

Does anyone have a stock standard bashplate they've taken off their bike & no longer need? I want to sell Gonzo with one but not the ugly one i've got.

pete376403

6th April 2011, 20:14

Does anyone have a stock standard bashplate they've taken off their bike & no longer need? I want to sell Gonzo with one but not the ugly one i've got.
Could swap (with cash diff your way) for a slightly broken (bit missing below the gear lever) standard one

Taz

7th April 2011, 19:42

Could swap (with cash diff your way) for a slightly broken (bit missing below the gear lever) standard one

Have you not seen his bash plate?

Padmei

7th April 2011, 19:48

Yeah Tas is right -mine is pretty ugly (so I've been told- I made it so it's a thing of beauty to me) besides which the price of ali plate is horrendous so It'll probably morph into a BMW one.

I will wait & maybe try to sell it without one. I just thought those who have changed theirs may have their old one around.

marks

7th April 2011, 20:48

I just thought those who have changed theirs may have their old one around.

which we will put back on when we try and make our bikes appear like they've never been off road when we try and sell them....

Box'a'bits

7th April 2011, 21:12

which we will put back on when we try and make our bikes appear like they've never been off road when we try and sell them....
excepting for those people who have thoroughly munted their bashplates, & are now forced to use a HONDA bashplate. Which they admit is an upgrade :killingme

marks

7th April 2011, 22:15

excepting for those people who have thoroughly munted their bashplates, & are now forced to use a HONDA bashplate. Which they admit is an upgrade :killingme

some of those people who have fitted Honda bashplates to their KLR's have since broken/bent all the bash plate mountings and changed the shape of their Honda bashplates :innocent:

the DT230 is really slumming it - its bashplate is off a BMW.....

Morcs

11th April 2011, 11:26

Im selling my KLR guys, found a sports bike that ive wanted for agges in perfect nic, so sadly its gonna go.

However,

I have for sale some spares that i was accumulating prior to my 12000km service, amongst other things.

NEW Eaglemike DOO kit $100
Front Pads - OEM Nissan HH sintered (brand new) $70 ($80+ from dealer)
K&N Oil filter and NGK Iridium plug NEW $20
Dririder Summit Pro jacket Small (brand new condition, mac daddy jacket) $250 (rrp $399)
FFM matrix adventure helmet with clear and smoked visor (1 month old, mint) $150 (rrp $250)

Anyone interested in the KLR, lemme know. 2009, hasnt burned a drop of oil, 11,000kms, ZG screen, givi crash bars, top box, good tyres, headlight protector, heated grips, stomp grip. Looking for $9k.

marks

12th April 2011, 08:52

Im selling my KLR guys, found a sports bike that ive wanted for agges in perfect nic, so sadly its gonna go.

Looking for $9k.

so you are selling one sportbike to buy another....

Good luck with the sale although I suspect that with the current market you may be being a little ambitious on price

:bye:

Morcs

12th April 2011, 08:58

so you are selling one sportbike to buy another....

Good luck with the sale although I suspect that with the current market you may be being a little ambitious on price

:bye:

Yup. Ive sold a lotta bikes, I dont think ill have too much trouble shifting this for $8k - put 9 as the asking price to give neg room.

Padmei

12th April 2011, 16:39

Yup. Ive sold a lotta bikes, I dont think ill have too much trouble shifting this for $8k - put 9 as the asking price to give neg room.

You may want to keep an eye on this one then to see how the market views them. it started with a $1 Reserve

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=366966277

There have been a few at $6k that haven't had any nibbles on.
Best of luck with the sale

Eddieb

12th April 2011, 16:45

You may want to keep an eye on this one then to see how the market views them. it started with a $1 Reserve

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=366966277

There have been a few at $6k that haven't had any nibbles on.
Best of luck with the sale

Agree with the guys above. I can't sell my KTM 950 Adventure at $8750 and almost had to give my GS away. It's a hard market out there. There's a lot of bikes just coming up again and again and not selling.

marks

12th April 2011, 20:09

You may want to keep an eye on this one then to see how the market views them. it started with a $1 Reserve

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=366966277

There have been a few at $6k that haven't had any nibbles on.
Best of luck with the sale

Don't go posting that here
that's my future spares bike :yes:

what you hoping to get got yours?

I can't sell my KTM 950 Adventure at $8750 and almost had to give my GS away.

Yes but we're talking real bikes - not eurotrash

Crim

12th April 2011, 21:41

Yes but we're talking real bikes - not eurotrash

+1 :woohoo:

Woodman

12th April 2011, 22:14

Thats why i won't sell mine. Just not worth anything at the moment (or ever). Even with the farkles I,d probly be lucky to see $2k. better off saving my pennies and getting a second trailer trash bike.

Eddieb

20th April 2011, 22:20

Hey Woodman

I think your brother is selling his bike: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-370551896.htm

Woodman

20th April 2011, 22:39

Hey Woodman

I think your brother is selling his bike: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-370551896.htm

Migh keep an eye on it, just for the wheels alone.

Woodman

23rd April 2011, 17:49

Its ALIVE

ftcr.....

NordieBoy

23rd April 2011, 18:25

Its ALIVE

Tied it to the bench and waited for the lightning?

Woodman

25th April 2011, 13:52

Just buttoned the beast together and took it for its first run with the 685 kit installed. Definitely goes better and makes a different noise too. The tappets are a bit rattly, but I expected that cos I set the exhausts at .0015" above maximum, will see how that progresses.

The thermobob took longer to fit than the head. Pain in the ass fiddly bloody job and luckily I had some spare 3/4 heater hose floating round the shed. It seems to be doing its job though.

I gotta say that a klr engine is one of the simplest and straight forward engines there is to work on. Nothing hard at all, it just about fell together.

let the riding begin. (after running in of course).

pete376403

25th April 2011, 21:47

Do you find it comes up to operating temperature quicker and remains at that point?

Woodman

25th April 2011, 21:58

Do you find it comes up to operating temperature quicker and remains at that point?

Yes it steadily rises to 88degrees C and pretty much stayed there. I went for a 30km road only run in ride this arvo and it didn't move. Even when the road turned to deep mud and river bed:facepalm: and the going was slow it only went up to 89.

I put the wonky radiator back on and it will have to do for the winter, and I will get it recored for the summer when my bikin fund gets a bit healthier.

The 685 kit really changes how the bike goes, real smooth too.

Padmei

25th April 2011, 22:02

Smooth enough to do the next XC?

Woodman

25th April 2011, 22:05

Smooth enough to do the next XC?

Its a road bike now.:sick:

Padmei

25th April 2011, 22:11

Fair enough. I'll get Schmidtty up & running & we can... um... do whatever road riders do I spose...

NordieBoy

26th April 2011, 08:16

Fair enough. I'll get Schmidtty up & running & we can... um... do whatever road riders do I spose...

Mud, water crossings and hills by the sounds of it.

Padmei

26th April 2011, 20:18

Mud, water crossings and hills by the sounds of it.

Here's me thinking i'd be wearing tight leathers & filling up at every gas station.

oh BTW I'm really really badassed - a ticket was waiting for me at home for doing 55kms in the work van :facepalm:- this is after being pulled over a few weeks ago in the brethy bus full of kids for doing 80kmh in a 100k zone :facepalm:- had nothing to with having a cop up my jacksie at all:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:

Oh the shame:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:

Woodman

26th April 2011, 21:41

Ok, I just tried my leather jacket on that I got when I was 18 and it seems to have shrunk since last century, so possibly just possibly I just may try taking it a wee way off road cos I just haven't a thing to wear for road riding.

Nordie, have you still got those usd forks there for me to look at /measure up etc.?

NordieBoy

26th April 2011, 22:12

Here's me thinking i'd be wearing tight leathers & filling up at every gas station.
Well that sounds more like the KLX with road tyres...

Nordie, have you still got those usd forks there for me to look at /measure up etc.?
Yep. I'll just have to have a look around and see where I put them.

Oh yeah, the floor based storage system.

I may need to nick the rim though. The TT one is pretty grotty inside.

Woodman

30th April 2011, 18:06

Put some more miles on the beast today and shit its running nice (mostly)

It is still getting hot when I ride slow or waiting at lights etc so the radiator needs to be replaced or recored which I knew so thats okay. The good news is the thermobob is really working in that the temp does not drop below 88 whereas it used to get in the 70's.(No Nordie not flared trousers type 70's) so the massive temp fluctuations aren't there now.

The only issue now is that it is hard to start when its hot. Was trying to start it this arvo and was just sitting on the bike giving the starter a rest when it backfired by itself. I hit the starter and it started . Weird.
Any ideas? possible vacuum leak ?

Padmei

30th April 2011, 19:14

I would guess the reed valves need to be resealed or re seated.
I wouldflush the tank with antifreeze first to make sure there aren't any residual microbes from the diesel. You did prerun it with diesel first didn't you?
Check the points, their tangents & the crosshairs for accuracy.
Tighten up the batteryterminals & smear with low cholesterol spread - don't use anything with free radicals.

