Tyre choice for adventure riding? (Mixing road and off-road)

[Taz]

The V rubber VRM 147 is a fantastic tyre. Really good on the road and in the wet. Much better in the wet than the cheng shin C858.

[marks]

I put a set of D606's on a couple of months ago and after 3000-3300k the rear has about 1-2 mm left on the middle and the front is 2/3 worn and needs the pressure dropped to 20ish to bite into gravel. I ran both tires at 30-32psi on the road (and most of the time off road as well). I'm a little disappointed with the tire life (although very happy with their performance on and off road)

I've owned the bike for 3 months and done 4500km so assume I do 18000km this year. Thats 6 rears @ $155 plus $20 fitting = $1050 and 4 fronts at $148 plus $20 fitting = $672

Total tire cost = $1722 or $30 per week
Tire cost will not be far off petrol cost

I might try an E09 on the rear and a MT21 on the front and see how they last

I think knobbyish tires are right for the sort of 'soft off road' riding I prefer.

any thoughts (and no I don't want to change my own tires - I hate doing that) or suggestions on reducing ongoing cost while not compromising off road performance?

[warewolf]

Tire cost will not be far off petrol costThat doesn't surprise me. Costs for me (last time I worked it out) was 1/3 each for petrol, tyres, and everything else (rego, insurance, servicing).


Total tire cost = $1722 or $30 per weekOr $3.73/100km for the front tyre, and $5.83/100km for the rear... getting up there alright. The rear tops even the $TKC80$ rear I ran 4 years ago. Those tyre prices are a lot higher than I've been paying, but I haven't bought a tyre for 12 months and I know the prices have climbed sharply.

Going to a MT21/T63/E-09 would increase your tyre life for a small traction loss. Other than shopping for a better price on the D606, can't suggest any different. Except; suck it up and change the tyres yourself, but invest in some really good tools that make the job so easy you won't hate it. $20 per tyre adds up.

For the type of varied riding & touring you do, you're stuck between a rock and a hard place.

[cooneyr]

....I might try an E09 on the rear and a MT21 on the front and see how they last

I think knobbyish tires are right for the sort of 'soft off road' riding I prefer.....

I really liked the D606 but managed to destroy them in about the same distance. I was paying about $135 each for the rears and about $120 for the fronts with no fitting so definatly shop around.

In saying this the E-09 on the back of the XTZ is lasting really well compared to the D606. So far it's done about 3500kms with a lot of that two up at speed on seal. It got a good thrasing on Sunday (first time it's actually started to look like its had to put power down) and it is still at about 1/2 tread depth. The E-09 tends to step out more comming out of a gravel corner under power but if you learn to control this and ride accordingly it seems to be pretty much as good everywhere else. Can't hurt to give one a spin with the KM's your doing. The impressions so far has made this the prefered tyre for the XTZ - but then again it is pretty much the only knobbie in 140/80-17!

[Oscar]

I put a set of D606's on a couple of months ago and after 3000-3300k the rear has about 1-2 mm left on the middle and the front is 2/3 worn and needs the pressure dropped to 20ish to bite into gravel. I ran both tires at 30-32psi on the road (and most of the time off road as well). I'm a little disappointed with the tire life (although very happy with their performance on and off road)

I've owned the bike for 3 months and done 4500km so assume I do 18000km this year. Thats 6 rears @ $155 plus $20 fitting = $1050 and 4 fronts at $148 plus $20 fitting = $672

Total tire cost = $1722 or $30 per week
Tire cost will not be far off petrol cost

I might try an E09 on the rear and a MT21 on the front and see how they last

I think knobbyish tires are right for the sort of 'soft off road' riding I prefer.

any thoughts (and no I don't want to change my own tires - I hate doing that) or suggestions on reducing ongoing cost while not compromising off road performance?

I dream about getting 3,500km out of a rear knobbly:(

[Woodman]

Marks, i really think you need to ride more conservatively, you need to stop wheelspin completely and stick to the speed limit when on tar, but seriously 3500k to 4000k is about what my e09 rear will get too.
Please can you not do a costing exercise like that again, and spend the time changing your own tyres:niceone:

[junkmanjoe]

hi chaps
if any one is interested.
im selling a set of E-07's
traveled aprox 800kms from new.
front 90-90-21
rear 130-80-17

possably have a E-09 rear for sale traveled aprox 1.700kms,
may keep as a spare.....twist my arm maybe....

can view on tardme
auction-216113741

or pm myself.

cheers.
JMJ

[Underground]

E07 , I think Ive found the everlasting adv tyre for those on a budget.
after 8000 odd k's in the last few weeks mine's only worn down to that band around the middle ,I normaly only get 4 to 5000 k to completely bald out of other tyres .
No bad habits ,only had to be assisted up one slippery slope on the KCR
Had it step out a couple of times on those on those discusting shameful NI sealed roads in the wet but it gripped up and came back into line nicely when I buttoned off (probably only spun up due to the awesome power of the @)

[NordieBoy]

I only got about 3,000 more out of mine once I hit that band :whistle:

[clint640]

I only got about 3,000 more out of mine once I hit that band :whistle:

Is there a 140-17 EO-7 available for the DR? I tried a 130-18 on the 640 for Oz & it's down to the band now after 8500km. The 140-18 I had on before didn't have the band & therefore had a touch more traction & was warrantable for a little longer, so I think I'll go back to the 140 EO-7 next.

On the front I tried a D605 for the 1st time from Port Augusta on, it seemed to work pretty well, if it wears OK & survives some more rigorous testing it may even replace the TKC80 as front tyre of choice as they're a good bit cheaper.

Cheers
Clint

[NordieBoy]

Is there a 140-17 EO-7 available for the DR? I tried a 130-18 on the 640 for Oz & it's down to the band now after 8500km. The 140-18 I had on before didn't have the band & therefore had a touch more traction & was warrantable for a little longer, so I think I'll go back to the 140 EO-7 next.

On the front I tried a D605 for the 1st time from Port Augusta on, it seemed to work pretty well, if it wears OK & survives some more rigorous testing it may even replace the TKC80 as front tyre of choice as they're a good bit cheaper.

Cheers
Clint

They do the 140 for the 17" but it seems to be a different compound.

The stock rear on the DR is a 120 anyway.

[Willdat?]

Is there anywhere else that we can buy Avon's?

http://www.dold.co.nz/Products/Avon/Avon_Tyres/Adventure_Sport_(Distanzia).aspx

I see Quasi likes 'em...

[junkmanjoe]

do these different brands of road nobby tires have speed rateings on them.

[Woodman]

Fitted me new Mich t63 this arvo. Bit of a pain really as the bead was that squashed in it was impossible to put the tube in and get the valve thru the ole.

Ended up putting one side of the tyre on the rim and putting the tube hrough the fitted side so the valve would locate in the hole, then had to fit the other side of the tyre then take the tyre off the rim on the other side again so the rest of the tube could be fitted. Sounds awkward but it was the only way, the mitas was way easier and quicker to fit.

[Paladin]

D606's on the beach!!!!

:first:
:clap:
:2thumbsup
:banana:

[Howie]

do these different brands of road nobby tires have speed rateings on them.

Hi Joe, Here's a copy of some info I found on the net of what all the letters and numbers on the side of your tyre mean.

Motorcycle Tyre Ratings


Tyre identification numbers provide the following information”
Tyre width (in inches or mm)
The ratio: height / width
The registered maximum speed
The rim diameter
The tyre load


Example
200/50 ZR17 M/C (75W) TL
200 = tyre width in mm
/50 = ratio of height to width
Z = Speed rating (see table below)
R = radial construction
17 = rim diameter in inches
TL =tubeless
(75W) = load index (see table below)
M/C = Motorcycle tyre


Tyre Speed Ratings:
Speed Symbol:
km/h (mph)
J 100 (62)
K 110 (68)
L 120 (75)
M 130 (81)
N 140 (87)
P 150 (93)
Q 160 (99)
R 170 (106)
S 180 (112)
T 190 (118)
U 200 (124)
H 210 (130)
V 240 (149)
Z >240 (>150)
W 270 (168)
Y 300 (186)




Tyre Load Index:

Load Index: Load in KG:
62- 265
63- 272
64- 280
65- 290
66- 300
67- 307
68- 315
69- 325
70- 335
71- 345
72- 355
73- 365
74- 375
75- 387
76- 400
77- 412
78- 425
70- 437
80- 450
81- 462
82- 475
83- 487
84- 500
85- 515
86- 530
87- 545
88- 560
89- 580
90- 600



Directional Arrows:

Where a tyre has a directional arrow moulded on it, the tyre must be fitted so that the relevant front or rear arrow follows the direction of rotation. Tyre wear will be affected, or the type itself can be damaged.

Cheers

Paul

[warewolf]

do these different brands of road nobby tires have speed rateings on them.Usually, even if they aren't road legal.

[warewolf]

it was impossible to put the tube in and get the valve thru the ole.Fit tyre first side. Flip rim over, hook fitted bead at valve hole with tyre lever and lift over rim. Put rim back down on that side, so it holds the lever in place. Now you can fit the valve real easy because the bead is being held well clear. Insert valve, lift rim remove tyre lever, continue.

Standard procedure, unless the tyre happens to be really floppy and piss easy to get the valve stem inserted... not often.

[Woodman]

Fit tyre first side. Flip rim over, hook fitted bead at valve hole with tyre lever and lift over rim. Put rim back down on that side, so it holds the lever in place. Now you can fit the valve real easy because the bead is being held well clear. Insert valve, lift rim remove tyre lever, continue.

Standard procedure, unless the tyre happens to be really floppy and piss easy to get the valve stem inserted... not often.

i musta always had floppy tyres cos what you describe is what i did.
The good thing is the change was done with only stuff carried in me toolkit, except mtb pump.

[Woodman]

Went for a hoon to try out my new rear michelin t63 today, prior tyre was a Mitas e09.

The michy does not have the same tendency as the e09 to slide on gravel and seems to have better control. It has better low speed grip too and has better side grip on off camber tracks, which is an area the mitas was not strong. Strange thing was though, it seemed to wander on straight tar sections which is odd

So far it performs better, but time will tell.

[Box'a'bits]

Went for a hoon to try out my new rear michelin t63 today, prior tyre was a Mitas e09.

The michy does not have the same tendency as the e09 to slide on gravel. Strange thing was though, it seemed to wander on straight tar sections which is odd.

That was also noted by others on the advrider.com site

[Woodman]

That was also noted by others on the advrider.com site

As far as the wondering thing goes , am glad others have noticed it then as I was really startin to worry that something was loose.

[NordieBoy]

As far as the wondering thing goes , am glad others have noticed it then as I was really startin to worry that something was loose.

Things don't get loose on your bike.
They're either fine or impact damaged :D

[Padmei]

What kind of price were they?

[Woodman]

What kind of price were they?

About the same as an e09 nomally I think, but I got this one at a real good price, not sure what the retail is. I will see what I can do for ya on friday when i get back from Blenheim.

[warewolf]

Went for a hoon to try out my new rear michelin t63 today, prior tyre was a Mitas e09.

The michy does not have the same tendency as the e09 to slide on gravel and seems to have better control. It has better low speed grip too and has better side grip on off camber tracks, which is an area the mitas was not strong. Strange thing was though, it seemed to wander on straight tar sections which is oddGood to hear the comparison. I've never noticed the wandering on the tar when it is smooth. Possibly the better side/off-camber grip means the tyre will track tarmac "ruts" more strongly.


That was also noted by others on the advrider.com siteGot a link? Google can't find it for me.


What kind of price were they?12 months ago the T-63 was $135 vs $167 for the E-09.

[junkmanjoe]

one set E-07's for sale.
$180.00 o.n.o
pm if interested.

JMJ

[Box'a'bits]

Good to hear the comparison. I've never noticed the wandering on the tar when it is smooth. Possibly the better side/off-camber grip means the tyre will track tarmac "ruts" more strongly.

Got a link? Google can't find it for me.

12 months ago the T-63 was $135 vs $167 for the E-09.

