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Padmei
24th July 2010, 21:36
My wish list is browing velly big & that's just the basics.
Full stainless steel nuts & bolts set mmmm luverly....

Pampera
24th July 2010, 21:47
Looking thru Motobins at the mo. Not bad pricing. Postage will prob be the killer tho.

I have found Motobins pretty good for non routine parts. Just make certain you pick the "BMW genuine"option when there is a choice. Having said that, based on convenience, I have never bought a service part like a filter from anywhere but a local dealer, but in my case I do have one, a dealer that is.

Folding filters can be used instead of a one piece one, but only if the folding one is the folding version of the straight one for your bike, if you know what I mean! Sounds not the case this time. They fold to go around the awkward corner left by the fairing on RS or RT but are good to use on a naked bike using the same filter arrangement. Not in your case though.

The place to go for carb parts (and a really good carb book) is bing.com. Carb kits have numbers, starting at basic and going up to everything bar the body and top. All the parts for your rebuild come in a line along a plastic sealed strip and even I can do a carb a night, after dinner.
http://www.bingcarburetor.com/


Michael

Padmei
24th July 2010, 22:26
Thanks Michael.
I have so far 8 items including service stuff, throttle cables,diff boots etc & a centre stand & its just tipped $200NZ without shipping. My non genuine BMW filter alone was $40 from a dealer.
Do you think there would be a major difference with gen & non Gen BMW parts? They seem to have a pretty respectable looking site - no chinese looking bits advertised but I knowwhat you mean.

Since I'm putting in an order is there anything anyone recommends buying for peace of mind knowledge it's sitting in the shed? Small bits that is...

Box'a'bits
24th July 2010, 22:39
Thanks Michael.
I have so far 8 items including service stuff, throttle cables,diff boots etc & a centre stand & its just tipped $200NZ without shipping. My non genuine BMW filter alone was $40 from a dealer.
Do you think there would be a major difference with gen & non Gen BMW parts? They seem to have a pretty respectable looking site - no chinese looking bits advertised but I knowwhat you mean.

Since I'm putting in an order is there anything anyone recommends buying for peace of mind knowledge it's sitting in the shed? Small bits that is...
I order all of my stuff via Motobins or Motorworks in the UK. They have both been excellent to deal with. Non genuine is not an issue

Eddieb
24th July 2010, 22:50
R100GS stainless 2 into 1 mid pipe
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Exhaust/auction-305917659.htm

http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/tq/39/136026439.jpg

BMWST?
25th July 2010, 00:53
Thanks Michael.
I have so far 8 items including service stuff, throttle cables,diff boots etc & a centre stand & its just tipped $200NZ without shipping. My non genuine BMW filter alone was $40 from a dealer.
Do you think there would be a major difference with gen & non Gen BMW parts? They seem to have a pretty respectable looking site - no chinese looking bits advertised but I knowwhat you mean.

Since I'm putting in an order is there anything anyone recommends buying for peace of mind knowledge it's sitting in the shed? Small bits that is...

about $100 for a clutch cable from dealer

Eddieb
25th July 2010, 09:15
Hi Padmei

Before you place your order pull your carbs apart and check the needle, needle jet and diaphragms for wear.

It may be worth just ordering 2 sets of each anyway. The needles and needle jets are known to wear over ~80,000km and the diaphragms tear over time so it may just be worthwhile replacing all of those or at least ordering spares.

While all this can be done with the carbs in situ it's best to remove them off the bike before you try to take the top off the get at the diaphragms. If you try and remove the cables with the carbs still mounted you end up crimping the cables and it makes it more difficult to balance the carbs accurately, pull the carbs then remove the cables.

You can pull the main jets and needle jets easily with the carbs in place however just by popping the clip off the bottom of the carb and the float bowl just falls off.

Unscrewing the main jet, which I think should be a 150 on those, should allow the main jet holder and needle jet to drop out. Seeing as the bike has been sitting I would expect the little holes around the needle jet to be completely clogged up meaning the fuel won't atomise properly as it enters the carb.

While you are there just confirm what size the main jet is, when I got the 800 it wouldn't go over 100km/h in any gear with any amount of throttle abuse, but was smooth up to that. It turns out it had a US spec main jet fitted into a UK spec motor and due to extra emissions stuff in the US bikes they use hugely different jet sizes. Putting the right size main jet in turned it into a completely different bike.

Padmei
25th July 2010, 09:37
Thanks Eddie.
I think I may pull the carbs out & have a look before putting my order in.

On the motobins site it is a bit confusing sometimes knowing if I'm ordering for the right model as most often it mentions 100GS. As I think, apart from carb jets & internal engine parts, the 80 & 100 are mostly the same I'm taking the parts indicated as 100GS or 'twins after 88' etc that they'll fit the 80.
If their part no had the BMW part no beside them I could cross reference them.

Eddieb
25th July 2010, 09:46
Thanks Eddie.
I think I may pull the carbs out & have a look before putting my order in.

On the motobins site it is a bit confusing sometimes knowing if I'm ordering for the right model as most often it mentions 100GS. As I think, apart from carb jets & internal engine parts, the 80 & 100 are mostly the same I'm taking the parts indicated as 100GS or 'twins after 88' etc that they'll fit the 80.
If their part no had the BMW part no beside them I could cross reference them.

Chassis bits as long as theyear is the same you should be right, do be careful when talking about carb bits. 800's use 36mm carbs, 100's use 40mm carbs so the diaphragms are different sizes for example, except in the US where they all used 36mm carbs. Bear that in mind depending on whether it's a UK or US based site you are ordering from.

Pampera
25th July 2010, 10:55
Thanks Michael.
I have so far 8 items including service stuff, throttle cables,diff boots etc & a centre stand & its just tipped $200NZ without shipping. My non genuine BMW filter alone was $40 from a dealer.
Do you think there would be a major difference with gen & non Gen BMW parts? They seem to have a pretty respectable looking site - no chinese looking bits advertised but I knowwhat you mean.

Since I'm putting in an order is there anything anyone recommends buying for peace of mind knowledge it's sitting in the shed? Small bits that is...

While many aftermarket suppliers may be OK, my personal approach with oil filters is one of caution, you just don't know - and in view of the consequences of a failure versus the small purchase costs saving and small amount of money involved anyway - why not go with OEM. I checked the receipt from last Christmas's oil changes and the OEM filter was $38.50 and only one is needed each year. All it takes is for one to collapse and block....

I still swear by the Bing rebuild kits. Everything in one place, all genuine, right for your bike, cost effective and (depending on the kit selected) everything back to new and good for another 50,000 km. Only takes a couple of hours to fully strip, clean and refurbish a carb and the personal satisfaction is priceless! And their Bing carb book is brilliant. All mail order from US. And they make a special stainless steel fastener kit for the carb tops if you are looking for bling. The hardest bits to replace are the butterfly O rings, I just didn't do these the first few times until I got confident (cocky).

Parts to carry?
A spare carb diaphragm is one. That should guarantee never needing one. Perhaps a spare throttle/choke return spring, keep the old ones after you buy the Bing kit!
Miichael

Box'a'bits
25th July 2010, 11:26
Someone is advertising oil filters on Tardme. Genuine is Mahle or Knecht filters, & then rebranded BMW.:niceone: I think the OX36 is all filters with oil coolers. Here is a link (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Other/auction-304847337.htm) for the trader. The trader is into BMWs & I would rate. NZD 26 plus postage

Cheers, Steve

Padmei
25th July 2010, 18:07
Got into stripping down Schmidt this weekend & really enjoyed it.

First of all I am so impressed with how easy it is to get into the guts of this thing. I only had to undo 1 screw to have all the tank,seat & side covers off.
It was interesting seeing what lived where & how it worked.

I found I have a uni filter however it looks like it's seen better days so think I may go back to a paper OEM filter.
Took the LHS carb off & took it apart - pretty straightforward how ever am unsure about taking the floats off as that pin looks pretty bendable - what did you guys use to get it out?
The carbs & air intake were pretty dirty inside as were all the relays & electrics under the tank.

The bike looks like it has been ridden a lot on the beach & not cleaned a lot.

The most daunting thing for me is the electrics. All the components need a good spray & scrub so I guess I'll be redoing all the connections at the same time.

I've been using the BMW R80GS -R100R Repair manual & have to say it is terribly bad. There are references to pics not there & no explanation how things work. I will be internetting for that.

Pampera
25th July 2010, 18:17
[QUOTE=Padmei;1129819728]am unsure about taking the floats off as that pin looks pretty bendable - what did you guys use to get it out?
QUOTE]

A small nail modified into a drift by grinding the point to a flat - but tapered still, so it centred - and a VERY small hammer! Been a while so hazy what it looks like in there but I recall supporting the back of the post that holds the pin before any tapping.

Michael

That looks like fun
26th July 2010, 17:35
Just brought some parts in from Aus and got stung $100.13 in taxes and shit :gob:
GST $62.82
Import Transaction Fee $22
GST on Transaction Fee $$2.75
Biosecurity levy $11.11
GST on Levy $1.39

I have brought quite a lot of stuff in from Aus before and have never been hit with all this shit before. Lady on phone never explained why I was this time :angry: She did however tell me I was lucky I brought my parts before the GST Rise :sick:

That looks like fun
26th July 2010, 17:40
http://forum.bmwor.org.nz/index.php/topic,1222.0.html

Koko gives a damn good report of his bing carb overhaul :yes:

Box'a'bits
26th July 2010, 17:46
Just brought some parts in from Aus and got stung $100.13 in taxes and shit :gob:
I have brought quite a lot of stuff in from Aus before and have never been hit with all this shit before. Lady on phone never explained why I was this time :angry: She did however tell me I was lucky I brought my parts before the GST Rise :sick:

Bought too much, so the Gvt decided you have too much cash & decided to relieve you of some of it. :innocent:

Phreaky Phil
26th July 2010, 18:53
Bought too much, so the Gvt decided you have too much cash & decided to relieve you of some of it. :innocent:Im not sure if it has changed, but in the past if the GrabSnatchTake portion would be under $50 then they didnt bother. That works out if you keep your spend under $400. Sometimes better to have 2 smaller packages sent

That looks like fun
26th July 2010, 20:27
$403:innocent: (but that was Aus dollars) Unfortunatly it was only one part so couldnt bring it in in two bits :blink: Have brought in over $400 worth before and its a lottery if you get caught :shifty:. However in the past when caught I have only had to pay the GST not all the other shit :shutup: Still half the price of buying local :yes:

warewolf
26th July 2010, 21:01
Got into stripping down Schmidt this weekend & really enjoyed it.