You may find when you had it apart the spacing between the crack & pinion in the cam may have been altered unintentionally. I may be wrong but I think a 2.5mm Oring can be substituted if the original waxed crack has perished.

If the new oil has any acidic properties (will show on the label under additives starting with 30xxx) then an effervescent additive will bring the ph level to a more acceptable level.

Hope this helps

NordieBoy

30th April 2011, 19:26

I would guess the reed valves need to be resealed or re seated...............
Tooooo much sugar in the milo....
:Punk:

Woodman

30th April 2011, 19:38

pete376403

30th April 2011, 19:45

Woodman

30th April 2011, 20:02

Backfired through the carb or in the exhaust?
Through the carb ususally points to ignition timing too far advanced but there's no facility to manually adjust the timing on the KLR, is there?
Firing in the exhaust is (usually) an air leak that allows enough fresh air into the pipe to burn any unburned fuel, if there is something hot enough to ignite it.

Does your bike have the air injection valve that bleeds air into the exhaust port? If yes, has this been removed, and if yes again, has the hole into the port been plugged?

Its back firing through the exhaust, and mine doesn't have the fresh air thingy.

I am pretty sure, now that I think about it that it is that dumass plastic choke cable connection thing on the side of the carby that is nigh on impossible to tighten. In my haste to get a shot out of it I may:innocent: have not tightened it proper.

pete376403

30th April 2011, 20:10

In that case I'd try the things that Padmei suggests.

According to the KLR forums (fora?) the plastic choke thing can be replaced with a Harley part which is metal and doesn't break

Eddieb

30th April 2011, 20:20

......the plastic choke thing can be replaced with a Harley part

There are so many comparisons and pisstakes possible with that statement that I'm not sure where to start.

Padmei

30th April 2011, 21:02

There are so many comparisons and pisstakes possible with that statement that I'm not sure where to start.

Go on give us one. I can't think of any...

Padmei

30th April 2011, 21:13

Just as a quick hijack from Woodmans probs.

I fitted a set of Renthal Enduro highs handlebars on the KLX today & they are awesome. They would prob be the closest aftermarket bar to the original KLR steel bars. Their rise is 130mm vs the CR High's 90mm. If you are tall & like to stand straight, if fitted with 40mm risers they are the business.
You would have to get the dealers to call the importers as most shops seem to think the CRhighs are the highest ones available - I did a fair bit of researching & they used to be called 'Dakar's
They cost $149 local but online you can get them delivered for $121 (GST mayapply) from overseas.

Back to the popping prob.

marks

30th April 2011, 21:37

Its back firing through the exhaust, and mine doesn't have the fresh air thingy.

I am pretty sure, now that I think about it that it is that dumass plastic choke cable connection thing on the side of the carby that is nigh on impossible to tighten. In my haste to get a shot out of it I may:innocent: have not tightened it proper.

what about cam timing - could a cam being 1 tooth out cause hard hot starting?

Woodman

30th April 2011, 21:40

There are so many comparisons and pisstakes possible with that statement that I'm not sure where to start.

Just doing some research and apparantly the same choke mechanism from Kawasaki in the states is about 3 times the price for a harley one and they are the same part.

DR 350 chokes fit too, gets rid of the cable etc.

Woodman

30th April 2011, 21:43

what about cam timing - could a cam being 1 tooth out cause hard hot starting?

Possibly, but their is no way that a cam is a tooth out. You would have to be blind to do that.

pete376403

1st May 2011, 18:41

what about cam timing - could a cam being 1 tooth out cause hard hot starting?
Probably cause hard cold starting too, with valve heads and piston collisions going on.

How about the auto decompressor mech on the end of the exhaust cam - that working correctly?

Woodman

6th May 2011, 17:45

Fixed the hot starting problem:facepalm:

Then went for a hoon up to the top of the maungatap.

Runs like a dream.

NordieBoy

6th May 2011, 19:51

Fixed the hot starting problem:facepalm:
Do tell :sherlock:

Runs like a dream.
Which dream?

Crim

6th May 2011, 19:52

Fixed the hot starting problem:facepalm:
Runs like a dream.

What was it?

Glad to hear she is running like a dream!

Got my first speeding ticket on my KLR yesterday :facepalm:

Woodman

6th May 2011, 20:38

Do tell :sherlock:

Which dream?

Actually didn't find anything significant except that the rear carb boot was sorta not on one side of the carb and was sorta inside the carb sorta.:facepalm: Still don't see why that made it hard to start hot as its not the vacuum side , but maybe I inadvertantly fixed a vacuum leak when the carb was off today.

Crim , bugger about the ticket. Had a first myself today in that I accidentally did a wheelie on the road without trying. 685 kit yeah:headbang:

NordieBoy

6th May 2011, 20:53

Ouch. Lucky it hasn't been dusty the last few days then...

Or would it help bed the new rings in :o

Woodman

6th May 2011, 20:59

Found it prior to the maunga ride, that was the acid test.

very wary of dust now, to wit the K& N will be for winter use only now.

Crim

6th May 2011, 21:07

very wary of dust now

Talking of dust and other stuff getting in (water) - I drilled a couple of holes in my side covers so I wouldn't have to take the covers (and pannier racks) off to remove the seat. But, after I went (succesfully) through a ford the other day that tripped up my travelling companion (not naming names) and we undrowned his steed I had real trouble starting mine, which is really unusual, and was wondering if any water splashed through my little hole into the intake - reckon that might be a reason for hard to start, or am I down the wrong track?

Woodman

6th May 2011, 21:18

Talking of dust and other stuff getting in (water) - I drilled a couple of holes in my side covers so I wouldn't have to take the covers (and pannier racks) off to remove the seat. But, after I went (succesfully) through a ford the other day that tripped up my travelling companion (not naming names) and we undrowned his steed I had real trouble starting mine, which is really unusual, and was wondering if any water splashed through my little hole into the intake - reckon that might be a reason for hard to start, or am I down the wrong track?

Don't really think that would make any difference. The intake is very exposed to dust and mud and water being splashed off the rear wheel as it is. have you ever had a look in your airbox after a deep watery ride? theres generally a fair bit of mud and shit in there in my experience.

Hint: install your snorkel upside down and you will be able to go thru water an inch or so deeper.
have you done the t (y) mod?

Crim

6th May 2011, 21:38

Don't really think that would make any difference. The intake is very exposed to dust and mud and water being splashed off the rear wheel as it is. have you ever had a look in your airbox after a deep watery ride? theres generally a fair bit of mud and shit in there in my experience.

Hint: install your snorkel upside down and you will be able to go thru water an inch or so deeper.
have you done the t (y) mod?

I have seen the last issue of Kiwirider and realise that you have a lot of experience in deep watery rides :innocent: - WTF is the t (y) mod or do we talk in code to keep the DR pretenders in the dark?

Woodman

6th May 2011, 22:04

I have seen the last issue of Kiwirider and realise that you have a lot of experience in deep watery rides :innocent: - WTF is the t (y) mod or do we talk in code to keep the DR pretenders in the dark?

No need to speak in code around DR riders, they have trouble compehending normal speak.

Any way the T(y) mod is where you put a t piece in the vent tube that comes from the carb and hangs under the bike and run another piece of hose from the tee up high or into the airbox. Mine goes right up and sits by the headlight.
What it does is stop the vent tube from blocking when under water and stalling the bike. If you can easily go through footpeg deep water without the bike stopping then it may have already been done. When I first got mine it stopped every time I went through a semi deep creek. It would not start until I pushed it onto dry ground where hey presto it would start with one push of the button.
Drove me nuts till I found out what was happening.

Crim

6th May 2011, 22:27

Drove me nuts till I found out what was happening.

went through OK - was just after I went through and then stopped for 10 or so minutes and then was very strange to start - must have got excited and flooded it (felt like that just a little bit worse) - having said that did stall it in the next crossing :facepalm: so will check the carb vent

Talking of vents - took the fuel tank right of the other day (as opposed to flipping it over) - that vent is a pain to get back in! In the end I just kept twisting, poking and hoping (take that out of context - :gob:) - still don't know if it is in right

NordieBoy

6th May 2011, 22:58

On the TT, I've T'd one of the carb vent lines up into the frame backbone and it's then looped back on itself and held looped over by a snug (not tight) cable tie.

Haven't done the DR but have a couple of T's ready...

Padmei

7th May 2011, 08:29

Talking of vents - took the fuel tank right of the other day (as opposed to flipping it over) - that vent is a pain to get back in! In the end I just kept twisting, poking and hoping (take that out of context - :gob:) - still don't know if it is in right

You mean threading the pipe thru the body work or actually sliding it back on the metal tube? My one slips right on.

Woodman

7th May 2011, 09:14

Mine goes on easy as well. It has no clip on it now so that makes it easier and it doesn't come off, the vacuum keeps it sucked on.