Here's a link to the last T63 discussion (in which you took a part!). http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=454804. I can't find the discussion on the wandering in the two tyre threads I've just reviewed. Perhaps I have misread a statement. :Oops:... BUT - there are multiple tyre threads on the site (everyone has an opinion :whocares:) so perhaps not. I did quite a bit of reading prior to buying the last set of tyres, but didn't keep track of the threads, just the gist of what some said.....At the time I was looking for consensus, rather the inidvidual opinion.

[warewolf]

It was the wandering part I couldn't find, nor recall either, and I've read <del>a few</del> too many tyre threads meself. :)

Went for a strop up to the Maungatapu Saddle tonight, looked really greasy with the recent rains (on top of roadworks in places) and the well-worn T-63 at 22psi worked a treat! Was finding surprising amounts of grip, even in the clay. I don't think I've quite run it that low before, probably only 25psi and I don't recall it being so good. I was expecting it to seem crap after running (ruining?) the Competition III enduro tyre.

[junkmanjoe]

the only wandering part, would be that blue KTM...:scooter:
wandering all over the 42nd and fishers tracks...:woohoo:

[Box'a'bits]

the only wandering part, would be that blue KTM...:scooter:
wandering all over the 42nd and fishers tracks...:woohoo:

Nah, that's the rider's mind, not his riding style.

Just put a T63 on the rear of the KTM for this weekend's trip. 12mm of tread now. Lets see how much there is after the NIIS.

The MT21 didn't last too well on the KCAR run. In 1700 kms (approx) wore from 15mm down to 6mm. Chunked when I ran 22 PSI in the rear. Was quite slippy in gravel. Excellent in the mud on Fishers Track, & good at 42 Traverse as well
Steve

[warewolf]

The MT21 didn't last too well on the KCAR run. In 1700 kms (approx) wore from 15mm down to 6mm. Chunked when I ran 22 PSI in the rear. Wear rate sounds normal to me. The MT21 is renowned for chunking, it's not your pressure. My T63 has almost no chunking in 3000km of hard use. An MT21 would be ripped to pieces at that same mileage.

[Box'a'bits]

Wear rate sounds normal to me. The MT21 is renowned for chunking, it's not your pressure. My T63 has almost no chunking in 3000km of hard use. An MT21 would be ripped to pieces at that same mileage.

Most of the ride was at normal road pressures. Dropped pressures for one section of loose gravel /dirt, where I could get the bike to hook up (front or rear). The issue with this is that the ride then went onto sweeping sealed road where (due to the fact I wanted to ride with the group) I didn't get a chance to up pressures. The riding was v.hot (impressive grip from the tyres then though). Were I to do the same again, I'd probably leave the pressures alone. That sealed section was where the chunking became very apparent.

Colin, I assume you are also running the 130/180 18? I couldn't get a bigger tyre. Seems skinny to me cfw the MT21 though that was a 140. The T63 doesn't seem pulled out of shape though. How is it wearing in terms of squaring off? Or is wear fairly even..
Good to hear you've got a 1/2 way decent mileage out of it. The MT21 just wore too fast for me, and wasn't as good as I had hoped in the gravel.

Steve

[cooneyr]

In my surfing over the past few days I've discovered that the VRM147 (MT21 look-a-like) and VRM122 (T63 look-a-like) are both made in 140/80-18 size. I know the MT21 is made in a 140/80-18 but the T63 is not (largest is 130 wide). Not sure if they are available in NZ or what prices would be but a call to Darbi Accessories (http://www.darbi.co.nz/) would soon sort that out (I'll make a call at morning tea time). No idea what either of them wear or handle like. I see the post above about the VRM147 but has anybody ever run the VRM122 and what was it like?

Cheers R

[warewolf]

Colin, I assume you are also running the 130/180 18? I couldn't get a bigger tyre. Seems skinny to me cfw the MT21 though that was a 140. The T63 doesn't seem pulled out of shape though. Correct, as Ryan wrote the T63 only goes to 130 then the Desert rear is only in the 140. Same shape, tougher carcass and harder compound, so not so good for NZ winter rain and mud.

The 640A runs a 2.5" rear rim, also on the 640E, and the latter has a 130 specified. Road sizing charts indicate the 2.5" rim is way too narrow for even a 130, but most open-class dirt bikes run the 140 on such a rim - must be different characteristics/guidelines in there somewhere. Can't say I really notice any difference between the two sizes, but this is the first 130/80. Although, I did run a 110/100 (equivalent size) BF Goodrich Crossengo DOT enduro tyre and liked it, but it's difficult to guess how much of that was down to the meaty tread rather than dimensions.


How is it wearing in terms of squaring off? Or is wear fairly even..Very even, but I don't do much in the way of long straight stuff. :Punk: I have a suspicion that the MT21 sticks better at full lean on the tar, seems I have to treat the T63 with respect in the tight stuff in a way I never had to with the MT21. Hmmm, must take it over Takaka Hill soon... the TKC80 simply couldn't hack that so it would be a good comparo.


Good to hear you've got a 1/2 way decent mileage out of it. The MT21 just wore too fast for me, and wasn't as good as I had hoped in the gravel. Dunno about the mileage; I said it wasn't chunking, it is worn a fair way down. But yes it should last longer than the MT21 which is consistent with others' experiences.

[NordieBoy]

The 640A runs a 2.5" rear rim, also on the 640E, and the latter has a 130 specified. Road sizing charts indicate the 2.5" rim is way too narrow for even a 130, but most open-class dirt bikes run the 140 on such a rim - must be different characteristics/guidelines in there somewhere.

The DR650 has a 2.5" rear rim and comes OEM with a 120 section TW42.

[BMWST?]

one set E-07's for sale.
$180.00 o.n.o
pm if interested.

JMJ
HEY i thiought they were MINE!

[clint640]

So I fitted the VRM147 to my ktm525. The 140/80-18 pirelli scorpian that came off measured 135mm mounted but has very aggressive side knobs and a flatter profile. The 140/80-18 VRM147 measures 125mm mounted. This is on a 2.15 rim. At least this one won't rub on the muffler.

How much for the VRM147?? Might get one for winter, maybe whatevers cheapest out of that & the EO-9. I've got a slightly used D606 to go on the front.

Cheers
Clint

[Taz]

Depending on where you shop around 110 - 120. Needed a bit of balancing opposite the rim lock of course.

[topo]

here's a question for the faster lads out there, what front tire would you run if cost/wear rates and availability were no issue? 90% hard/fast gravel,10% dirt.

Just thinking out loud here as the TKC/E09's just arn't "cutting the mustard" on the 640 anymore, and the michie S12's a bit sketchy on the hard pack (not to mention on wet seal, but thats a whole different problem).

Common guys lets here it:dodge:

[warewolf]

Dunno bout fast but I have some thoughts on the S12. The S12 is an NHS soft/mud tyre. It is diabolical on gravel, hardpack, tree roots and boulders, even compared to a seriously worn Dunlop D756 (intermediate). Just about any hard to intermediate tyre would work better in everything except soft conditions. Even the M12 would be better, indeed I am keen to run M12s in dry races.

I've been really pleased with the Bridgestone Gritty ED661 (http://mc.bridgestone.co.jp/en/products/gritty/index.html) (intermediate). Just quietly gets the job done. More grip than anything else I've tried, except maybe maybe the MCE.

The Metzeler MCE 6 Days Extreme (http://www.metzelermoto.com/web/catalog/moto/moto_catalogo_schedaDescription.page?categoria=/catalog/moto/off_road/enduroFIM&vehicleType=MOTO&product_id=101941&uri=/metzeler/en_IT/browser/xml/catalog/moto/OffRoad_MCE6days.xml&menu_item=/products/catalog/off_road) is supposedly an underrated tyre, used to be difficult to buy in NZ but I hear they are available now. The one I tried was already slightly used, and I broke 80% of the side knobs off on one hard/rocky Laid Back ride - a common complaint.

I've run a few IRC Battle Rally BR-99 (http://www.irc-tire.com/mce/) fronts, but been a long time since I bought one new. Had used ones on the DR-Z250 and the 640A, again seem to work okay. I'd probably rate the ED661 (and tyres with similar tread patterns) as better.

[Woodman]

funny thing with front tyres is that you don't replace them as often as the rears so you tend to get used to what you got. personally find the e09 front pretty good on gravel, but a little unpedictable when it gets slippery (wet). What is the t63 front equivalent? cos the rear i have now is bloody brilliant compared with the e09 which is still a good tyre if a little unpredictable as well.

[warewolf]

Yes, someone made that comment to me a while ago, saying that ppl forget that the front wears out. Despite having heaps of tread depth remaining, once the sharp edges are gone it is worth replacing. (This was in race context, but ppl know to replace rears once the edge is gone, because they can feel the response to the throttle, but don't make the same connection with the steering end.)

According to reports elsewhere, the T63 (http://two-wheels.michelin.com/2w/front/affich.jsp?codeRubrique=2092004112903&codePage=2092004112903_09092004174612&lang=EN) front has shallow knobs which aren't so good in loose terrain. Fans of the T63 rear tend to run a more aggressive front, eg Desert (http://two-wheels.michelin.com/2w/front/affich.jsp?codeRubrique=2092004112852&codePage=2092004112852_09092004172723&lang=EN) or Baja (http://two-wheels.michelin.com/2w/front/affich.jsp?codeRubrique=2092004112852&codePage=2092004112852_09092004173719&lang=EN) or something completely unrelated.

[topo]

Like Woodman i've found the E09 good on gravel, however i think i've started to well and truely find it's limits, thinking of trying to track down a Maxxis M7000 dualmaxx (if you can get them in nz)

http://www.maxxis.com/Repository/Images/dualmaxx_front.jpg

Although the michie Baja seems quite well priced and is available.

[Howie]

funny thing with front tyres is that you don't replace them as often as the rears so you tend to get used to what you got. personally find the e09 front pretty good on gravel, but a little unpedictable when it gets slippery (wet). What is the t63 front equivalent? cos the rear i have now is bloody brilliant compared with the e09 which is still a good tyre if a little unpredictable as well.

I'm running a T63 on the front of my KLR at the moment. It's been on for about 3500km,It is probably about half worn. I have no complaints about it. Although the knobs are fairly shallow, as the spacing between them is more than on say a TKC, they seem to hang on alright on Gravel/ dirt, except on really deep gravel, or mud. Mind you I'm not known for my speed once off the Tarseal.
On the seal it would be similar to a TKC, but might let go just fractionaly earlier.

[pampa]

I've bought a replacement rear T63, and changed the current Baja with (over 11000K of use). The T63 rear looks way less aggressive than baja

I've installed a baja I had with 6000K so may still keep the T63 in case I get to go offroad :doh:.

In the front still had the T63 I bought at the time the of the second Baja and was considering replacing it with a baja in the future. Problem is I'm currently doing a lot of commuting which kills them :blank:

Pampa


Yes, someone made that comment to me a while ago, saying that ppl forget that the front wears out. Despite having heaps of tread depth remaining, once the sharp edges are gone it is worth replacing. (This was in race context, but ppl know to replace rears once the edge is gone, because they can feel the response to the throttle, but don't make the same connection with the steering end.)

According to reports elsewhere, the T63 (http://two-wheels.michelin.com/2w/front/affich.jsp?codeRubrique=2092004112903&codePage=2092004112903_09092004174612&lang=EN) front has shallow knobs which aren't so good in loose terrain. Fans of the T63 rear tend to run a more aggressive front, eg Desert (http://two-wheels.michelin.com/2w/front/affich.jsp?codeRubrique=2092004112852&codePage=2092004112852_09092004172723&lang=EN) or Baja (http://two-wheels.michelin.com/2w/front/affich.jsp?codeRubrique=2092004112852&codePage=2092004112852_09092004173719&lang=EN) or something completely unrelated.

[_Shrek_]

here's a question for the faster lads out there, what front tire would you run if cost/wear rates and availability were no issue? 90% hard/fast gravel,10% dirt.

Just thinking out loud here as the TKC/E09's just arn't "cutting the mustard" on the 640 anymore, and the michie S12's a bit sketchy on the hard pack (not to mention on wet seal, but thats a whole different problem).

Common guys lets here it:dodge:

Continental nobbly or mitis Eo7

[junkmanjoe]

my mitas E-09 front is wearing out quite fast.
chewing out the rear of the nobs in the center, of the tire.
is it cauz i lean it over to far and ride realy fast. or other.