First of all I am so impressed with how easy it is to get into the guts of this thing. I only had to undo 1 screw to have all the tank,seat & side covers off.
It was interesting seeing what lived where & how it worked.Welcome to the world of Euro...

Eddieb
27th July 2010, 13:07
Does anyone has a spare alternator belt and possibly HALL sensor to suit an 1100GS lying around that can be loaned out.

A mate of mine in Hamilton who is/was supposed to be doing the MMMMM this weekend has just had his belt snap and it seems BMW NZ don't have any in stock.

That looks like fun
27th July 2010, 16:03
Does anyone has a spare alternator belt and possibly HALL sensor to suit an 1100GS lying around that can be loaned out.

A mate of mine in Hamilton who is/was supposed to be doing the MMMMM this weekend has just had his belt snap and it seems BMW NZ don't have any in stock.



http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47597
Gives some options for belts :yes:

Taz
27th July 2010, 19:01
I have a used belt hanging in the garage. Should be ok. I'll be heading down thru Hamilton friday morning. Let me know if it's wanted.
Andy.

Aslan
27th July 2010, 19:48
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47597
Gives some options for belts :yes:

Colin - you da man - thanks for this useful post / link - cheers S

BMWST?
27th July 2010, 21:03
i have a belt that is not doing anything at the moment,because of a hall sensor.

That looks like fun
28th July 2010, 03:51
Ah yes :yes: the cursed Hall sensor :shutup: You can buy the parts from JayCar very cheap :shifty: There is an art to replacing them. BogGSer is the man to talk to about these. :yes:

That looks like fun
28th July 2010, 17:56
Cant find the post at the moment but there is an easy way to time the beasts after replacing the Hall Sensors.
Fuel pump fires of same signal so turn engine (with key on) until fuel pump fires, check timing mark and adjust as required. :yes:
(Its a bit more detailed than that but its as simple as that) :2guns:

Eddieb
28th July 2010, 18:05
Does anyone has a spare alternator belt and possibly HALL sensor to suit an 1100GS lying around that can be loaned out.

A mate of mine in Hamilton who is/was supposed to be doing the MMMMM this weekend has just had his belt snap and it seems BMW NZ don't have any in stock.

Well he's found a belt. It's in Chch and is due in Hamilton tomorrow I believe. The hall sensor requires some gentle massaging and persuasion as it was given a good thump by the belt after it broke apparently.

BMWST?
28th July 2010, 20:38
Ah yes :yes: the cursed Hall sensor :shutup: You can buy the parts from JayCar very cheap :shifty: There is an art to replacing them. BogGSer is the man to talk to about these. :yes:

i found a website with very good instructions.Hopefully i will have least do a test to confirm,get the beancan out and at least get the new sensor from jaycar.I have a strobe light and have also been advised to mark the position of the beancan before removal.

That looks like fun
29th July 2010, 03:50
Ahh yes :mellow: Strobe light for timing of the Airhead. My method of timing is difficult with them as the fuel pump is very very very quiet :innocent:

GSers
29th July 2010, 14:48
Ah yes :yes: the cursed Hall sensor :shutup: You can buy the parts from JayCar very cheap :shifty: There is an art to replacing them. BogGSer is the man to talk to about these. :yes:
Guys lets not get to upset about the hall sensor failures. There where approx 43000 1100GS made not to mention all the other 1100 models the airheads used the hall sensors and the 1150 and Im sure the Ks also used them it does not have a high failure rate And for you Holden and Ford fans they are used in there distributors aswell I would say on the whole they are very reliable. The good thing about it is that they are repairable at a very low cost compared with buying Genuine BMW parts its just abit of an incovenience no worse than having a biff and not being able to ride home. regards GSers

NordieBoy
29th July 2010, 16:14
Depends how rough this Biff person is.

Padmei
31st July 2010, 09:19
Very streamlined & lite
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Other/auction-307190630.htm

igor
31st July 2010, 09:22
Very streamlined & lite
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Other/auction-307190630.htm

crimes against motorcycling:shutup:

BMWST?
31st July 2010, 22:19
Guys lets not get to upset about the hall sensor failures. There where approx 43000 1100GS made not to mention all the other 1100 models the airheads used the hall sensors and the 1150 and Im sure the Ks also used them it does not have a high failure rate And for you Holden and Ford fans they are used in there distributors aswell I would say on the whole they are very reliable. The good thing about it is that they are repairable at a very low cost compared with buying Genuine BMW parts its just abit of an incovenience no worse than having a biff and not being able to ride home. regards GSers

agreed it just annoys me a bit as i had been off the bike for nearly three months cos i ruptured my achilles tendon,and first ride,backfire n stop.Gave the achilles a good test pushing it (uphill) home.have beancan out,tests confirm hall sensor,beancan resisting attempts to open..:crybaby:

Padmei
31st July 2010, 22:28
DOing the valve check on the R80. Jez for an easy procedure it's a PiTA. I need 3 hands to keep the adjusting bolt steady while gently tightening the lock nut. It seems to me a pretty hamfisted way to adjust 0.somethingmillimetres. The bloody locknut seems to call the shots & not the adjusting nut
Snowbum says I'llget the hang of it quickly - I'm glad BM valves loosen up overtime!!

Woodman
31st July 2010, 23:10
DOing the valve check on the R80. Jez for an easy procedure it's a PiTA. I need 3 hands to keep the adjusting bolt steady while gently tightening the lock nut. It seems to me a pretty hamfisted way to adjust 0.somethingmillimetres. The bloody locknut seems to call the shots & not the adjusting nut
Snowbum says I'llget the hang of it quickly - I'm glad BM valves loosen up overtime!!

Gently tighten the locknut until the adjuster is a little firm e.g. takes some effort to move, then adjust the clearance then gently tighten the locknut. Should not affect the adj nut.

Note: I have never adjusted bmw tappets so ignore this if a bmw system is different.

igormortis
31st July 2010, 23:37
...beancan resisting attempts to open..:crybaby:

Wanna borrow my spare?

BMWST?
1st August 2010, 00:01
Wanna borrow my spare?

if you can "spare it".

Padmei
1st August 2010, 08:37
Gently tighten the locknut until the adjuster is a little firm e.g. takes some effort to move, then adjust the clearance then gently tighten the locknut. Should not affect the adj nut.

Note: I have never adjusted bmw tappets so ignore this if a bmw system is different.

Cheers I have been doing this but will have to be a bit more exact.

igormortis
1st August 2010, 17:49
if you can "spare it".

Sure thing. Didn't check the thread till now, sorry. I can drop it in your shed on my way to work in the morning if you like.

Padmei
4th August 2010, 14:43
In case anyone is interested what it costs bringing stuff in, i got a box of goodies coming but got a letter today for GSt & levies.

Value of Goods $466.00
GST $58.25
Import transaction fee $22.00
Bio security levy $11.11
GST on biosecuriey levy $1.39:blink:

total $95.90

Still cheaper so I'm happy & will be even happier when I can fire up the bomber:yes:

i learnt about that phrase 'mission creep' tho - there's a few more things i want to do on it now. They are addictive.

Kokopelli
4th August 2010, 18:59
They must have tightened the noose a bit. I've never had to pay on overseas purchases before. It used to be the magic $400 limit Not sure if it still applies. Maybe you were just unlucky.

Padmei
4th August 2010, 19:53
I first received a letter from NZ post saying the parcel will be held up until the custom duties are paid so I have a suspicion that they just scan the boxes & any that come up as a new looking part gets it. It's pretty easy money for them really. I will be interested to see if the customs declaration or goods value is on the outside of the parcel.

If it is I wonder if one could get around it by it getting sent to a relative in the UK then on-posting it however I guess that would pick up VAT internally over there so might not make a difference.

If all the posted parcels sent have to pay GST on entry then that's ok - it's a level playing field but if some do & some don't that would become annoying not knowing if you'll get pinged & the savings may not be as good.

Padmei
4th August 2010, 19:59
Sorry not that interesting or about boxers however just looked up the customs & GST charges & came across this. What interested me was the bit about things bought on Ebay may attract charges & doesn't matter about if Tax had been paid in country of origin.

Calculation of Customs charges
Where applicable, Customs duty is levied on the transaction value of the goods (the price actually paid for them). Goods and Services Tax (GST) of 12.5 percent is then calculated on the duty-inclusive value plus international freight and insurance charges. If there is no transaction (such as the goods being supplied free of charge, or a relationship between the supplier and importer which affects the transaction price), an alternative form of valuation may be used.

No revenue collection will be made if the total amount owing on the goods imported is less than $50. This revenue waiver does not apply to alcohol or tobacco products.

For further information about valuation of goods or calculation of charges, please contact any Customs office.
back to top

Payment of Customs charges
Payments will only be accepted in New Zealand currency. Cash payment (which includes cash and cheques) is required for imports via air or sea. Personal cheques may only be accepted up to NZ$1,000.

MasterCard and VISA are accepted for imports made by private persons on goods for their own personal use via mail. Call 0800 388 437 to make a payment.
back to top

Customs charges — imported goods
Imported goods, such as those purchased on eBay and other international websites, may be subject to the payment of duty and/or GST.

Regardless of whether the imported goods incurred taxes in the country of purchase or not, it does not exempt the importer from the payment of New Zealand duty and/or GST.

In addition, an import transaction fee of $24.75 (GST inclusive) may apply. This fee is payable at the time that your goods are cleared. A biosecurity risk screening levy of $12.50 is also collected by Customs on behalf of MAF Biosecurity New Zealand.

BMWST?
4th August 2010, 21:29
I first received a letter from NZ post saying the parcel will be held up until the custom duties are paid so I have a suspicion that they just scan the boxes & any that come up as a new looking part gets it. It's pretty easy money for them really. I will be interested to see if the customs declaration or goods value is on the outside of the parcel.

If it is I wonder if one could get around it by it getting sent to a relative in the UK then on-posting it however I guess that would pick up VAT internally over there so might not make a difference.