Padmei

7th May 2011, 13:38

Mine goes on easy as well. It has no clip on it now so that makes it easier and it doesn't come off, the vacuum keeps it sucked on.

And you wonder why they're so heavy... sigh...

Crim

7th May 2011, 14:56

You mean threading the pipe thru the body work or actually sliding it back on the metal tube? My one slips right on.

threading it back through the bodywork - reckon next time I'll take it off at the tank
:blink:

Crim

8th May 2011, 19:41

Just been reading this RR on ADVrider

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=653492&page=53

and noticed this quote on the turkish dudes signature,

A heavy motorcycle is the equivalent of a fat ballerina...

:laugh: had to share it with "the bretheren" .................. :blink:........... wonder if they do a KLR tutu :facepalm:

Woodman

15th May 2011, 09:54

Don,t wanna get everyones hopes up, but the diesel version may well be here soon ex India.

can't wait:shutup:

Padmei

15th May 2011, 10:04

Read a good (as usual) column from Nash in kiwirider/biker whateveritscalled magazine.
He brought up a good point where diesels would be ideal for crusiers given the low down torque matched the riding style. He also went on to say that any developments would come fromthe world of hi tech racing. Pugeot I think are running a LeMans car on Diesel & doing pretty well.

Sure the benefits may be good but the smell & ticking sound still take me back to those terrible days over 30years ago hanging onto the back of a truck doing the milk run in the middle of a wet Auckland winter. So sorry not for me

Crim

15th May 2011, 10:12

can't wait:shutup:

Me too, the old girl tractors up a lot at the moment - a diesel with a low gearing (might need a sixth gear) she would go anywhere - safari tank and you could do the DB without filling up - but would you need to buy road miles (or is that still a loop hole)

NordieBoy

15th May 2011, 18:21

Pugeot I think are running a LeMans car on Diesel & doing pretty well.

All the top cars are diesel.
Porsche, Pugeot...

Woodman

15th May 2011, 18:39

pete376403

15th May 2011, 19:35

All the top cars are diesel.
Porsche, Pugeot...
Audi have won 24Hrs Le Mans race 9 times with a diesel, going for 10th
http://www.lemans.org/en/news/Audi-R18-aiming-at-a-10th-Le-Mans-win_2525.html
I would be very happy with a diesel KLR, if I could get one with out having to join USMC

pete376403

15th May 2011, 19:42

Just been reading this RR on ADVrider

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=653492&page=53

and noticed this quote on the turkish dudes signature,
:laugh: had to share it with "the bretheren" .................. :blink:........... wonder if they do a KLR tutu :facepalm:

Same guy also says :"I'm just a persistent victim of ktm's meta-bad product quality and worldwide uber-lack of service training. I would get rid of my 690 in a milisecond ---IF--- I could find a substitute, but in the alarmingly growing world of two wheeled trucks no such luck so far."
and
"My Dream bike is a 690 entirely manufactured by Japanese..."

Not everyone thinks orange = perfect

pete376403

15th May 2011, 19:44

Don,t wanna get everyones hopes up, but the diesel version may well be here soon ex India.

can't wait:shutup:

Links needed

Never mind - found it.
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1005000

Padmei

15th May 2011, 20:03

Is anyone with a 08+ workshop manual able to scan the fork disassembly & assembly pages & email it to me? I have the previous models manual however one of the only changes are the forks - I want to make sure the internals are the same, as the dustcap & seal are in different order on mine compared to the manual.

I will repay with chocolate fish upon our next meeting.

pete376403

15th May 2011, 21:04

http://www.kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.aspx?strContentURL=/Site/VIVehicleInformation/VIepc.asp?intCatalogID%3d2%26CatalogTypeID%3d4%26P roductTypeID%3d11%26ModelMarketingID%3d124%26Model Code%3dKL650E8F%26ModelYear%3d2008%26SHOWVEHTABS%3 d1

Parts manual at kawasaki.com

warewolf

15th May 2011, 22:22

Same guy also says :"I'm just a persistent victim of ktm's meta-bad product quality and worldwide uber-lack of service training. I would get rid of my 690 in a milisecond ---IF--- I could find a substitute, but in the alarmingly growing world of two wheeled trucks no such luck so far."
and
"My Dream bike is a 690 entirely manufactured by Japanese..."

Not everyone thinks orange = perfectDunno anyone that does. But like many ppl he did say he's got it because it was the best compromise on offer. :Pokey:

For lack of service training, read "new". The guys in Nelson were trained on the 690 engine before they had any bikes in the shop, so it's not a universal problem.

Crim

16th May 2011, 20:15

Never mind - found it.

Also found this.........:yes:

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2009/04/diesel-motorcycle-track-t-800cdi-eva-holland-europe.php

only $32k or so before you even look at freight or taxes

NordieBoy

16th May 2011, 20:41

Woodman

16th May 2011, 22:05

Also found this.........:yes:

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2009/04/diesel-motorcycle-track-t-800cdi-eva-holland-europe.php

only $32k or so before you even look at freight or taxes

What the frick is it with the exhaust sticking out the front????? Thats gotta be one of the ugliest bikes ever.Moron designers.
Its the same with electric cars of a few years ago, they designed them so ugly looking that no one would ever buy one for fear of being laughed at. Possible oil company conspiracy theory??

Crim

17th May 2011, 06:06

What the frick is it with the exhaust sticking out the front?????

Yeah saw that - reckon you could re run to more conventional place (where it is you could maybe go through a ford 4 - 5 inches deep before you got into trouble) so the price is now up to $35k:facepalm: so waiting for a diesel KLR from the sub continent might be the go (cos we all know they are uber sexy:woohoo:)

Padmei

17th May 2011, 07:42

That is some kind of KTM/ guzzi hybrid. Checkout the tank/front guard & the stressed engine/very lovely looking driveshaft.

Actually the first time I looked at it I thought it was the ugliest bike I'd seen but reallythere are a lot of good looking parts. The engine looks quite cool.
The cockpit looks pretty ugly imho.

Crim

17th May 2011, 09:59

Actually the first time I looked at it I thought it was the ugliest bike I'd seen but reallythere are a lot of good looking parts. The engine looks quite cool.
The cockpit looks pretty ugly imho.

I am starting to think that this is the bomb (is that what the youngsters are saying these day?) - turbo diesel with CVT - how would that go?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh1hjIYPHjQ

pete376403

17th May 2011, 20:38

Altius Automotive (the Indian company that is talking aout building Hayes diesels) has another engine as well - 1340 flat twin. Repower those old BMWs!
http://altiusautomotive.com/engine.php

Crim

17th May 2011, 21:27

Altius Automotive (the Indian company that is talking aout building Hayes diesels)

I love the typical indian by line;

The ultra refined chassis coupled with the award winning diesel engine makes this the most versatile vehicle both on and off road. Powered by the award winning 670cc diesel engine, this "take-me-anywhere" is a perfect companion for your travel plans spawned with spontaneity.

Woodman

29th May 2011, 09:34

This kind of thing happens to me all the time. One of the curses of riding a KLR.
I wonder if it happens to other brand riders as well?

239748

Crim

29th May 2011, 09:56

This kind of thing happens to me all the time. One of the curses of riding a KLR.
I wonder if it happens to other brand riders as well?

239748

You soon learn riding "the most powerful dual sport motorcycle in the world" that you WILL be mobbed - which is nice down at the beach in Nelson but not quite so nice when you slow down at the lights beside a weight watchers meeting in Wairoa :facepalm: or indeed you go anywhere near the Gay Pride March :facepalm: :facepalm:
I just carry a big stick with me, to stop that sort of malarky happening and put her indoors' mind at ease :yes:

GPS MAN

29th May 2011, 11:01

I am starting to think that this is the bomb (is that what the youngsters are saying these day?) - turbo diesel with CVT - how would that go?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh1hjIYPHjQ

I like it :yes: Still waiting on the Diesel KLR.....:scooter: Sometimes I think I have one already:facepalm:

warewolf

29th May 2011, 15:46

This kind of thing happens to me all the time.Thought I recognised you in that black bikini. :sick: ATGATT?

PS What DID you get up to in Thailand? Some surgery perhaps?!

Woodman

29th May 2011, 17:23

Thought I recognised you in that black bikini. :sick: ATGATT?

PS What DID you get up to in Thailand? Some surgery perhaps?!

Sort of a matching set.

KLR650 = Made in Thailand. Modified in new Zealand.
Woodman= Made in New Zealand. Modified in Thailand.

BTW. To minimise gossip and inuendo I came back with all the same bits I left with.

Crim

29th May 2011, 18:16

BTW. To minimise gossip and inuendo I came back with all the same bits I left with.

All in the same place, or were some hand luggage?

Crim

3rd June 2011, 07:27

Woodman

3rd June 2011, 08:23

Bloody Nordie has got me on to eBay - I tell you, the minister of finance is :angry: anyway got some foot pegs for cheap (ordered yesterday) and now looking at a aluminium bash plate - reckon it will be here for NZD$150 - what do you reckon? Bargain or could you get 'em closer for less?