[NordieBoy]

my mitas E-09 front is wearing out quite fast.
chewing out the rear of the nobs in the center, of the tire.
is it cauz i lean it over to far and ride realy fast. or other.

You keep using the front brakes :doh:
How many times do I have to tell you. Brakes are for pussies!

[junkmanjoe]

very rearly do i pull the front stoppy thingy on.

[Woodman]

my mitas E-09 front is wearing out quite fast.
chewing out the rear of the nobs in the center, of the tire.
is it cauz i lean it over to far and ride realy fast. or other.

I got an e09 on the front as well and it is wearing normally so far. It is at about 5000 ks, and has outlasted the rear so far by 1500 ks. had a d606 front once which wore funny.

[junkmanjoe]

wonder if the extra weight up front is part of the cause..

[NordieBoy]

wonder if the extra weight up front is part of the cause..

What pressure do you run on the front on the seal?

[warewolf]

T63 rear update...

[edit: replaced at 4,000km; starting to mark the carcass between the tread blocks.]

3,800km and it is due for replacement, ~2-3mm tread left in the centre if I'm being optimistic. The distance vs price alone puts it into the 'more economical' category than the MT21; the fact that it hasn't started chunking until the last 3-500km is another plus. Both those characteristics are consistent with others' experiences. (And they are still cheaper than E-09s.) Performance seems slightly better, as in the dirt the MT21 was pretty slippy at 2000km whereas the T63 seemed to hold on to 3000km.

On top of that, the tyre has had a very hard life, only seeing tar on the way to rocky gravel. So I'd expect it to perform even better vs MT21 in 'normal' usage with more tarseal.

Me likee; but next purchase will most likely be an E-07, eventually, as I've scored some used DOT knobblies to enjoy first.

[junkmanjoe]

What pressure do you run on the front on the seal?

pumped up.....???
i dont bother with dumpin air. i just ride it,:scooter:
if it cant get where i want it to go,,
i wont bother trying to get up there..

[cooneyr]

I found with the D606 on the rear of the DR the tyre life would go from 2k km to about 5k km just by increasing the pressure from 22 to 30 psi. Rather than thinking about dropping pressures for grip, think about increasing pressures for tyre life when doing lots of seal/good gravel.

Cheers R

[NordieBoy]

Yep. "Normal" pressures are 18-20 psi front and rear.
Pumped up to 28f 30r for seal.

[Woodman]

I usually run about 25 each end which seems ok. Sometimes let a bit outta the front if it sledges a few times but very rarely touch the pressures mid ride.

[Underground]

I let mine down for snow (doesnt help that much)
Need an extra valve on the casing to pump up the tread.

[junkmanjoe]

Yep. "Normal" pressures are 18-20 psi front and rear.
Pumped up to 28f 30r for seal.

ill check it in the morn.

[warewolf]

A note on the BF Goodrich Crossengo and the Michelin Cross AC10.

These rear tyres are damn near identical in the tread. Only a very slight difference in the shape of some of the centre blocks (triangle vs curved), otherwise all positions, shapes, brace lugs etc etc are identical. The font for the name is also the same!

So I suspect there is some kind of cross-pollination happening in the Czech Republic where they are made. I had heard the Crossengo is a knock-off of a well known Euro tyre, now I know which one!

The Crossengo only comes in a 110/100-18, but the AC10 also comes in the next size up 120/90-18 (yes oddly in a 90 not 100 profile)... and maybe more, I've only got those two sizes to hand.

[Padmei]

So which are the cheaper option WW? Anyone used seracs? Good?

[warewolf]

Probably BF Goodrich but XF650 commented they may not be available any more. I didn't buy my AC10s.

[Woodman]

So which are the cheaper option WW? Anyone used seracs? Good?

Do you mean Maicelin Siracs?? If so, i had one on the xl rear. Great on road ok on gravel, but useless in mud or similar. They are similar to Anikees which the klr had when I got it. Same thing, you just gotta ride slow on anything but tar.

[Taz]

I have done 1472kms on the KTM 525 with tha Vee Rubber VRM147 (MT21 copy) and it's shagged now:eek5:. About 2mm left. I used these on my XT600E and got 5k easily. Will have to try something else now. Maybe a pirelli MT43. Large enduro trailie guys have suggested these may be the go.

[NordieBoy]

I have done 1472kms on the KTM 525 with tha Vee Rubber VRM147 (MT21 copy) and it's shagged now:eek5:. About 2mm left. I used these on my XT600E and got 5k easily. Will have to try something else now. Maybe a pirelli MT43. Large enduro trailie guys have suggested these may be the go.

The MT43 is a trials tyre.
It'll grip well but you may only get 147.2km out of it.

[Taz]

The MT43 is a trials tyre.
It'll grip well but you may only get 147.2km out of it.

Done your research haven't ya :)

The MT43 is a Dot approved trail/dual sport tyre with a trials pattern....

"Pirelli wanted to widen the scope of use and strengthen the eco-friendly, low-impact characteristic inherent to these tires. Rather than create a meat that is super gummy, flexible and wears quickly, the MT 43 Pro has a reinforced bias-ply carcass with stiffer sidewall and more durable rubber compound. Tread pattern is different with non-square knobbies and a DOT-legal 11mm depth. Higher speeds and increased heat from dual-sport and pavement use were part of the reason the carcass and rubber compound were strengthened. However, the sidewalls still flex and make an enormous difference absorbing sharp impacts."

"As has been mentioned, if you run in rocks, roots, dry pack, snotty stuff and clearly with the new MT-43 pavement, once you try one, well you will be a bit upset you didnt change over sooner."

Another review-
"I've been running one all summer, offroad and on. it's been great during dry rocky rides and holds well on the road too. but get into any sitcky gumbo style mud and be prepared to work hard to keep going the direction you want. I had read that prior to buying so I wasn't surprised. for most of the terrain around here (upstate NY - rocks, roots, gravel, with mud thrown in) it works really well. I've put about 1000 miles on it, about half off road, half dirt roads and pavement and it hasn't really worn much at all. no knob chunking, still have pretty good edges. I'll definitely buy another one."

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/392/1963/Motorcycle-Article/Pirelli-MT-43-Pro-Trials-Tire-Review.aspx

[NordieBoy]

Done your research haven't ya :)

The MT43 is a Dot approved trail/dual sport tyre with a trials pattern....

I left off the bit that said...

I'll take one of the useless things off your hands for bugger all and put it on my XR250 where I think it may be the ultimate trail ride tyre :D

[Taz]

I left off the bit that said...

I'll take one of the useless things off your hands for bugger all and put it on my XR250 where I think it may be the ultimate trail ride tyre :D

Unless there's lots of mud. But NZ doesn't have muddy trail rides eh?;)

[warewolf]

That's my big concern. It's well known that a trials tyre will grip better in everything except mud. Unfortunately, trail rides hereabouts have everything not excepting mud!! :crybaby: For dry summer rides it might be the schizz.

[NordieBoy]

That's my big concern. It's well known that a trials tyre will grip better in everything except mud. Unfortunately, trail rides hereabouts have everything not excepting mud!! :crybaby: For dry summer rides it might be the schizz.

Summer in Hira and some really low ratios :Punk:

[Taz]

Nationwide don't have any MT43's and have no plans to import them I've been told.

[junkmanjoe]

hi all
my mitas E-09 front, not wearing to well, its directional tyre, is it, or would it be ok to turn it back to front, to try and wear it evenly.

[NordieBoy]

hi all
my mitas E-09 front, not wearing to well, its directional tyre, is it, or would it be ok to turn it back to front, to try and wear it evenly.

Don't think it's directional?

I'm onto my 2nd turning of the MT21 front.

[junkmanjoe]

yips its got a arrow on the side .

[Woodman]

hi all
my mitas E-09 front, not wearing to well, its directional tyre, is it, or would it be ok to turn it back to front, to try and wear it evenly.

Hw many ks Joe, and what pressures.

[dino3310]

yips its got a arrow on the side .

you have to point the arrow downwards when changing the tyre

[junkmanjoe]

i have to buy a new pressure thingy i broke mine.
but direction arrow on tyre.

[cooneyr]

The e-09's will have a directional carcass (given the presence of a arrow), they obviously do not have directional tread. Basically the tyre is manufactured to take the braking loads one way only. Obviously there is no other shear (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_stress)(circumferential) loading on a front tyre.

Cheers R

[Jantar]

I fitted a set of Conti Trail Attacks to my Vstrom back in march prior to the SCRR. These were the most road oriented tyres I could get at the time. As I normally only get 6500 - 7500 km out of a set of tyres I figured that I'd have something a bit different on for winter. They have now done 7000 km and are only half worn. They are excellent on the seal, and good, but not great, on the gravel.

Yesterday I took a ride up to Lake Onslow. The road up there starts as seal, then becomes good gravel, then hard dirt, then dry clay, then wet clay, then mud when the road stops and the track begins. I stopped before the mud became bog.

OK, the Trail Attacks performance got worse the futher I went. They are useless on wet clay, and would make a bloody good plow in the mud. I'll have another go in October when the track dries out a bit and the road is officially open. That's when the guys checking out the DB1K ride will be going through.

[junkmanjoe]

The e-09's will have a directional carcass (given the presence of a arrow), they obviously do not have directional tread. Basically the tyre is manufactured to take the braking loads one way only. Obviously there is no other shear (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_stress)(circumferential) loading on a front tyre.

Cheers R

so would it be ok to turn it.

[Taz]

Yeah it'll be fine Joe.

[junkmanjoe]

:scooter:..is this a set up so i crash....:scooter:. :shutup:

[Taz]

I have run tyres against the arrows before with no problems. I doubt the DR has the brakes to rip the carcass apart and have never seen this myself. I wouldn't recommend it on a GSXR1000 race bike tho.

[junkmanjoe]

cheers mate just pulling ya leg....some times i forget its a dr and ride it like my old CBR600..

[Taz]

Yeah I've seen you :gob:

[junkmanjoe]

maybe thats why my tyre is pooed. i turn it tomorrow

[junkmanjoe]

all done, i learnt a couple things changing this tire.
there a bitch when there cold.
my new tire levers are the buzzness...work a treat.

and last make sure all your tools are in front of you when you have finished....
:doh:.........:doh:

[gav24]

Yep, its a bitch when you realise that you've managed to leave a lever inside the tyre:doh:
Or is it just me and careless heart surgeons who do that sort of thing:clap:
Did you balance the wheel after you'd finished? or is it not too worth it with all those knobblies...

Wonder how many weights you'd need to balance a wheel with a tyre lever inside the tyre somewhere...:bleh:

[junkmanjoe]

well my front tire worked ok on the last ride, and i gave it shit on the rimuatakas

[Padmei]

The E09 is nearly toast so gonna get myself a E07 unless anyone wants to talk me out of it. Anyone had bad experiences with them?

[dino3310]

heard nothing but good with the 07s, they'll last abit longer than the 09s but youll lose a little traction off road

[cooneyr]

The E09 is nearly toast so gonna get myself a E07 unless anyone wants to talk me out of it. Anyone had bad experiences with them?

Just back from a quick 300km lap of north Canty with your froggy mate. Got a E07 on the rear of the 950 at the moment. It drives ok, very easy to lock up under braking and average cornering traction (breaks out sideways easily). So if you want a play tyre that will last a long time give it ago. If you want to actually get around corners with some speed then stick with the E09 or similar (D606 rear is still my favourite for adv riding - cant get them the right side for the 950).

Cheers R

[Underground]

(breaks out sideways easily)

Oh.... so its tyres that cause that then is it ?

[Padmei]

Thanks guys - off to the shop on monday:headbang:

[tri boy]

The E09 is nearly toast so gonna get myself a E07 unless anyone wants to talk me out of it. Anyone had bad experiences with them?

Didn't like the E-07 on the rear of the scrambler.
It broke traction early under acceleration and on down hill breaking and down shifts on gravel.
It was a bit square shaped on the triumph rim, giving it a "tip in edge" that was quite unnerving.
The single cyl KLR's, DR's etc seem more suited.
I'll be going for another E-09 rear, and TKC80 front soon. Hard to beat on fatty.
MHO

[dino3310]

I'll be going for another E-09 rear, and TKC80 front soon. Hard to beat on fatty.
MHO

:clap::clap::clap: does that mean Fattys gonna get down and dirty again

[tri boy]

yup.Found some places sth of Taumaranui, east side of Whanganui river.