If all the posted parcels sent have to pay GST on entry then that's ok - it's a level playing field but if some do & some don't that would become annoying not knowing if you'll get pinged & the savings may not be as good.
I think they are tightening up on it ,Iam sure that i have (had ) heard that they were going to be more consistent withthe rules.Fair enough too.

marks
5th August 2010, 09:00
Fair enough too.

yes I agree

we all need to give more of our money to the Government

BMWST?
5th August 2010, 11:00
yes I agree

we all need to give more of our money to the Government

I didnt mean that,but if distributors etc import bike parts I bet they pay their share of gst tax duty etc,so if a sale is lost to an individual why should that individual NOT pay whats due?

marks
5th August 2010, 13:49
I didnt mean that,but if distributors etc import bike parts I bet they pay their share of gst tax duty etc,so if a sale is lost to an individual why should that individual NOT pay whats due?

we purchase overseas because we want to pay less than the local retailers charge. This will still be generally true even if we have to pay gst etc. It just means the govt gets to rape us a bit more consistently

I'd rather have a 50/50 chance of avoiding import tax than a 100% chance of paying it - it wont change my buying habits

the local retailers still aren't getting my business unless they can come up with a good reason why they should - ie expertise/service/price

so all that changes is I get less and the govt gets more - my - thats a shocking revelation :shit:

rant over - normal service may now resume

Padmei
7th August 2010, 09:13
Fk Me!!:shit:

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l123/notarex/oops.jpg


Cecil Jones

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lived in South Texas, rode an airhead for a while, promoted a couple of different race tracks, Ran the "Cinco de Mayo" Enduro. He once blew a piston on his airhead, took off the cylinder, piston and rod, fabricated a blocking plate from wood and ran it as a single until he could afford to fix it. There were witness' and it's legend down there. LOL

That looks like fun
7th August 2010, 15:19
Accepted that service agents get charged GST and all other costs that we have to pay (when caught:shifty:). Still find it hard to support them when I can bring in a genuine BM part at a third the cost they will sell me the same thing. Add to this the knowledge that they get a dealers discount when they make their purchase :shit:
I am all for supporting local industry but as my spending limit is fixed to my earning level I need to support myself and my family first. Food on my table, not theirs :yes:

Eddieb
9th August 2010, 16:06
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-309381860.htm

A VERY nice PD for sale on TM, buy now, $7k.

http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/99/140009599_full.jpg

Crisis management
9th August 2010, 16:45
A VERY nice PD for sale on TM, buy now, $7k.



I wish they would stop turning up, I have a soft spot for PD's but somehow suspect my riding style wouldn't suit it!

Good looking example tho, reminds me of one I looked at in Auckland about 3 years ago, almost concours.

Padmei
9th August 2010, 17:41
Thats a nice bike. What sort of front bash plate is that?

topo
9th August 2010, 17:47
Factory, i had the same alloy bash plate and fibreglass "fairing around it on my 92 PD. Might have to reaquire the purple beast in the near future:shifty:

igormortis
9th August 2010, 21:00
Ooh, that is very nice.

Squiggles
10th August 2010, 15:40
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-309381860.htm

A VERY nice PD for sale on TM, buy now, $7k.


Do want. Why cant i just win lotto (without a ticket) already :cry:

Padmei
10th August 2010, 20:12
I am in need of help. Does anybody have some spare parts for a 32mm Bing Carb.
After getting my box of goodies from overseas I opened up the RHS carb & found the seal from the top of the carb was crap & the inside above the diaphram was very dirty. The screw holding the needle was seized & after days of soaking & trying it I took to the mechanics who heated it too much so now it had a bulge in the middle of the upwards shaft & doesn't slide upwards inside the top of the carb.

Anyway I need one of these & the screw to hold the needle in. If anyone has one lying around I would like to purchase one. hey are a bit pricey new but will get one if no joy here.

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/001.jpg

BTW who is the BM dealer of choice in wellington again?

Ian.S
10th August 2010, 20:32
Don't know if anyone in here can help

http://rter.co.nz/Airheads/airhead_parts.html

Also Munich Motorcycles in Perth, the Wellington BM dealer is now in Lower Hutt.

All the best.

Eddieb
10th August 2010, 20:58
There's a guy in Palmerston North that may be able to help, but I don't have his details at home.

BMWST?
10th August 2010, 21:15
I am in need of help. Does anybody have some spare parts for a 32mm Bing Carb.
After getting my box of goodies from overseas I opened up the RHS carb & found the seal from the top of the carb was crap & the inside above the diaphram was very dirty. The screw holding the needle was seized & after days of soaking & trying it I took to the mechanics who heated it too much so now it had a bulge in the middle of the upwards shaft & doesn't slide upwards inside the top of the carb.

Anyway I need one of these & the screw to hold the needle in. If anyone has one lying around I would like to purchase one. hey are a bit pricey new but will get one if no joy here.

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/001.jpg

BTW who is the BM dealer of choice in wellington again?

bm dealer is motomart but there is a gentleman at motorad who knows more about airheads(and other beamers prolly) than most

dino3310
10th August 2010, 21:48
:gob::drool: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-309381860.htm

barrie
11th August 2010, 08:22
I have a pair of 32mm carbs.
Apparently they are older ones, but you are welcome to the parts if they fit. Give me a bell on 021300664.

Cheers,

Barrie
I am in need of help. Does anybody have some spare parts for a 32mm Bing Carb.
After getting my box of goodies from overseas I opened up the RHS carb & found the seal from the top of the carb was crap & the inside above the diaphram was very dirty. The screw holding the needle was seized & after days of soaking & trying it I took to the mechanics who heated it too much so now it had a bulge in the middle of the upwards shaft & doesn't slide upwards inside the top of the carb.

Anyway I need one of these & the screw to hold the needle in. If anyone has one lying around I would like to purchase one. hey are a bit pricey new but will get one if no joy here.

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/001.jpg

BTW who is the BM dealer of choice in wellington again?

Padmei
11th August 2010, 17:33
Will do thanks Barrie
Thanks also to other replies. I wonder if I'll enjoy riding it as much as I do working on it- cos I love working on it!!

Taz
11th August 2010, 17:37
Will do thanks Barrie
Thanks also to other replies. I wonder if I'll enjoy riding it as much as I do working on it- cos I love working on it!!

You will up until the working on it outweighs the riding it on a regular basis :)

Eddieb
11th August 2010, 18:11
Hi Padmei

Try Kane at http://www.rtwinworks.co.nz/index.html

Phone Kane 027 266 5335 (A/H 06 354 6896)

Email: Kane@rtwinworks.co.nz


I've used Kane to supply airhead parts and he was very good to deal with. I'd recommend him.

igormortis
11th August 2010, 18:17
I've used Kane to supply airhead parts and he was very good to deal with. I'd recommend him.

I'll second that.

Eddieb
11th August 2010, 18:23
Anyone want to buy a GS PD?

The good bits:
Registered till 25th October 2010
~$4000 of Ohlins and Touratech gear
Ohlins shock with external preload
Touratech Rallye mount for headlight and dash
Touratech Rallye Headlight and fly screen
Touratech IMO-100R Digital Rallye Computer
Touratech Standard Control Lamp Kit (Idiot lights)
Touratech Oil Cooler Relocation Kit
Touratech Sump Guard
Touratech rear brake lever relocation kit
Touratech indicators with flexible stalks all round.
RF900 brake caliper upgrade, plus original caliper. Pads are pretty new.
Braided front brake line
Pivot pegz, plus originals
30mm stainless handlebar risers
Emgo bark busters
BMW panniers
Spare front disc
Various other spare bits I need to catalog, rocker cover gaskets, base gaskets, front driveshaft boot etc
Half worn E-09 on the rear
Fairly new Vee Rubber knobbly on the front
Ventura L brackets, brand new never fitted, possibly the only set available in NZ.
Full set of brand new replacement stainless push rods, push rods seals, base o rings and other bits I can't remember right now.
PD front spoiler thing that goes behind the front wheel across the motor and headers
Those crap buttery screws in the top of the carbs have been replaced with stainless allen head screws.
Lighter carb springs fitted, reduces strain on long rides.

The bad bits:
Push rod seals are leaking but all new replacement bits are included, it's not leaking badly but enough to leave a damp batch on the block.
The Touratech Headlight was smashed ona trip to the South Island and I couldn't get a replacement so the flyscreen was cut and flared out a bit and a larger light installed. It's a '20 feet' fix, i.e You can't see it from 20 feet away.
It's filthy.
The BMW luggage was totally mis represented when I bought it. It's usable and basically sound but you can't lock it as there's no key and one of the rack clamp locks is missing. The clamp still attachs to the rack and it's never come off but I usually put a strap around the box just in case.
Scratch on the left hand side of the tank from dropping it in a river.
WOF has expired.
The right hand side EMGO bark buster mount at the end of the handlebar is damaged and taped up. It still appears to be sound though.

PM me if your interested in talking or want more info, the bike is in Lower Hutt and you're welcome to come check it out.

I had a chance to spend time on the PD over last weekend so it now has a replacement spark plug lead and cap and a new Touratech indicator fitted. I've also glued a new magnet onto the front rotor for the speedo sensor. It should be ready to take in for a WOF when I find some time when I'm not working (I'm updating this from work now even).

igor
11th August 2010, 18:25
whats thje attraction with this clunky old dinosaurs. Buy a F800GS, much more fun to ride

Padmei
11th August 2010, 20:33
whats thje attraction with this clunky old dinosaurs. Buy a F800GS, much more fun to ride

Who's actually riding them? I just got mine to work on (& feel the big JUGS mmm)

BMWST?
11th August 2010, 20:56
whats thje attraction with this clunky old dinosaurs. Buy a F800GS, much more fun to ride

cos they are kinda cool and they cost a fraction of a more modern bike,although they are still too much for what you get.They cool on the road,incredibly well balanced at low speed,and have the ability to traverse any kind of formed road.Is that enough?
I didnt know what to buy when i started riding again so i bought a bike that would let me do just about anything.And it does

NordieBoy
11th August 2010, 21:18
Who's actually riding them? I just got mine to work on (& feel the big JUGS mmm)

1 to work on and another bike to actually ride.

Is there any other way?

Padmei
11th August 2010, 21:20
1 to work on and another bike to actually ride.

Is there any other way?

1 to sit dustily at the back of the garage waiting for some love?

igor
11th August 2010, 21:25
yeah but they old technology and use heaps of gas. and missing 30hp

BMWST?
11th August 2010, 21:33
yeah but they old technology and use heaps of gas. and missing 30hp

true true,but i buy plenty petrol for $5000 mister

NordieBoy
11th August 2010, 21:50
1 to sit dustily at the back of the garage waiting for some love?