Thats a pretty good price, and a necessary farkle. My original plastic one didn't last long at all, in fact the aluminium one I got now looks like it needs replacing soonish.

marks

3rd June 2011, 08:24

NordieBoy

3rd June 2011, 08:25

Thats a pretty good price, and a necessary farkle. My original plastic one didn't last long at all, in fact the aluminium one I got now looks like it needs replacing soonish.

You talking about bash plates or handle bars?

:devil2:

marks

3rd June 2011, 08:30

Thats a pretty good price, and a necessary farkle. My original plastic one didn't last long at all, in fact the aluminium one I got now looks like it needs replacing soonish.

Ditto

I think that the klr is pretty hard on bash plates - the ground clearance aint that flash

Woodman

3rd June 2011, 08:30

does anyone know where I could get a klr back wheel from?

I want a roady wheel on one and a knobby on the other

apparently the pre 08 wheels fit (just thinner spokes) - you have to get the newer style disk.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-379971005.htm

marks

3rd June 2011, 09:55

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-379971005.htm

it had already occurred to me

as a 'spares' bike its probably only worth about $4k (thats assuming he never let you ride it)

I suspect it might sell easier if he had painted it black.

thepom

3rd June 2011, 11:21

Thats not a bad price for a bike that year and kms....

Crim

3rd June 2011, 11:34

Thats not a bad price for a bike that year and kms....

Kenny, you are tring to shrink your bike fleet mate :facepalm:

thepom

3rd June 2011, 12:53

ha ha I know and as soon as the blackbird gets out from Honda Hampton that will be up for sale too.....

Woodman

5th June 2011, 18:51

topo

5th June 2011, 20:40

The importance of doing your wheel bearings proper.

fFcuk knows how this guy let this go on for so long. I can tell you from experience that the sprocket bolts eating through the swingarm makes one hell of a racket.

Any more photos/link? there's gotta be more to it than just dodgy bearings! i've had the rear brake on the drz lock up in a xc to the point where the motor wouldn't turn the rear wheel (well cooked brake fluid) which left the swing arm very hot to the touch but i just can't see that kind of dammage being caused by a bearing.

Woodman

5th June 2011, 21:09

He reckons he may have left a spacer out, but it looks very similar to what happened to me. Eventually the sprocket carrier rubs away on the swing arm. There was melted aluminium on mine that I had to chisel off but to get it to this stage amazes me.

Link http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=692513

FlangMasterJ

5th June 2011, 21:47

This kind of thing happens to me all the time. One of the curses of riding a KLR.
I wonder if it happens to other brand riders as well?

239748

Wonder why that never happened to me when I had my KLR?

<a href="http://s25.photobucket.com/albums/c52/FlangMasterJ/?action=view&current=Untitled-1lol.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c52/FlangMasterJ/Untitled-1lol.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

pete376403

5th June 2011, 22:33

That must have sounded like World War III going off. Or even if the rider had the I-Pod plugged and and playing death-metal thrash at full bore, surely the vibration must have been felt through the pegs and bars...unless he was a KTM rider in another life and considered more or less normal.

NordieBoy

7th June 2011, 07:16

Maybe they just had a Jardine can...

marks

7th June 2011, 08:07

Maybe they just had a Jardine can...

comments like that fall on deaf ears.....

Woodman

7th June 2011, 08:49

comments like that fall on deaf ears.....

So , pretty much everyone who has followed you.:shutup:

checked my sprocket hub bearing on Saturday. Notchy and loose. It was put in before the db1k so about 3k old. The other bearings were perfect.

Has anyone got a sprocket hub they want to part with cos mines a bit fcuked really and is probly contributing towards the premature failure of the bearing.

Padmei

7th June 2011, 10:32

Woodman

7th June 2011, 15:09

what about locktight?

I am loctiting it in cos the hole expanded out and never contracted when it failed so the bearing is a nice slip fit now. Loctite holds it there just fine for the duration and to be honest I prefer that sort of fit than a straight press fit anyway.

Padmei

7th June 2011, 16:37

marks

7th June 2011, 19:24

So , pretty much everyone who has followed you.:shutup:

checked my sprocket hub bearing on Saturday. Notchy and loose. It was put in before the db1k so about 3k old. The other bearings were perfect.

Has anyone got a sprocket hub they want to part with cos mines a bit fcuked really and is probly contributing towards the premature failure of the bearing.

I've replaced my cush drive bearing 3 times in the last 10K KM and my cush drive rubbers once.

seems to be a weak point on these beasties

lets go halves in Padmei's white chundermobile - you can have the hub and I''ll take the rest...

Howie

7th June 2011, 21:38

I've replaced my cush drive bearing 3 times in the last 10K KM and my cush drive rubbers once.

seems to be a weak point on these beasties

lets go halves in Padmei's white chundermobile - you can have the hub and I''ll take the rest...

I haven't replaced any of my rear wheel bearings yet, Am just starting to think about it as a preventive maintenance item at 35,000 km, still no movement in them. They do get checked/ cleaned and regreased at wheel changes. Haven't changed the cush drive rubbers yet ever. Maybe I’m just gentle on my machinery??

Woodman

7th June 2011, 21:42

I haven't replaced my cush drive rubbers yet either. Admittedly they are well and truly fcuked but I haven't replaced them.

pete376403

7th June 2011, 22:09

I was going to put this in the thread about the "new Suzuki adv bike" but it really belongs here - this is what Kawasaki should be building. Apart from the Suzuki DRZ400 forks, R1 rear shock and the (I think) 'Strom wheels its a Kawi parts bin special. Would not be so good as a a single tracker but as an adventure bike "any road, any time" (good for highways as well as gravel/back roads I could live with it.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=644390

warewolf

7th June 2011, 23:08

I am loctiting it in cos the hole expanded out and never contracted when it failed so the bearing is a nice slip fit now. Loctite holds it there just fine for the duration and to be honest I prefer that sort of fit than a straight press fit anyway.I'm probably teaching you to suck eggs, but just in case: there is 'gap filler' type loctite that helps for bearings with excessive clearance to the hub.

warewolf

7th June 2011, 23:13

I've replaced my cush drive bearing 3 times in the last 10K KMThat does sound excessive. Do you do many water crossings? That's the worst for them. Maybe should be a 1-2000km service job to regrease them?

Also, even new seals won't work if the spacers they run on are grooved.

warewolf

7th June 2011, 23:16

fFcuk knows how this guy let this go on for so long.Fcuk me! People without mechanical empathy should not be let near motorbikes; as rider, as pillion nor as mechanic!

I bet that swingarm ends up on a dealer's "customers from hell" wall.

marks

8th June 2011, 12:25

That does sound excessive. Do you do many water crossings? That's the worst for them. Maybe should be a 1-2000km service job to regrease them?

Also, even new seals won't work if the spacers they run on are grooved.

yes - lots of muddy water and I also tend to ride with large throttle openings at low revs which I think its pretty hard on the entire drive line. I'm trying different bearings (was using all-balls - now using nachi) and so far so good.

Always (intend to) repack at each tire change.

Howie

25th June 2011, 21:25

Was a day in the shed today. Fitted a Motobatt AGM battery, and a relay for the hot grips today.

The Motobatt brand is 2mm higher than standard, so I had to leave the plastic Battery box cover off, and fashioned a more flexible piece of plastic to slide over the top of the battery, seems to work fine at holding the battery in place.

The Relay I used in true KLR owner form was an old one that was sitting in a box of spare parts from a car, wired the feed to the relay into the tail light circuit and the main feed to the Hot grips from the battery and through the relay. The good thing is now I don't have to remember to turn the hot grips off when i stop.

Also found this LINK (http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm) to how a Keihin CVK40 works which seems reasonable accurate, and easy to follow

marks

25th June 2011, 23:26

Was a day in the shed today. Fitted a Motobatt AGM battery

Cost?

my klr battery seems to be getting a bit sad

Woodman

25th June 2011, 23:29

Cost?

my klr battery seems to be getting a bit sad

Woodman tip:

Always check the battery water level after each ride that the bike becomes inverted?

Howie

25th June 2011, 23:38

Cost?

my klr battery seems to be getting a bit sad

It was $130 at TSS, I was just having a look at pricing a new one,but they had one in stock.... Description of the one I got HERE (http://www.motobattbatteries.com/motorcycle-battery/kawasaki/650cc/kawasaki-kl650-a-e-klr-1987-2008/motobatt-mbtx14au.html).

My original one was getting a bit sad too, one of the middle cells seem to like drying out regularly, and leaving the hot grips on a few times didn't help:mad:

Padmei

29th June 2011, 20:41

Hey guys
Little teardrops are exploding over my keyboard as I type.
Today the bike movers took Gonzo away to his new home up North. I couldn't be there when he was loaded up as it was too much to take.

Apparently Bec said it had a lovely old cool Matchless to keep it company. That makes me feel a little better.