[cooneyr]

Oh.... so its tyres that cause that then is it ?

Ummm yes :innocent: To that extent take drives OK with a grain of salt as well. The 950 will spin up pretty much any tyre on gravel. Hell I even managed to spin it up while powering out of one of the Johns Road roundabouts at about 80kph on wet seal yesterday. That was a bit of a eye opener for me and the driver next too me!

Cheers R

[dino3310]

yup.Found some places sth of Taumaranui, east side of Whanganui river.

sweeeet, junior footy over in a couple of weeks so i'll have time for a few day rides:drool:

[timg]

Didn't like the E-07 on the rear of the scrambler.
It broke traction early under acceleration and on down hill breaking and down shifts on gravel.
It was a bit square shaped on the triumph rim, giving it a "tip in edge" that was quite unnerving.
The single cyl KLR's, DR's etc seem more suited.
I'll be going for another E-09 rear, and TKC80 front soon. Hard to beat on fatty.
MHO Yeah, I agree with that assessment, that's the way I found it on my Transalp. TKC'80's F & R were great but given the road miles I'm doing the rear didn't last long. I've just put an IRC GP110 on the back to try - highly recommended by RedKLR650 so we'll se how that goes. The trip to the Pissed Penguin should give it a good try out in a variety conditions.

[NordieBoy]

I've just put an IRC GP110 on the back to try - highly recommended by RedKLR650 so we'll se how that goes. The trip to the Pissed Penguin should give it a good try out in a variety conditions.

See what you think on rocky surfaces.
I liked the tread pattern etc but always thought it needed to be a bit softer in the compound.

[topo]

Has anyone tried the rear enduro tires from torpeedo7? at $44 each wear rates are largely irrelevant.

Thought i'd give them a go next as i've almost got my standard 700km out of the current KIWIX rear(10c/km).

[warewolf]

Has anyone tried the rear enduro tires from torpeedo7? at $44 each wear rates are largely irrelevant.Might be a bit small for the 640, at only 120/90-18. That's one size down on the E spec 130/80 and two sizes down on the A spec 140/80.

I rode a pair of WR450Fs back-to-back, one with the proper-sized rear, the other with the undersized 120/90... and boy did the one with the small tyre feel crap and struggle for grip.

[topo]

Was thinking about that but the kiwiX i'm running now is a 120 and it feels great, have run down to a 110 michy S12 with no noticable effect in traction. Might order a set tomorrow and see how they go - worst case scinario is it gets donated to a drz.

[NordieBoy]

Just ordered one of the enduro fronts from Torpedo7.
No 17" rears though :(

[Taz]

Just ordered one of the enduro fronts from Torpedo7.
No 17" rears though :(

Of course not. Real bikes don't have 17's :)

[NordieBoy]

Of course not. Real bikes don't have 17's :)

But my DR650 and Gilera Nordwest both have 17" rears :(

The XR had a 23" front stock too :D

[warewolf]

Was thinking about that but the kiwiX i'm running now is a 120 and it feels great, have run down to a 110 michy S12 with no noticable effect in traction. Ok, to repeat ad nauseum... :D

there are two main metric tyre measurement standards, equivalence-mapped as follows:
100/100-18 = 120/90-18
110/100-18 = 130/80-18
120/100-18 = 140/80-18
The former measures carcass (sidewall) width, the latter tread width. One is the Jap standard, the other Euro (ETRTO). Have posted before about which is which.

So a 110/100 is OEM size for the 640E and -1 size for the 640A.
A 120/90 is -1 size for the 640E and -2 sizes for the 640A.

I would guess your KiwiX "120" is a 120/100, nice & wide. The 110 S12 would be a 110/100 or the next size down, but the brand-name & legendary traction of the S12 is making up for the smaller footprint.

If someone says they are running "a 120" (ie unspecified profile) they could be running the small 120/90 or the large 120/100. The WR450s I rode had this situation; one was running a 120/100 the other the 120/90 which was -2 sizes. The owner of the 120/90 could tell something was wrong but mistakenly presumed his 120 was the same width as the 120/100, he knew the profile was a little shorter but didn't think it would have that much effect. He was half right.

(There are some 130/90-18s about which are 130 wide but a few % larger diameter than a 140/80, eg the Michelin Competition III rear I used on the 640A. And to throw a screwball in there, the Michelin AC10 rear comes in an odd size of 120/90 which is a sidewall-measurement and actually a 90 rather than 100 profile, but it is the larger width. I only know because I've got a 110/100 and 120/90 and lined them up against various 100/100, 110/100 and 140/80s.)

[junkmanjoe]

well its time for me to buy new tires for my bike...my E-09s are rooted..
spent more time sliding all over the shop on sunday than i did going straight..
a couple hairy moments,,,with a 100 meter drop on left hand side...:crazy:

[dino3310]

how many klms did you get out of the eo-9 front Joe

[junkmanjoe]

about 5k and i turned it back to front for a while as well. they still be ok for a bit longer on the gravel..

[dino3310]

how was the lean angle on those, could ya scrape a toe or peg

[junkmanjoe]

ummm i don't normally look at how far away my pegs are from the road..
buy my wear marks are with in 5mm of the outer edge of the tire..thats a fair way over mate..for knobs..:crazy:

[dino3310]

ummm i don't normally look at how far away my pegs are from the road..
buy my wear marks are with in 5mm of the outer edge of the tire..thats a fair way over mate..for knobs..:crazy:

ive got no chicken strips left on my front tyre which scares me cause i havent been pushing it, but still got about10-12mm on the back to go:wacko:, just a missmatch in tyres me thinks, was thinking about an e-09 or a tkc80 for the front to match or better the rear

[.chris]

I am thinking I might go chunky for this next set of tires.
Michilen Baja
http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/images/products/21.997.jpg?width=300&height=350

I do not expect them to last too long, but should be fun. Will have to remember to be gentle on the right wrist. Or this may happen.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=141624&stc=1&d=1252534242

[Padmei]

What are they like for NZ conditions tho? With a name like Baja would they be good for clay & rocks?

[Taz]

Chris was that a Vee Rubber or a Pirelli MT21?

[.chris]

What are they like for NZ conditions tho? With a name like Baja would they be good for clay & rocks?


Seems they are out of stock, so may have to look at other options anyway.

From what I have read, they are great in sand, gravel, tarmac.
Which is pretty high % of my riding. And that tread pattern seems agressive enough to handle some clay/mud I think.

[junkmanjoe]

ordered my new E-09s and will have them on before the ride at end of month.

cool

[dino3310]

ordered my new E-09s and will have them on before the ride at end of month.

cool

hey mate your working now, should be able to afford TKC80s or D606s:lol:

[junkmanjoe]

ill stick with what i know works for me and me safari slut.......they are cheap..

[dino3310]

no what ya mean, my last one was only $140, shes only half worn at 3500klms. great value for money

[Padmei]

Got my E07 - Gonna put it on tomorrow:scooter:

[topo]

put a set of E-07's on today for a WOF, man they light up easy at the lights!!!!:yes: no more traction in the wet than the kiwiX MX rear i had on earlier in the day.

[junkmanjoe]

no what ya mean, my last one was only $140, shes only half worn at 3500klms. great value for money

see dino mate....everyones going mitas....come join the club..:scooter:

[Taz]

Yeah Dino ya mitas well...........

[NordieBoy]

put a set of E-07's on today for a WOF, man they light up easy at the lights!!!!:yes: no more traction in the wet than the kiwiX MX rear i had on earlier in the day.

Not too many wouldn't light up in the wet...

[dino3310]

see dino mate....everyones going mitas....come join the club..:scooter:

tri boy converted me a over a year ago mate

[.chris]

Just orderd a new rear 140/80 18 TCK80, was only $225 fitted.
Much cheaper than I expected.

[oldrider]

Tried doing a search got one small passing comment of no consequence!

Has anyone here tried "Shinko" 705 tyres on their venture bike?

I am contemplating fitting a pair to the Tiger for a try, any comments welcome! (even rude obnoxious ones, I need a laugh) :niceone:

[NordieBoy]

They're going to be my next road biased tyres after the rear E-07 wears out.

[tri boy]

Robin at LMS can only supply E-09 18" in 130/80.
The XR650L should have between 110 to 120 in my opinion on the rear.
Do you think the 130 will be over tyred, or should I try something else for sub $200? (what though)?
He can only do a 90/90-21. I think I can live with that, but a fat 130 might be too much rubber. What say you?
Cheers,:msn-wink:

[MXNUT]

Robin at LMS can only supply E-09 18" in 130/80.
The XR650L should have between 110 to 120 in my opinion on the rear.
Do you think the 130 will be over tyred, or should I try something else for sub $200? (what though)?
He can only do a 90/90-21. I think I can live with that, but a fat 130 might be too much rubber. What say you?
Cheers,:msn-wink:

110 section tyres are only for 250cc bikes max.

I run 120/100/18 on the 400 ( and have got a dunlop D606 to fit for the next ride which is a 130/.../18 ) so 130/80/18 would be no prob for the 650.

Have you though about a Michy T63, cycletreads has them for about $125 -140 depending on size. :blank:

[tri boy]

Cheers for the advice Mark:msn-wink:
Doing a bit of research now actually, and the T63 pops up regular.
Als0 Pirelli MT21, V rubber VRM147?, and D606's.
I will sniff round town this week for deals.
Thanks again. Really need the good advice with the XR's.

[cooneyr]

Cheers for the advice Mark:msn-wink:
Doing a bit of research now actually, and the T63 pops up regular.
Als0 Pirelli MT21, V rubber VRM147?, and D606's.
I will sniff round town this week for deals.
Thanks again. Really need the good advice with the XR's.

I'm chasing a larger 140/80-18 VRM147 at the moment but from what I can find out there are none in the country at the moment. The MT21's have a bit of a tendency to chunk, never had a T63 but people seem to rave about them. I'm a huge fan of a D606. Use to run a 130 on the DR650 and it was awesome. Obviously lots of gravel down here in Canty etc and not a lot of mud. Guessing you have very different surface.

Big thing with all of these tyres is to watch pressures. I could kill a 120 wide rear D606 in about 1500kms at 22psi (DB and a bit). Put it up to 28/30psi and it will last for 5000kms. On gravel the pressure increase doesn't make a huge difference to traction. On sand/mud etc obviously drop the pressure.

Cheers R

[tri boy]

Cheers for the info:niceone:
Sent an email off to Cycletreads re the T63's and now will probably choose between them or Rob's E-09's
The D606 is also in the running if I can snavvle one in town.

[NordieBoy]

Everyone runs 130 section tyres on the DR650's.
No problems at all.

What's the rim width?

[tri boy]

Fairly certain it's 18 x 2.15
(just wiped the splooge out of the way).

[Woodman]

I had a 130 e09 on the klr and it was fine. Then went to a t63 and imho they are superior to a e09.
Wear is about the same
tar-ability is about the same.
Sid grip when leaning over or on off camber surfaces is way superior.
Only good thing about an e09 is the woohoo factor coming out of gravel corners. Only problem is the woohoo factor can turn into an oh shit moment for no apparent reason.

[warewolf]

Google says the tyre specs on the XR650L is 3.00x21 and 4.60x21. That's kinda small for the size of bike, but in line with the NX650 Dominator I had (90/90-21 and 120/90-17 in ETRTO numbers). Bear in mind a 4.60 is about a 120/90 ETRTO or 100/100 ISO.

I would not be concerned running 1 size up, ie a 130/80 ETRTO or 110/100 ISO or 5.10 (inch). Many bikes in the class run that size without issues, including the XR650R.

I've been so impressed with the T63 I'll never buy an MT21 rear again. MT21 chunks from the get-go and is no good off the seal from 2000km, probably because all the edges are ripped to shreds. The T63 lasted longer, gripped for longer, and didn't chunk until 3500km - and was cheaper to buy. Grip seems very similar although the MT21 may have the edge (ha ha) at max lean on the tar. That was only time I ever noticed the T63 behaving differently.

[cooneyr]

...I've been so impressed with the T63 I'll never buy an MT21 rear again....