I have no idea what you're talking about :innocent:

igor
11th August 2010, 22:01
I rode mine first time in 3 months today. Just wanted to take for a spin around the block. Bloody thing would not start. 2/3 choke. Petrol on. Twist throttle 3 times. turn over and wont kick into life. Try a couple more times. Looked down and my 5 year old had pulled spark plus leads off. Thanks a lot. contact. Hit starter and away it goes. Rode about 6km and put back in gargae. that should do it tilll its next wof due in October.

BMWST?
11th August 2010, 22:41
I rode mine first time in 3 months today. Just wanted to take for a spin around the block. Bloody thing would not start. 2/3 choke. Petrol on. Twist throttle 3 times. turn over and wont kick into life. Try a couple more times. Looked down and my 5 year old had pulled spark plus leads off. Thanks a lot. contact. Hit starter and away it goes. Rode about 6km and put back in gargae. that should do it tilll its next wof due in October.

when i rode mine for the first time in three months (achilles tendon) it fired up straight away(after battery charge) but blew the hall sensor about 1 k from home!

igor
12th August 2010, 15:31
nah mine wont die. tried for 11 yrs to kill it but it gets me home everytime. Even down on SH99 its was misbehaving but still got me to Te Anau

Fortunately its not like a Harley or rotweiler, likes to ride home in the back of a ute

Eddieb
12th August 2010, 18:31
BMW GS Motorrad riders can now share their best GS memories with fellow enthusiasts, via a specially created “Thank you GS” photo book which has been place on the BMW Motorrad website, to enable riders to register and upload images of themselves with their GS as part of the 30 years of GS birthday celebrations.

http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/com/en/index.html?content=http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/com/en/fascination/history/bmw_qs_30/history_gs_main.html

BMWST?
14th August 2010, 10:39
recently had hall sensor go out.This morning all instrument lights bright but push the starter.....clunk,no crankin at all,lights dim,come back bright after a few secs.Rev counter climbs to about three thou when starter button is pushed but absolutely no crankin action.battery is on charge again,or have i starter/solenoid issues?

NordieBoy
14th August 2010, 11:00
Clunk and dim could be battery or maybe starter brushes?

Phreaky Phil
14th August 2010, 17:28
recently had hall sensor go out.This morning all instrument lights bright but push the starter.....clunk,no crankin at all,lights dim,come back bright after a few secs.Rev counter climbs to about three thou when starter button is pushed but absolutely no crankin action.battery is on charge again,or have i starter/solenoid issues?
Or battery/charging problem. Even a weak battery will make the headlights glow but wont have the power to turn the motor over. If she fires up once the battery is charged or with jumper leads then start looking at the battery or charging system. Does the ignition light glow when you turn on the ignition ?

BMWST?
14th August 2010, 17:55
Or battery/charging problem. Even a weak battery will make the headlights glow but wont have the power to turn the motor over. If she fires up once the battery is charged or with jumper leads then start looking at the battery or charging system. Does the ignition light glow when you turn on the ignition ?

all the tell tale lights come on,oil,charge neutral,hope you are right phil.Charge light glows at idle(when it was going before,but goes out if revs are raised.bike has been sitting maybe battery is had it.We see tomorrow

Phreaky Phil
14th August 2010, 18:53
all the tell tale lights come on,oil,charge neutral,hope you are right phil.Charge light glows at idle(when it was going before,but goes out if revs are raised.bike has been sitting maybe battery is had it.We see tomorrowThats good signs, appears to be charging. The Valeo starters are notorious for having the magnets fall off them. Mine didnt but the planatery gears wore and it used to screech when starting and not spin over as fast. Might just be the battery. Lesser of all the evils !!

BMWST?
15th August 2010, 17:42
again,charged the battery and normal service resumes,i think the battery is toast,thats one car for the car and one for the bike.

Phreaky Phil
15th August 2010, 18:12
again,charged the battery and normal service resumes,i think the battery is toast,thats one car for the car and one for the bike.Cool, if you have a multimeter you can check the charging voltage. With bike running and reving should be round 14v

BMWST?
15th August 2010, 18:20
Cool, if you have a multimeter you can check the charging voltage. With bike running and reving should be round 14v

will do just measure the voltage across the battery?

That looks like fun
15th August 2010, 18:53
Amps in series, Volts in parallel. :yes:

Phreaky Phil
15th August 2010, 20:07
will do just measure the voltage across the battery?Yes Volts (DC) across the battery. At idle it will be lower and will rise to around 14V when revving. The GS charging system doesnt make full charge till about 3500rpm

Padmei
15th August 2010, 20:32
I'm gonna try one of these out- anyone done it & what was the outcome?

http://www.garagenight.tv/diy-soda-blasting-build-your-own-rig-cheap/

Damn good site.

igormortis
15th August 2010, 22:31
I'm gonna try one of these out- anyone done it & what was the outcome?

http://www.garagenight.tv/diy-soda-blasting-build-your-own-rig-cheap/

Damn good site.

Good stuff. Was just thinking about soda blasting this weekend - I need me a big compressor!

Moki
18th August 2010, 21:05
Clunk and dim could be battery or maybe starter brushes?

sounds like a dead BMW gel battery.

Moki
18th August 2010, 21:09
Thought I'd treat the gs to an 'proper' 80k km service. WTF 900 bucks....fekking robbery:2guns:

Padmei
18th August 2010, 21:33
Thought I'd treat the gs to an 'proper' 80k km service. WTF 900 bucks....fekking robbery:2guns:

What year & what did you have done?

Moki
18th August 2010, 23:04
02 R1150GS Adv. Everything checked and adjusted EXCEPT front brake pads (Supplied my own), poly-v belt, and fuel filter. All fluids done, spline, crown and pivot bearings inspected and lubed...and told off in deutsch about tyre pressures being .2 bar on the low side. Pretty thorough, but stoopid expensive:shit:...but then again I typically do it myself.

Eddieb
19th August 2010, 07:52
02 R1150GS Adv. Everything checked and adjusted EXCEPT front brake pads (Supplied my own), poly-v belt, and fuel filter. All fluids done, spline, crown and pivot bearings inspected and lubed...and told off in deutsch about tyre pressures being .2 bar on the low side. Pretty thorough, but stoopid expensive:shit:...but then again I typically do it myself.

Sounds like you got a fair bit done. How much of that was labour and how much parts? Labour is stupid expensive now $60-70 per hour in Welly.

Taz
19th August 2010, 17:06
02 R1150GS Adv. Everything checked and adjusted EXCEPT front brake pads (Supplied my own), poly-v belt, and fuel filter. All fluids done, spline, crown and pivot bearings inspected and lubed...and told off in deutsch about tyre pressures being .2 bar on the low side. Pretty thorough, but stoopid expensive:shit:...but then again I typically do it myself.

Should accellerate alot harder now that your wallet is 900 pinga's lighter :lol:

marks
19th August 2010, 20:14
oops

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l123/notarex/oops.jpg

Moki
19th August 2010, 21:19
oops

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l123/notarex/oops.jpg

Yep, time to thrash it into submission now. No more nice guy!

dino3310
19th August 2010, 22:05
i guess now we can call it a thumper:Punk:

Eddieb
19th August 2010, 22:13
The PD is going in for a WOF tomorrow. Once it has that I will start advertising it properly.

warewolf
19th August 2010, 22:33
oops"the side fell off"

Moki
20th August 2010, 06:18
"the side fell off"

That wouldn't mean a WOF failure, would it?

warewolf
20th August 2010, 09:09
<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/GgrX7uOZqHI?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/GgrX7uOZqHI?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

Woodman
20th August 2010, 19:44
<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/GgrX7uOZqHI?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/GgrX7uOZqHI?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

Thats brilliant:yes::yes:

That looks like fun
20th August 2010, 21:32
Formerly known as Fred Dagg (Trevs brother) :yes:
I suspect the beemer photo is a stitch up:shit:, where is the conrod, piston, and big oil pool?:blink:
Other than that it looks good :yes:

Padmei
21st August 2010, 18:56
I will post some pics up later but took my front brake callipers apart today (well nearly).

The brake pistons or plungers are munted - really soft & crumbling. One won't come out. Anyway I can get the stuff form overseas however has anyone had any luck with a cheap relatively easy replacement with a different brand/ model.

I have seen al the flash billet twin disk conversions etc but bugger spending that kind of money- I find my brakes pretty OK.

Eddieb
21st August 2010, 19:01
I will post some pics up later but took my front brake callipers apart today (well nearly).

The brake pistons or plungers are munted - really soft & crumbling. One won't come out. Anyway I can get the stuff form overseas however has anyone had any luck with a cheap relatively easy replacement with a different brand/ model.

I have seen al the flash billet twin disk conversions etc but bugger spending that kind of money- I find my brakes pretty OK.

The RF900 conversion cost me about $170, about half each for the caliper and getting the bracket made, plus I needed to buy a couple of bolts. My seller included brake pads with the caliper though, many don't.

Otherwise find a 4 pot caliper off a K1100, they bolt straight up I believe and give the same benefit.

Padmei
21st August 2010, 19:34
Cheers Eddie

Just put up some pics on the other thread. Any advice is welcomed from those who know these bikes well as to what i may be missing doing or doing incorrectly - I'm in this to learn & it's a very cool project which I'm enjoying immensely.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13802620#post13802620

igormortis
21st August 2010, 23:34
Got the K bike/early oilhead caliper on mine. Bolt spacing is the same, just need to shave a little material off the mounting bosses. 1.5mm if I recall.

BMWST?
22nd August 2010, 00:11
I will post some pics up later but took my front brake callipers apart today (well nearly).

The brake pistons or plungers are munted - really soft & crumbling. One won't come out. Anyway I can get the stuff form overseas however has anyone had any luck with a cheap relatively easy replacement with a different brand/ model.

I have seen al the flash billet twin disk conversions etc but bugger spending that kind of money- I find my brakes pretty OK.

brakes are barely ok,i will be doing an upgrade as soon as i find a suitable caliper,and a bigger disk will be next

Padmei
25th August 2010, 20:51
Just put up a post on olds cool re finding some 48mm brembo brake pistons - anyone here got any good ones floating around? Off a twin pot caliper (one each side).

Eddieb
26th August 2010, 08:42
So how many of you buggers are watchers on my PD auction on Trade Me?