He was a great mate & we had some good times - he didn't cry out in pain when I dropped him or even mind hanging out with DRs.

Vale Gonzo mi amigo

Can I still hang out with you guys tho? You guys are cool - in a stubbies & singlet kinda way:yes:

Woodman

29th June 2011, 21:02

Sad day indeed.

We will still let you hang out with the cool crowd.

NordieBoy

29th June 2011, 21:35

And may the new owner have as much fun and never stumble upon these pics :facepalm:

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20081206%20Ulysses%20Toy%20Run/slides/20081206-104900-000026.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20090103%20Dusty%20Butt%202009/slides/20090103-100314-000050.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20090103%20Dusty%20Butt%202009/slides/20090104-160914-000435.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20090213%20Big%20River%20Rideout/slides/20090214-145929-000062.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20090325%20Sharlands-Maungatapu/slides/20090325-175745.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20090315%20Kikiwa%20Laidback/slides/20090315-112630.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20090315%20Kikiwa%20Laidback/slides/20090315-113611.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20090502%20Rescue%20Helicopter%20Run/slides/20090502-110559.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20091205%20Xmas%20Toy%20Run/slides/20091205-102109-0009.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20100321%20Hira/slides/20100321-160605-0004.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20100314%20Wairoa%20Gorge/slides/20100314-174608.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20100627%20Ben%20Nevis%20Rideout/slides/20100627-105959-0027.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20100822%20Hira/slides/20100822-131535.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20100918%20Playing%20around/slides/20100918-114234.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20101010%20Anatori%20Blast/slides/20101010-122725.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20101010%20Anatori%20Blast/slides/20101010-160239.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20101030%20Clarence%20River%20Ride/slides/20101030-131249.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20101030%20Clarence%20River%20Ride/slides/20101030-134945.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20101030%20Clarence%20River%20Ride/slides/20101030-153240.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20101125%20NADS%20Evening%20Ride%20-%20Maungatapu/slides/20101124-183956-0090b.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20101125%20NADS%20Evening%20Ride%20-%20Maungatapu/slides/20101124-182712-0003.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20101216%20NADS%20Evening%20Ride%20-%20Tinline/slides/20101216-173811-0014.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20101216%20NADS%20Evening%20Ride%20-%20Tinline/slides/20101216-192636-0041.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20110129%20Airstrip%20hunting/slides/20110129-161153.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20110212%20Gorse%20and%20Gorser/slides/20110212-120417.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20110212%20Gorse%20and%20Gorser/slides/20110212-134111.jpg

http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20110219%20NADS%20Maungatapu%20Ride/slides/20110219-142618-0021.jpg

:drinkup:

marks

30th June 2011, 09:05

Awesome photos Fran

I think Padmei will look back and regret selling the KLR

not just because its a klr (although they are easy to get attached to in a 'fart under the dinner table Labrador' kind of way) but because of all the great rides he has taken it on.

some bikes are 'appliances' that may perform the job much more efficiently but the overweight, top heavy, slow klr is a bike with personality - you either love it or hate it

JATZ

30th June 2011, 18:16

Yip... some good pics there Nordie :yes: and some good memories :sunny:

I remember the Kikiwa incident like it was yesterday :D, and Padders turning up to the XC with little more than a racing slick on the front :shit:

Good times, here's to Gonzo :drinkup:

warewolf

30th June 2011, 19:51

And may the new owner have as much fun and never stumble upon these pics :facepalm:Should have titled that set, "Gonzo vs Gravity" :lol:

Some bikes you always remember with fondness, I'm sure this is one.
(even if they get lighter and faster with time)

Padmei

30th June 2011, 19:54

That's an awesome tribute Nordie. Thanks for that- I appreciate the time taken to put it together. Can you email me a linkto the black & white shot-that's mint.

You guys are right I will miss Gonzo. For a road bike:sunny: it sure mixed it with the other off road beasts. And you're right Marks, it's all those odd things about them that makes the KLR such a lovable character.

What struck me also was how many great times were shared riding with you guys. Heres to many more adventures with the lil green soulless piece of crap & it's cranky Bavarian cousin:drinknsin

I reckon I know where that rear tyre is still... Maybe a few more rides left in it

XF650

7th July 2011, 15:02

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1e3hwai5Pk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zibj7KnjClk&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOCTsna2jiI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEbcxyNq04k&feature=relmfu

NordieBoy

7th July 2011, 16:40

That is brilliant!

:nya::nya::nya:

Of course there's his "Most Powerful Bike In the World" one too.

The KLR Anthem...
<iframe width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/M62y6BgvO-0?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

thepom

7th July 2011, 17:21

christ its like looking in a mirror..............:facepalm:

Woodman

7th July 2011, 20:30

Friggen brilliant.......

Fran is that your KLR riding American cousin?

So who wants to have a kicking the bike over contest??

NordieBoy

7th July 2011, 20:38

Friggen brilliant.......

Fran is that your KLR riding American cousin?

So who wants to have a kicking the bike over contest??

Whose bike?

Padmei

7th July 2011, 21:08

I found myself standing proudly at the end of that wonderful moving video & starting a slow clap.:love:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1e3hwai5PkEven tho I've never been to Panama, I KNOW that hill.

Woodman

7th July 2011, 21:28

Whose bike?

Your own bike.....................

Crim

4th August 2011, 16:14

G'day,
Going to have a bit of a garage day tomorrow, oil and filter and also disabling rear ABS (ie changing and bleeding brake fluid) - interweb (US KLR geeks) reckons it should be done annually :blink:
Any school boy errors waiting to trap me?
Cheers
Crim

pete376403

4th August 2011, 16:46

Remember to transfer the steel tube from the centre of the old filter into the new one.

Padmei

4th August 2011, 19:04

Remember to transfer the steel tube from the centre of the old filter into the new one.

Definitely agree with that-Ihad to go thru the rubbish looking for mine as I thought they come with the filter. Dont pinch the oring.
After you do the ABS remember to check the traction control (tread depth:shutup:)

Have you lubed the swingarm bearings lately? Easy enough & saves a bit of drama.

I also have a KLR manual available if anyone wants to purchase one. Looking for around $50 fo it as it already has the grubby fingermarks on the important pages.

Crim

4th August 2011, 19:09

Have you lubed the swingarm bearings lately? Easy enough & saves a bit of drama.

No never done that - might add that to tomorrow's list of jobs - got a manual online sorry mate

andy mac

4th August 2011, 19:42

I also have a KLR manual available if anyone wants to purchase one. Looking for around $50 fo it as it already has the grubby fingermarks on the important pages.

:killingme Priceless

Crim

5th August 2011, 15:56

oil and filter done, brake fluid on both wheels changed, pads checked all good- swingarm taken out and greased and lubed more than a bowl of really slippery things :woohoo: (not quite as humerous as Padmei Shakespeare and the eels and jelly thing)
Anyway had a real tough job :shit: getting some of the bolts out and they needed a good sand back and grease - so good call Padmei on doing it now - couple more years and it would have been impossible!

GrantWtf

9th August 2011, 23:08

marks

10th August 2011, 08:21

Howdy, anybody got or know of a KLR for sale ~$4k? - I'm looking for an upgrade :woohoo: and there's not much on Trademe at the mo - dammit!

Also my black beast is looking for a new home if anyone needs some cheap quake-proof transport PM me. Aiming to get it onto Tme in the weekend.

Thanks all.

this is an expired tardme listing which has the guys number on it - seemed like good value - no idea if he still has it.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=385249273

GrantWtf

10th August 2011, 20:42

cheers Marks - Yip - nice bike, but no joy, bloke in Paihia has a couple of interest. Just a long way north - but a nice ride home tho... Will keep scratching around.

Big Dave

21st September 2011, 20:49

Well I've owned mine for 20 days now and I really like it.

I bought the '11 on the strength of how much I enjoyed the KIWIRIDER test I did on one and the great price.

It just suits me. Good in Brisbane traffic, goes great on the open road and the shittier the road gets the more fun it is.

Cheap-as to run too.

Can't wait till it's run in and I can flog it a bit. Kinda wish I was back in Unzud to make better use of its off roadability.

Howie

21st September 2011, 22:11

It just suits me. Good in Brisbane traffic, goes great on the open road and the shittier the road gets the more fun it is.

Cheap-as to run too.

Can't wait till it's run in and I can flog it a bit. Kinda wish I was back in Unzud to make better use of its off roadability.

Not sure if your living North or south of Brisbane?