Seeing as you have used both how does the T63 compare for size and profile to the MT21?. I'm assuming you has a 130/80-18 T63 vs a 140/80-18 MT21. As you know the MT21 (VRM147) is the only sub $200 knobblie that in 140 size so I'm still considering options for the 950. I cant quite yet bring myself to spend $250/350 on a rear tyre.

Cheers R

[NordieBoy]

Just got a K760 rear ($100) to go with the Innova Enduro front ($45) as my knobblie wheelset.

Seems to have a nice compliant carcass compared to the MT21.
Should be good at around 18-20psi.

[topo]

Anyone seen these? would like to see how they compare with Michey Deserts.

http://www.pirellityre.com/en_IT/browser/attachments/images/MOTO%20catalog_applicazione/scorpion_rally.jpg

[warewolf]

Seeing as you have used both how does the T63 compare for size and profile to the MT21?. I'm assuming you has a 130/80-18 T63 vs a 140/80-18 MT21.Same shite, different smell, AFAICS. The 130s all seem more rounded than the 140s which seem flatter. The MT21 is also available in the 130/80-18 but I never used that size. Will probably stay with 130s for adventure tyres.


As you know the MT21 (VRM147) is the only sub $200 knobblie that in 140 size so I'm still considering options for the 950. I cant quite yet bring myself to spend $250/350 on a rear tyre.Hmmm can't help you there.

[tri boy]

Ordered the T63 120/80 from Cycletreads.
Thought about going for the 130, but will stick with what the manual/tyre charts say.
It is being fitted to help run out the front TKC. Then I might try a 130 with a suitable front.
Thanks for the advice guys. Appreciate it;)

[dino3310]

let us know how it goes, just looked at some prices and with the VIP card i can pick them up a couple bucks cheaper than the E-09

[tri boy]

Arrived 7.00am to my door.
Less than 24hrs from my call to Cycletreads:2thumbsup
Awesome service, I think I've found my new tyre suppliers.;)

[MXNUT]

I've been so impressed with the T63 I'll never buy an MT21 rear again. MT21 chunks from the get-go and is no good off the seal from 2000km, probably because all the edges are ripped to shreds. The T63 lasted longer, gripped for longer, and didn't chunk until 3500km - and was cheaper to buy. Grip seems very similar although the MT21 may have the edge (ha ha) at max lean on the tar. That was only time I ever noticed the T63 behaving differently.

Have also run both those tyres as well as many others and the T63 is the pick of the bunch for me.

Interestingly :(one of the two major plus points for me is the grip ( and lack of flexing of the knobs ) that the T63 has at max lean on the tar, the other being the better wear rate.









`flexing of the knobs` i know that one is going to come back and bite me

[junkmanjoe]

just fitted new tires tonight, so have a set of used Mitas E-09, rear 130/80/17 front 90/90/21 aprox 3 mill tread
pm if interested

JMJ

[Padmei]

What'd ya fit Joe?

I have a new E07 on the back & am very impressed with it so far after 2 rides. Not much in it between the 09 & 07 as far as traction off road & from all reports much better mileage.

[NordieBoy]

What'd ya fit Joe?

I have a new E07 on the back & am very impressed with it so far after 2 rides. Not much in it between the 09 & 07 as far as traction off road & from all reports much better mileage.

I got my E-07's from Joe :D

[junkmanjoe]

What'd ya fit Joe?

I have a new E07 on the back & am very impressed with it so far after 2 rides. Not much in it between the 09 & 07 as far as traction off road & from all reports much better mileage.

Hi Padmei.

new set of E-09's mate, i like them..good grip on the road and serve me well off road. and there a good price, and as always great service from LMS imports from palmerston north.

over night delivery.

[cooneyr]

Hmmm, wonder how long this will last? The E-07 has 2200km's on it. Still looking pretty reasonable and it has not had the easiest life.

[Underground]

E07... 11,000 km of gut wrenching horsepower and still going strong

143001

[Padmei]

Hmmm, wonder how long this will last? The E-07 has 2200km's on it. Still looking pretty reasonable and it has not had the easiest life.

Sure it's an E07? Don't look like mine

[NordieBoy]

Sure it's an E07? Don't look like mine

If you had a 140 E-07 it'd look like that.

[Underground]

If you had a 140 E-07 it'd look like that.

Yeah, i was going to get one like cooney's but I've got a 2.75 rim and you need a 4.00 to fit the 140 , big boys rims padmei ,750 @'s and 950's have them
Shit now I'm starting to sound like a fooking tyre anorak :no: :no:
must stop posting in this thread before its too late

[cooneyr]

Yeah, i was going to get one like cooney's but I've got a 2.75 rim and you need a 4.00 to fit the 140 , big boys rims padmei ,750 @'s and 950's have them
Shit now I'm starting to sound like a fooking tyre anorak :no: :no:
must stop posting in this thread before its too late

I really need a 150 wide tyre cause the 950 rims are 4.00 (ferken huge!). I'd replace it with a 3.5 if I ding it up. The 140 is only just useable cause the side walls are vertical and have no shape to them. I'm still hanging out for the 150 wide E09 I keep hearing rumours about. I've grown to like the E09 rear on the big bikes as a reasonable millage tyre which still has a bit of grip for braking and mud (things I dont like E07 for).

Going to see how long the MT21 lasts in the mean time. I'm guessing about 2000kms ;) Just enough to do one 300km ride round Nth Canty and the DB pre run.

[tri boy]

So I scored a new Dunlop D903 front for $55 off John at Boyds today. this with the new Mich T63 rear should give me better grip and control over the worn TKC's front and rear. I need all the help I can get.
Havn't a clue about the D903 other than I was told it was OE fitment to DRZ dirt bikes. MXNUT hopefully will know a bit about them, but for 55pingers, I couldn't pass it by.;)
(these tyres are on the XRL. Obviously not the Scrambler)

[dino3310]

So I scored a new Dunlop D903 front for $55 off John at Boyds today.
:gob::gob::gob:

[tri boy]

:gob::gob::gob:
I know!:woohoo::woohoo:
( I think he just feels sorry for me for some reason. Kanny says I'm sphecial also)

[dino3310]

we all think your sphecial mate :lol:

John might think your still unemployed, if so milk it:whistle:

[OV Lander]

So what is the verdict then between the T63 and the E-09? On line they look damn similar, but is there a difference in wear/performance when on the bike?

Whose tried both?

[tri boy]

I've used the E-09's for about two years and have been impressed with grip and wear.
I'm gunna try the T63 this weekend, but on a totally different bike.
If it is a shit tyre(which i doubt), then MXNUT is shouting free tyres for life for all adv riders:woohoo:
(I jest Mark);)

[Oscar]

I've used the E-09's for about two years and have been impressed with grip and wear.
I'm gunna try the T63 this weekend, but on a totally different bike.
If it is a shit tyre(which i doubt), then MXNUT is shouting free tyres for life for all adv riders:woohoo:
(I jest Mark);)

I'd be interested in your thoughts on that as I'm gonna need tyre on the 625 shortly. I forgot to ask earlier, did you bring your new scoot around the other day? I got a less than accurate message from number 2 son about someone fitting your description turning up when I was out at Footy.....

[tri boy]

I'd be interested in your thoughts on that as I'm gonna need tyre on the 625 shortly. I forgot to ask earlier, did you bring your new scoot around the other day? I got a less than accurate message from number 2 son about someone fitting your description turning up when I was out at Footy.....

Yup. Me and Dino popped in. #2 son was quite amused by the names he needed to try and remember.
Going by the weather updates, I think the T63 is a good choice. I'll be slip sliding anyway on the tall bush pig. i've started taking abseiling lessons so I can dismount easier:laugh:

[MXNUT]

I'm gunna try the T63 this weekend, but on a totally different bike.
If it is a shit tyre(which i doubt), then MXNUT is shouting free tyres for life for all adv riders:woohoo:
(I jest Mark);)

Yup no problem, you can have all my old slicks when i have finished with them
FREE FOR LIFE :laugh::laugh:

[Waihou Thumper]

I see 130/80/18 is the biggest they go for rear...
I could do that for the Husaberg...

[topo]

I've just put a deestone rear on the 640 for the morelys 6hr enduro on sunday, haven't run it yet but will report back next week. in the mean time i thought some of the more offroad guys might also be interested in them also.
http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/486-farm_tyres/3092-deestone_off_road_tyres.aspx

[Woodman]

So what is the verdict then between the T63 and the E-09? On line they look damn similar, but is there a difference in wear/performance when on the bike?

Whose tried both?

I have tried both. T63 performs better and lasts about the same.
Go back a few pages and you will see some feedback

[Waihou Thumper]

I've just put a deestone rear on the 640 for the morelys 6hr enduro on sunday, haven't run it yet but will report back next week. in the mean time i thought some of the more offroad guys might also be interested in them also.
http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/486-farm_tyres/3092-deestone_off_road_tyres.aspx

would you ride on the road for a short time too? Nice and cheap....
I guess the knobs could break off on the Tar....BUT would be okay for metal I suppose?

[topo]

would you ride on the road for a short time too? Nice and cheap....
I guess the knobs could break off on the Tar....BUT would be okay for metal I suppose?


It'll definately get a run on the road, i've had a KIWIX mx rear on for the last 700km (almost toast now) and it goes as well on the road as the E09 I had previous to that.

I've now given up spending huge amounts of money on "dual purpose" tires, I now run mx tires as i don't find they slow me down much on the seal, are great on gravel of all kinds and ROCK off road!:Punk: If i can get 800km out of a $65 mx tire it's better value to me than spending $140-$2xx for an E09/TKC which i still only get 2-4000km from.

[CrazyFrog]

Yep, wot 'e said. Most DOT knobblies seem to ride fine on the tar, and they're cheap. You've just gotta respect them in the wet, but then again, I don't do rain. :no:

[pete376403]

I've just put a deestone rear on the 640 for the morelys 6hr enduro on sunday, haven't run it yet but will report back next week. in the mean time i thought some of the more offroad guys might also be interested in them also.
http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/486-farm_tyres/3092-deestone_off_road_tyres.aspx
I put Deestone 4.60x17 on the back of the KLR for the CCA ride last year. It was quite ok on sealed roads (dry) and great in the dirt. I've used it for a few other dirt rides as well, hardly any wear at all, no knobs torn off yet. At $65 cant be beat. Only problem - the sidewalls are really stiff, it was a bastard to put it on the wheel.

[Underground]

I've finished with my E07 now after 11800 km ,was in town on the weekend and thinking about nipping out to check out the 6 hour when I noticed a couple of bits of canvas showing :eek5: so I snuck off home instead .
Incase anyone wants to know ,from first seeing the canvas to wearing through the first layer and part through the second takes 120 km .
Apart from being skint the reason it was still on the bike is because it was still working really well on our hard packed gravel /clay roads and seal ,even the offroad stuff if it wasnt mud.
While on the E07 subject ,how do they go on the front (nordie?) I have a lot of faith in the TKC80 but will be looking at a newie for the DB and there's quite a price diferential I believe (and if I put an E07 on I'll have a matched pair for the first time ever)

144408

[RedKLR650]

I've finished with my E07 now after 11800 km ,was in town on the weekend and thinking about nipping out to check out the 6 hour when I noticed a couple of bits of canvas showing :eek5: so I snuck off home instead .
Incase anyone wants to know ,from first seeing the canvas to wearing through the first layer and part through the second takes 120 km .


Hi all,

attached is a shot of my IRC GP110R 5.10 S17 after about 7000kms of ( sneakily looking over his shoulder for :Police: ) er, HARD road use on seal over winter, went on a couple of short 200km round the block runs the other weekend and my mate said, oops, seems like you're up for a new tyre, better take a look

Very happy with the grip on seal, as my youtube video can testify.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZwHNaAgiH0

Can't remember the exact price for the replacement from Cycletreads ( have had it sitting here for a few months now ) but believe it's good value for the $$$

[NordieBoy]

While on the E07 subject ,how do they go on the front (nordie?) I have a lot of faith in the TKC80 but will be looking at a newie for the DB and there's quite a price diferential I believe (and if I put an E07 on I'll have a matched pair for the first time ever)

Nowt wrong with the front one.
Same good compound and went fine up Mt Pat in the snow.
Grips in all the same situations the rear does.