Taz
26th August 2010, 09:32
Not I . I'm trying to buy a bike off trademe at the moment and the seller wont even answer my emails. Some people make it too hard :(

Devil
26th August 2010, 09:39
My 12GSA is on TM at the moment. There's a bike on there I want but cant do anything about till this one sells :(

Eddieb
26th August 2010, 09:52
OK. I have a suspiciously large number of watchers on my auction so supect there's a few off here keeping an eye on it.

BMWST?
26th August 2010, 14:09
Just put up a post on olds cool re finding some 48mm brembo brake pistons - anyone here got any good ones floating around? Off a twin pot caliper (one each side).
if my new caliper works out you can have my old caliper and the rebuild kit i got for a nominal fee

Squiggles
26th August 2010, 14:37
So how many of you buggers are watchers on my PD auction on Trade Me?

:whistle: </10chars>

igormortis
26th August 2010, 22:08
:innocent:

Padmei
27th August 2010, 07:39
if my new caliper works out you can have my old caliper and the rebuild kit i got for a nominal fee

Sounds good but what caliper are you using? K4pot?

It sounds like upgrading the caliper may be a better long term option.
WHere can I get a 2nd hand caliper from? Kane has older ones but not new ones. Is there another BMW 2nd hand parts dealer in NZ or are people getting them from ebay overseas?

K slider
27th August 2010, 10:07
I have just fitted an HID head light to my GS,man this thing puts out some light, cars follow me now.slight hitch with the can bus though, a bulb blown warning come up as they draw less current.

NordieBoy
27th August 2010, 17:19
Got a pair of 4-pot RVF400 calipers here that you missed nicking the other night in what looks like very good condition...

NordieBoy
27th August 2010, 18:08
I have just fitted an HID head light to my GS,man this thing puts out some light, cars follow me now.slight hitch with the can bus though, a bulb blown warning come up as they draw less current.

Easy. Fit another one as well :D

BMWST?
27th August 2010, 19:29
Sounds good but what caliper are you using? K4pot?

It sounds like upgrading the caliper may be a better long term option.
WHere can I get a 2nd hand caliper from? Kane has older ones but not new ones. Is there another BMW 2nd hand parts dealer in NZ or are people getting them from ebay overseas?

the caliper i have now is the big std brembo,but i have got a pair of nissin calipers of trade me.They arent the usual suzuki ones but of an Honda

NordieBoy
27th August 2010, 20:09
the caliper i have now is the big std brembo,but i have got a pair of nissin calipers of trade me.They arent the usual suzuki ones but of an Honda

My RVF ones are Nissin as well...

BMWST?
27th August 2010, 20:12
My RVF ones are Nissin as well...

http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/tq/79/140896979.jpg

Padmei
27th August 2010, 20:20
OK guys I'm having a hard time getting my head around the replacing caliper thing so apologies for being thick but can I get help with the basics.

For those that have replaced their single front stock caliper -

1. how did you know what ones to get? I've been trolling thru the BMW sites & a lot have got later model K100 4 pot LHS callipers to replace the stockers with.
If you have done this- where did you get your Kseries callipers from? Trademe? a BM wrecker in NZ? Off Ebay overseas? New from an overseas supplier?

2. Some have got new blingy billet heavy duty systems worth a lot of money- nice but not on my agenda.

3. Some have replaced stockers with another brand/ from another bike. How did you work this out? Are the mounting holes the main consideration? I'm not really interested in spacers, excessive machining & offset calculations etc at this stage. Later on I may look at it along with different forks etc but for now getting it going is the main motivation.

I have found what appears to be standard 48mm pistons for brembo brakes however noone can verify they are the same as what came out of my calliper - hence my hesitation to do the easiest thing & buy them. If they're $80nz & a better caliper is not a lot more, It'd be better economically to get the better caliper if you get it.

Many thanks in advance.

igor
27th August 2010, 20:37
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75031&highlight=FA145

this one explains it all. even has a cad drawing on it of adapter bracket you need. Post 33 is very interesting

Drogen Omen
27th August 2010, 20:49
217058 217060 217059

PATAGONIA EXPLORER (http://www.compassexpeditions.com/2008-2009/tour-patagonian-explorer-17-days.html): Argentina & Chile
18 days: 13 Nov - 30 Nov FULL / 3 Dec - 20 Dec FULL

Patagonia, a world of vast blue skies, deep blue glaciers and towering snow capped peaks. A motorcycle tour through this region will be some of the greatest biking moments of your life. This motorcycle tour is a scenic overload, beginning in the Chilean Lakes district town of Pucon we ride into Argentina and onto Bariloche, via the famous seven lake ride, every inch is a scenic splendour. Further south we enter the vast and remote Patagonia stopping overnight at a, still working, Estancia before riding into more sensational scenery as we hit the Andes at El Chalten. No tour to this region should miss the incredible Moreno Glacier, we ride our bikes out to this staggeringly beautiful part of Patagonia before riding into Torres Del Paine National Park. This place will leave you awe struck and we dare to say that it is possibly the most scenic motorcycle ride in the world. This is an incredible motorcycle tour through some of the most amazing landscapes, most remote regions and most mythical areas in the world, no wonder its our top selling tour.

Padmei
27th August 2010, 20:55
Nordie I'll be riding down & checking out your spare. Put a matress on the side of the house at the end of the driveway...

Eddieb
27th August 2010, 23:45
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75031&highlight=FA145

this one explains it all. even has a cad drawing on it of adapter bracket you need. Post 33 is very interesting

Thats the one I did, Got all my info about what caliper was required etc off this thread. Download the CAD drawing and take it into an engineer and they can make the bracket straight off the drawing, it contains everything the engineer needs to know. Others had already done all the investigation so it was easy.

It's not just about the mount spacing, the caliper must line up and provide appropriate coverage of the disc as well.

I sourced my RF900 caliper off Trade me from a wrecker in Chch.

Padmei
28th August 2010, 08:50
217058 217060 217059

PATAGONIA EXPLORER (http://www.compassexpeditions.com/2008-2009/tour-patagonian-explorer-17-days.html): Argentina & Chile
18 days: 13 Nov - 30 Nov FULL / 3 Dec - 20 Dec FULL

Patagonia, a world of vast blue skies, deep blue glaciers and towering snow capped peaks. A motorcycle tour through this region will be some of the greatest biking moments of your life. This motorcycle tour is a scenic overload, beginning in the Chilean Lakes district town of Pucon we ride into Argentina and onto Bariloche, via the famous seven lake ride, every inch is a scenic splendour. Further south we enter the vast and remote Patagonia stopping overnight at a, still working, Estancia before riding into more sensational scenery as we hit the Andes at El Chalten. No tour to this region should miss the incredible Moreno Glacier, we ride our bikes out to this staggeringly beautiful part of Patagonia before riding into Torres Del Paine National Park. This place will leave you awe struck and we dare to say that it is possibly the most scenic motorcycle ride in the world. This is an incredible motorcycle tour through some of the most amazing landscapes, most remote regions and most mythical areas in the world, no wonder its our top selling tour.

Any rules about spam here?

Phreaky Phil
28th August 2010, 08:58
[QUOTE=Padmei;1129845927]Any rules about spam here?[/QUOTE:angry:]Needs to be removed

igor
28th August 2010, 10:09
Thats the one I did, Got all my info about what caliper was required etc off this thread. Download the CAD drawing and take it into an engineer and they can make the bracket straight off the drawing, it contains everything the engineer needs to know. Others had already done all the investigation so it was easy.

It's not just about the mount spacing, the caliper must line up and provide appropriate coverage of the disc as well.

I sourced my RF900 caliper off Trade me from a wrecker in Chch.

just go to any bike shop and ask for the EBC pad book. any model that takes EBC FA145 (I think will do) suzuki gsxr400 750 1100 etc yamaha TZ125 FZ750 there are heaps .

BMWST?
28th August 2010, 17:37
just go to any bike shop and ask for the EBC pad book. any model that takes EBC FA145 (I think will do) suzuki gsxr400 750 1100 etc yamaha TZ125 FZ750 there are heaps .

interesting info in ebc catalogue,original pad (FA077)is 60x58x9 (ebc)disc is 285 dia,fa145 is 70x55.5x8 for ebc disc of 310gsxr 750 300 gsxr 400,and my honda/nissin caliper is fa 187 which is 68x54 x8 mm for a 300 dia disc,hope it works!

Eddieb
28th August 2010, 18:00
I updated my Trade Me auction this afternoon with a pic and list of all the spare bits. I actually ran out of room to list it all, turns out there's a limit to how many characters you can have in an auction listing.

Padmei
28th August 2010, 19:03
I borrowed a couple of RGV nissin callipers of Nordie today so will have a mock up & see what they look like.
When I was at the Suzuki shop (buying some yamaha indicators for my Kawasaki) an RF turned up out side so I could get a good look at the callipers. The calliper mounting holes seemed quite a bit more spaced than the RGV ones. At least it gives me something else to look at when I give the arm a rest from de rusting the spokes:laugh:

NordieBoy
28th August 2010, 21:56
RVF not RGV...

Padmei
28th August 2010, 23:12
RVF not RGV...

Whatever it was it's too small anyway:(

Will keep looking. I know what I need now :yes:

JATZ
28th August 2010, 23:15
Whatever it was it's too small anyway:(

Will keep looking. I know what I need now :yes:

Y'know padders....... You should be coming north on this Naki ride and have a shoofty @ phreaky phils ride to see what a well sorted airhead looks like :blink:

BMWST?
28th August 2010, 23:26
Whatever it was it's too small anyway:(

Will keep looking. I know what I need now :yes:



http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/80/136768580_full.jpg

Padmei
28th August 2010, 23:42
http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/80/136768580_full.jpg

Yeah they look good. I wish there was an ad to go with them tho.

BMWST?
29th August 2010, 00:25
Yeah they look good. I wish there was an ad to go with them tho.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=312039989

Padmei
29th August 2010, 08:31
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=312039989

Ah thanks.
What's a reasonable price to expect to pay for one of these? There are a pair for about $250.

Padmei
29th August 2010, 08:55
Anyone got a 2nd hand Clymer manual they're not needing & wish to sell?
$99 on trademe as an indication of price.

Box'a'bits
29th August 2010, 08:56
Ah thanks.
What's a reasonable price to expect to pay for one of these? There are a pair for about $250.Didnt see these come up. Any amount of Nissin 4 pots on e-bay for between $30-50 USD. Then you need to factor in freight at between USD 40-55. So those ones would be a about right at NZD 100.