There's plenty of Dirt/gravel roads not to far from Brisbane. I had a look at few roads in the Glass Hose mountains a few weeks ago, which aren't that far north of Brisbane, and there are more tracks up around Noosa. Unfortunatly I was driving a friends late model car back from a wedding, so didn't go that far off the beaten track.

plenty of leads for rides in the Australia section of Advrider

Big Dave

21st September 2011, 23:16

oh yeah - found a few good dirt roads already, but nuffink compares to NZ - anywhere - for ADV riding I reckon.

i'm in the eastern suburbs.

stormtrooper

13th October 2011, 21:32

GPS MAN

14th October 2011, 18:04

Hi all, the old KLR650 has been jacked up and pulled to bits over the last eight weeks, after doing the Eagle Mike doohicky upgrade about six mouths ago i decided to give it an overhaul with some new parts, upgrades and mods

Looking good there Stormtrooper:D Need to catchup for a ride....work has had a chain around my neck for the past couple of months:mad: really ready to get out and ride..both bikes:sunny:

stormtrooper

14th October 2011, 18:39

Looking good there Stormtrooper:D Need to catchup for a ride....work has had a chain around my neck for the past couple of months:mad: really ready to get out and ride..both bikes:sunny:

Hey GPS MAN its been far to long since the last ride, looking at doing the Grundys ride down this way, let me know if your keen.

STORMTROOPER

Crim

15th October 2011, 09:49

G'day
Going to grab a fuse to fix this afo - pretty sure it is under the tank on the right hand side - anyone want to disagree and save me some time?
Cheers, Crim

Howie

15th October 2011, 10:32

G'day
Going to grab a fuse to fix this afo - pretty sure it is under the tank on the right hand side - anyone want to disagree and save me some time?
Cheers, Crim

The one under the tank on the right hand side by the coolant bottle is your radiator fan one. (experience taught me this) The only other fuses I know of in the standard set up are under the seat on top of the battery.

Edit: Just looked up the wiring diagram, If your horn, and brake light still work it is unlikely to be the fuse, as the horn is on the same fuse. Next choice is probably the Turn signal relay which is under the tank on the right hand side.

Crim

15th October 2011, 11:43

Howie

15th October 2011, 12:07

thanks Howie - next question, turn signal relays - can I just bung any one in there or is it a KLR specific beastie?
Just googled it on interweb and saw a video on how to clean points in one so might try that first - am late for work :facepalm: and need to use the bike :facepalm: :facepalm:

Pretty sure the relay would be bike specfic, or at least some versions of kawasaki specfic.

it could of course also be a loose conection somewhere in the indicator wiring, or bad contacts in the indicator switch. To check the relay plug wiring if you can locate it, and have a multi meter, or 12v test light!

set the meter to DC volts.
put the -ve probe on the orange wire.
put the +ve on brown wire.
Turn ignition and indicators on.
check left and right.
meter should read 12v, or light go.

if it does it indicates the relay is defective. if it doesn't.start checking all the indicator wiring for loose joints etc.

Hope that makes sense.

I have an intermittent fault on mine that I haven't been able to locate yet.

Crim

15th October 2011, 12:50

you da man Howie, actually went back out to the man cave before your last post (which would have made sense to check before I pulled it apart) but took tank off found flasher relay (bloke at Repco laughed at me when I called it a "turn signal relay") and took that apart - whole lot of water fell out, probably cos I went up to Hanmer last night in a bloody storm, I dried it out, cleaned all contacts and put it back together again - wired it all back in and voila I have got indicators again! :wings:

The more things I do to the old KLR the more I like her - I will never sell her :Punk:

unless, of course, I get more than a grand or two and I like the look of another bike

Howie

15th October 2011, 16:27

Good that you got it sorted Crim.

Woodman

15th October 2011, 18:52

For future reference:

I put a thermal flasher relay from repco on mine and it works fine even with front leds and rear incandesent bulbs. A standard 3 pin one works fine too, but not so well with the led combo. The pins are perfect for the Kawaski plug so its all good.

You are right the ol trctors are so easy to work on.

stormtrooper

16th October 2011, 16:49

Hey a tip for those klr650 ridders, i was going to replace the turn signals on my 87klr650 but found they costs $90.00 each in NZ and around $65.00NZ off ebay.
Bugger that, so i had a good look at them and discovered that the neck which is hard rubber comes away from the turn signal case, there is a clip inside that you can slide out and then by pulling the rubber neck it comes away.
My rubber necks were broken and this is most common after a wipeout.
Once you have the neck off, and if broken its most likely its in two bits, you need a bit of copper fuel line, its the perfect size you need to cut the length of the rubber neck and drill out the threaded bolt that goes part way into the rubber neck, but dont drill to far, drill so the copper pipe seats well insde it measure the neck and cut the copper pipe to suit. After that tap the copper pipe into the rubber neck with a hammer and through into the drilled out bolt.
Now you have fixed the neck with no glue and its stronger than it originally came out on the bike, reassemble the neck back onto the turn signal case, when puting the wires back do one at a time as the inside diameter is smaller, its all done

STORMTROOPER

Big Dave

17th October 2011, 00:02

marks

17th October 2011, 17:16

..

nicely produced video

how do you find the seat peg height given that you are on the taller side?

Big Dave

17th October 2011, 18:14

Thanks - I find it's very comfortable all-round.

All I had to do was tilt the stock bars up slightly and it's a good fit.

marks

17th October 2011, 19:18

courtesy of Andy

where a bald E07 will take you....

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/DdFkrORFI34?rel=0&hd=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Big Dave

18th October 2011, 20:07

Just had its first service (yes yes - it's been a long time to rack up 1000km - but it's been in the Harley shed for a month while I had a test bike).

$Au200. Gotta love them KLRs.

pete376403

18th October 2011, 20:18

Did it use any oil between new and first service?
(Hoping they've got that issue fixed)

Big Dave

18th October 2011, 23:39

Did it use any oil between new and first service?
(Hoping they've got that issue fixed)

None. From what I read online (i.e. questionable veracity) the issue was resolved with the '10's. Mine is a 2011.

flockfish

22nd October 2011, 10:15

Woodman

22nd October 2011, 16:43

When this tread started a long time ago, in a galaxy far far away........ it was about the KLR doohicky, counter weight chain adjuster, chrome plated plasticine that kawasaki supply. Anyway mine has failed. 2006 model. Does anyone have the tools I could borrow to do the job, pretty please. and the best way to get a better replacement part into the country.

Welcome, ye of impeccable taste in motorcycles.

My doohickey was broken too. 05 model.

I have some home made doohickey tools somewhere that I loaned to Padmei before his brain explosion and subsequent BMW ownership, but possibly he then loaned them to Crim, or I loaned them to Crim. Anyway someones got them who frequents here. They were just a bolt for loosening the flywheel and a spanner that I cut in half and welded the ring part on so it was stepped out enough. It was a pretty easy job except for my first attempt with fitting the spiral spring version I broke the drill off so fitted the other sort. Took about 3 hours-ish including making the tools.

Get an eaglemike one from somewhere on the internet, theres heaps of guys selling them.

Crim

22nd October 2011, 18:10

G'day - I replaced mine a couple of years ago - rode it down to Stu's place in Timavegas so we could do both together (ended up only doing mine) - but I am sure I used all the tools that Stu had (I seem to remember that the only thing I got of the Woodman was the spring that he couldn't use after breaking the drill bit) - is that right Stu? if not come back to me and I will go through the man cave but am pretty sure that Padmei may still have them - as I sit and type my gold fish like grey matter seems to remember that the spring arrived in a small envelope so I am about as sure as the ABs winning tomorrow that I don't have the NADS doohickey replacement tool selection

but it was easy to do

Padmei

23rd October 2011, 18:51

I have located said doohickey removal tools. They were in the Level 5 of storage receptacle B in the southeast quadrant of my meticulously organised workshop.
If anyone wishes to borrow them let me know where to send them to. Otherwise I'll put them either back on the nail.
Woodman if noone wants them I'll drop them back to you, after I post back Nutsos clutch centreing tool & topos tube from the laidback, & Nordies...:facepalm:

NordieBoy

23rd October 2011, 19:38

The Emporium's patented single level storage system works well too.

flockfish

26th October 2011, 16:30

Please please please me me me. Can I arrange to beg, borrow, or the other thing. the above mentioned tools.
Please contact via
09-5272350
021645477
flockfish@gmail.com its a long story.
Ta Fish

Padmei

26th October 2011, 19:16

Please please please me me me. Can I arrange to beg, borrow, or the other thing. the above mentioned tools.
Please contact via
09-5272350
021645477
flockfish@gmail.com its a long story.
Ta Fish

I returned them to Woodman. You'll be astounded at their quality

Woodman

26th October 2011, 20:42

flockfish

26th October 2011, 21:20

Tools from Woodman and parts from Max. Cool. Workshop day on Sunday. Thanks guys. Time to drag the maps out again soon. Remember those? Maps, like a GPS on a big bit of paper without batteries.

NordieBoy

26th October 2011, 21:34

Remember those? Maps, like a GPS on a big bit of paper without batteries.

???

Like a big printout of Google Maps?

Weird.

I just carry the GPS and a Sat phone when I want to get back to nature.

Woodman

29th October 2011, 08:08

Ok, suspension experts, wots wrong with my rear shock?

