The BMW GS boxer twin thread

[Eddieb]

Seems theres a fair bit of interest in the BMW GS series bikes So I thought I'd start a thread devoted to them so that owners can post pics, ask questions and offer me advice to help me fix mine when they are broken :laugh:
Plus all those others who haven't owned up to coveting one yet can jealously drool over them.

My input will focus towards the airheads obviously but oilheads and Hexheads are welcome to join in.

[Eddieb]

So to start the ball rolling, I think most people here are familiar with my 2.

1982 R80G/S
http://cxw7jg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1ptDxgkVqyno4vCa-YYIYN6TDmO111VVdwi2O_f6gcuhKn5a6X_zuLubhHZbuFuYYsK l3X1t9Zq_0/R80GSsm.jpg

1994 R100GS Paris Dakar
http://cxw7jg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p1RstUxJrpbe35KgWbVQd9To4W6IUSM-AkPonTbPxlwlvt5g7R7G9ejRbqWVw36XL3-U0fCroqrk/R100GSPDsm.jpg

[Padmei]

greedy bastard.:weep:

Is that the original colour - brown?

[Phreaky Phil]

Glad we've finally got a thread of our own. I had been planning to start one but hadn't quite got there. !! Here's a pic of my 92 R80GS. Evolution model or "work in progress". I has many mods and still more to come. The latest project is a rear disc conversion because the rear brake is crap ! Almost all of the parts have been aquired but the conversion will have to wait till after our Sth Island trip. As I get the time I will show what else has been done.

[Taz]

Are oil heads allowed?

[Eddieb]

So I took the PD on the Ngawi - White Rock ride in the weekend and rode home in near torrential rain. Half way down the Wellington motorway I realised I had no brake light, indicators or horn. Suspecting water had got in somewhere and nearing home I wasn't too worried aobut it.

But now that the bike has dried out they are still not going.

My electrics are complicated by the fact that sometime in the past a Touratech IMO100 Rallye Computer & idiot lights kit, headlight & small windscreen have been installed.
This means under my tank and behind the headlight is a mass of wires which bear no resemblance to the original setup. There's plugs and wires everywhere that have no mate and just hang around doing nothing.

I've just spent about 2 hours in the garage stripping the tank and headlight off and trying to find anything unusual, in a setup that is unusual to start with.
I've not had any joy so far, I didn't find anything that appear to be newly broken, at least whoever installed the Touratech gear taped up all the excess wires so it's obvious they haven't just disconnected themselves, there's no bare ends handing around except for one plug which wasn't taped, but for which I can't find a mate.

One thing that has confused me, there are 2 wires running up the inside of the handlebars, they enter through a hole just above the steering head and as far as I can tell one goes up each side of the bars. I don't have heated grips so I'm confused as to what they are for, the controls on each side have a large cable that runs down the outside of the bars the same way most bikes do.
One of the wires appears to be attached to something, there is resistance when pressure is applied, but the other set isn't and pulled out of the bars with no resistance. The ends are bare, but don't look like a new break as the wire is very oxidised.

One other item of note is that the only idiot light that seems to be working is the highbeam. The oil light doesn't come up when you switch it on, and the neutral light isn't working either.

[Eddieb]

Are oil heads allowed?

Yup, read the intro. Oilheads and hexheads welcome, though you need to understand they are all pretenders to the throne and the one true GS is the airhead :Pokey:
I don't think little old NZ has a big enough base to sustain seperate active threads on each generation. You'r all welcome to prove me wrong though.

[Waihou Thumper]

We are going to NOW have to add the Orange Crush thread like ADV, then we can all be happy, not to mention the Big Thumpers too....

:wari:

The brown one looks nice, I could go one of them, it is close to orange as you can get with BMW...:woohoo:

:)

[Phreaky Phil]

So I took the PD on the Ngawi - White Rock ride in the weekend and rode home in near torrential rain. Half way down the Wellington motorway I realised I had no brake light, indicators or horn. Suspecting water had got in somewhere and nearing home I wasn't too worried aobut it.

But now that the bike has dried out they are still not going.

My electrics are compicated by the fact that sometime in the past a Touratech IMO100 Rallye Computer & idiot lights kit, headlight & small windscreen have been installed.
This means under my tank and behind the headlight is a mass of wires which bear no resemblance to the original setup. There's plugs and wires everywhere that have no mate and just hang around doing nothing.

I've just spent about 2 hours in the garage stripping the tank and headlight off and trying to find anything unusual, in a setup that is unusual to start with.
I've not had any joy so far, I didn't find anything that appear to be newly broken, at least whoever installed the Touratech gear taped up all the excess wires so it's obvious they haven't just disconnected themselves, they're no bare ends handing around except for one plug which wasn't taped, but for which I can't find a mate.

One thing that has confused me, there are 2 wires running up the inside of the handlebars, they enter through a hole just above the sterring head and as far as I can tell one goes up each side of the bars. I don't have heated grips so I'm confused as to what they are for, the controls on each side have a large cable that runs down teh outside of the bars the same way most bikes do.
One of the wires appear to be attahced to something, there is resistance when pressure is applied, but the other set isn't and pulled out of the bars with no resistance. The ends are bare, but don't lokolike a new break as the wire is very oxidised.The wires up the bars are for the heated grips or whats left of them. I'll get my manual and have a study of the wiring diagram ( sparky by trade and have spent a fair bit of time with the electrics on mine )

[Eddieb]

The wires up the bars are for the heated grips or whats left of them. I'll get my manual and have a study of the wiring diagram ( sparky by trade and have spent a fair bit of time with the electrics on mine )


Ohhh, you shouldn't have told me that. You might be my new best mate ;)

[Taz]

My 98 R1100GS on the rainbow road. Just clicked over 121,000kms and still going strong.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v204/AJAdams/Rainbow1a.jpg

[Eddieb]

greedy bastard.:weep:

Is that the original colour - brown?

I don't believe so. I've never seen or heard of a brown one before.

[Eddieb]

My 98 R1100GS on the rainbow road. Just clicked over 121,000kms and still going strong.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v204/AJAdams/Rainbow1a.jpg

I SO want to do those roads. It looks like you are having fun. The Black Forest, Rainbow, Molesworth are all on my must do list.

I've done Danseys a couple of times on sportbikes, once in the snow and wouldn't mind revisiting that also.

[Phreaky Phil]

So I took the PD on the Ngawi - White Rock ride in the weekend and rode home in near torrential rain. Half way down the Wellington motorway I realised I had no brake light, indicators or horn. Suspecting water had got in somewhere and nearing home I wasn't too worried aobut it.

But now that the bike has dried out they are still not going.

My electrics are complicated by the fact that sometime in the past a Touratech IMO100 Rallye Computer & idiot lights kit, headlight & small windscreen have been installed.
This means under my tank and behind the headlight is a mass of wires which bear no resemblance to the original setup. There's plugs and wires everywhere that have no mate and just hang around doing nothing.

I've just spent about 2 hours in the garage stripping the tank and headlight off and trying to find anything unusual, in a setup that is unusual to start with.
I've not had any joy so far, I didn't find anything that appear to be newly broken, at least whoever installed the Touratech gear taped up all the excess wires so it's obvious they haven't just disconnected themselves, there's no bare ends handing around except for one plug which wasn't taped, but for which I can't find a mate.

One thing that has confused me, there are 2 wires running up the inside of the handlebars, they enter through a hole just above the steering head and as far as I can tell one goes up each side of the bars. I don't have heated grips so I'm confused as to what they are for, the controls on each side have a large cable that runs down the outside of the bars the same way most bikes do.
One of the wires appears to be attached to something, there is resistance when pressure is applied, but the other set isn't and pulled out of the bars with no resistance. The ends are bare, but don't look like a new break as the wire is very oxidised.

One other item of note is that the only idiot light that seems to be working is the highbeam. The oil light doesn't come up when you switch it on, and the neutral light isn't working either.After a quick look it appears the horn and indicators are feed from the same fuse (F4 on the fuse block) The brake light is from F1 so thats a bit weird. Are you sure all fuses OK ?

[Paladin]

I SO want to do those roads. It looks like you are having fun. The Black Forest, Rainbow, Molesworth are all on my must do list.

I've done Danseys a couple of times on sportbikes, once in the snow and wouldn't mind revisiting that also.

Junkmanjoe & I are starting to formulate a SI tour plan mate, you'd be very welcome to join us!!!!!! :2thumbsup

[Eddieb]

After a quick look it appears the horn and indicators are feed from the same fuse (F4 on the fuse block) The brake light is from F1 so thats a bit weird. Are you sure all fuses OK ?

First thing I did was pull the fuses, there's only the one block next to the battery?
They were all good, 4 x 15amp.

I have a Haynes manual with the diagrams although it only covers up to 1988, but electrikery is mostly black magic and voodoo to me.

[Eddieb]

Junkmanjoe & I are starting to formulate a SI tour plan mate, you'd be very welcome to join us!!!!!! :2thumbsup

Interested, depends on very much on when, how long and how much though as I also have other things to spend money on and other palces to save leave for.

Of course if someone would buy my 888 then the money issue would be a lot less of an issue.

[Taz]

I SO want to do those roads. It looks like you are having fun. The Black Forest, Rainbow, Molesworth are all on my must do list.

I've done Danseys a couple of times on sportbikes, once in the snow and wouldn't mind revisiting that also.

Cary and I did the Rainbow and molesworth in one day from Motueka to Picton including an hour lunch break in hanmer springs. Was a great day part of our south island tour. See here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=67930)

[Phreaky Phil]

This pic is from the Omarama Saddle. Its a track runs between Omarama and St Bathans and crosses 3 stations. I believe its under doc control now and can be accessed without permission.

[Paladin]

Interested, depends on very much on when, how long and how much though as I also have other things to spend money on and other palces to save leave for.

Of course if someone would buy my 888 then the money issue would be a lot less of an issue.

Well Saturday the 3 of us may get a little time to chat over such things, in between diggering and returning/picking up of repaired DR's! :niceone:

[Motu]

I don't need no GS for my riding.My battery seems to have died (still charging,but thoughts of diode board,gulp) and I had to push start on this flat gravel road with what some would call street tyres yesterday.Like bump starting a step through...who need a kick start?

[BMWST?]

So I took the PD on the Ngawi - White Rock ride in the weekend and rode home in near torrential rain. Half way down the Wellington motorway I realised I had no brake light, indicators or horn. Suspecting water had got in somewhere and nearing home I wasn't too worried aobut it.

But now that the bike has dried out they are still not going.

My electrics are complicated by the fact that sometime in the past a Touratech IMO100 Rallye Computer & idiot lights kit, headlight & small windscreen have been installed.
This means under my tank and behind the headlight is a mass of wires which bear no resemblance to the original setup. There's plugs and wires everywhere that have no mate and just hang around doing nothing.

I've just spent about 2 hours in the garage stripping the tank and headlight off and trying to find anything unusual, in a setup that is unusual to start with.
I've not had any joy so far, I didn't find anything that appear to be newly broken, at least whoever installed the Touratech gear taped up all the excess wires so it's obvious they haven't just disconnected themselves, there's no bare ends handing around except for one plug which wasn't taped, but for which I can't find a mate.

One thing that has confused me, there are 2 wires running up the inside of the handlebars, they enter through a hole just above the steering head and as far as I can tell one goes up each side of the bars. I don't have heated grips so I'm confused as to what they are for, the controls on each side have a large cable that runs down the outside of the bars the same way most bikes do.
One of the wires appears to be attached to something, there is resistance when pressure is applied, but the other set isn't and pulled out of the bars with no resistance. The ends are bare, but don't look like a new break as the wire is very oxidised.