If you get an adapter made up, maybe get two? I am looking to do this as well.

What sort of condition was your unifilter in? If good, would you consider letting me have it?

Cheers, Steve

Eddieb
29th August 2010, 10:16
Ah thanks.
What's a reasonable price to expect to pay for one of these? There are a pair for about $250.

Thats what I got one of for $70, pretty much every big Suzuki Sports Tourer and some of the 600cc sports bikes used these for years. $250 is daylight robbery.

Padmei
29th August 2010, 18:09
Thats what I got one of for $70, pretty much every big Suzuki Sports Tourer and some of the 600cc sports bikes used these for years. $250 is daylight robbery.

Yeah I've put some feelers out - I should know more tomm.

BMWST?
29th August 2010, 19:24
Thats what I got one of for $70, pretty much every big Suzuki Sports Tourer and some of the 600cc sports bikes used these for years. $250 is daylight robbery.
did you just get the one eddieI asked that guy if i could buy just one and he said NO!His buy now was 180 for the pair

Eddieb
29th August 2010, 20:09
did you just get the one eddieI asked that guy if i could buy just one and he said NO!His buy now was 180 for the pair

Yes I bought just one caliper. Myabe he stopped doing that cause half a pair wouldn't sell.

BMWST?
1st September 2010, 09:22
well the honda vtr calipers turned up today,looks promising.Damon from cycleworks(I am getting a 2-1 and the guts of the muffler rebuilt ) suggests a more modern pad will make the original front brake much better.So i have a couple of options to try now.
Will let you know how i get on.

Padmei
1st September 2010, 12:20
Let us know if they're a goer & I'd be interested in the RGV callipers. I won't bid against ya of course

Box'a'bits
1st September 2010, 12:34
So are you saying you won't bid against me either? I bid last night after I confirmed dimensions. :niceone:

igormortis
1st September 2010, 14:10
I bought a pair of calipers that I believe are Nissins, just branded as Triumph. Probably wont end up using 'em, so if they work, perhaps one of you guys could use one?

Padmei
1st September 2010, 17:48
I bought a pair of calipers that I believe are Nissins, just branded as Triumph. Probably wont end up using 'em, so if they work, perhaps one of you guys could use one?

I'd be keen on one that would do the job. PM me with the cost & we can talk turkey. Unless of course anyone else has nabbed them frst.

Padmei
1st September 2010, 17:49
So are you saying you won't bid against me either? I bid last night after I confirmed dimensions. :niceone:

Is there someone else out there looking as well as us? If so we may have enough to do a run of adapters.

Phreaky Phil
1st September 2010, 18:23
Is there someone else out there looking as well as us? If so we may have enough to do a run of adapters.
I'll take an adaptor if your getting a few made.
Cheers. Phil

Box'a'bits
1st September 2010, 18:47
Is there someone else out there looking as well as us? If so we may have enough to do a run of adapters.
I think they are the sort of item where it won't be hard to shift them. :yes: So, so far that''s Padmei, BMWRSNUT, Phreaky Phil. BMWST will you need an adapter for your Honda calipers? Any spares would be snapped up over on Advrider anyway. Got a good machine ship down your way? Otherwise I can possibly approach a former customer with a CNC machine. But I know he's pretty busy (the guy works huge hrs)

BMWST I assume you've sorted your ignition now?

Cheers, Steve

BMWST?
1st September 2010, 20:20
I think they are the sort of item where it won't be hard to shift them. :yes: So, so far that''s Padmei, BMWRSNUT, Phreaky Phil. BMWST will you need an adapter for your Honda calipers? Any spares would be snapped up over on Advrider anyway. Got a good machine ship down your way? Otherwise I can possibly approach a former customer with a CNC machine. But I know he's pretty busy (the guy works huge hrs)

BMWST I assume you've sorted your ignition now?

Cheers, Steve

am running igorpeters beancan.Am consdidering a motorad electik one.Several attempts at opening the origianl have failed.Posi drive impact bits on order.Drill is last resort.Will rebuild beancan too,then will have backup.I will need some sort of adaper for the Honda calipers,but i dont know if the "suuki/nissin adapert will work or not.The Honda /Nissin calipers are different to the popular suzuki ones

Padmei
1st September 2010, 20:25
Sorry i'm getting a bit confused between BMWST & BMWRSNUT - I may have replied incorrectly to someone -

Could you all just change yuor names to Trev?

igor
1st September 2010, 21:01
what ya gunna get the adapter brackets made out of. mine is stainless

topo
1st September 2010, 21:55
I'd be up for 2 adapters if someone else does all the work:yes:

BMWST?
1st September 2010, 22:01
what ya gunna get the adapter brackets made out of. mine is stainless

i think the suzuki/nissin adaper is aluminium.If i can use the same sort of adapter i will go that way too but if i need a full plate i would prefer stainless too i think.Depends if those in the know think if aluminium is kosher or not.

igormortis
1st September 2010, 22:26
Lemme do a measure up - I could be in for one.

Eddieb
1st September 2010, 22:32
i think the suzuki/nissin adaper is aluminium.If i can use the same sort of adapter i will go that way too but if i need a full plate i would prefer stainless too i think.Depends if those in the know think if aluminium is kosher or not.

Mine is aluminium, and all the ones I've seen on adv are also.

dino3310
1st September 2010, 22:34
Mine is aluminium, and all the ones I've seen on adv are also.

any possible buyers Eddie

igor
1st September 2010, 23:00
cheapskates. do stainless

Eddieb
2nd September 2010, 06:53
any possible buyers Eddie

80 tyre kickers, I mean watchers. It's coming up on 1000 views but no one serious.

BMWST?
2nd September 2010, 11:52
Mine is aluminium, and all the ones I've seen on adv are also.

the little block/spacer that you have is fine in aluminium ,but if i need a full plate,ie to convert from two holes on the fork to two completely different holes for the caliper I would be worried that
A) it would need to be stiff to make sure the caliper stays on the cl of the disc,and fatigue resistance .Your adapter relies on the integrity of the original lower caliper mount.
B)I dont know about the merits of heat conducting via the caliper adapter to the fork.I guess it cant be any worse (or different from the stock setup

BMWST?
2nd September 2010, 12:04
80 tyre kickers, I mean watchers. It's coming up on 1000 views but no one serious.

I looked last night interested in the sale but absolutely no interest in buying IYKWIM

Padmei
2nd September 2010, 18:19
I took a drawing in to an engineering shop. He reckoned he could do 10 for $290 in Ali or 10 for $350 in Stainless.
Apparently there isn't alot of difference in labour time between doing 5 or 10- maybe only 0.5 to 1hr. So 5 would cost about $50-60 each.

He is an avid motorcylclist himself (Ducatiista) & knows the Brembo single pot brake calliper.

Anyways I've got to find myself a calliper first before I get the adaptor made so it may not happen immediatey.
If you are dead certain you want one can you please PM me so I can keep a record of who wants one.

I guess this means everyone will be looking for callipers now & they'll hit the $500 mark:shutup:
Cheers

BMWST?
2nd September 2010, 21:15
I took a drawing in to an engineering shop. He reckoned he could do 10 for $290 in Ali or 10 for $350 in Stainless.
Apparently there isn't alot of difference in labour time between doing 5 or 10- maybe only 0.5 to 1hr. So 5 would cost about $50-60 each.

He is an avid motorcylclist himself (Ducatiista) & knows the Brembo single pot brake calliper.

Anyways I've got to find myself a calliper first before I get the adaptor made so it may not happen immediatey.
If you are dead certain you want one can you please PM me so I can keep a record of who wants one.

I guess this means everyone will be looking for callipers now & they'll hit the $500 mark:shutup:
Cheers

the nissin/suzuki adapter?

Box'a'bits
2nd September 2010, 21:22
I took a drawing in to an engineering shop. He reckoned he could do 10 for $290 in Ali or 10 for $350 in Stainless.
Apparently there isn't alot of difference in labour time between doing 5 or 10- maybe only 0.5 to 1hr. So 5 would cost about $50-60 each.

He is an avid motorcylclist himself (Ducatiista) & knows the Brembo single pot brake calliper.

I guess this means everyone will be looking for callipers now & they'll hit the $500 mark:shutup:
Cheers
I definitely want one, & am looking for this sooner rather than later. I think Ali will be fine. :yes:

Cheers, Steve

igor
2nd September 2010, 21:36
the were selling for $50 11 years ago when i got my first. that price is good. get the stainless

dino3310
3rd September 2010, 14:13
80 tyre kickers, I mean watchers. It's coming up on 1000 views but no one serious.

im a serious watcher mate, i just got no $$$$, mind you markets not the best at the moment.

igor
3rd September 2010, 15:12
any good to buy to be pulled to bits to sell parts

Padmei
5th September 2010, 16:40
While I'm waiting to find a cheap (not gonna pay $200:blink:) calliper & get adaptors made I was wondering if there is someone with a spare front stock caliper in their shed that I could borrow for a short time?
My original one is poked but would like to get Schmidtty Woffed at least.

I can repay with whatever you choose.

BMWST?
5th September 2010, 17:11
there must be a few of them lying around.!Do the r80 and r100 use the same brakes,the forks are different arent they?

igor
5th September 2010, 17:14
While I'm waiting to find a cheap (not gonna pay $200:blink:) calliper & get adaptors made I was wondering if there is someone with a spare front stock caliper in their shed that I could borrow for a short time?
My original one is poked but would like to get Schmidtty Woffed at least.

I can repay with whatever you choose.

oops threw my one away

Padmei
6th September 2010, 19:59
I will go in to the engineering shop tomm & get these adaptors underway.
So far i have 5 accounted for: Topox2, phil, RSnut, & myself. if anyoine else wants one let me know.

Cheers

igor
6th September 2010, 20:38
how many pesos and what you getting made of.

BMWST?
6th September 2010, 21:03
how many pesos and what you getting made of.

and what are you makin?

BMWST?
6th September 2010, 21:04
my collector boc had rusted out and it turned out my muffler had disentegrated internally.I got a y pipe form Cycleworks and he cut my muffler rin half and rebuilt the internals in stainless(the muffler is stainless)

topo
6th September 2010, 21:09
I will go in to the engineering shop tomm & get these adaptors underway.
So far i have 5 accounted for: Topox2, phil, RSnut, & myself. if anyoine else wants one let me know.