The other week on my noname ride I was convinced that my rear shock was blown as their was oil around it, but now is as dry as a bone and I,m thinking that it was chain lube flicked up. I ordered a seal head kit (along with other goodies) from procycle to do a rebuild but now am not sure if it needs it.

Anyway I always have my rear suspension set up on the pogoyist setting, e.g. as little damping as possible and max preload. Works for me, lots of grip, more control etc, but the other day I was fecking about and set the damping on number 4 (max) and when I push the bike down it stays there and won't bounce up. It didn't used to do that, so is this indicitive of no oil or some other issue that someone here (on any bike) has had and can diagnose.

Obviously as this is the KLR thread I am expecting klr bagging replies, but amongst them there may be something that may help.:yes:

NordieBoy

29th October 2011, 08:11

Sounds like it just needs a rebuild.
My TT shock is the same. A few clicks can go from too soft to locked.

Eddieb

29th October 2011, 08:24

How much oil was around it, a little moisture or quite a bit? if it was a fair bit it could have dumped all it's oil, I've had it happen before in an explosive manner. I dunno if what you are seeing is any indication of that or not but the shock not returning when pushed down doesn't sound good either way.

..and just so I don't ruin your expectations, get a DR!

pete376403

29th October 2011, 19:58

You'll be aware of this page no doubt.
http://calgarydualsport.tripod.com/klr650shock/procedure.html

Woodman

29th October 2011, 21:21

yup looks relatively straight forwardish.

Taz

30th October 2011, 07:03

Sounds like all ya gas has leaked out woody.

Padmei

30th October 2011, 07:09

I was sure I had a spare manky looking shock around. If I locate it you could have a spare to reseal if you wish...

Woodman

30th October 2011, 07:39

Sounds like all ya gas has leaked out woody.

May be right, got it re-gassed a couple of years ago.

I was sure I had a spare manky looking shock around. If I locate it you could have a spare to reseal if you wish...

I'll take you up on that ifn you can find it.

Nordies right I think, the bikes at about 37k and except for the regas the shock hasn't had any servicing, so is probly loooong overdue for a rebuild, and anyway the parts are due here next week so may as well.

Anyone local got any motorsickle spring clamps? car ones are no good apparently.

alane

30th October 2011, 13:09

Anyone local got any motorsickle spring clamps? car ones are no good apparently.[/QUOTE]

I wonder if a couple of permanant wire strainers & a bit of #8 would do. :yes:

Padmei

30th October 2011, 17:44

Anyone local got any motorsickle spring clamps? car ones are no good apparently.

I wonder if a couple of permanant wire strainers & a bit of #8 would do. :yes:[/QUOTE]

I didn't think a KLR rider would need to use spring clamps - a limp wristed Dr rider certainly:innocent:

Box'a'bits

30th October 2011, 17:58

I didn't think a KLR rider would need to use spring clamps - a limp wristed Dr rider certainly:innocent:
You saying the KLR riders have no boing in their spring? Poor comparison to DR riders? Who everyone knows need to harden up? :shit:

Compression, & then some large zip ties to hold it down will do it.

Padmei

30th October 2011, 18:25

Anyone remember those Joe Weider Chest expanders:laugh:

NordieBoy

30th October 2011, 18:56

Anyone remember those Joe Weider Chest expanders:laugh:

The spring ones that catch your chest hairs?

flockfish

31st October 2011, 09:16

Tools from Woodman and parts from Max. Cool. Workshop day on Sunday. Thanks guys. Time to drag the maps out again soon. Remember those? Maps, like a GPS on a big bit of paper without batteries.

Something bad has happened. Mistake on my part probably. Mr REDKLR I think you were going to send me the tools to pull the flywheel. or maybe it was Woodman. Either way no tools have turned up. Please contact me again so I san sort my stuff up out. Thanks guys
021 645477
095272350 A/h

flockfish

31st October 2011, 09:27

The adjuster is for dampening return only. It controls the rate at which the dampner will return up again. Without that you would get flicked off the seat with spring rebound. The other adjuster can be wound clock wise only and goes fron 1-5 then flick back to 1. this just pre loads the spring.

Woodman

31st October 2011, 19:16

Actually, just for curiositys sake where do you othe klrers and ex klrers run your rear spring settings? If you know that is.

I have the spring preload at 5 and the damping at 1.

Padmei

31st October 2011, 19:19

Actually, just for curiositys sake where do you othe klrers and ex klrers run your rear spring settings? If you know that is.

I have the spring preload at 5 and the damping at 1.

I alway ran mine at 3 on the preload- Up to 5 if 2 up. 1 is velly quishy. Rebound - frick knows

flockfish

31st October 2011, 20:08

I alway ran mine at 3 on the preload- Up to 5 if 2 up. 1 is velly quishy. Rebound - frick knows

Two youtube links. one for rebound adjust and one for preload adjust.
Mine is set to 1 on preload and 3 on rebound as the bike weighs more than twice as much as me.
rebound adjust http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yq4YfVkdEzo&feature=related
Preload adjust http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWlA3PLaBxA

stormtrooper

31st October 2011, 20:48

Something bad has happened. Mistake on my part probably. Mr REDKLR I think you were going to send me the tools to pull the flywheel. or maybe it was Woodman. Either way no tools have turned up. Please contact me again so I san sort my stuff up out. Thanks guys
021 645477
095272350 A/h

Hey remember when you pull the flywheel you need to replace the bolt with a new one and talk it up to the right setting :shit:

Woodman

31st October 2011, 21:32

Hey remember when you pull the flywheel you need to replace the bolt with a new one and talk it up to the right setting :shit:

I never did replace my bolt, should have but wasn't aware I was supposed to. Torqued it up proper though and its done 16000kms-ish since the doo was done.

Might go back in one day and have a gander.

How are your mods working out for ya?

flockfish

4th November 2011, 20:46

Got the KLR back together yesterday. It runs much quieter now the balancer chain is not flapping about grinding off bits of aluminum casing. I drilled a dent into the sump oil drain bolt and fitted a magnet from a ipod head phones. Strong little buggers. Its held in place by magnetic force and a few wacks with a punch around the edge. Presto cheap magnetic sump plug. I also pulled the clutch cover and cleaned the oil strainer and fitted a new filter, new fly wheel bolt (correctly torqued) and purchased a small torque wrench for the water pump bolt and all the case bolts.
Now sit up straight. Question time, What oil are you using and why that choice? I'm after answers from riders that have clocked up a lot of km on the same bike, long time owners.
I'm may not be in favor with my local Kawasaki parts suppler as I rejected a fly wheel cover gasket as it was around $30. What is a good part suppler for oil filters, chain and sprockets that will ship to NZ? I'm usually keen to support local business but $30 for oil proof cardboard cut and out is gouging.

Woodman

4th November 2011, 21:26

Glad to hear the doo-ing went well, its surprising how much quieter they run when its working properly aye? Was the spring broken?

I use Kawasaki oil filters, $13 at the dealer, thats the normal price for a car filter so thats fine, and like car filters there are probly some dodgy brands out there.

Oil, at the moment I am using a semi-synthetic but will change to Mobil1 fully synthetic next change. To be honest I am not the guy to ask about oil cos my beast used to use so much ( 4 litres per 1000k before rebuild) that it didn't matter what went in. Good now though:woohoo:

pete376403

4th November 2011, 22:06

My '08 uses a fair bit of oil so I usually buy whatever is on sale at Supercheap. After all it's not like it spends any extended time in the motor. Filters from dealer or Supercheap, about the same price. Bike has done about 23,000km, new rings at 8-10,000 (? cant recall), made bugger all difference. 685 piston on the wish list.

Magnetic sump plug is a good idea but I've replaced the standard "low-hanging fruit" plug with a low profile stainless item, magnet wont stick to it.

Padmei

5th November 2011, 07:38

I always used GPS 4T as it was recommended by all the bike shops. I certainly noticed a difference in engine noise when I changed the oil. I had an 08 for 23000 trouble free Ks.

Taz

5th November 2011, 16:30

. I had an 08 for 23000 trouble free Ks.

Didn't you have trouble with gravity? :shifty:

NordieBoy

5th November 2011, 18:14

Didn't you have trouble with gravity? :shifty:

Not trouble as such. An understanding with gravity would be more accurate.

Padmei

5th November 2011, 18:46

Actually I had trouble with balance- gravity worked pretty well really

warewolf

5th November 2011, 19:18

Woodman, sounds like your shock is in desperate need of a rebuild. Not only does the oil lose its goodness and inherit particulates rubbed off the various surfaces, some parts can actually disintegrate and lodge in others. Maybe if enough oil leaked out you've got dried and rotting rubber bits inside, which are now jamming against the shaft and some other part, stopping the rebound action. Shocks are one of the most neglected parts of motorcycles.