One other item of note is that the only idiot light that seems to be working is the highbeam. The oil light doesn't come up when you switch it on, and the neutral light isn't working either.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160555

[Phreaky Phil]

First thing I did was pull the fuses, there's only the one block next to the battery?
They were all good, 4 x 15amp.

I have a Haynes manual with the diagrams although it only covers up to 1988, but electrikery is mostly black magic and voodoo to me.Hmmmmm, could be tricky, testing by remote control. You need a means of testing for power, a multimeter or test lamp. The first place I would be testing is for power on both sides of Fuse 4. Should be green and black wire. May be check the brake light bulb in case thats blown. Easy to follow red herrings with lectrickery, as i cant see a tie up between the brake light and the horn and indicators. A broken earth can cause grief, looks like theres several, one near the turn signal and cancelling unit looks interesting but without that the tail light wouldnt work either. Does the head light work ? This will only be relavent if it hasnt been dicked with when the TT headlight was fitted.

[Eddieb]

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160555

Thanks, thats very interesting. Slightly different in that my indicator flashers aren't doing anything at all but some worthwhile leads to try. I have blown out and reseated every plug I could find, and I did notice one earth connection that was looking a bit sad and could do with a rewire.

Looks like it's not going to be an easy fix anyway.

[Eddieb]

Hmmmmm, could be tricky, testing by remote control. You need a means of testing for power, a multimeter or test lamp. The first place I would be testing is for power on both sides of Fuse 4. Should be green and black wire. May be check the brake light bulb in case thats blown. Easy to follow red herrings with lectrickery, as i cant see a tie up between the brake light and the horn and indicators. A broken earth can cause grief, looks like theres several, one near the turn signal and cancelling unit looks interesting but without that the tail light wouldnt work either. Does the head light work ? This will only be relavent if it hasnt been dicked with when the TT headlight was fitted.

Headlight works, both main and high beam and the high beam idiot light, but not the main beam idiot light.
Sounds like tomorrow night if time allows I'm pulling the rear brake light, checking out the switch, re-doing the dodgy looking earth which is near the turn signal unit. I have to work late though so it will depend on how late that is. This bike is my main commuter so I'm having to take the train at the moment which triples my travel time.

I have a multi meter and can test voltage and continuity but thats about it. I think I have a spare bulb I can try in the brake light also, or if worst comes to worst, rip the one out of the 800.

[Eddieb]

Ventura L Brackets for a R100GS PD, Dolds are out of stock and between production runs so none are around at the moment.

Crash bar clamp that the PD bikini fairing attaches to on each side. One of mine is missing.

WOF compliant braided brake line, banjo's and bolts to suit R80G/S. My G/S just failed it's WOF cause apparently the line on it no longer complies.

Rear brake light switch to suit R80G/S. This has also died.

If no-one has any around I'm going to order them all from a dealer shortly.

[JATZ]

Not sure if this link is any good to you, but I got some stuff from them for our 2 f650's.
A lot cheaper than the local dealer and pretty quick postage too, was quoted 4 wks for delivery localy and they delivered in about 7 days

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/index.php?q=

[Eddieb]

Well, like the ADV thread BMWST? directed me to it looks like I have multiple faults.

I've discovered that my rear lightbulb had blown on 1 filament, and that the blown half had fallen onto the other filament. Stealing the bulb out of the R80 shows the brake light now works with both the front and rear brake levers.

The earth connection I thought may have been dodgy both is and isn't. It isn't cause you disconnect it and everything dies, reconnect it and the dash, ignition etc is live again. However it is dodgy cause when I pulled it apart I discovered it's just bare wire wrapped around a bolt and done up tight. I'll solder & crimp a proper spade connector on the wire and connect it back up.

i'm no closer otherwise at this stage to figure out why I've no indicators and dash lights (except high beam).

[junkmanjoe]

Eddieb my be test you indactor flasher unit, my have shorted out.

[Phreaky Phil]

Well, like the ADV thread BMWST? directed me to it looks like I have multiple faults.

I've discovered that my rear lightbulb had blown on 1 filament, and that the blown half had fallen onto the other filament. Stealing the bulb out of the R80 shows the brake light now works with both the front and rear brake levers.

The earth connection I thought may have been dodgy both is and isn't. It isn't cause you disconnect it and everything dies, reconnect it and the dash, ignition etc is live again. However it is dodgy cause when I pulled it apart I discovered it's just bare wire wrapped around a bolt and done up tight. I'll solder & crimp a proper spade connector on the wire and connect it back up.

i'm no closer otherwise at this stage to figure out why I've no indicators and dash lights (except high beam).Thats OK.One thing fixed .I've looked at manual again. Need to test at fuse F4 to see if power getting there. Just had a look at my fuse block. It is the rear fuse. (numbers are in lid) Use multimer on DC volts. put -ve lead to frame. This fuse powers horn and indicators. We need to see if power getting to this point. Key must be on.

[Kokopelli]

I've got a PDF copy of an R80GS manual. If anyone wants a copy let me know.

I am still messing with the clutch piston on the R80. Looks like I've stuffed something up on reassembly. Hope to get it under control soon. The clutch itself is fine (I think, hope....).

[Eddieb]

Well I'm done in the garage tonight. I'm not feeling great so ran out of energy and willingness to be out in the cold garage.
I soldered a spade connector onto the crap earth, cleaned up the surfaces and did that back up. Also checked and cleaned up the main battery earth down near the gearbox.

Checked a whole lot of other plugs but no joy. I'll check that #4 fuse again tomorrow.

[Eddieb]

My front brakes on the PD are crap. Yes I know they are all like that but these are crapper than usual.

The bike has a braided line installed
They struggle to hold pressure at the lever for an externded period of time, i.e over a week the amount of pressure will reduce.
Whenever I ride through a river they lose all pressure.

Ideas?

Is it master cylinder rebuild time?

[junkmanjoe]

i feel it may be the rubber cups, letting fluid passed under preasure, this would result in soft lever. but there is no wet areas on the capiler is this correct.

[BMWST?]

My front brakes on the PD are crap. Yes I know they are all like that but these are crapper than usual.

The bike has a braided line installed
They struggle to hold pressure at the lever for an externded period of time, i.e over a week the amount of pressure will reduce.
Whenever I ride through a river they lose all pressure.

Ideas?

Is it master cylinder rebuild time?

dont follow....do you mean by the end of the week you have to bleed them again?
they will always feel crap after a water crossing but they should return to pre river crossing performance after a decent drag or stop,and the disc/pads dry out.

[Eddieb]

dont follow....do you mean by the end of the week you have to bleed them again?
they will always feel crap after a water crossing but they should return to pre river crossing performance after a decent drag or stop,and the disc/pads dry out.

I haven't had any joy bleeding them. repeated use brings back some of the pressure so after a few km's i can only pull the lever back 1/3 - 1/2 way, but after sitting a few days the lever will go pretty much all the way back to the bar.

After rivers is not just water on the disc & pads, the whole system looses pressure.

[98tls]

A bit off topic but to do with a GS anyway,a mate of mine parked his late model one up on the side of the road to suffer the indignation of having it deliberatly run over by a group of guys in dads 4wd,happy to say that its back on the road better than ever,tough bloody things methinks.

[Eddieb]

So the R100 is going again. I was off work/working from home today as I have a cold and the boss didn't want me to give it to the rest of the office.

I went out for some throat lozenges and happened to stop at Repco on the way and picked up a new brake light bulb and some 15amp spade fuses. Change Fuse #4 out for a new one (Thanks PhPhil) and everything lights up and makes the appropriate noises, colours and flashes.

I still can't see anything wrong with the old fuse but obviously it's poked.

I also stopped at the battery shop and the guy gave me a pile of battery plugs so thats sorted also.

So the bikes still in bits as by then I felt too grotty to put it back together, but it works again.

Next on the list is replacing the driveshaft boot between the gearbox and paralever.

[Phreaky Phil]

So the R100 is going again. I was off work/working from home today as I have a cold and the boss didn't want me to give it to the rest of the office.

I went out for some throat lozenges and happened to stop at Repco on the way and picked up a new brake light bulb and some 15amp spade fuses. Change Fuse #4 out for a new one (Thanks PhPhil) and everything lights up and makes the appropriate noises, colours and flashes.

I still can't see anything wrong with the old fuse but obviously it's poked.

I also stopped at the battery shop and the guy gave me a pile of battery plugs so thats sorted also.

So the bikes still in bits as by then I felt too grotty to put it back together, but it works again.

Next on the list is replacing the driveshaft boot between the gearbox and paralever.
Glad to see your electrics are back to normal. Now for the fun bit, the boot. Allow plenty of time and take a "calm pill". Getting that boot to sit in place while you get the clamp on can be an exercise in frustration !! Until you figure out a knack that works for you.

[BMWST?]

I still can't see anything wrong with the old fuse but obviously it's poked.


i have a BMW car,and it must have 40 of those "horseshoe" fuses.They can be bad even though they look good.Check with a multimeter is the only way

[Phreaky Phil]

A couple of years ago I stripped my bike down to powdercoat the frame and tidy things up a bit. While I was at it I added a few frame strengthening bits. I studied the HPN bikes to see what they had done and then did my version. For the subframe, I studied threads on various web sites to see what broke and where and figured the right hand side has a weak spot where the vertical tube meets the horizontal one. So I added another tube below the bracing web which should make it much stronger. The left side I left alone as the muffler was in the way and it should brace it a bit anyway.

[NordieBoy]

A couple of years ago I stripped my bike down to powdercoat the frame and tidy things up a bit. While I was at it I added a few frame strengthening bits.

Nicely done too :niceone:

[short shins]

I've got one of those things :crazy:

I have done 3 CCA's, 2 Wild foods festivals (Hokitika) and 1 trip to Pukekohe to see No 34, New Plymouth for the Long track, Wanganui River road and the Turakina Valley

Still not sure if i like it.:confused:

[Eddieb]

I've got one of those things :crazy:

I have done 3 CCA's, 2 Wild foods festivals (Hokitika) and 1 trip to Pukekohe to see No 34, New Plymouth for the Long track, Wanganui River road and the Turakina Valley

Still not sure if i like it.:confused:

'ere, you're local to me.

You better get of your butt and join us on a few rides so you can see how good they can be. It doesn't sound like you've really taken it into it's best habitat yet.

And it'd be good to have another airhead out, I'm sick of being surounded by DR's and others with no taste :bleh:

[junkmanjoe]

looks like that other beemer might take you on eddie,
carefull your still king of the track, for monster bikes.

[Phreaky Phil]

Those of with Airheads will know what I mean. To far forward and self retracting. Almost impossible to put down while on the bike. We meet a couple who had ridden an Airhead out from England. They had a different sidestand so I took a few measurements and built my own. The one in the pics is the Evo 4 version.

[Eddieb]

I've got a PDF copy of an R80GS manual. If anyone wants a copy let me know

Does that cover any other models?

I'm guessing a lot of the info would be generic to paralever airheads?

If yes to either I wouldn't mind a copy.

[Eddieb]

Those of with Airheads will know what I mean. To far forward and self retracting. Almost impossible to put down while on the bike. We meet a couple who had ridden an Airhead out from England. They had a different sidestand so I took a few measurements and built my own. The one in the pics is the Evo 4 version.

I want.

Do they require welding onto the frame at the footpeg end?

How much?

Would they fit onto a G/S?

If so how much for 2?

[Eddieb]

Parked in a local bikepark. Monstrous tank, I think they are 45 litre. It looked it might have started life as a 100GS PD and had done a lot of hard miles.

Possibly a new import? The VIN plate was very shiny and new looking and didn't match the miles the rest of the bike looked like it had done.

[NordieBoy]

Parked in a local bikepark. Monstrous tank, I think they are 45 litre. It looked it might have started life as a 100GS PD and had done a lot of hard miles.

Possibly a new import? The VIN plate was very shiny and new looking and didn't match the miles the rest of the bike looked like it had done.

Also running a pair of 130dB horns :D

[Padmei]

Just guessing but you think owned by a pom?

HP2 tell me about them. They aren't making them anymore? Many sold in NZ? Approx price when new? Can you get parts? Anyone of KB got one?

[Eddieb]

Just guessing but you think owned by a pom?

HP2 tell me about them. They aren't making them anymore? Many sold in NZ? Approx price when new? Can you get parts? Anyone of KB got one?

Garry.W here in Welly has one. It seems to go well. And it's skinnier than my fast ass PD with a pannier on so I had to let him past when we were lane splitting this evening. He could go where I couldn't.

[Phreaky Phil]

I want.

Do they require welding onto the frame at the footpeg end?

How much?

Would they fit onto a G/S?

If so how much for 2?They dont require any welding, utilise one engine mount and the footpeg bolt. They will fit the G/S's. Unfotunately they are expensive to make as there is a lot of machining involved and last time I asked there was about $200 machining in each one, making total cost something like $350 all up. If there was enough being made the machining costs may be lower.

[Eddieb]

Airheads at the ISDE 6 days (http://www.historischesarchiv.bmw.de/1/webmill.php?id=158400&ditem=82963&lin=video&foldergroup=irc)

Guys riding them like they are little trailbikes.

[BMWST?]

Parked in a local bikepark. Monstrous tank, I think they are 45 litre. It looked it might have started life as a 100GS PD and had done a lot of hard miles.

Possibly a new import? The VIN plate was very shiny and new looking and didn't match the miles the rest of the bike looked like it had done.

is that front tyre on the right way?

[xwhatsit]

Airheads at the ISDE 6 days (http://www.historischesarchiv.bmw.de/1/webmill.php?id=158400&ditem=82963&lin=video&foldergroup=irc)

Guys riding them like they are little trailbikes.
Thanks, now I'm late for my 12pm lecture!

[Oscar]

One o' you airheads needs to buy Priestly's GS:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=209813837

It's a goodie:2thumbsup

[LISTERJAG]

They dont require any welding, utilise one engine mount and the footpeg bolt. They will fit the G/S's. Unfotunately they are expensive to make as there is a lot of machining involved and last time I asked there was about $200 machining in each one, making total cost something like $350 all up. If there was enough being made the machining costs may be lower.

I have one if anyone is interested, $200.

[BMWST?]

One o' you airheads needs to buy Priestly's GS:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=209813837

It's a goodie:2thumbsup

oops theres a problem ???

[Eddieb]

oops theres a problem ???

The classified ad has expired.

[Oscar]

The classified ad has expired.

I have his details if yer interested.

[BMWST?]

One o' you airheads needs to buy Priestly's GS:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=209813837

It's a goodie:2thumbsup

which one was that?Was that the tidy r80G/S?

[Eddieb]

which one was that?Was that the tidy r80G/S?

It was.

10 chars

[BMWST?]

i will be joining you guys soon...go easy on me

[Taz]

i will be joining you guys soon...go easy on me
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3312/3475875122_50c44851fc.jpg

Is that in your bedroom??:eek5:

[BMWST?]

Is that in your bedroom??:eek5:

ha ha no is actually a pic of the previuos owners set up...sorta basement space with a built up platform to bring the fllor level with the ground outside

[Padmei]

Where is that bike from? Nelson?

[BMWST?]

Raumati Sth,Kapiti

[Padmei]

Looks beautiful mate - you lucky bastard:niceone:

[BMWST?]

Looks beautiful mate - you lucky bastard:niceone:

far from perfect but its pretty complete and they arent that common(the PD i mean)

[Kokopelli]

far from perfect but its pretty complete and they arent that common(the PD i mean)

The red ones aren't, but there seem to be plenty with the gay colour schemes :laugh:

Good find, you'll love it.

[BMWST?]

The red ones aren't, but there seem to be plenty with the gay colour schemes :laugh:

Good find, you'll love it.

.......... the "rash" colour schemes

[Kokopelli]

.......... the "rash" colour schemes

For most of its life in English, the word's primary meaning was "joyful", "carefree", "bright and showy". from wikipedia :-)

[NordieBoy]

For most of its life in English, the word's primary meaning was "joyful", "carefree", "bright and showy". from wikipedia :-)

Sounds "gay" to me.


:msn-wink:

[Paladin]

i will be joining you guys soon...go easy on me


Hey wicked news! Glad you & Phil got it sorted mate! I'm seeing him tomorrow night so am sure he'll be pleased as punch the bike has gone to someone who's really into having a PD! Actually the white & red does look pretty damn good doesn't it! Now I just have to get Phil to buy a DR and get him out with us on some adv rides!!!!!!!!

:2thumbsup

[BMWST?]

Hey wicked news! Glad you & Phil got it sorted mate! I'm seeing him tomorrow night so am sure he'll be pleased as punch the bike has gone to someone who's really into having a PD! Actually the white & red does look pretty damn good doesn't it! Now I just have to get Phil to buy a DR and get him out with us on some adv rides!!!!!!!!

:2thumbsup
dont think you will get him of the MS!

[short shins]

My one is available.
I have not advertised it anywhere yet.
I want around 3k for it.
Look for the ad later or PM me.

Ideal base for a full restoration, or throw an Ohlins on the back, a DR 650 front end and you have a no nonsense air head adventure bike..

I'm selling it for the usual reasons… I can have a new bike if I sell one first, and I have come to the realisation (finally!) It’s a bit too tall for me and too many projects and a dwindling “Lawn mower fund”

[Eddieb]

So, the seal between the driveshaft and gearbox was split when I got the PD. The PO supplied a new seal with the bike but time has meant it hasn't been replaced yet, I've been riding with Duct tape over the split.

I've now started on the job and have the old seal off and the 4 bolts that attach the driveshaft to the gearbox, and yes I've got new bolts to put it back together with.

When i got it all apart I found some sort of oil in the bottom of the seal, probably half a teaspoon worth, and what appeared to be a small amount of grease on the inside of the driveshaft tunnel, yet I thought the shaft was dry.

How much trouble am I in? Is it bad enough to be concerned?

Eddie

[BMWST?]

So, the seal between the driveshaft and gearbox was split when I got the PD. The PO supplied a new seal with the bike but time has meant it hasn't been replaced yet, I've been riding with Duct tape over the split.

I've now started on the job and have the old seal off and the 4 bolts that attach the driveshaft to the gearbox, and yes I've got new bolts to put it back together with.

When i got it all apart I found some sort of oil in the bottom of the seal, probably half a teaspoon worth, and what appeared to be a small amount of grease on the inside of the driveshaft tunnel, yet I thought the shaft was dry.

How much trouble am I in? Is it bad enough to be concerned?

Eddie

ask Mike Dobson at Motorad...or if you want I will cos its a job i have to do on mine too.

[Kokopelli]

A tea spoon worth of oil in there can be considered almost normal, don't lose any sleep over it. If you had a split, it's probably got some water in it too, that's less desirable. Also, you can re-use these bolts at least once ,mine have been in and out a couple of times and I have now added a bit of locktite.

It might pay to check that the gearbox vent is clear. It's the hole in the screw that holds the earth cable and the speedometer cable to the gearbox.

My own clutch saga is not over yet. The clutch lever is quite hard to operate and can stick. It's a result of my previous stuff-up and means that I will have to replace the rear housing cover of the gearbox.

[Padmei]

If I may I'd like to interrupt this interesting thread & ask a question about the rear shock.

While watching Charlie & Ewan I was amazed by how many rear shocks they went thru in such a short time. The terrain at the time of them breaking didn't strike me as particularly hard core. I realise they were carrying a bit of weight but is it a common problem? I know that two aftermarket ohlins shocks went kaput as well as the BM one.

thanks
Nosey from Nelson

[Kokopelli]

They did go through some pretty tough terrain and were seriously overloaded in my opinion (what's acceptable on the road, will not necessarily work off-road). When the last straw breaks the camel's back it may not matter what the terrain is like at the time.

Although I don't own Oehlins shocks, I do consider them to be of excellent quality. I've got a WP shock on the R80GS (factory equipped) and have replaced the shocks on my R1150GS with Canandian Elka shocks.

I sure though, that you could break those as well, if you carried all that crap that those two guys did. Why should motorcyclists need to carry more than cyclists, who travel the same distances, do? Self inflicted if you ask me.

[Box'a'bits]

When I investigated this for my own trip through Africa (which didn't eventuate due to an accident prior to leaving) it became apparent that shock failure is an issue over that stretch. This is for OEM AND aftermarket. The corrugations effectively blow them apart. One of the recommended shocks at the time was the french Fournales airshock, apparently because it (strangely) was not as sensitive to the condition of the seals.

Overloading doesn't help (we were going to do that trip two up). Also the riders 'style' can be of some assistance. Note Charley doesn't have to replace his shock during the course of the trip.

The Silk Riders also got quite adept at changing shocks when they went through Africa.

Cheers

Steve

[Padmei]

So if all the planets aligned & I somehow managed to get to ride my dream trip thru Africa would it be prudent to carry a spare shock for another bike like KLR (or DR or XR etc etc) because it is almost inevitable it will happen?

I honestly thought they would have to be designed to be pretty bulletproof going on a bike of that calibre given the intended use for them (cue: snorts from the KTM camp)

The blokes on african odyssey only really had one mishap on their shittas - still they were packed pretty lite.

[Padmei]

Hey BMWRSNUT you've got the Katoom now- gotta do something with monilker bro:whistle:

[Box'a'bits]

Hey BMWRSNUT you've got the Katoom now- gotta do something with monilker bro:whistle:

The current moniker IS a bit of a mouthful, but still got an BMW R100RS, so still holds true (& a bunch of parts for another project bike).

Also,
1. How does one change a user name?;
2. Would you lose 'post' records? &;
3. How do you not confuse people that know you under one name, not another?

Shocks are pretty heavy. I would be more inclined to upgrade from the OEM to aftermarket - something that has a reputation for reliability, especially given the weight of a RTW bike is more than the 'standard' useage that the OEM has been set up for (remembering OEM is often budget constrained). Make sure that the shock is set up for the weight that the bike is supposed to be carrying for the trip. Then make sure you can get support for both the bike & shock if necessary.

Steve

[Eddieb]

So, the seal between the driveshaft and gearbox was split when I got the PD. The PO supplied a new seal with the bike but time has meant it hasn't been replaced yet, I've been riding with Duct tape over the split.

I've now started on the job and have the old seal off and the 4 bolts that attach the driveshaft to the gearbox, and yes I've got new bolts to put it back together with.

When i got it all apart I found some sort of oil in the bottom of the seal, probably half a teaspoon worth, and what appeared to be a small amount of grease on the inside of the driveshaft tunnel, yet I thought the shaft was dry.

How much trouble am I in? Is it bad enough to be concerned?

Eddie

Has anyone replaced a front driveshaft seal themselves? whats the secret to getting the driveshaft to move back enough to get the new seal in place? I have the bolts out, but can't get the shaft to move back more than 1 or 2mm. I've tried with the driveshaft at every angle and the every degree of rotation but no joy.

If I can't get this wrapped up easily I won't be able to take it on the South Island trip.

Plus. how do you get the starter motor off, I have removed the airbox but can't get anything around the starter's mounting bolts, it's just too tight.

[NordieBoy]

1. How does one change a user name?;
2. Would you lose 'post' records? &;
3. How do you not confuse people that know you under one name, not another?

Just ask a mod.

eg. BusaJim changed to Balrog no probs.
You don't lose anything. In that thing under your name just put "Formerly ......."

[Phreaky Phil]

Has anyone replaced a front driveshaft seal themselves? whats the secret to getting the driveshaft to move back enough to get the new seal in place? I have the bolts out, but can't get the shaft to move back more than 1 or 2mm. I've tried with the driveshaft at every angle and the every degree of rotation but no joy.

If I can't get this wrapped up easily I won't be able to take it on the South Island trip.

Plus. how do you get the starter motor off, I have removed the airbox but can't get anything around the starter's mounting bolts, it's just too tight.When i replaced the boot on mine i had the swingarm out. This isnt a major. Has a big locknut each side and an allen key bolt to preload the bearings. You just back off the locknut and unwind the allen head bolt each side and out she comes. I always find a teaspoon of oil in the bottom boot on mine even though the seals had been replaced. I just have to get my paranoid head around this being "normal". I seem to remember one of the starter bolts being a real pain in the arse. I think i used an open end spanner and could only move it in small increments. I think i replaced it with a cap screw.

[Eddieb]

Yeah it's all about the rider but at face value this is a pretty one sided competition. Supposedly the G/S rider is 17 and he backs it into at least one corner. At the start of the video the KTM is several corners ahead.

The ADV thread where I found it.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=462266

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[junkmanjoe]

took him on the inside and cut him off,,,,sweet.

[Box'a'bits]

Guarantee that the BM rider is young, bloody fit, but is hammered by the end of that ride. They're a beast to shift around. Good to watch though.

Steve

[BMWST?]

Guarantee that the BM rider is young, bloody fit, but is hammered by the end of that ride. They're a beast to shift around. Good to watch though.

Steve
i actually find the GS easy to chuck round....he must have a grip like iron to squeeze the brakes that hard though

[ahebron]

Good to see a local GS site/section.
Nice job Eddie and nice R80G/S.;)
Needs a few more oilheads though, or maybe we don't have trouble with our steeds like the airheads:whistle:


Adrian

[Box'a'bits]

i actually find the GS easy to chuck round....he must have a grip like iron to squeeze the brakes that hard though

Maybe upgraded brakes? Also, bet you would find the KTM a hell of a lot easier to toss around...

Finally, my comment comes from a background of an RS - stubby handlebars.

Steve

[Eddieb]

Good to see a local GS site/section.
Nice job Eddie and nice R80G/S.;)
Needs a few more oilheads though, or maybe we don't have trouble with our steeds like the airheads:whistle:


Adrian

Haha, you'd be a bit biased about MY G/S though. :whistle:

Speaking of bike troubles, rebuilt that dead gearbox yet?......... :Pokey:

Sorry, couldn't resist. :2thumbsup

[BMWST?]

Ok my PD came without a toolkit so I have to make one up.....
Shall i just get the stuff(or best i can) as listed on the parts at real oem or similar.Obviously the spanners and allen keys are no probs.For thr rear wheel nuts would a 17mm combo spanner do?,or should i see if i can get a wrench..i think the car ones may be the same
Gimme a list of what you guys carry.I aim to get a pump too and store it in the backbone

[ahebron]

Haha, you'd be a bit biased about MY G/S though. :whistle:

Speaking of bike troubles, rebuilt that dead gearbox yet?......... :Pokey:

Sorry, couldn't resist. :2thumbsup

How can my bike have a dead gearbox?
I don't get to ride the bloody thing:weep:

I did replace the clutch and grease the input shaft with some rocket science grease I got from the USA. I imported the clutch from James Sherlock in the UK. Bloody good price and service.

[ahebron]

Can we also post GS items for sale here or should we use the correct forum?

Adrian

[NordieBoy]

Can we also post GS items for sale here or should we use the correct forum?

Adrian

Put links to the correct forum in here.
Safest way.

[Eddieb]

I've seen lots of references to one of these but not explained as well, and not with a piccy

I might even have to build one myself.

http://moto.zoic.org/r100gs/redneck.html

This guy has also done lots of other stuff & upgrades to his bike and documented it on his site.

[GSers]

[QUOTE=Eddieb;1129211539]I've seen lots of references to one of these but not explained as well, and not with a piccy

I might even have to build one myself.

Similar to what I have on the wall in the shed I used auto transmission fluid RED and the hot glue gun to stick the tube to a piece of hardboard. Make it about 1.5 metres tall as oil is lighter than mercury so moves alot more therfore being more accurate.
Make sure you have some good fans to put in front of the bike while you are doing it to stop the header pipes glowing red. Not sure about the 100 but the 1100 you loosen the cable adjust the air bypass screws to get the idle sync and the adjust up the cable to get both throtle bodies even not only at idle but up through the rev range. EG 1500RPM 2500RPM and then for your cruising speed maybe around 4000RPM
Regards GSers

[Eddieb]

Well bugger.

Both bikes are now out of action.

The PD is in bits pending installation of a new front driveshaft boot, hopefully I can get that done this weekend. I also have new jets, jet needles & Ventura brackets but they all might have to wait till after the south island trip.

I wheeled the G/S out this morning to ride to work. Start her up and all's good. After 30 seconds she stalls but thats ok, it's cold out, she's still cold and the choke was off.
I hit the button again and she winds over happily but there's no firing, not from either cylinder, not a cough. The gas tank was filled up last night. I jiggle the wires, pull the plug caps and re attach but all to no avail. All the other electrics are working fine.

Eventually the battery went flat and it was off to the train station for me.

Bugger.

[ahebron]

Fuel taps?

[Underground]

I've seen lots of references to one of these but not explained as well, and not with a piccy

I might even have to build one myself.

http://moto.zoic.org/r100gs/redneck.html

This guy has also done lots of other stuff & upgrades to his bike and documented it on his site.

I made a carb ballancer just like the one in that link and it seems to work just fine, you dont need guages and numbers and shit because all you are doing is getting the levels even.
Good luck with your bike issues Eddie

[Eddieb]

So no progress today. With Paladin & BMWST?'s assistance I was going to take the whole diff off the PD and slide the driveshaft back to give room to get the new driveshaft boot on. However every tool selling shop in the land is out of stock of 12mm allen drivers to undo the Pivot housing stub in the inside of the paralever.

Is there any other way I can slide the driveshaft back without undoing the Pivot housing stub? will undoing the Pivot shaft only on the outside of the paralever housing give any movement?

Now the G/S

There's no spark getting to the plugs.
While checking it over this afternoon we opened, cleaned and reseated every connector I can find under the tank but no joy. Twice during the afternoon it had huge gunshot blast backfires when the killswitch or ignition was flicked on, other than that there has been no life. After one of the backfires it was puffing black smoke when turning over.

Any suggestions, has the dreaded diode board gone in the G/S?

Oh, and the PD tank looks pretty mean on the G/s

[Howie]

[QUOTE=Eddieb;1129214875]So no progress today. With Paladin & BMWST?'s assistance I was going to take the whole diff off the PD and slide the driveshaft back to give room to get the new driveshaft boot on. However every tool selling shop in the land is out of stock of 12mm allen drivers to undo the Pivot housing stub in the inside of the paralever.

Is there any other way I can slide the driveshaft back without undoing the Pivot housing stub? will undoing the Pivot shaft only on the outside of the paralever housing give any movement?


Eddie, do you want an Allen key or one of the ones that fit onto your socket set? I have a 12mm Allen key that you could borrow, oo worse case scenario is cut it and fit a socket onto it, if you want.

Cheers

Paul.

[Box'a'bits]

So no progress today. With Paladin & BMWST?'s assistance I was going to take the whole diff off the PD and slide the driveshaft back to give room to get the new driveshaft boot on. However every tool selling shop in the land is out of stock of 12mm allen drivers to undo the Pivot housing stub in the inside of the paralever.

Is there any other way I can slide the driveshaft back without undoing the Pivot housing stub? will undoing the Pivot shaft only on the outside of the paralever housing give any movement?


I have a 12 mm allen socket. Give me a call.

Seriously doubt that the problem with the G/S is the diode board. That would result in charging issues, but doesn't have an impact on the ignition.

Cheers, Steve

[Kokopelli]

Eddie, it's much easier to just remove the swing arm. It will only take a few minutes. Just make sure that you tie the main stand to the crash bars, so you don't accidentally push the bike off the stand.

I think you'll undo the same amount of screws with either method.

You will need a torque wrench and you'll have to centre the swingarm afterwards to within .5mm. It's not hard. I 've done it by myself three times now. You'll need a 27mm socket.

The big plus is that you won't have to align the splines on the diff side, or heat up the pivot bearing to soften the Loctite.

Hope this helps.

[Eddieb]

I pulled the coil off the G/S last night. Can't see any cracks in it but did find this.....

??

[GSers]

I pulled the coil off the G/S last night. Can't see any cracks in it but did find this.....

??

Thats note a good look looks like its arcing through there from what I can see from the photo is it worth fitting the one off the 100 to see if that gets it going.
GSers

[Eddieb]

Thanks to Andy Mac The PD is on the road again. An extra pair of hands is definately what is required. I'm sure Andy won't be voluntering to do up any of those little clamps again.

Haven't even looked at the G/S yet. That will have to wait a few weeks.

[Box'a'bits]

Good to hear. So what way did you go - swing arm pivots or drop out the drive shaft?

Steve

[Eddieb]

Swing Arm pivots. seemed like an easier option overall.

Tell you what, even as tight as I am if it needs doing again it's going to a shop.

[BMWST?]

Good to hear Eddie,so my carbs and boot next weekend hehehe.I am gonna have a look at the carbs i think and maybe get a complete rebuild kit

[Kokopelli]

I did my carbs a year ago. Got the kit from the BING agent in the US. The bikes fuel consumption had been going through the roof, but now it's back from 8 litres/100km to just under 6 litres. There is lots of good info on Advrider. It's a good jobfor a rainy day.

Have a good look at the springs as well. Mine had been rubbing and one fell apart in my hands. The worst bit is the carb cleaner, that's evil stuff.

I actually like workinng on the airhead, it's a mechano set for big boys :-).

[BMWST?]

I did my carbs a year ago. Got the kit from the BING agent in the US. The bikes fuel consumption had been going through the roof, but now it's back from 8 litres/100km to just under 6 litres. There is lots of good info on Advrider. It's a good jobfor a rainy day.

Have a good look at the springs as well. Mine had been rubbing and one fell apart in my hands. The worst bit is the carb cleaner, that's evil stuff.

I actually like workinng on the airhead, it's a mechano set for big boys :-).


eddie tells me my PD is running rich,it runs poorly on very small throttle openings,starts readily,doesnt like the fast idle lever,and although it wasnt a completely full tank was only 360 km to reserve last time.How much was the kit and do you have choices for jets needles etc.(not that i know what to choose) I am going to follow infra's thread at ADV.My bike has done about 117 ks.

[Eddieb]

eddie tells me my PD is running rich,it runs poorly on very small throttle openings,starts readily,doesnt like the fast idle lever,and although it wasnt a completely full tank was only 360 km to reserve last time.How much was the kit and do you have choices for jets needles etc.(not that i know what to choose) I am going to follow infra's thread at ADV.My bike has done about 117 ks.

Rich is an understatement, the pipe is so wet it's almost dripping, Yet the economy it's returning is as good as my PD which appears according to the pipe & spark plug condition along with throttle response to be running sweet.

[Kokopelli]

Unfortunately I don't remember the cost of the unit. It will be more expensive anyway, due to different exchange rate. Here is the link http://bingcarburetor.com/bmw/bmwcvkits.html

Send them an email, you'll get a prompt reply. When I changed computers in January I didn't transfer all my old email records.

I pretty much changed everything apart from the floats, which still looked good. My needle showed a lot of wear, so that could have been the cause. Carbs are still a mystery to me, but they weren't difficult to rebuilt.

I wrote this at the time, for what it's worth http://forum.bmwor.org.nz/index.php/topic,1222.0.html

I would stick to the stock set up with needles and jets. They'll want to know the number on your carbs, to ensure they'll send you the correct kit.

[Eddieb]

Unfortunately I don't remember the cost of the unit. It will be more expensive anyway, due to different exchange rate. Here is the link http://bingcarburetor.com/bmw/bmwcvkits.html

Send them an email, you'll get a prompt reply. When I changed computers in January I didn't transfer all my old email records.

I pretty much changed everything apart from the floats, which still looked good. My needle showed a lot of wear, so that could have been the cause. Carbs are still a mystery to me, but they weren't difficult to rebuilt.

I wrote this at the time, for what it's worth http://forum.bmwor.org.nz/index.php/topic,1222.0.html

I would stick to the stock set up with needles and jets. They'll want to know the number on your carbs, to ensure they'll send you the correct kit.

Hi Alex,

How did you get the needle jet out?

Everything i read indicates once you remove the main jet and the needle jet holder it should just fall out, however neither of mine do.

Am I missing something I need to do?

I have new needles & needle jets waiting to go in.

[BMWST?]

Hi Alex,

How did you get the needle jet out?


I have new needles & needle jets waiting to go in.

see this thread eddie he does everything step by step with pics

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=431153

[Kokopelli]

All the parts on my carb came apart quite easily, plus I sometimes think I have the early stages of altzheimers :-). Maybe you can soaking the parts in carb cleaner will help.

I'll mail you an exploded diagram

[Eddieb]

All the parts on my carb came apart quite easily, plus I sometimes think I have the early stages of altzheimers :-). Maybe you can soaking the parts in carb cleaner will help.

I'll mail you an exploded diagram

Thanks Alex, I saw your email.

I have an exploded diagram, it's just that my needle jet didn't just drop out like every one says it should. Maybe it needs some encouragement.

[Eddieb]

Thanks very much also to Howie for the offer of tools, BMWRSNUT for lending me a few of his, Paladin & BMWST? for coming round saturday and putting up with me while I was grossly disorganised, and Andy Mac for coming over Sunday and not getting grumpy at frustratingly tiny little screws in tiny cramped spaces that don't line up.

[Taz]

Sounds like a grammy acceptance speech.......:mellow:

[Padmei]

Had a ride on Eddie B's Air head & Balrogs 1150 over the weekend & loved them. Def would have an old gs in the shed if I won lotto. I loved the sideways movement of the bike when starting & the low stable feeling of them.

Maybe I'll have to get Topo to let me borrow one of his:devil2:

[JATZ]

Had a ride on Eddie B's Air head & Balrogs 1150 over the weekend & loved them. Def would have an old gs in the shed if I won lotto. I loved the sideways movement of the bike when starting & the low stable feeling of them.

Maybe I'll have to get Topo to let me borrow one of his:devil2:

Only if you can catch him, or his old man on it, the old boy went past me like I was standing still, on the way down to Anatori, he can really ride.

[topo]

i gave up trying to pass the old bugger when the gravel started hitting me at 120-30-40.............:wacko:

[NordieBoy]

Jatz isnt all that old.

[Eddieb]

R100GS on trade me

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-221551788.htm

[Padmei]

Aahh the old bumblebee:niceone:

Wish I bought a lotto ticket tonite.

[Eddieb]

Aahh the old bumblebee:niceone:

Wish I bought a lotto ticket tonite.

You know you want to.

[Padmei]

He's not giving away much info is he.I don't think he really wants to sell it but is made to.

BTW Eddie I was thinking your gs would look cool with some german markings like it was straight out of WWII. It kinda reminds me of something used for the desert warfare. Was Rommel a pom or nazi?

[Eddieb]

He's not giving away much info is he.I don't think he really wants to sell it but is made to.

BTW Eddie I was thinking your gs would look cool with some german markings like it was straight out of WWII. It kinda reminds me of something used for the desert warfare. Was Rommel a pom or nazi?

We're already on that. the Afrika Korps logo with some suitable changes would suit we reckon.

[BMWST?]

do some research and use some markings from the WWII sidecar units....Surely the bumblebee has done 126000 ks?

[BASS-TREBLE]

I don't want to hijack this thread,

Im interested in an R100 airhead, preferably a GS.
Budget is at around $3500

PM me.
B-T

[Oscar]

We're already on that. the Afrika Korps logo with some suitable changes would suit we reckon.

Like this one?

http://oscar.smugmug.com/photos/339591670_Mi9HJ-M.jpg

[xwhatsit]

Afrika Korps ADV-tanking:

<img src="http://www.totalleh.com/beta329.gif" />

[Kokopelli]

Was Rommel a pom or nazi?

Rommel was an interesting character, do a search. He was in charge of the "Panzergruppe Afrika" and later became Fieldmarshall. He was initially quite close to Hitler who liked his reputation as a soldier. He was later accused of participating in an attempt on Hitler's life and committed suicide in the presence of two Generals who came for him. Rommel was a very popular commander, so the incident was downplayed and he received a state funeral. His son later became mayor of Stuttgart.

In short, no he wasn't a POM. The jury is still out on how much of a Nazi he was. Probably more a misguided soldier, but who knows.

[Padmei]

Oh Eddie I am so waiting.... COme on lets make this a photoshop challenge:clap:

[junkmanjoe]

ive been working on a desgin for eddie.
we not sure how big to make it or where to put it on his bike.

[Box'a'bits]

R100GS on trade me

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-221551788.htm

From what he's saying it's very low mileage. I want...:clap: A Bumblebee. Most desireable (from my perspective), but I will struggle getting it past the treasurer... I suspect the discussion would go - you can have it IF you sell the RS OR KTM first

Steve

[Eddieb]

I picked up a new sidestand spring the other day so have just fitted that tonight. Seeing as I've left a spring on each island so far this year I've tried cable tying it on this time in case it gets knocked off. The springs are fairly solid but one end is just looped round a stay off the stand so I suspect they are just shaking off rather than breaking.

I've also just fitted a set of E-Z Pull Throttle Springs for BMW Airheads (http://www.canbeseen.com/10) on the PD, also found at http://bmwthrottlesprings.com/. Same guy different site.

$12US for 2 little springs, inc international shipping. It may seem a little steep for 2 little springs but they are supposed to 'reduce throttle opening effort by 25-40% , and fully close for a proper idle.'. The BMW throttle is a bit heavier than most bikes so we'll see if they have made any noticable improvement, not that I consider the PD bad by any means. The G/S however wll give you a right arm like Arnie.

The guys on advrider rave about them so it's a cheap upgrade that may or may not bear results and it hasn't cost a lot to take the risk.

I can say very good service from the guy. It took just 3 days for delivery from California via United States Postal Service First Class delivery once the PayPal payment went through.

[ahebron]

The G/S however wll give you a right arm like Arnie.



I know why that is:innocent:
The previous owner changed the bars to some after market bars and just turned the bar end down till the throttle fitted. Might be some galling or grit in there. The DPO also being rather large in stature never had a problem with it. A few owners back the bike was partly converted into a more road oreintated bike and had bars with a slight drop in them which the DPO bought the bike with.

Adrian

[BMWST?]

somebody wants that bumblebee.....bid was 4400,somebody jumped in w a 5000 bid!

[Eddieb]

somebody wants that bumblebee.....bid was 4400,somebody jumped in w a 5000 bid!

I'm going to put an order into Motohansa (http://www.motohansa.com.au) in Aus shortly, let me know if you want to piggy back off the same order if there's anything you need.

And before anyone starts harping on about supporting local business, I would if there was one that supplied what I am after. But BMW don't see fit to have a dealership with 550km's of my location and aftermarket dealers don't seem to have what I need.

Whats the fucks up BMW?

[BMWST?]

whats ya getting?I want a rear seat lock .Motorad will get parts.

No. Description Supplement Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes
02 Steering lock 1 51251243274 +core
03 DUAL SEAT LOCK 1 51251242378 +core
04 IGNITION/LIGHT SWITCH 1 51251233276 +core
05 Steering lock CODE 1 51251243499 +core
06 DUAL SEAT LOCK WITH CODE 1 51251242327 +core
07 IGNITION/LIGHT SWITCH CODE 1 51251243501 +core

my bike has the rail that has the seat lock(10) but it doesnt have the rail round the back of the seat....item 6.Does one replace the other?

[Eddieb]

whats ya getting?I want a rear seat lock .Motorad will get parts.

No. Description Supplement Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes
02 Steering lock 1 51251243274 +core
03 DUAL SEAT LOCK 1 51251242378 +core
04 IGNITION/LIGHT SWITCH 1 51251233276 +core
05 Steering lock CODE 1 51251243499 +core
06 DUAL SEAT LOCK WITH CODE 1 51251242327 +core
07 IGNITION/LIGHT SWITCH CODE 1 51251243501 +core

my bike has the rail that has the seat lock(10) but it doesnt have the rail round the back of the seat....item 6.Does one replace the other?

There should be both, though I don't think you need the rail. As far as I can tell it's just a grab rail for a pillion.

I'm getting a list of bits. Allen head carb screws, brake resevoir screws, pushrod seals, 90 degree tyre valve adapter, front and rear brake pads plus more.

[Box'a'bits]

And before anyone starts harping on about supporting local business, I would if there was one that supplied what I am after. But BMW don't see fit to have a dealership with 550km's of my location and aftermarket dealers don't seem to have what I need.

Whats the fucks up BMW?

Motorad is still an accreditted repair workshop & can supply BMW bits.

I think Garry W was talking about negotiations going behind the scenes to remedy the issues you raise. At least part of the issue is that BMW insist on a certain level of fitout for the dealerships, and want a 'single brand' dealership, whereas most dealers are branching into multiple franshises, to escape from the influence of single franchise decisions on their bottom line.

Finally, it doesn't help that the BMW master franchise is now offshore...

Steve

[Eddieb]

Motorad is still an accreditted repair workshop & can supply BMW bits.

I think Garry W was talking about negotiations going behind the scenes to remedy the issues you raise. At least part of the issue is that BMW insist on a certain level of fitout for the dealerships, and want a 'single brand' dealership, whereas most dealers are branching into multiple franshises, to escape from the influence of single franchise decisions on their bottom line.

Finally, it doesn't help that the BMW master franchise is now offshore...

Steve

They certainly don't advertise about still being a BMW accredited workshop. First I knew that and I've been in-store twice in the last 3 weeks. I go in there for odds and sods but anything more than bolts or a spring I ring Hamilton.

Unfortunately it would have to be a good store for me to revert back locally now. The damage has bene done and I have now built an extremely good relationship and get exceptional service out of Hamilton Motorcycle Centre.

Although Wellington isn't NZ's biggest city it is it's capital. I find it amazing that there isn't a full dealer here.

[Box'a'bits]

somebody wants that bumblebee.....bid was 4400,somebody jumped in w a 5000 bid!

Its worth that & a bit more if its really that low mileage & is still in good condition.


They certainly don't advertise about still being a BMW accredited workshop. First I knew that and I've been in-store twice in the last 3 weeks.

BMW pulled the franchise when Motorad went to Triumph, one of their bigger competitors. BMW really did themselves no favours in terms of the way they did business there. Motorad did more Triumph business in a couple of months than they did in a similar period of years for BMW.

Given that history, why would Motorad exert themselves for BMW?

I've always had good service from Motorad. Mike Dobson is still THE Guru on all things airhead.

But have to say I import most spares from the UK, simply because its generally cheaper & often easier.

[BMWST?]

Mike Dodson is still THE Guru on all things airhead.



Dobson :spanking:

[Box'a'bits]

Dobson :spanking:

That's what I said.:innocent:..Trouble with db's?

[Taz]

Mmmmm DB.... Lets turn this into a beer thread.

[Kokopelli]

I find Neil @ experience very helpful. He knows his bikes and he can get the parts in very quickly. Often the convenience outweighs the extra cost. If you only need a few bits, freight costs would kill that anyway.

[Taz]

I find that owning an 1100GS ya just don't need bits......

[Kokopelli]

I find that owning an 1100GS ya just don't need bits......

True, but once you start riding it daily and have it for well over 100000km and service it yourself, you might need a few bits.

Anyway, I was referring to the R80GS, I broke an indicator stalk on the 42nd, replaced the bush in the shift lever and the rubber sleeve on the shifter, which somehow disappeared.

[Taz]

It's already got 122000 kms on it and it gets used. Do all my own servicing. Great bike for the 1000 miler and makes a great sports bike also. The one bike I couldn't part with. The mechanic at experience said the 1100 is the most reliable of the lot. I've only had to replace pivot bearings after my 7000km south island trip. Think all the gravel and 4WD tracks were a bit hard on the pivot :). They were $53 each and exclusive to BMW.

[Kokopelli]

It's already got 122000 kms on it and it gets used. Do all my own servicing. Great bike for the 1000 miler and makes a great sports bike also. The one bike I couldn't part with. The mechanic at experience said the 1100 is the most reliable of the lot. I've only had to replace pivot bearings after my 7000km south island trip. Think all the gravel and 4WD tracks were a bit hard on the pivot :). They were $53 each and exclusive to BMW.

I've been through a couple of pivot bearings. You can replace these with bronze bushes, I'll do that next time. Mine get's the occasional work out, but less since I've bought the R80 a couple of years ago.

On top of the Old Man Range, 1.5 years ago. Shit happens, but the bike was not damaged.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b292/Garry393/BMWOR%20Annual%20Rally%202008/KIF_1180.jpg

[Taz]

:clap::clap:Love it Koko :niceone: Need to get a bit more air if you're going to complete the backflip.

[Eddieb]

I've seen lots of references to one of these but not explained as well, and not with a piccy

I might even have to build one myself.

http://moto.zoic.org/r100gs/redneck.html

This guy has also done lots of other stuff & upgrades to his bike and documented it on his site.

Bloody called out for work again. Fortunately I can do it from home but it's still a pain as I had things I wanted to do.

Anyway, managed to knock this up between phone calls, now I just have to put the oil in it.

[BMWST?]

I've been through a couple of pivot bearings. You can replace these with bronze bushes, I'll do that next time. Mine get's the occasional work out, but less since I've bought the R80 a couple of years ago.

On top of the Old Man Range, 1.5 years ago. Shit happens, but the bike was not damaged.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b292/Garry393/BMWOR%20Annual%20Rally%202008/KIF_1180.jpg

surely a mirror and the screen!?

[Kokopelli]

surely a mirror and the screen!?

Nope, minor scuffs on the screen, but I've still good mud residue under the rev-counter.

It was still running, struggled to find the kill switch before I realized it was on the other side :-).

There were quite a few bog holes up there, but we tried to stick to the track as much as possible.

That yellow GS is Aslan's bike. These things are built like a tank, so that's the price you pay.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/Berwyn/DSC05827.jpg

The mirrors and screen are fine.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/Berwyn/South%20Island%202008/DSC05839.jpg

[Eddieb]

I pulled the coil off the G/S last night. Can't see any cracks in it but did find this.....

??

Well, I just spent time in the garage changing coils over to see if that was the issue, and it isn't.

Put the PD coil in the G/S. Turns over fine but no spark, same behavior as before.
Put the G/S coil in the PD. It runs.

While I had the PD coil off I did notice it didn't seem to have been making good contact on the right cylinder. The inside of the coil connector had quite a buildup of green on the copper.
I cleaned it up best I could with what was to hand, which wasn't much, and buffed up the contact on both cables with a bit of mild sandpaper plus spread the contacts a bit. Will have to wait and see if it makes any difference.

So all you experts, whats next? Is there another step I can easily test or is it off to a professional?

[BMWST?]

is the coil getting a)voltage and b)pulses from points?Does the r 80 run points or is it the same system as the PD

[Box'a'bits]

Well, I just spent time in the garage changing coils over to see if that was the issue, and it isn't.

Put the PD coil in the G/S. Turns over fine but no spark, same behavior as before.
Put the G/S coil in the PD. It runs.

While I had the PD coil off I did notice it didn't seem to have been making good contact on the right cylinder. The inside of the coil connector had quite a buildup of green on the copper.
I cleaned it up best I could with what was to hand, which wasn't much, and buffed up the contact on both cables with a bit of mild sandpaper plus spread the contacts a bit. Will have to wait and see if it makes any difference.

So all you experts, whats next? Is there another step I can easily test or is it off to a professional?

What are your earths like. Check the battery terminal, & the earth that the other end of the cable runs to. Also check where the coil is earthing to.
What condition is the battery in? Sometimes there is enough charge to spin the starter, but not fire the ignition. Try pulling the Electronic Ignition off (on top frame tube) & heat sink 'paste' the heat sink (don't think that this will be the issue, but may be one of a couple of neglected areas).
Have you swapped over the EI from the PD?
You have an advantage of being able to swap components between two bikes. I think the ignition systems are basically the same. Failing all else, I'm come over & tamper with things next weekend.

Steve

[Eddieb]

is the coil getting a)voltage and b)pulses from points?Does the r 80 run points or is it the same system as the PD

No f'ing idea. I've about exhausted my electical knowledge. I could probably test voltage to the coil once I figure out what voltage it's suppoed to have, to a) not blow up my multimeter by having it on the wrong setting, B) have some idea of what the correct reading is so I know whether what I am seeing is correct or not.

[BMWST?]

all i jknow is you should be getting 12v to the coil on the "input side"That 12v is interupted by the ign system which triggers the output side of the coil to give the big spark voltage....:(

[BMWST?]

R100GS on trade me

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-221551788.htm

it went for 7860 in the end,prolly ok considering its mileage and condition

[Eddieb]

it went for 7860 in the end,prolly ok considering its mileage and condition

Thats pretty good money, it looked pretty tidy but wasn't exactly a late model bike.

I went down to the garage today and played with the G/S a bit more. Put the coil back in and tried some experiements suggested on advrider.

No joy getting it started but I noticed when I switch the key off there's spark. Just in case it was a random event I tested it a few times and every time the key is switched off the plugs spark.

I'm guessing then that the coils and everything are fine, but it's the trigger or something related to it thats bung.

That requires removing the front cover for futher investigation. Something that requires more time and space than I currently have.

[Kokopelli]

it went for 7860 in the end,prolly ok considering its mileage and condition

The guy was asked about leaks and said that there weren't any. I can't see that lasting once the bike is being run.

Bikes that have been kept as ornaments tend not to do to well in the long run. Cosmetics won't get you home, or something like that....

[BMWST?]

The guy was asked about leaks and said that there weren't any. I can't see that lasting once the bike is being run.

Bikes that have been kept as ornaments tend not to do to well in the long run. Cosmetics won't get you home, or something like that....

my one should be a goody then:niceone:

[marks]

Thats pretty good money, it looked pretty tidy but wasn't exactly a late model bike.

I went down to the garage today and played with the G/S a bit more. Put the coil back in and tried some experiements suggested on advrider.

No joy getting it started but I noticed when I switch the key off there's spark. Just in case it was a random event I tested it a few times and every time the key is switched off the plugs spark.

I'm guessing then that the coils and everything are fine, but it's the trigger or something related to it thats bung.

That requires removing the front cover for futher investigation. Something that requires more time and space than I currently have.

are you able to switch the key on and of 3-4000 times a second?

[xwhatsit]

No joy getting it started but I noticed when I switch the key off there's spark. Just in case it was a random event I tested it a few times and every time the key is switched off the plugs spark.

I'm guessing then that the coils and everything are fine, but it's the trigger or something related to it thats bung.

That requires removing the front cover for futher investigation. Something that requires more time and space than I currently have.
What the. That's weird. Do you think it's simply a bung ignition switch then? I've had a couple of Honda switches fail on me (don't know how the Bimmer switches stack up) and they cause really strange intermittent problems that cause one to tear their hair out.

If you haven't already checked it... try checking it, but with a test light so you're putting some wattage through it.

Apologies if you've already been there.



Near $8k... fookin' bananas.

[_Shrek_]

Thats pretty good money, it looked pretty tidy but wasn't exactly a late model bike.

I went down to the garage today and played with the G/S a bit more. Put the coil back in and tried some experiements suggested on advrider.

No joy getting it started but I noticed when I switch the key off there's spark. Just in case it was a random event I tested it a few times and every time the key is switched off the plugs spark.

I'm guessing then that the coils and everything are fine, but it's the trigger or something related to it thats bung.

That requires removing the front cover for futher investigation. Something that requires more time and space than I currently have.



Eddieb I have a new ignition switch with key for the 1150Gs if you want to borrow it to see if that fix's the prob

[Eddieb]

Eddieb I have a new ignition switch with key for the 1150Gs if you want to borrow it to see if that fix's the prob

Thanks for the offer. At this stage I've no reason to suspect the ignition switch, everything else running of it works great.

[BMWST?]

i reckon its the "trigger" for the coils.When you turn the key off you are emulating the "opening of the points".I think that means the hall sensor is toast,but i dont know enough about the boxers to say that is the ecu or in the "beancan" under the timing cover

[Eddieb]

i reckon its the "trigger" for the coils.When you turn the key off you are emulating the "opening of the points".I think that means the hall sensor is toast,but i dont know enough about the boxers to say that is the ecu or in the "beancan" under the timing cover

Thats what I am thinking. I have a 'how to' doc from GSers to establish whether thats it or not. It's under the timing cover.

[Eddieb]

Another R100GS PD on Trade Me. This one's REAL nice.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-224417000.htm

[igor]

Another R100GS PD on Trade Me. This one's REAL nice.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-224417000.htm

i like this 1 but i am biased. its for sale.

2 owners - ohlins - heaps of bits - rear sub frame and bits all power-coated- what ya see is what ya get

got me home every time for the last 11 years and I ant given it away. Look at the shit it has. Don't really care if it sells or not but make me a decent offer and ya could own it. and no ya cant but the good bits individually

and yes it is dirty. why clean it if it is only gunna get dirty again. It does what it is made for

[Eddieb]

You don't have any designs to enable a reproduction of that sidestand?

[igor]

You don't have any designs to enable a reproduction of that sidestand?

yeah. contact phreakyphil. its one of his

ya can have it if ya buy the bike

[Eddieb]

yeah. contact phreakyphil. its one of his

ya can have it if ya buy the bike

Much as I'd like to 3 GS's in the garage would be getting a bit much.

[junkmanjoe]

i like this BMW

the riders ok as well i guess.....:shifty:

[igor]

Much as I'd like to 3 GS's in the garage would be getting a bit much.

and mine has the front brake mod as well. Calipher is off many Suzukis, Yahaha. just go and find a EBC brake pad book and see what fits a EBC FA145 brake pad. and yes ya need a left one.

and here is pdf pic of mounting bracket.

better than taking ya hands off handlebars and cupping them which is better than a GS front brake

[igormortis]

Thats what I am thinking. I have a 'how to' doc from GSers to establish whether thats it or not. It's under the timing cover.

Hi Eddie,

What BMWST said sounds on the money. My R80 would do the same thing, ie. the coil would build up charge but not spark when cranking. Flicking the kill switch would discharge the coil and produce a spark.

It turned out the connector from the hall sensor (the so-called beancan) was corroded. I cleaned it up and now it works fine. Your G/S should have the hall sensor rather than points, BTW. Unless points have been retrofitted.

So you should be able to swap out the one from your PD to test it. Unless you're not comfortable with messing with both bikes' electrics at once - as I've seen on advrider: "Here be Dragons!"

Anyhow - I have a spare "beancan" you could borrow in order to rule yours out. Let me know, I'd be happy to ride out and drop it off sometime.

[igormortis]

i like this 1 but i am biased. its for sale.

I like your username, but I am biased. I would've taken it if you hadn't already!

And I'd make you an offer on that bike if I could scare up the cash - very nice!

[Eddieb]

i like this 1 but i am biased. its for sale.

2 owners - ohlins - heaps of bits - rear sub frame and bits all power-coated- what ya see is what ya get

got me home every time for the last 11 years and I ant given it away. Look at the shit it has. Don't really care if it sells or not but make me a decent offer and ya could own it. and no ya cant but the good bits individually

and yes it is dirty. why clean it if it is only gunna get dirty again. It does what it is made for


Swap ya a G/S for it ;)

[Eddieb]

i like this BMW

the riders ok as well i guess.....:shifty:

Aw shucks Joe....:love: :whistle:

[junkmanjoe]

dont love you any more,:no:
you wont let me ride it....:bleh:

got your other bike fixed yet.

[Eddieb]

dont love you any more,:no:
you wont let me ride it....:bleh:

got your other bike fixed yet.

I'm having too much fun riding it myself and the only thing you had to offer for a swap was a DR650. Seeing as I've already crashed that it wasn't such a great swap offer, i need something new to crash ;) It it had been a 950 adventure, hmmmm.

Nope, other bike won't get looked at again for another month as I'm busy till then.

I was riding to work this morning and a guy pulled up beside me on a black R1150GS. he points down to the PD and gives me a huge thumbs up before dropping in behind me again. It gets all sorts of looks and comments this bike, everyone seems to like it.

I've also lined up a brake caliper to do the brake upgrade. Now I just need to get the little adapter plate, either from someone who has some spare, or I have a mate in hamilton that might be be able to make one up cheap.

[junkmanjoe]

sure he wasnt pointing to your ass.....:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

[Squiggles]

WP Rear Shock (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Suspension/auction-224804224.htm)

[Aslan]

useful site here http://www.ukgser.com/forums/ for GS aficionados - enjoy :wari:

[Eddieb]

Out with the old and in with the new. 4 pots of Nissin stopping goodness.

I haven't ridden it yet to see if it's any better. I fitted up the caliper tonight and we have half bled the system, will carry on tomorrow.

Crap cable routing round the outside of the fork leg is due to the banjo not having enough of a bend to clear parts of the caliper. A new banjo will be fitted to allow the cable to pass round the inside of the fork leg when I return to Wellington.

[Waihou Thumper]

4 pots of Nissan stopping goodness.



To Nissin Eddie, otherwise we might think it is a Japanese Import mate...:done:Mind you, there is nothing wrong with Nissans is there....:innocent:
It looks good, bet you will be able to run on full tanks and stop on a penny with those pot calipers!

I took the Husaberg Brembos off and gave everything a spruce up. It is amazing how clean you can get everything when it is off the bike and on a bench. They will not fit onto the KTM as they are a little short but I have extra now for the other bike.
Got the engine out yesterday, it is now on the floor covered with a blanket, still unsure as what to do...OR what is wrong...
Got plenty of time to think about it as I don't have the dosh to fix it...

[igor]

Out with the old and in with the new. 4 pots of Nissan stopping goodness.

I haven't ridden it yet to see if it's any better. I fitted up the caliper tonight and we have half bled the system, will carry on tomorrow.

Crap cable routing round the outside of the fork leg is due to the banjo not having enough of a bend to clear parts of the caliper. A new banjo will be fitted to allow the cable to pass round the inside of the fork leg when I return to Wellington.

where did u get calipher and how much. Have a friend who as been looking for 1.

who made the adapter, was that from the pdf pic i posted

[Eddieb]

where did u get calipher and how much. Have a friend who as been looking for 1.

who made the adapter, was that from the pdf pic i posted

I got the caliper off trademe, search for RF900 and there's a guy in Chch wrecking 3 or 4 of them. $80 + freight of $5.50 he charged me. He leaves the caliper bolts, banjo bolt and pads in too. I struck it lucky with the pads and the set in my caliper are virtually brand new but thats luck of the draw.

You will need at least one M10 Hex head metric fine thread (1.25 thread?) High tensile(sp) bolt in addition to what comes with the caliper. 2 bolts if you want both caliper bolts to match but you can make do with one. The BMW bolts are a coarser thread so are not usable on the conversion, 1.5 thread I think.

Adapter was made by F1 Engineering in Hamilton. Yes it was made from the pdf you posted, thanks heaps. $70 and 24 hour turnaround. He offered to do a 2nd for $40-$50 but I didn't know anyone else was looking so didn't take him up.

For the Banjo I think you'd need at least a 45 degree angled one, but thats something I still need to check out and you do need at least a couple of cm free play in your cable at full fork extension as the Nissin Caliper banjo mount is a bit further forward than the BMW Brembo one. I had to re route my cable a bit to free up some length.

[igor]

I got the caliper off trademe, search for RF900 and there's a guy in Chch wrecking 3 or 4 of them. $80 + freight of $5.50 he charged me. He leaves the caliper bolts, banjo bolt and pads in too. I struck it lucky with the pads and the set in my caliper are virtually brand new but thats luck of the draw.

You will need at least one M10 Hex head metric fine thread (1.25?) (High tensile(sp) ) bolt in addition to what comes with the caliper. 2 bolts if you want both caliper bolts to match but you can make do with one.

Adapter was made by F1 Engineering in Hamilton. Yes it was made from the pdf you posted thanks. $70 and 24 hour turnaround.

thanks I have forwarded you post to him. a bike wrecka up this way wanted $150 for a calipher with no pads etc. i declined his kind offer

[BMWST?]

was following a BMW car tonight with (i presume HIDs) made me realise my headlight is pretty poor.Aoert from a plus 50 or plus 90 upgrade to the H4,some cleaning and erhas direct battery vis relay connection has anyone done an ugrade(i know there is a PD somewhere with twin cibies....)

[Eddieb]

was following a BMW car tonight with (i presume HIDs) made me realise my headlight is pretty poor.Aoert from a plus 50 or plus 90 upgrade to the H4,some cleaning and erhas direct battery vis relay connection has anyone done an ugrade(i know there is a PD somewhere with twin cibies....)

I've put a plus 50 in while up here but haven't had a chance to try it out yet, that will be tomorrow night.

Still wondering if I should make off with the twin light FZ600 set lying on the floor of Tinlizzie's garage and bolt that on.

[Padmei]

Somewhat off topic but since I was up in Auckland I called into experience BMW & had a look around. The guys there were really friendly & courteous & let me go for a spin on a new F800GS.

I had been wanting a ride on one since they came out & have to say that I feel pretty impressed with it. Comparing the power to that of the KLR, it was what I thought the right amount for an adventure bike. Nice & responsive, linear but didn't throw the front wheel up uncontrollably. It felt lighter than the KLR however is prob about the same weight.

It's the first time I have ridden a bike with ABS & tho i couldn't feel anything when jamming on the front, I could feel the pulses coming back through the foot brake.

The only thing I didn't like was the seat which felt quite "formed" (for lack of abetter adjective) compared to the relatively universal position of the KLR seat.

Would I buy one? Yes in about 10 years when the 2nd hand price comes way down to around $10-12K but then other new bikes would have got better for the same price.

[Eddieb]

A new listing on Trade Me for a R100GS, not a PD this time, just a standard one though the main differences are tank size and shape and the shape of the front fairing. The rest of the bike is the same.

$4500 ono.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-228925417.htm

You'd have to be comfortable in your sexuality though, it's pink. Either that or would suit a KLR rider looking to trade up :Pokey:

[Padmei]

A bit of a clean & some decent outside photos & it would look quite good. Pink looks quite nice:yes:

[junkmanjoe]

be a good motor for some one.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-229204755.htm

[NordieBoy]

Now that's an engine for a 640A rolling chassis :D

[Woodman]

Now that's an engine for a 640A rolling chassis :D

At the risk of sounding obvious and attracting Warewolves, why are there so many 640a rolling chassis' around?

[NordieBoy]

At the risk of sounding obvious and attracting Warewolves, why are there so many 640a rolling chassis' around?

Are there?

LukasM got a rolling chassis but had to pull the KTM engine out and sell it first :D

[Eddieb]

I went dow to the finish off my brake conversion on the PD today. It turned out I bought the wrong banjoy so didn't get far there. The one I got has a male connector and I needed a female one to match the brake line.
Bugger, oh well.

Pulled the front cover off the R80 to see if I can progress whats wrong with that, hmm, might need to do some refresher reading on how it all works.

The back of the diode board doesn't look great though.

[Box'a'bits]

The back of the diode board doesn't look great though.

The older ones all do that eventually. Don't create problems that aren't there yet. Just check that the rubber connections at thge back are still all sound.

Its the ignition system you need to concentrate on, not the charging system.

[igor]

clearly need the holden update

[Winston001]

I'll read through the whole thread at my leisure but just want to say I'm pleased its here. I have an affection for BMWs and can't quite bring myself to sell my R80RT. I'm hoping it will eventually become a classic at which point it'll become interesting again. :niceone:

[BEAMER89]

Would any one have a 89-95 R100GS seat spare that they will sell to me, l need one that l can alter for my bike so l can fit an early g/s dakar tank to my bike. Also has any one done the power upgrade from the bings to dellorto carbs and what size dell's did they use. cheers Graham

[Eddieb]

A new listing on Trade Me for a R100GS, not a PD this time, just a standard one though the main differences are tank size and shape and the shape of the front fairing. The rest of the bike is the same.

$4500 ono.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-228925417.htm

You'd have to be comfortable in your sexuality though, it's pink. Either that or would suit a KLR rider looking to trade up :Pokey:

Looks like this one has sold, the auction has been withdrawn

So Padmei, did you discover another side to your sexuality and come to the dark side?

[Eddieb]

Now that I'm back in Wellington I'm been wanting to replace the banjo on my front caliper to get the cable routing right after the caliper upgrade further up the thread. Currently fitted is about 15degrees and I need a 45 degree one.

When I pulled the Banjo off off the caliper it has a different connector to what I'm used to, and none of the local bikes shops or Enzed have seen it before. Rather than the usual male fitting it has a concave female fitting. The end of the cable has a round ball bearing like end, so the banjo is concaved to fit.

Can anyone advise where I can get a 45 degree banjo with this fitting? thread is standard metric 10x1.25.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=134586&d=1247529883

[NordieBoy]

Can anyone advise where I can get a 45 degree banjo with this fitting? thread is standard metric 10x1.25.

I have a nice spare 45 deg one in the other style though :D

[Eddieb]

Dime a dozen, I can get plenty of them and thats what I expected to see when I pulled it off so was surprised when I saw it.

[knottsav]

Hi, I am new here too. Been a lurker for a while.
I am new to a 94 R1100GS and loving it. Wanting to learn more about it, and all things GS / adventure riding.
Slowly making my way through the whole thread....am sure I'll learn a bit just in that.
cheers

[Kokopelli]

Hi, I am new here too. Been a lurker for a while.
I am new to a 94 R1100GS and loving it. Wanting to learn more about it, and all things GS / adventure riding.
Slowly making my way through the whole thread....am sure I'll learn a bit just in that.
cheers

Welcome. Tell us which town you live in. I am sure you'll enjoy your bike.

[Taz]

Hi, I am new here too. Been a lurker for a while.
I am new to a 94 R1100GS and loving it. Wanting to learn more about it, and all things GS / adventure riding.
Slowly making my way through the whole thread....am sure I'll learn a bit just in that.
cheers
Welcome. I also have a 1100 it's a 1998 (they had the revised gearbox). Great bikes and a hell of a lot more advanced and reliable than the airheads (from all reports they're the most reliable of all including the 1200). Good choice.

[Box'a'bits]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Classic-vintage/auction-230585534.htm

[Eddieb]

Now thats a tidy looking original example, except for the yellow starter motor cover.

[pampa]

Hey EddieB have a look at this may fit in your collection

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=99576

[Eddieb]

Hey EddieB have a look at this may fit in your collection

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=99576

Haha, yeah I've seen that one.

Actually I might shrink the collection once I get the 800 going again. I'm thinking of putting it on the market when I've got it sorted. While it's way more fun in the really tight stuff than the PD I do too many road miles and not so tight stuff so prefer the PD overall and I can't ride all of them at once, and the PD has not stopped me going anywhere yet.

Still deciding though, I would prefer to sell the 888 first. I just dropped that another $500 on trade me.

[BMWST?]

Can anyone advise where I can get a 45 degree banjo with this fitting? thread is standard metric 10x1.25.

I bet Mr Dobson knows

[knottsav]

thanks for the welcome guys.
I'm in Dunedin. Thoroughly enjoying the bike....stupid time of year to have bought a bike in this part of the country, but I've over 1000km's on her already in the space of a month....making the most of the very few sunny days we're getting. Need to get some pants though before I go too much further (yeah I know that conjurs up all sorts of nasty images :nono: but you know what I mean :) ).



Welcome. Tell us which town you live in. I am sure you'll enjoy your bike.

[knottsav]

Tried to PM so as not to bulk up this thread, but sorry I haven't sufficient privileges yet.

You mentioned a revised gearbox....are there documented issues with the earlier ones? i.e. things I should look out for?
thanks
Aaron


Welcome. I also have a 1100 it's a 1998 (they had the revised gearbox). Great bikes and a hell of a lot more advanced and reliable than the airheads (from all reports they're the most reliable of all including the 1200). Good choice.

[tri boy]

Can anyone advise where I can get a 45 degree banjo with this fitting? thread is standard metric 10x1.25.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=134586&d=1247529883

Fairly certain W White wholesale do those fittings.
(have made up a few stainless lines using their gear)
Can be ordered through any bike shop via sprint3.

[nallac]

You mentioned a revised gearbox....are there documented issues with the earlier ones? i.e. things I should look out for?
thanks
Aaron

Either of these sites has got a lot of info reguarding the earlier boxes,
and GS's in general.Have kept me busy over the last two weeks...

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/

or

http://www.advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3

[Eddieb]

Another R100GS PD on Trade me

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Classic-vintage/auction-231947749.htm

Red and White, full hard luggae and lots of important stuff replaced recently.

Bidding starts at $7500

[Padmei]

Check this out. Was in the COndo this year from reports.

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/509230543_hp9fz-L.jpg

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/509361855_sHcY4-L.jpg

Have to add it the wall so sorry about seeing it twice.

[BMWST?]

Well my clutch cable went out last sunday,just as i was taking off from staglands releasing clutch in tight u turn ...bang,bike stalls....clutch lever completely free....So a nerve wracking experiment at the intersection of SH2 and akatarawa,no trouble snicking neutral but slight uphill take off sees me stall the bike as i put it in gear after my scooting start...Lucily I can snick neutral and roll back.So I run across the intersection pushing the bike next gap and take off from the other side ...the rest of the traffic lights were uneventful,if a bit tough on the first gear dogs....
So new clutch cable ordered .Old cable removed after hand guard(1 bolt and mirror removed first...and hmmm how come the new cable doesnt have a nipple on the lever..they have sent the wrong one!!!!
Closer inspection reveals the nipple is removeable and needs to be as the cable adjustor is solid with no means of accepting a cable with integral nipple.

old and new,look at the state of the old one!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/30057073@N08/3803430134/" title="clutch 031 by kiwiproflexrider, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3478/3803430134_e54843a700.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="clutch 031" /></a>

new cable with seperate nipple

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/30057073@N08/3803433572/" title="clutch 033 by kiwiproflexrider, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3574/3803433572_3f5e2cd3dd.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="clutch 033" /></a>

[Eddieb]

Check for wear on the inside of the lever. If the cable has worn a groove it will not last long before the same thing happens, possibly 3 months if it's a bad groove and then you will be up for another cable. The way your cable has gone is identical to what happened to mine.

Not sure if the 100's are the same but my 80 was missing a very small washer in the lever screw that spaced the lever to the correct positon and stopped any up and down movement. Without it the lever doesn't sit right, the groove happens and cables chew up in quick time.

If the 100 cables are the same $96!!!! each as the 80 ones it's not something you want to keep replacing.

If you have a groove in your lever either check, or get it checked for the washer and if it's not there get one put in, and I'd recommend replacing the lever with an unworn one.

DAMHIK

[igormortis]

Yeah, I went through a few cables in quick succession once. Turns out greasing the nipple (!) at the lever goes a long way toward cable life.

As an aside I carried an electrical block connector and a short end of old cable around in my tool kit for a while - saved my ass a couple of times when the cable went at the lever. Swap cable ends, connect the snapped end to the block connector and attach that end at the clutch actuator arm. Not too elegant but works in a pinch!

[BMWST?]

If the 100 cables are the same $96!!!! each as the 80 ones it's not something you want to keep replacing.


DAMHIK

more like 96 plus gst!Will have a look at the lever tonight cant quite visualiaze what you are sayin....

[Eddieb]

more like 96 plus gst!Will have a look at the lever tonight cant quite visualiaze what you are sayin....

I have several samples you're welcome to come over and check out, though it's quite obvious on the lever where the cable goes in if it's worn a groove.

[Eddieb]

Another 'Spotted in Wellington' post.

This time a parallel twin though, a few miles from home.

[igormortis]

You always seem to spot the ones in this neck o' the woods!

[BMWST?]

Clutch cable installed!!!!!Clutch action superb!Germans even have little foam plugs installed inside the adjustor to seal the cable from water ingress!
no sign of "groove" clutch lever had small wavy springy washer to keep clutch lever pushed down to keep aligned with cable

Now got a couple of other small issues:Oops:,perils of a 20 year old bike i suppose.

[igormortis]

Now got a couple of other small issues:Oops:,perils of a 20 year old bike i suppose.

Uh oh... Mission creep? I know it well...

[Squiggles]

Another 'Spotted in Wellington' post.

This time a parallel twin though, a few miles from home.

Only one wheel is shiny... hmm

[BMWST?]

Uh oh... Mission creep? I know it well...

minor mate minor....couldnt quite get the tank positioned and locked down last night,and the fuel line from petcock to carby is looking a bit old.....

[Eddieb]

Well thanks to Steven's help (BMWRSNUT) the 800 lives again, at the expense of the PD though.

The 'Bean Can' which contains a set of points on the 800 has died. After transplanting the part off the PD the 800 fired up straight away.

So now I need a Bean Can, anyone got one lying around?

As the 800 is still Reg's & Wof'd and the PD isn't due to it's smashed headlight I've left it in the 800 so I can use that.

[igormortis]

Well thanks to Steven's help (BMWRSNUT) the 800 lives again, at the expense of the PD though.

The 'Bean Can' which contains a set of points on the 800 has died. After transplanting the part off the PD the 800 fired up straight away.

So now I need a Bean Can, anyone got one lying around?

As the 800 is still Reg's & Wof'd and the PD isn't due to it's smashed headlight I've left it in the 800 so I can use that.

I understood that the "points-in-a-can" arrangement was only for a few years, and that by the 80G/S, it had been replaced by the electronic hall sensor? Also in the "bean can". The G/S engine I have has the hall sensor.

Anyway, I've got a working spare. Shoot me a PM if you want it.

[igor]

not mine but just saw it




Since my leg issues I have had trouble mounting and dis mounting from my R series G/S Special. It is a tall bike and can cause trouble especially when loaded to get off. Tony Bennett and I developed a side stand that mounts on the engine and footpeg bolts. It is easily deployed and easily retracted. It is also strong enough to allow you to either mount the bike or dismount the bike when loaded or unloaded. This is a quality side stand that works very well and certainly changes the way for vertically challenged to mount and dismount. It will not retract on you if the bike moves and it looks very nice when fitted. The side stand kit will be $165, a bargain compared to similar kits from Europe. http://ozadvntr.smugmug.com/photos/438329400_qujYh-XL.jpg
contact info
Michael Jaeger 0421276875

[Phreaky Phil]

not mine but just saw it




Since my leg issues I have had trouble mounting and dis mounting from my R series G/S Special. It is a tall bike and can cause trouble especially when loaded to get off. Tony Bennett and I developed a side stand that mounts on the engine and footpeg bolts. It is easily deployed and easily retracted. It is also strong enough to allow you to either mount the bike or dismount the bike when loaded or unloaded. This is a quality side stand that works very well and certainly changes the way for vertically challenged to mount and dismount. It will not retract on you if the bike moves and it looks very nice when fitted. The side stand kit will be $165, a bargain compared to similar kits from Europe. http://ozadvntr.smugmug.com/photos/438329400_qujYh-XL.jpg
contact info
Michael Jaeger 0421276875
$165 is a very good price for these. I have built quite a few of them from stainless steel but my costs for machining are higher than your price. I sent detailed drawings to Ozadvnt quite some time ago for these as my price was to high for him. Bit pissed though, didnt even get a thankyou. ! Obviously he used the drawings.

[igor]

$165 is a very good price for these. I have built quite a few of them from stainless steel but my costs for machining are higher than your price. I sent detailed drawings to Ozadvnt quite some time ago for these as my price was to high for him. Bit pissed though, didnt even get a thankyou. ! Obviously he used the drawings.

dont feel bad PP. They will claim it as their own soon. Just wish they would come and take that over stayer "Brooc" away next time they call

[Phreaky Phil]

dont feel bad PP. They will claim it as their own soon. Just wish they would come and take that over stayer "Brooc" away next time they call
I cant claim credit for designing it, I copied the concept from an English couple we became friends with who had ridden their Airhead round the world and ended up living in NZ for a while.

[igor]

dont feel bad PP. They will claim it as their own soon. Just wish they would come and take that over stayer "Brooc" away next time they call

i think i met them. had the same pretty purrrrrrrrple bike as me. same set-up. He was a Pshyc nurse or similiar

[Phreaky Phil]

i think i met them. had the same pretty purrrrrrrrple bike as me. same set-up. He was a Pshyc nurse or similiarYea, that was Paul. He was a Pshyc nurse and his wife Jill was a Psycologist.They had an R80 Basic and the other couple that rode with them had the GSPD. (I never got to meet them). Neat couple. They lived in New Plymouth for 18months.