Cheers

I'd prefer an alloy adapter(s) if possible :shutup:

Padmei
6th September 2010, 21:38
They're gonna be alloy & about $50-60 each.

Padmei
6th September 2010, 21:41
and what are you makin?

Adaptors to fit a nissin 4 pot brake caliper to a GS fork as per the posts on the previous page.

topo
6th September 2010, 21:43
They're gonna be alloy & about $50-60 each.

SWEET AS:yes:

Eddieb
11th September 2010, 07:47
A couple of vids for your amusement with some 'proper' GS enduro riding.

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Woodman
11th September 2010, 09:02
That first one was bloody impressive:shit:

NordieBoy
11th September 2010, 09:16
Nice post-processing in the second one. They made it look like the GS was being wheelied.

Newguy
11th September 2010, 23:43
@Igormotis

Dont go spending too much on brake upgrades yet. That caliper I put on there still had the second hand pads in that I got with the caliper. Most likely if you buy a new set of pads and give them time to mate the surface you will find that the braking is sufficient. As it is you can lock the front if you cram it.

Eddieb
12th September 2010, 07:59
@Igormotis

Dont go spending too much on brake upgrades yet. That caliper I put on there still had the second hand pads in that I got with the caliper. Most likely if you buy a new set of pads and give them time to mate the surface you will find that the braking is sufficient. As it is you can lock the front if you cram it.

+1 on this.

When I did the RF900 upgrade on the PD I was less than impressed initially, performance was only marginally better. I was using the used pads supplied with the caliper. Putting new pads in made a significant improvement.

marks
12th September 2010, 08:23
A couple of vids for your amusement with some 'proper' GS enduro riding.

kewl

imagine how much faster they'd have been on KLR's

NordieBoy
12th September 2010, 10:36
kewl

imagine how much louder they'd have been on KLR's

Probably not much...

igormortis
13th September 2010, 12:26
@Igormotis

Dont go spending too much on brake upgrades yet...

Don't worry - I'm happy with what the GS has got. This would be for somethin else...

BMWST?
13th September 2010, 14:44
I will be doing an order to motobins tonight...anyone need parts??

BMWST?
13th September 2010, 20:56
order made......

Padmei
15th September 2010, 21:08
Those awaiting adaptors - i have posted my findings with the new adaptor & calliper here
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=14017375#post14017375

Are any of you guys around 6ft? I'm finding the sitting postion of the BM quite constricted & was wondering if it is nature of the riding postion of these bikes - or if mine has been lowered - or if my undies are too tight:wacko:
i know my KLR is tall but ...

Phreaky Phil
15th September 2010, 21:44
A lot of people fit lower pegs to get a more leg room and also help with standing up. I'm 5.10 and mines just OK. Knees can get a bit sore and need a stetch on long trips

Eddieb
15th September 2010, 23:50
I'm 5'8 and I found mine cramped in the leg dept. I fitted slighty lower pegs (Pivot Pegz) but that brings it's own set of issues with lever access that then has to be dealt with unless you buy a full kit.

Box'a'bits
16th September 2010, 02:15
Are any of you guys around 6ft? I'm finding the sitting postion of the BM quite constricted & was wondering if it is nature of the riding postion of these bikes - or if mine has been lowered I'm 6'1". I can stand it for a day ride. But I'm going to increase the seat height. Probably quite cost effective, and will aid the transition to standing. I've got to modify the seat anyway, given the tank.

BMWST?
16th September 2010, 11:46
i am 6 3 and although i am concious of the legs being quite bent it doesnt cause me any greif.However most of my extra height is in body length so leg length wise i am only 6 ft ,so when i am standing i really do need bar risers

NordieBoy
16th September 2010, 13:39
I'm 6'2" and on the DR I've lowered the foot pegs 2.5cm, moved them back 2.5cm raised the seat 5cm, higher bars, bar risers.

A bit lower on the foot pegs and fractionally higher on the bars and all would be well with the world.

barrie
17th September 2010, 08:45
I'm 5'9" and mine feels on the cramped side. Cheers.

Aslan
17th September 2010, 20:18
current discussion of lowered pegs - cramped knees etc resonnates with me - I'm among the older riders (read inflexible due to ageing and lack of stretching regime) and despite lowered Touratech pegs and seat on high setting I get pain in the knees when riding greater than 100KM - consequently I stand a great deal :)

Waihou Thumper
17th September 2010, 20:30
current discussion of lowered pegs - cramped knees etc resonnates with me - I'm among the older riders (read inflexible due to ageing and lack of stretching regime) and despite lowered Touratech pegs and seat on high setting I get pain in the knees when riding greater than 100KM - consequently I stand a great deal :)

And I thought it was for the camera...Geez....:)

Aslan
18th September 2010, 19:11
And I thought it was for the camera...Geez....:)

fair call Mark - Charlie Boorman wannabe that i am :sweatdrop

Padmei
18th September 2010, 20:53
I've done a search on GSers & OLds cool but am interested in what you guys have done to your front suspensions to make them 'better'.
Went on the first real off road ride on Schmidtty today & apart from cutting 4inches of height off my body so I can actually stand up without feeling like I'm a jockey, I feel the need to mprove the performance of the front forks.

What aftermarket springs/ emulators/intimators doesanyone have?

Box'a'bits
18th September 2010, 22:39
Went on the first real off road ride on Schmidtty today & apart from cutting 4inches of height off my body so I can actually stand up without feeling like I'm a jockey, I feel the need to mprove the performance of the front forks.
Helps to remember the GS really isn't a dirt bike. :ride: But the forks can apparently be tuned okay.. (helps to have more appropriate tyres too - helps heaps with the confidence).

I haven't got to the forks yet, but the 'Raptor' bend bars & 2" rox risers have helped with standing in the rough stuff on the bike. :wings:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_OZDusBNIgW4/TJCRzoVKLvI/AAAAAAAAEXo/OnzaIuJh6tE/s400/DSCF1058.JPG
Probably need to get a cross bar so they don't look so much like apehangers.

Eddieb
19th September 2010, 00:17
Mine has 30mm bar risers and the bars are almost vertical to get maximum height out of them and it's pretty good for me at 5'8. The forks really need some work to reduce dive and provide some compression damping though.

Padmei
19th September 2010, 08:20
What have you done to your forks Eddie?

I've seen untold GS' all hard core & dirted up & don't believe for a minute they aren't dirt bikes. If you believe most of the KLR riders they'd say the KLR isn't a dirt bike - funny-cos it's got me a hell of a lot of gnarly places - albeit with many battle scars.

Apart from swapping WP forks for a lot of money there must be something good todo to them. I see there are progressive springs & cocktailing the fork oil stuff. Any intimators that people have seen?

Woodman
19th September 2010, 08:29
What have you done to your forks Eddie?

I've seen untold GS' all hard core & dirted up & don't believe for a minute they aren't dirt bikes. If you believe most of the KLR riders they'd say the KLR isn't a dirt bike - funny-cos it's got me a hell of a lot of gnarly places - albeit with many battle scars.

Apart from swapping WP forks for a lot of money there must be something good todo to them. I see there are progressive springs & cocktailing the fork oil stuff. Any intimators that people have seen?

Get some usd forks for Gonzo and put Gonzos forks on Schmidt. Whalla (sic)

JATZ
19th September 2010, 09:04
What size forks do you have Padmei ? I have a set of progressive springs here I took out of the Big, your more than welcome to try them

Padmei
19th September 2010, 09:09
Thanks I will measure up & see. Do the progressives make that much diff?

Box'a'bits
19th September 2010, 09:09
I've seen untold GS' all hard core & dirted up & don't believe for a minute they aren't dirt bikes. If you believe most of the KLR riders they'd say the KLR isn't a dirt bike - funny-cos it's got me a hell of a lot of gnarly places - albeit with many battle scars.

I see there are progressive springs & cocktailing the fork oil stuff. Any intimators that people have seen?
DON'T put progressive springs in. It makes it harder to tune the forks. Here's several links that might help, here (http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r100gs/progressive_springs/index.html) & here (http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r100gs/gold_valve/index.html). Anton Largiader (http://www.largiader.com/tech/gsforks/) has also done a fork rebuild on his website. You've also seen Infracophiles (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=431153&page=36) rebuild on his thread (from post 537).

Re fork swaps you are limited by the paralever travel. Any new fork would need to give about the same level of travel as stock.

The Marazochis can be tuned to be reasonably compliant. Mine felt good in gravel. I haven't yet taken it into any rough stuff.

marks
19th September 2010, 11:23
Mine has 30mm bar risers and the bars are almost vertical to get maximum height out of them and it's pretty good for me at 5'8. The forks really need some work to reduce dive and provide some compression damping though.

Eddie

I would be interested in your thoughts comparing the air head to the 950A

I would have thought the airhead would be a much more confidence inspiring ride for the vertically limited?

I also wondered if the airhead would be a better gravel sled with its low cg and torquey motor?

I cant really see what a 950 would offer an average rider (not hard chargers) over a well sorted/modded airhead?

thoughts?

Padmei
19th September 2010, 18:49
Hi guys. i've just posted this on olds cool in case anyone can help.
cheers

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=621563

Kokopelli
19th September 2010, 19:02
Hi guys. i've just posted this on olds cool in case anyone can help.
cheers

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=621563


This is the one that I have in my gearbox

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/Berwyn/Basic/gearboxseal.jpg

There is also a black one. I didn't do the job myself, because getting to the seal involves a long lever and a lot of torque. I was told that either seal will work. There is also a small v-slot that needs to be sealed. Hope this is not too abstruse.

From Joerg's website:

http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/gear/geartool1.jpg

http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/gearbox.html

Padmei
19th September 2010, 19:15
Thanjks Koko.

p

Eddieb
19th September 2010, 19:26
I would be interested in your thoughts comparing the air head to the 950A
Take a 70's Cortina and compare it to a 2K Euro sports car.


I would have thought the airhead would be a much more confidence inspiring ride for the vertically limited?
The airhead carries it's weight much lower, even taking into consideration the average standard suspension it's way more confidence inspiring that the 950, which feels 'flighty' by comparison.
I have about the same amount of foot contact with the ground on both bikes but the PD is lower and a bit wider where the 950 is skinny and tall, and again the way the 2 bikes carry their weight is much different. Also when slding off one side of the seat to get more foot contact the GS you have to move far less on the GS as it's lower to start with.
An R80G/S was my first adv bike and I'd never done any off road riding before, I had done quite a few very easy gravel roads on sportsbikes but that was it, never even ridden a trail bike. That ride with you and Jim out to Sutherlands 2-3 years ago was my first proper off road ride. and I'm glad it was on an airhead.