Anyone local got any motorsickle spring clamps? car ones are no good apparently.I just used a pair of toothed tie-down straps - but I'm told that won't work on springs much stronger than the 7.0 N/mm spring in my bike i.e. the 8.0 N/mm or so for phat bastids on 640s.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/mc/bikes/ktm/lc4/th_SpringCompression1.jpg (http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/mc/bikes/ktm/lc4/SpringCompression1.jpg)

Woodman

5th November 2011, 19:35

Woodman, sounds like your shock is in desperate need of a rebuild. Not only does the oil lose its goodness and inherit particulates rubbed off the various surfaces, some parts can actually disintegrate and lodge in others. Maybe if enough oil leaked out you've got dried and rotting rubber bits inside, which are now jamming against the shaft and some other part, stopping the rebound action. Shocks are one of the most neglected parts of motorcycles.

I just used a pair of toothed tie-down straps - but I'm told that won't work on springs much stronger than the 7.0 N/mm spring in my bike i.e. the 8.0 N/mm or so for phat bastids on 640s.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/mc/bikes/ktm/lc4/th_SpringCompression1.jpg (http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/mc/bikes/ktm/lc4/SpringCompression1.jpg)

The new seal head arrived this week so I may take a day off next week and start the job, unless its fine then I might go riding instead:rolleyes:. It was probly due for a rebuild 10000ks ago.

Where do you get new oil for the shocks from?, actually if you are not using your rear shock can you donate it to me cos apparently lc4 shockys fit klrs with bugger all modifcation.

NordieBoy

5th November 2011, 20:44

Where do you get new oil for the shocks from?, actually if you are not using your rear shock can you donate it to me cos apparently lc4 shockys fit klrs with bugger all modifcation.

I use Belray HVI shock oil.
It's what was on the shelf.
Shock oil is more apt to be true to label with regard to the weight than fork oil.

topo

6th November 2011, 07:09

woodman, i've still got the KDX rear shock here if you want to see if it fits.

Woodman

6th November 2011, 08:07

woodman, i've still got the KDX rear shock here if you want to see if it fits.

Interesting, but I would be surprised if it would be right for a bike that weighs considerably more. I have always been pretty happy with the rear of the klr, especially since fitting the raising links, its the front that is the problem, and maybe one day if I fit usd forks then the back will seem inadequate, but in the mean time I will rebuild the rear, further my skill base and get out and enjoy the pig with all its inadequacies and character.

NordieBoy

6th November 2011, 08:43

The really good USD front end is up for grabs...

Woodman

6th November 2011, 19:46

The really good USD front end is up for grabs...

Not helping.

NordieBoy

6th November 2011, 21:29

Not helping.

:ride::moon:

Woodman

13th November 2011, 19:33

Hey, need a favour from other klrers here.

Just finished rebuilding my rear shocky, interesting exercise and a good learning curve so well worth it. Just need to get it gassed and the spring put on.:brick:. I managed to get the spring off with an old drill press, a hammer and some screwdrivers, but getting it back on was a threat to life and limb, and not just cos the spring nearly hit Mrs Woodmans car. It has about 50 mm preload so I gave up and will have to pay someone.

Anyway back to why I neeed some help, when I was looking online at the shocky rebuild thread there was a picture of a klr shocky and the one in the pic had a bumpstop, which mine does not have. This had me a bit perplexed, but the shocky will compress until it hits the cap, so there is no interference internally. I also installed it on the bike with no spring and lifted the wheel all the way up and it just hits something under the guard before the shock cap. There are signs of impact on the cap, but not bad.

Stop rambling Woodman, get to the point:sleep:

Can you klrers kindly go out to your magnificent beasties and check to see if you guys still have bumpstops left, or had one at all if you know.

No hurry

cheers

NordieBoy

13th November 2011, 20:43

Would expect it to have a bump stop.
It may have mangled it and spat it off though.

Howie

13th November 2011, 21:31

Hey, need a favour from other klrers here.

Anyway back to why I neeed some help, when I was looking online at the shocky rebuild thread there was a picture of a klr shocky and the one in the pic had a bumpstop, which mine does not have. This had me a bit perplexed, but the shocky will compress until it hits the cap, so there is no interference internally. I also installed it on the bike with no spring and lifted the wheel all the way up and it just hits something under the guard before the shock cap. There are signs of impact on the cap, but not bad.

Stop rambling Woodman, get to the point:sleep:

Can you klrers kindly go out to your magnificent beasties and check to see if you guys still have bumpstops left, or had one at all if you know.

No hurry

cheers

Yep mine still has one, it is only a soft ruber bush, about 30mm high at a guess, I could measure it up for you tomorrow night if you want.

Woodman

13th November 2011, 22:01

Yep mine still has one, it is only a soft ruber bush, about 30mm high at a guess, I could measure it up for you tomorrow night if you want.

Cheers, good to know, I reckon about 40 mm so thats ballpark enough for me. Was having a look through all my hordage in the shed and found some urathane bushes which are bloody near spot on so have cut one through on an angle so it can be put on without pulling the shocky apart again and that will do I think.
Pretty sure that there hasn't been a bump stop there for a long time.

pete376403

14th November 2011, 22:01

If you can put the bump stop on without dismantling then surely it's going to come off just as easily first time the shock body hits it (ie landing after a bit of air)

NordieBoy

15th November 2011, 05:59

ie landing after a bit of air

Nah, that won't happen...

Woodman

15th November 2011, 06:11

If you can put the bump stop on without dismantling then surely it's going to come off just as easily first time the shock body hits it (ie landing after a bit of air)

It sort of winds on, and if thats no good there are always cableties.
Took the shocky in to get the spring on and have it regassed, but the guy at the shop reckons the shaft is very worn and won't last long.:weep: It will have to do for a while till i can save for an aftermarket shocky. To be honest its probly been munted for ages, so this way it will balance out the front end.

Nah, that won't happen...

Of couse not.

Padmei

15th November 2011, 06:17

Hold fire & I'll check out to see if that manky shock is still in the bananana boxes. i'll check later on today.

Woodman

15th November 2011, 06:20

Hold fire & I'll check out to see if that manky shock is still in the bananana boxes. i'll check later on today.

Oh yea forgot bout that. Cheers ears.

Padmei

15th November 2011, 06:24

Is the time the posts were posted showing up on your computer? I can't see the time messages were sent on mine- just wondering...

marks

15th November 2011, 07:42

Is the time the posts were posted showing up on your computer? I can't see the time messages were sent on mine- just wondering...

time to trim the beard away from your eyes

Padmei

15th November 2011, 12:54

manky shock dropped off to the Woodmans cottage - Funny I couldn't see an axe or fallen tree anywhere

Woodman

16th November 2011, 21:21

manky shock dropped off to the Woodmans cottage - Funny I couldn't see an axe or fallen tree anywhere

Oh cool cheers, just read this and went searching in the dark for it. Mrs Woodman found it and put it in the shed. It even has a bumpstop so it may not have been as hammered as mine which is encouraging.

The time etc of posts doesn't appear on my KB either.

Woodman

20th November 2011, 08:49

put the rebuilt shocky in yesterday arvo and went for a test ride down the appleby river. Seems ok so far, although the bike seems a bit tailhappy on gravel, possibly it has some dampening now.

Btw Padmei, that manky shock you loaned me is about an inch shorter. Was it off a Tengai?

And if anyone doubts that a braided front brake line is any good, well doubt no more. Friggen amazing transformation, I almost binned it when pulling up behind a car at the Richmnod roundabout, pulled on the brakes like usual and the front wheel locked up. Almost nasty.:shit:
Happy with my brakes now, may have to change my riding style to incorporate them.

Taz

25th November 2011, 09:36

And if anyone doubts that a braided front brake line is any good, well doubt no more. Friggen amazing transformation, I almost binned it when pulling up behind a car at the Richmnod roundabout, pulled on the brakes like usual and the front wheel locked up. Almost nasty.:shit:
Happy with my brakes now, may have to change my riding style to incorporate them.

Yeah, Yeah, Cary fitted a braided line to his XR650R and you can't stop him raving about it!! Braided this braided that! So even tho the 640A has awesome brakes I thought to myself that maybe these braied cables might be the go?? Lo and behold the KTM already has these new fangled cables!! Bonus!! I suppose that's why KTM's are the best?? :bleh::shifty::lol::banana:

Way back in the day when I owned a "sports bike" A VFR1000R I fitted braided lines to that and what a difference they made slowing that 250kg beast down from warp speed.

Taz

NordieBoy

25th November 2011, 09:55

Yeah, Yeah, Cary fitted a braided line to his XR650R and you can't stop him raving about it!! Braided this braided that! So even tho the 640A has awesome brakes I thought to myself that maybe these braied cables might be the go?? Lo and behold the KTM already has these new fangled cables!! Bonus!! I suppose that's why KTM's are the best?? :bleh::shifty::lol::banana:

Way back in the day when I owned a "sports bike" A VFR1000R I fitted braided lines to that and what a difference they made slowing that 250kg beast down from warp speed.

Yeah, my 1993 Nordwest has braided lines all around.
The difference between the TT's 24 year old rubber line and a brand new braided line is pretty marked too :D