The only reason I'd put my beloved MT21 back on the front is if I was going for a long ride >90% off road.
The E-07 will do it fine otherwise.

[oldrider]

Nowt wrong with the front one.
Same good compound and went fine up Mt Pat in the snow.
Grips in all the same situations the rear does.

The only reason I'd put my beloved MT21 back on the front is if I was going for a long ride >90% off road.
The E-07 will do it fine otherwise.

I had a set (Mitas EO7's) put onto the TransAlp way back and they actually put the front one on back to front. (rotation)

Had to do a couple of K of mixed riding before I could change it and to my surprise, I actually preferred it's performance the wrong way around! :scratch:

[topo]

After the 6hr enduro last weekend from new this is how the Deestone rear (140/18) looked like.http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn175/topo-t-south/IMG_4071.jpg

Really impressed me given its $65 price tag, the front Inova from torpeedo7 (superX model) is absolute rubbish on the hard pack that i've ridden on since fitting it..... better than a tkc or E09 front but shite by off road tire standards.

[warewolf]

the front Inova from torpeedo7 (superX model) is absolute rubbish on the hard pack that i've ridden on since fitting it..... better than a tkc or E09 front but shite by off road tire standards.How's it rate relative to the Michelin S12 front (since it is a copy thereof)?

I found the S12 front to be hopeless on hardpack - well not hopeless, but well down on grip compared to the Dunlop D756 intermediate. That was new S12 vs very worn D756.

[topo]

How's it rate relative to the Michelin S12 front (since it is a copy thereof)?


I've got the superX version which is quite different to the Enduro (s12 copy), the SX is far more "slippery" on the hardpack compaired to the michy S12's that i have been running up until now. will try the Innova Enduro next, but its probably more to do with compound rather than pattern in the sub $40/tire range.

[Taz]

The S12 is a soft terrain tyre. Bound to be out of it's element on hardpack.

[oldrider]

Well, I asked on this thread a while ago about these tyres and got one reply!

I bought a pair and had them fitted at Oamaru Honda!

Unfortunately we ran out of sticky leads and it was late and I had to get home!

We used duck tape to hold some on as a temporary measure but got there eventually.

They are a bit tricky to balance it seems, others have mentioned this.

The sticky labels on the tyres are emphatic that the "red dot" should line up with the valve stem, for best balance.

What freeking red dot?

OK, away home, ever concious of new tyres and the unfamiliar feel but soon began to feel at ease with them, carefully working them into the corners and quietly raising the speed!

Found a little bit of gravel to play in and scrub them a little bit more all over.

Stopped and checked them and the bike all over, checked the pressures.

I had told Oamaru Honda that I always run 36 and 42 and that is what they had given me!

Side walls state Max Psi 33 front and back, oops my....mistake!

Reset pressures to 33psi and away again into the last fast sort of twisty bits toward home!

Bit of a tendency to weave or rock a little, during harder cornering over rougher seal but not enough to alarm, the back was holding fast onto the deck OK.

Around 80-90-100 (English bike) the slight weave felt as if it might get a little testy, so I dropped back and attacked a few corners harder and slower but it just stayed the same, weird feeling.

Home safely, (100km) checked bike and tyres, just slightly warm to touch and all the dust warn off right across the tyres, every thing OK so far.

Today it was raining sleeting hailing and trying damned hard to snow, in other words "wet".

Ideal, check bike, reset pressures front 30psi back 33psi and off for a lick around Lake Aviemore!

Tyres feel good on the road, do the old obnoxious weave to settle myself in and away up over Benmore dam, road nice and wet covered in rocks and sheepshit, great!

By the time I got to Aviemore power station the ride was just so sweet, I turned down to Kurow and got into things a bit more.

The Shinko's were starting to settle in quite nicely and felt secure so turned back for home at Kurow and increased the velocity of the action all the way home!

These Shinko's are continuous rating "Q", as I understand it, limited to 99mph sustained use, that means bursts in excess of 100 must be limited and short but who does that anyway?

On arrival home I shot up the local Otematata Station road to have another wee rush on the gravel and to get the Key to the back yards so I could try them out in more varied conditions.

Overall I have begun to think these 705 Shinko's just might be the goods for our requirements.

They have done everything right so far, dry and wet they feel secure, they handle thick gravel and rough washouts OK, grass and mud OK, puddles and ground water OK, so that only leaves two up and load tests to go and I'm sold.

Don't know the sweet spot for the pressures yet but that will be a work in progress for a while, they wont be far away from where they are now!

The little weave has been getting less and less as the miles increase so between wearing in, getting the pressures spot on and the balancing, I think that will disappear all together!

In conclusion, I have only done 150 miles (240km) on them but I like the tyres and think that they just might be a winner. Cheers, John.

[NordieBoy]

Good news there John. The look quite good on the bike too.

[MXNUT]

Well, I asked on this thread a while ago about these tyres and got one reply!

I bought a pair and had them fitted at Oamaru Honda!

Unfortunately we ran out of sticky leads and it was late and I had to get home!

We used duck tape to hold some on as a temporary measure but got there eventually.

They are a bit tricky to balance it seems, others have mentioned this.

The sticky labels on the tyres are emphatic that the "red dot" should line up with the valve stem, for best balance.

What freeking red dot?

OK, away home, ever concious of new tyres and the unfamiliar feel but soon began to feel at ease with them, carefully working them into the corners and quietly raising the speed!

Found a little bit of gravel to play in and scrub them a little bit more all over.

Stopped and checked them and the bike all over, checked the pressures.

I had told Oamaru Honda that I always run 36 and 42 and that is what they had given me!

Side walls state Max Psi 33 front and back, oops my....mistake!

Reset pressures to 33psi and away again into the last fast sort of twisty bits toward home!

Bit of a tendency to weave or rock a little, during harder cornering over rougher seal but not enough to alarm, the back was holding fast onto the deck OK.

Around 80-90-100 (English bike) the slight weave felt as if it might get a little testy, so I dropped back and attacked a few corners harder and slower but it just stayed the same, weird feeling.

Home safely, (100km) checked bike and tyres, just slightly warm to touch and all the dust warn off right across the tyres, every thing OK so far.

Today it was raining sleeting hailing and trying damned hard to snow, in other words "wet".

Ideal, check bike, reset pressures front 30psi back 33psi and off for a lick around Lake Aviemore!

Tyres feel good on the road, do the old obnoxious weave to settle myself in and away up over Benmore dam, road nice and wet covered in rocks and sheepshit, great!

By the time I got to Aviemore power station the ride was just so sweet, I turned down to Kurow and got into things a bit more.

The Shinko's were starting to settle in quite nicely and felt secure so turned back for home at Kurow and increased the velocity of the action all the way home!

These Shinko's are continuous rating "Q", as I understand it, limited to 99mph sustained use, that means bursts in excess of 100 must be limited and short but who does that anyway?

On arrival home I shot up the local Otematata Station road to have another wee rush on the gravel and to get the Key to the back yards so I could try them out in more varied conditions.

Overall I have begun to think these 705 Shinko's just might be the goods for our requirements.

They have done everything right so far, dry and wet they feel secure, they handle thick gravel and rough washouts OK, grass and mud OK, puddles and ground water OK, so that only leaves two up and load tests to go and I'm sold.

Don't know the sweet spot for the pressures yet but that will be a work in progress for a while, they wont be far away from where they are now!

The little weave has been getting less and less as the miles increase so between wearing in, getting the pressures spot on and the balancing, I think that will disappear all together!

In conclusion, I have only done 150 miles (240km) on them but I like the tyres and think that they just might be a winner. Cheers, John.

The Million dollar question is how do they stack up $ wise ???

[dino3310]

Good news there John. The look quite good on the bike too.

2nd that.
keep us up dated as the klms wear on John

[NordieBoy]

The Million dollar question is how do they stack up $ wise ???

$104 front and $120 rear from bits4bikes in KLR650 and DR650 sizes.

[dino3310]

shite thats cheap, will be interesting to see what kind of mileage the Tiger gets out of them

[Kokopelli]

I've just posted this in another forum. Your results may vary.

My Shinko experiment is now over and I want to withdraw my endorsement. Today my rear tyre delaminated. Several tread blocks looked as if they were about to pop off and the inside of the tyre showed bubbles. Luckily I spotted it before I rode the bike home. Well, you could feel it while riding. Thethe tyre place I go to is only 2km down the road from work. They will be sending the tyre back and hopefully I'll get some money refunded.

Yep, several people will say "I've told you so"

[NordieBoy]

I've just posted this in another forum. Your results may vary.

My Shinko experiment is now over and I want to withdraw my endorsement. Today my rear tyre delaminated. Several tread blocks looked as if they were about to pop off and the inside of the tyre showed bubbles. Luckily I spotted it before I rode the bike home. Well, you could feel it while riding. Thethe tyre place I go to is only 2km down the road from work. They will be sending the tyre back and hopefully I'll get some money refunded.

Yep, several people will say "I've told you so"

Which model Shinko?

[Kokopelli]

the Shinko 705

[oldrider]

I've just posted this in another forum. Your results may vary.

My Shinko experiment is now over and I want to withdraw my endorsement. Today my rear tyre delaminated. Several tread blocks looked as if they were about to pop off and the inside of the tyre showed bubbles. Luckily I spotted it before I rode the bike home. Well, you could feel it while riding. Thethe tyre place I go to is only 2km down the road from work. They will be sending the tyre back and hopefully I'll get some money refunded.

Yep, several people will say "I've told you so"

Fair enough but what are the factors, that would be helpfull!

Like how many Km, what pressures were you running, was it the front or back or both, exactly which model were they?

These things would be helpful to know, also how the Shinko company, importers and distributors react?

I have seen and had just as much problems on the odd occasion from top of the line established brands so it helps to have a few facts with such a denigration!

[Kokopelli]

Fair enough but what are the factors, that would be helpfull!

Like how many Km, what pressures were you running, was it the front or back or both, exactly which model were they?

These things would be helpful to know, also how the Shinko company, importers and distributors react?

I have seen and had just as much problems on the odd occasion from top of the line established brands so it helps to have a few facts with such a denigration!

33 psi, 5000km, it's the rear tyre on my 1150GS. The distributor is sending it back. I've liked the tyre, but have lost my confidence in it. I know it's a budget tyre, but I'd still like it to stay in one piece.

Most of the km came from commuting, some spirited riding and a bit of gravel riding.

I've been lucky and have had no problems with Michelin, Metzeler or Continental. We have three bikes and go through lots of tyres a year.

These are 705 adventure tyres, designed for heavy dual sport bikes, they've got to be built well enough to do the job. For a budget tyre I could put up with a funny wear pattern or accelerated wear, or maybe a twitchy tyre. But not with the tyre coming apart, that's where I draw the line.

[oldrider]

33 psi, 5000km, it's the rear tyre on my 1150GS. The distributor is sending it back. I've liked the tyre, but have lost my confidence in it. I know it's a budget tyre, but I'd still like it to stay in one piece.

Most of the km came from commuting, some spirited riding and a bit of gravel riding.

I've been lucky and have had no problems with Michelin, Metzeler or Continental. We have three bikes and go through lots of tyres a year.

These are 705 adventure tyres, designed for heavy dual sport bikes, they've got to be built well enough to do the job. For a budget tyre I could put up with a funny wear pattern or accelerated wear, or maybe a twitchy tyre. But not with the tyre coming apart, that's where I draw the line.

Hey thanks for the details and I agree with your attitude toward tyres on a bike!

I assume your tyre size is the same as mine! 150/70-17?

Obviously you did everything that was expected of you from a manufacturers point of view in tyre maintenance, care and attention!

Interestingly enough, when I questioned the NZ distributor recently, one of their representatives told me they had not had any returns!

Did you have a 705 on the front too, or was it just the back one?

I have been running Pirelli Scorpions ever since the first set (2 rear and one front) of Anakee's supplied on the Tiger.

The Pirelli are far better tyres than the Anakees, IMHO!

5,000km is not a very high mileage to get from a rear tyre, I average about 6 to 7 K miles (11 to 12K in Km) from my rear tyres. (double that for the front)

Our shortest trip/ride is generally not less than 200km so the engine and tyres are mostly warm and on long runs, loaded up and moving along!

We spend quite a lot of time travelling on gravel roads, probably 75/25% would be on the conservative side, not that that means anything, it's just what we do!

We are old and getting less aggressive in our riding style now but we still whip the cat a bit when the opportunity presents it's self, we both know what the Tiger's top speed on seal and gravel feels like!

With the Q rating I thought that it might assist us in matching Mr Plod's ambitions for our roadside manners and behaviour!

Oh well, we are committed now so we will keep a close eye on our little black Japanese and Korean friends (the tyres) and see how they go!

[Kokopelli]

Yes, it's the same tyre size. The tyre had 5000km on it, but looked like it could easily double this amount. The wear was also distributed quite evenly, with no obvious flat spot.

I had and still have an Anakee on the front. The last one lasted up to 16000km, but had a pronounced saw-tooth pattern by then. This bike is my main form of transport, so I needed a new tyre immediately.

I am usually not picky when it comes to tyres. I used to run Tourance, but they've become too expensive. I found the Anakee to be good tyres, but it's always possible that there are better ones available.

I liked the Shinko 705 because the tread pattern worked really well on gravel and they seemed to stick well enough on the road, wet or dry.

Even though my tyres were mismatched with a radial on the front and a cross-ply on the rear I got confident enough to run it to the edge. Having said that, getting to the edge of the Shinko seems to be harder than reaching the edge of an Anakee.

Chances are this was just a fluke. I know I could pick up a nail anytime and deflate the tyre with a similar result. But seeing the tyre in this state has certainly spooked me.

When I just got the tyre I queried the tyre pressure with Shinko. Their response wasn't really satisfactory. I know that 33psi is the maximum allowable tyre pressure, but is this the ideal pressure for a 250kg bike?

The TKC80 is also a cross-ply and from memory (I may be wrong here) it has a mximum pressure of 42psi. BMW recommends 36 psi for the rear tyre.

Maybe the tyre was fine, but is just not suitable for my heavy bike, or it was just a manufacturing fluke. As you have said, this can happen. Mind you, I know stuff-all about how they do quality control on tyres.

Maybe it's: round, check, black, check Ok, good to go?

I certainly hope it was just a fluke. Because I thought these tyres had a good potential.

[Howie]

On the subject of Shinko tyres I've had a shinko E700 on the back of my KLR for the last 4500-5000km and would have put another one on except none in the country in the right size untill late November. I used it as a all around tyre lots of gravel roads, a few 4WD roads, and probably about 50% sealed roads in all conditions, had no problems at all with it.
Have just brought a Michelin T63 to put on soon, as that is what I am running on the front.

[oldrider]

I have an E-mail address for a Shinko rep that replied to my enquiries, would you like it?

I will PM it to you if you like!

You might get a better run from this guy if you tell him what happened and quote the details off the wall of the tyre!

[Kokopelli]

I have an E-mail address for a Shinko rep that replied to my enquiries, would you like it?

I will PM it to you if you like!

You might get a better run from this guy if you tell him what happened and quote the details off the wall of the tyre!

Is it a NZ Rep.? Because the American Shinko tyre specialist I contacted initially told me to run the tyres at 40psi and up to 46psi. He'd gotten the info from the Korean Shinko website, which was of course incorrect. They have since changed it.

For the record, I've never put in more than 33psi and also had to remind the tyre fitter to do the same. I no longer have the tyre, as it will be sent back to the importer. I hope they won't just replace it with another one.

Howie, I have T63 front and rear on my R80GS. These a great tyres and go well on the road to and from rides. However, I prefer the M21 on the front. It's more aggressive and handles just as well on the road. The T63 front has puny little knobbies. The next set will be D606's. It's my adventure bike, so it really on gets used when the going is likely to get tough.

[NordieBoy]

The Shinko 244 is a good value rear and I get about 8000km from the rear on the 650 so on the little Kwakka I'd expect even better mileage.

Not too sure on the current price difference between it and the TW302 though.

[klxmerida]

Where in Nelson do you get them from? Its not a brand I have heard of before, but any local shop should be able to order them in right? The TW302 has a RRP of $100 according CycleTreads.

[NordieBoy]

From Clive (CycleTreads) or anywhere really.

[motorcyclesonline.net]

Hello
You state that the maximum allowable tyre pressure for the front tyre is 33psi

This pressure is based on a maximum load of 243kg as shown on the tyre

The rear tyre is rated at 640lbs at 41psi

Can I suggest that you should never run a pressure less than that recommended by the motorcycle manufacturer and if you are loading up the machine, to increase pressure accordingly

As acceleration & braking forces are applied, you will exceed this load rating and need to increase the pressure to allow for this

My comments are based on 40yrs automotive experience and seeing taxis achieve 80 - 100000km from a set of tyres simply by utilising correct tyre pressures - this is particularly so with radials which require the pressure to give the sidewalls rigidity

Hope this helps

Bill


Yes, it's the same tyre size. The tyre had 5000km on it, but looked like it could easily double this amount. The wear was also distributed quite evenly, with no obvious flat spot.

I had and still have an Anakee on the front. The last one lasted up to 16000km, but had a pronounced saw-tooth pattern by then. This bike is my main form of transport, so I needed a new tyre immediately.

I am usually not picky when it comes to tyres. I used to run Tourance, but they've become too expensive. I found the Anakee to be good tyres, but it's always possible that there are better ones available.

I liked the Shinko 705 because the tread pattern worked really well on gravel and they seemed to stick well enough on the road, wet or dry.

Even though my tyres were mismatched with a radial on the front and a cross-ply on the rear I got confident enough to run it to the edge. Having said that, getting to the edge of the Shinko seems to be harder than reaching the edge of an Anakee.

Chances are this was just a fluke. I know I could pick up a nail anytime and deflate the tyre with a similar result. But seeing the tyre in this state has certainly spooked me.

When I just got the tyre I queried the tyre pressure with Shinko. Their response wasn't really satisfactory. I know that 33psi is the maximum allowable tyre pressure, but is this the ideal pressure for a 250kg bike?

The TKC80 is also a cross-ply and from memory (I may be wrong here) it has a mximum pressure of 42psi. BMW recommends 36 psi for the rear tyre.

Maybe the tyre was fine, but is just not suitable for my heavy bike, or it was just a manufacturing fluke. As you have said, this can happen. Mind you, I know stuff-all about how they do quality control on tyres.

Maybe it's: round, check, black, check Ok, good to go?

I certainly hope it was just a fluke. Because I thought these tyres had a good potential.

[oldrider]

Hello
You state that the maximum allowable tyre pressure for the front tyre is 33psi

This pressure is based on a maximum load of 243kg as shown on the tyre

The rear tyre is rated at 640lbs at 41psi

Can I suggest that you should never run a pressure less than that recommended by the motorcycle manufacturer and if you are loading up the machine, to increase pressure accordingly

As acceleration & braking forces are applied, you will exceed this load rating and need to increase the pressure to allow for this

My comments are based on 40yrs automotive experience and seeing taxis achieve 80 - 100000km from a set of tyres simply by utilising correct tyre pressures - this is particularly so with radials which require the pressure to give the sidewalls rigidity

Hope this helps

Bill

Hey there Bill, not really disputing your logic but..........

Don't you really mean, the tyre manufacturer? Unless you are running the tyres "recommended" by the motorcycle manufacturer!

The tyres being discussed are not brands and types recommended by the motorcycle manufacturer!

Also:

The tyres we are discussing here are not radials, they are, stiff walled Bias ply tyres! (whatever that actually means, cross-ply maybe)

The rear tyre is rated at 717lbs @ 33 psi max. (the one in question by Kokopelli) It is a, "Shinko, Trail Master E 705".

The front tyre is rated at 536lbs @ 33 psi max.

These tyres are designed and marketed for 75% road - 25% off road use.

What we are trying to establish is whether or not these tyres can become a suitable, reliable, economic and safe substitution for the recommended tyres! :yes:

I am currently trialling a set of these on my (06) Triumph Tiger 955i, they seem OK so far (in most conditions) but very early days yet! (311-mixed miles)

[NordieBoy]

From the Whites page...


NEW FOR 2009! SHINKO 705 DUAL SPORT TYRE

New from Shinko, the 705 is a DOT approved dual sport tyre designed for 75% street and 25% trail riding. An aggressive tread pattern provides excellent wet and dry weather adhesion and the compound resists tearing while riding off road. 4-ply Nylon construction.
Available: H Rated (230 KPH) EXCEPT FOR 4.10-18 which is P Rated (150 KPH).

[oldrider]

From the Whites page...

True but the bigger tyres are "Q" rated!

[clint640]

Can I suggest that you should never run a pressure less than that recommended by the motorcycle manufacturer

You can. But I'm still going to let my tyres down to much less than that for offroad situations as would most who are reading this forum ;)

Cheers
Clint

[umopom]

Always a compromise but............... I have been running a Mitas E-07 on the rear for the last 2000kms and like the balance - good traction in most conditions and wearing well.

http://www.mitas.cz/index.php?stranka=300&scid=52&pid=386&thread=&size=

[NordieBoy]

True but the bigger tyres are "Q" rated!

Looks like only the 150 is Q and the rest are H rated bar that P rated one...

[NordieBoy]

I asked Whites if the 150 was H rated and got this back...


Q rated, as is the 19X110/90. I will amend the site.

Kind Regards,

Jade Hedges

[oldrider]

My trialling of these tyres has indicated to me that the 33 psi max is too low and the tyre will very likely fail if adhered to, especially under load!

I have received an E-mail from "Shinko" NZ importer distributors (Whites) advising me to increase the Max to 36 psi cold.

They also advise that manufacturing will be altered to reflect this on the tyre wall in the future.

Note: I am not advising anybody to change what they are doing, just saying what I am doing!

I am going to re trial mine at 36 psi cold asap in exactly the same conditions as I did today.

Our test ride today had the tyre too hot to hold to and showing an increase in pressure to 38+ psi.

That was just the bare bike and two up ridden 30 miles on a private sealed road @ about 70 mph!

I am contemplating a trip North at the end of this month, two up and loaded to the max!

IMHO the tyre would fail under those conditions at 33 psi (cold) !

I am particularly keen to see an improvement with the higher pressure (from cold) without the extreme rise in temperature under load!

It will be interesting to see what the (hot) pressure increases to as well.

When I first ran the tyres, they were accidently inflated to 36 & 42 as per usual for the radials and they ran as cool as cucumbers!

The rear tyre got a lot hotter when I reduced it to the required 33 psi even with an unloaded bike!

Mind you it was after getting a bit of a work out on that private road!

If anyone wants a copy of the E-mail from Whites, PM me your address and I will E-mail it to you.

[That looks like fun]

When I was just a puppy I was told that the pressure should rise by no more than 2 psi between a cold tyre and a hot tyre. If it did then the pressure was too low. :weep:
Could be a load of bollocks but just felt like typing something :lol:

[oldrider]

Shinko's seem OK so far, as long as I lift my pressure in the rear to match my load!

I am running mine at:

Front between 30-33 psi. set cold. (increases by 3 psi when hot)

Rear 36 psi light bike, 38 psi rider & pillion, 40 psi fully loaded. set cold. (increases by 6 psi when hot)

How many Km they last for will of course be very interesting!

I have found them to be very good in all conditions and all terrain!

They do feel rather weird when you first hit a patch of wet shiny black seal. (I did this in heavy rain, often.)

I chucked the Tiger about a bit on some of it but it stayed right on course no drama, just felt funny!

[NordieBoy]

Sounding good.

[dino3310]

Sounding good.

shit mate dont you sleep:eek5:

[warewolf]

Useful page explaining tyre sizing differences:
MICHELIN OFF-ROAD TIRE SIZING EXPLAINED (http://www.michelinmotorcycle.com/mxsizing.html)

[oldrider]

Sounding good.

1348 miles of mixed riding now on the Shinko's, looking good, feeling good, apart from the little splice release, which doesn't seem to have changed much anyway!

Mrs O and I went for a ride across the Dansey Pass yesterday and I was very pleased with them in the gravel on the day!

All the vehicles we caught up to pulled over and let us pass, one oh-shit moment with a ewe and lamb, very windy both ways, road was in excellent condition!

The Shinko bias ply's do feel a bit different but they do feel as good or better than any other tyre I have used on the Tiger!

Cold (psi) pressures were: 30 front 38 rear.

I leave the front at 30 psi the rear at 36 psi and only increase the pressure of the rear tyre 2 psi per person weight, cold!

Dynabeads in for balance and keep speed below 6,000 revs in sixth (Q rating) and so far everything seems sweet!

Edit: Removed lead, grams: Front 60gm. Rear 50gm.

Just gotta see how far the Shinko's will go now! :shifty:

[cold comfort]

Reading this with interest as am having a Shinko fitted to the front of the DR before the Back of Beyond next weekend. The Trailwing is too low and rounded off for the length of the trip i fear. Will be able to report on the performance later no doubt!

[cold comfort]

well after sveral hundred k's on all surfaces i am quite satisfied with the performance of the Shinko so far. Somewhat whiney on the road i notice tho. Certainly cheap as chips also. The front started to wash out on only one corner but i suspect it was more my fault. The balding Trailwing on the back held out well except in slippery mud, dumping me uncerimoniously at the side of the river crossing! I'm suitably impressed enough to replace the rear with a Shinko also. The guy i was following had a complete set and was also very happy with them.

[NordieBoy]

well after sveral hundred k's on all surfaces i am quite satisfied with the performance of the Shinko so far. Somewhat whiney on the road i notice tho.

Shinko 244 or 705?

[junkmanjoe]

two free tires.............
90/90/21 mitas E-09

130/80/17 mitas E-09

aprox 3 mil tread

FREE to a good home.

JMJ

[cold comfort]

Shinko 244 or 705?

244's as it happens. I took what Advance were able to source at the time rather than any preference.

[NordieBoy]

244's as it happens. I took what Advance were able to source at the time rather than any preference.

Don't like the 244 front. Didn't really do anything wrong but didn't inspire confidence.

I do like the 244 rear though. Slides predictably and good everywhere.

The Mitas E-07 rear is better virtually everywhere though :D

[_Shrek_]

The Mitas E-07 rear is better virtually everywhere though :D

have just gone back to Eo 9's coz of where i've been ridiing, but have just got 22700 k's out of my rear Eo7 will post a pick as soon as i can, mostly HW runing from Canterbury to Central Otago

[.chris]

Just wanted a 2nd opinion on these tires, done about 11,000km and they started to feel unstable at tarmac speeds, not sure if it is just tire pressure.

Anyway, they still have some tread left, so keep them? or bin em and move on?
(click for higher res versions) (http://picasaweb.google.com/c.p.whitehead/18Dec09TireProblems#)
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LuSSRMTIP_UWINh3GONW0g?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Gr4w3OEMfJs/SyqpPe5U3LI/AAAAAAAAF8c/5C3Am8ydshU/s800/IMG_1422.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/c.p.whitehead/18Dec09TireProblems?feat=embedwebsite">18 Dec 09 - Tire problems?</a></td></tr></table>

[NordieBoy]

Just wanted a 2nd opinion on these tires, done about 11,000km and they started to feel unstable at tarmac speeds, not sure if it is just tire pressure.

Anyway, they still have some tread left, so keep them? or bin em and move on?

I'd keep them. You can still see tread in the middle.

[dino3310]

what are they? they look a lot like the IRC ive got on the front of mine, if so then mine are about worn the same but im not noticing any loss in traction except for the metal, so i'll be up grading to more aggressive offroad soon.
the photo looks like theyl need replacing soon, if you replace them now with that amount of tread on i'll be keen for them:2thumbsup

[Waihou Thumper]

to do a fair bit of riding south, put new ones on and save these for the return or flick them off to Dino...
Go south with new tyres, piece of mind. By the time you get to the Dusty, they'll have scrubbed in nicely and you can abuse them on the metal roads down there.
As they are, you aint gonna get much grip down south...Change 'em :)

[.chris]

what are they? they look a lot like the IRC ive got on the front of mine, if so then mine are about worn the same but im not noticing any loss in traction except for the metal, so i'll be up grading to more aggressive offroad soon.
the photo looks like theyl need replacing soon, if you replace them now with that amount of tread on i'll be keen for them:2thumbsup

It is a Metz Sahara 3, I have the rear which still has a bit of tread left on it, I was thinking of keeping them till I do a road based trip and run them to the ground, but switching tires around just seems too hard.

I think I might just replace it, heading away on the bike for about 2 months and I do not really want to have to bother with tire troubles.

NZKTM, you are right, I had planned to change my front when I made it to Fairlie (Dad's workshop/brother doing the change would be easy) but since cycletreads charge shit all for a tire change, might as well get it done.

And just found they have a nice Karoo 90/90 21 in stock, so I am going with that one.
http://thumbnail.image.rakuten.co.jp/@0_mall/mch/cabinet/tire/mcka-110-80-19.jpg
It is about $40 cheaper than a TKC80 front, so I figure its worth a shot.

[warewolf]

to do a fair bit of riding south, put new ones on and save these for the return or flick them off to Dino...
Go south with new tyres, piece of mind.Wot 'e said. I don't change front tyres at the tread depth limits, but sooner when they get out of shape and start handling poorly. If you are questioning the handling, then definitely biff it regardless of remaining tread depth. You've done well out of them, nearly double the kays I got on the 640A.

Why have a nice bike like the 690 then handicap it with lousy worn-out tyres??


switching tires around just seems too hard.
...
And just found they have a nice Karoo 90/90 21 in stock, so I am going with that one.Learn to change tyres if you want to maximise wear, so you can have a selection and fit the one most appropriate for the riding at hand.

Let us know how that front Karoo goes. The rears are renowned for good grip but the tread just evaporates.

[bart]

Just threw one of these on the back for a laugh. $120 of Vee Rubber awesomeness for the summer. Not bad around town. Can't wait to see how it goes on gravel. Doughnut city.:banana::2thumbsup

[Kokopelli]

Just so I can post here as well :-). What the consensus on D606 tyres? Would they survive the ride from AKL to Wellington in reasonable shape? Otherwise I'll got with T63 again, maybe with an MT21 front. I really like that combination.

[Box'a'bits]

Just so I can post here as well :-). What the consensus on D606 tyres? Would they survive the ride from AKL to Wellington in reasonable shape? Otherwise I'll got with T63 again, maybe with an MT21 front. I really like that combination.

Calling MarkS to the courtesy phone, MarkS to the courtesy phone
(he runs D606's on the KLR all the time).

I like the MT21 front T63 rear combo too. Wear is better from the T63 than the MT21 rear & much better grip in gravel.

[cooneyr]

Just so I can post here as well :-). What the consensus on D606 tyres? Would they survive the ride from AKL to Wellington in reasonable shape? Otherwise I'll got with T63 again, maybe with an MT21 front. I really like that combination.

I am a big fan of D606's but they dont come in the right size for current bike. Only thing is you need to keep the pressures at around 30psi to get more than about 2500/3000kms out of them. At 24psi I almost killed a set doing the Dust Butt (1000kms) but at 30 psi I got 5000kms no worries. Never tried the T63 rear but I rate the D606 front over the MT21 front and still use it as my preferred front tyre. The D606s are softer and grip better both on and off seal and have a better life at the right pressures compared with the MT21's which I find very "plasticy".

Cheers R

[marks]

I've chewed through 2 x d606 fronts and 2 x d606 rears on the klr this year.

Absolutely love them. Under very hard braking the front gets a bit squiggly but otherwise they are great on the road (they do howl though - removing your baffle fixes this). What Ryan says about tire pressures is spot on. I get 5000k out of a front and 3500 out of a rear.

I've also been using up various half worn rear tires this year and the off road grip of the rear D606 is better than an E09 and vastly better than my current trail wing - particularly under braking on loose surfaces.

[rogerh]

Been through 2 of these on the back of a 640E. Cannot agree about the pressures thing enough. One of them only lasted about 800km, due to having to ride it back from Kawhia to Hamilton at trail pressure (about 16 - 17 psi) one day. This trip alone used about 2/3 of the tyre :(. Via a scenic route though, and not being shy with the gas.

The other one got about 1700k by keeping the pressure right (30ish) when on road, with about a third off road. On road, they actually last reasonably well at low speed, but higher speed and any abuse chews them up pretty quick, and possibly the best equal tyre I have had off road. (liked the Michelin S12 too). Good predictable tyre under all conditions, even when it gets to the end of its life, but as with any knobbly care required in the wet (especially on those white lines!) on road. Can break loose, but at least predictably.

[cold comfort]

Don't like the 244 front. Didn't really do anything wrong but didn't inspire confidence.

I do like the 244 rear though. Slides predictably and good everywhere.

The Mitas E-07 rear is better virtually everywhere though :D

Just put an E-07 on the rear today in the hope of doing the Dusty Butt (or at least the civilised, pipe and slippers, 2 day version)

[Padmei]

Just put an E-07 on the rear today in the hope of doing the Dusty Butt (or at least the civilised, pipe and slippers, 2 day version)

Lt us know what you think. I've found the 07 the best rear so far on the KLR but will try others when it runs out

[cynna]

im putting a michalin t63 on for the dusty butt to see how that lasts. got around 4000k out of my mitas c02.

[drbandit]

im putting a michalin t63 on for the dusty butt to see how that lasts. got around 4000k out of my mitas c02.
T63 Did 6000km on rear of Dr650.. Thought it was 3/4 worn after south island trip at 3000km but it just kept going and going... keep pressure up for road ( 32psi) though as you can overheat easily and destroy tyre.

[dino3310]

seems like a good tyre, very simular to the E-09, i'l see if i can grind her out before the 6k mark:whistle: the way she going at the moment i think i'l be lucky to see 3k, But shes holding bloody well when pushed on seal and metal, still holding shape too.:2thumbsup

[warewolf]

'Search this thread' for T63, some prior discussions such as my post 804 (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showpost.php?p=1129294937&postcount=804)
and Woodman's 890 (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showpost.php?p=1129405910&postcount=890).

[XP@]

I've had a Conti trail attack on the rear for 11,000kms now and am impressed.
It has hardly worn, it sticks to the road really well, even in the wet.

But I have not tried more than a bit of gravel on it (and probably won't). I will be switching to one on the front when that wears out.

As a road tire for an adventure bike travelling long distance (well further than you ride) it has a big thumbs up from me. :2thumbsup

[junkmanjoe]

well the mitas E-10 is on its way...
there selling in Europe, and due here next month..

im big bike sizes as well...
front
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/picture.php?albumid=2225&pictureid=37516

back
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/picture.php?albumid=2225&pictureid=37515

ill be trowing a set on the 950, and see what happens..:2thumbsup

JMJ

[dino3310]

whats the difference with the 09 bro

[junkmanjoe]

ummm one number.........

E10 meant to be a longer lasting, tighter knobs...
may be different pattern when they arrive..

JMJ

[OV Lander]

whats the difference with the 09 bro

Looks like more rubber on the shoulders - should give even more confidence on the tar seal going home!

[junkmanjoe]

yea more blocks on the sides aye.. might be able to scrape the pegs again...been a while since ive done that on the cbr600...

im going to give them a go, been told around $300 for a set, about same price as the E-09..

JMJ

[Eddieb]

well the mitas E-10 is on its way...
there selling in Europe, and due here next month..

im big bike sizes as well...
ill be trowing a set on the 950, and see what happens..:2thumbsup

JMJ

Me too I think. I'm absolutely hating the E-07 on the rear of the 950. Dunno if it's the tyre or suspension setup but on an easy gravel road at ~60km/h the rear is all over the place. NZKTM was behind me and commented he could see it stepping out for no obvious reason. It was so bad it was honestly scaring me. It seems fine on the road and on dry rough stuff, though was understandably I think a bit lacking on wet rocks and light mud.

And no it wasn't due to excessive right hand usage, I was babying it. Standing up was better, but still not great.

[Eddieb]

Just threw one of these on the back for a laugh. $120 of Vee Rubber awesomeness for the summer. Not bad around town. Can't wait to see how it goes on gravel. Doughnut city.:banana::2thumbsup

I've used these on the R80 and the same front tyre was changed over to the PD. The rear was ok but didn't last that long, about 3000km from memory. The front has done somewhere around 15k and still has quite a bit left.

The E-09 rear is a much better rear tyre with better grip and for me about 2 1/2 times the life, which also made it a bit more economical overall.