I also wondered if the airhead would be a better gravel sled with its low cg and torquey motor?
It depends on how you like to ride, BMW = solid, planted stable and all those words, very cruisy and relaxed, 950 = ride it like you stole it to get the best from it. I would actually suggest yes, though I prefer the 800 motor over the thou pretty much everywhere except for distance open road work.

I've said it before but to me the 950 mid range feels flat compared to the airhead due to differences in tuning. The airheads have a monster mid range and the 800 will happily light up the rear wheel everywhere off the seal.


I cant really see what a 950 would offer an average rider (not hard chargers) over a well sorted/modded airhead?
Apart from buying a bike with well sorted suspension as standard vrs having to do it yourself that would be a tough argument.

BMWST?
19th September 2010, 19:36
What have you done to your forks Eddie?

I've seen untold GS' all hard core & dirted up & don't believe for a minute they aren't dirt bikes. If you believe most of the KLR riders they'd say the KLR isn't a dirt bike - funny-cos it's got me a hell of a lot of gnarly places - albeit with many battle scars.

Apart from swapping WP forks for a lot of money there must be something good todo to them. I see there are progressive springs & cocktailing the fork oil stuff. Any intimators that people have seen?

My forks FEEL as though they have very little damping at all.They are very compliant and on the road offer a very plush ride.However as soon as you start pushing them they feel quite harsh and not very responsive.Some guys do fit race tech emulators to them but i have never got to the bottom of it.Some peole say the forks have comp damping in one leg and rebound in the other.Some say one laeg does all the damping and the other does nothing.In theory the gspd forks should be quite good with 41 mm legs and relatively long travel.I beleive the 800s have smaller dia legs.When i go up to NP to get my shock i am gonna see what Mr Taylor says.

Box'a'bits
19th September 2010, 19:50
My forks FEEL as though they have very little damping at all.They are very compliant. However as soon as you start pushing them they feel quite harsh and not very responsive. Some guys do fit race tech emulators to them but i have never got to the bottom of it. Some peole say the forks have comp damping in one leg and rebound in the other. In theory the gspd forks should be quite good with 41 mm legs and relatively long travel. When i go up to NP to get my shock i am gonna see what Mr Taylor says.
I briefly discussed this with Robert in an e-mail when I ordered the new shock. He said in theory the Race Tech valve in the rebound leg should work. But it didn't sound as if he had experience with this.

I have also been told that in theory we could take the internals from another cartridge fork & fit those. But I haven't seen anyone discussing what forks these would come from (apart from the NLA HPN inserts).

On my bike, the ride is fine, but a bit wallowy when pressing on , which is more an issue with the rear shock (which is pretty shot).

Padmei, how much oil did you put in your gearbox at last change? Did you fill to quantity, or until it just started to dribble out of the fill hole when on the centrestand? Take the gearbox fill plug out while its on the stand & see if any comes out (an indication of an overfill). A little leak can go a long way. Unusual for it to come out the left side - you obviously use your side stand a lot. Is your breather clear (the bolt holding the earthstrap on & the speedo cable in the gearbox). Take it out & inspect it. If its blocked, then when the oil expands as the gearbox gets hot, it blows out the output shaft seals.

My last gearbox leak was an overfill. It didn't continue once I remedied that issue. If you attend to this & the breather, it may be fine.

Eddieb
19th September 2010, 19:50
What have you done to your forks Eddie?

Nothing, though for the black 800 (32mm forks) I did a lot of research on ADV and elsewhere and changed both the fluid viscosity and volume using different volumes in each leg as per the wisdom of the masses. From memory I went to 15 weight oil on one side and about 17.5 on the other.

That gave a noticable change, not WP but very worthwhile given it just took a couple of hours and a bottle of fork oil.

NordieBoy
19th September 2010, 20:52
I cant really see what a 950 would offer an average rider (not hard chargers) over a well sorted/modded airhead?

thoughts?

If you're going through a normal deep wheel rut, you'd want to be on the 950...

As Padmei/Schmidtty found yesterday.

Phreaky Phil
19th September 2010, 21:23
You can get the forks to feel better with some tuning of oil viscosities. The left leg does compression and the right rebound (unless someone has swapped the internals around) The compression side is done with a tapered damper rod that alters oil flow as the fork is compressed. Thats why it feels like it has no compression damping at the top of the stroke. An emulator cant be fitted to this fork leg. The right side does rebound which is done by a spring loaded valve. This works OK. If you fit an emulator it goes in this leg and then this fork leg does both compression and rebound.
Cartridge emulators usually come in pairs and one is fitted in each leg. Most forks do both comp and rebound and the compression holes in the bottom of the damper rods are drilled larger to disable them so the emulators do the work.
With the BMW GS you can only fit one in the rebound leg. Ive seen threads of people drilling the holes larger in the bottom of this leg thinking they are disabling the compression damping but there is none. If you disable the compression damping in the Compression fork leg then the 1 emulator in the other leg is trying to do all the work. If you leave the Comp leg alone and add an emulator in the rebound leg it will feel like you've gained more rebound in the early part of the stroke but you will get to much in the latter part and will mike the spiking affect of high speed hits worse. A lot of fiddling may get it ok.
Antons site shows the internals well. http://www.largiader.com/tech/gsforks/
No easy solution. The HPN inserts would be great but unavailable

Padmei
20th September 2010, 07:58
Thanks for the advice gentlemen. I will go down the fork oil route & see what happens.

Yes I managed to get schmidtty wedged on Saturday - bugger.

igormortis
20th September 2010, 15:50
...When i go up to NP to get my shock i am gonna see what Mr Taylor says...

You gonna ride up? I wouldn't mind tagging along if you do.

Padmei
20th September 2010, 17:51
You gonna ride up? I wouldn't mind tagging along if you do.

Ccan you record what he says about the GS shocks & put it on a podcast?:)

BMWST?
20th September 2010, 20:46
Ccan you record what he says about the GS shocks & put it on a podcast?:)

shock or fork?

BMWST?
20th September 2010, 20:47
You gonna ride up? I wouldn't mind tagging along if you do.

I am gonna ride up,wanna take a few days of work and maybe go via some back roads.I need to give them a few days notice cos i want him to look at the forks too.

Phreaky Phil
20th September 2010, 21:02
We had mine apart over there having a look, but that was quite some time back so hes probably forgotten what they like inside. He also rebuilt my shock a while back, although its a WP BMW one

Padmei
21st September 2010, 17:38
HI guys
I picked up the adaptors today & they are a thing of beauty. Must be nice to be an engineer & create such pretty things.

If you PM your address I'll send them out. The final cost was $77.00 incl GSt each + whatever postage is, so more than original cost but worth it I think. If you want I can colour them in with the girls colouring pens to get that anodised look.

They made up a couple more for spares if you know anyone else that wants one.

I wil be filing the ridge down on the calliper this weekend to get them sitting centre of the disc.

igor
21st September 2010, 17:57
need picture

Padmei
21st September 2010, 19:52
Here's the thread. Looks exactly the same as the first pic here. (of courwse my spokes aren't as nice)

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75031&highlight=FA145

Padmei
21st September 2010, 19:53
Here's the thread. Looks exactly the same as the first pic here. (of courwse my spokes aren't as nice)

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75031&highlight=FA145

I will after next weekend post up some pics of what I've been doing to Schmidtty on the adv thread - if that's what you mean.

Underground
23rd September 2010, 21:50
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-319887626.htm

Padmei
23rd September 2010, 21:57
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-319887626.htm

I heard that there's gonna be one coming up for sale in Nelson this week.

Looks good.

JATZ
24th September 2010, 05:31
I heard that there's gonna be one coming up for sale in Nelson this week.

Looks good.

It does look good. I bet it won't last long, infact I'm almost tempted m'self it's just a shame the ergos are all wrong

Aslan
24th September 2010, 20:01
I heard that there's gonna be one coming up for sale in Nelson this week.

Looks good.

that Moto was owned by a pal of mine Bula Bill on here - he traded it on an F650GS (800cc) - nice machine for someone passionate about airheads - tempted myself were in not for Rubber Ducky (my trusty 'leven fiddy)

Box'a'bits
25th September 2010, 13:31
Moorespeed (http://www.moorespeed.co.uk/):drool:

BTW, rcvd the brake adaptor this morning, thanks 'BMW Bling Accessories' of Nelson...:niceone: Excuse me, must pop out to the garage now...

Padmei
25th September 2010, 16:20
That is an excellent site. I had a look the other nite & was impressed with the info - a lot more than other co.s would put up. It seemed to me to be more honest & not prone to the "we're the best & others are imidator inimat - copiers".Well my impression anyway.

Some of those bikes - wow- but I couldn't keep them in that kind of condition.

Maybe I'll start up a cottage BMW unbling industry supplying homemade products not quite right but'll do...

NordieBoy
25th September 2010, 18:03
Maybe I'll start up a cottage BMW unbling industry supplying homemade products not quite right but'll do...

Bumper stickers saying "My other bike's a KLR".

Tired of the pipe and slippers? Let your inner KLRista run wild with our extensive range of beer crate top boxes, checkerplate bashplates, pre-scratched handguards, pre-worn tyres and complete sets of drivetrain hammers.

No job to small or too um.. small.

NordieBoy
27th September 2010, 09:25
One to mess with the mind...
219650

Padmei
27th September 2010, 16:29
I like the wrapped headers:yes:

NordieBoy
27th September 2010, 16:56
Looks like a DR650 Safari tank too.

Aslan
28th September 2010, 18:44
One to mess with the mind...
219650


more please Nordie - looks like an 1150GS with a Katoom front end - cheers Aslan

NordieBoy
28th September 2010, 21:08
The original build thread. He is up to version 2.5 now...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217713

Padmei
29th September 2010, 06:50
Bloody amazing. Where did you find version 2.5 tho?
I can see the merits of using 2 wrecked bikes but wouldn't feel comfortable cutting up a new bike to do it.

Mind you an old ex rental thats seen betterdays could be a contender...

NordieBoy
29th September 2010, 07:33
They're mainly hidden away in here...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=596881

Padmei
29th September 2010, 19:51
Haha Nordies an Aussie:shutup: