I haven't got much new to report for this week.
To be honest, I've been concentrating on trying to actually keep warm this week, so I thought I'd talk about riding in winter.
The last three days the temperature's been well below zero each day, and it's been an exercise in smooth throttle and brake control, and picking the dry patches of road. I don't think I'll ever get used to how cold it can actually get on a bike in winter. This week I'm wearing thermals under leathers with winter gloves, and a neck sock and I'm really suffering.
Winter really seems to bring its own little problems:
The cold
Low sun (sunstrike)
Dark mornings mean you constantly have headlights coming towards you.
Black ice
I've decided to post some stuff on black ice I've found around the net in the hope that it will help some people:
Black Ice
Black Ice, that thin layer of ice covering roads, perhaps only in shadowed area, can be one of the most insidious winter risks to deal with. You can be riding along on bare pavement one minute and sliding down the road the next instant.
Black Ice is called Black, because it takes on the color of the underlying pavement. It is very thin, and often gives the impression of having some surface irregularity, and therefore appears to supply some traction. These looks can be deceiving, because as soon as you apply brakes (or make significant turning movements) you start to slide.
Turns
Turns on Black Ice are best accomplished by keeping the bike as upright as possible. This may involve offsetting your upper body to the side (toward the direction you want to turn) while at the same time keeping the bike upright.
The principal reason to keep the bike upright is NOT to keep more of your tire tread in contact with the road, but more simply, that a leaning bike necessarily puts lateral forces on the tire at the contact patch. The contact patch (where the rubber meets the ice) is that preciously small area providing all the traction. Black Ice frequently does not supply enough traction to counteract this lateral force - the tire slips out from under you, and down you go.
Turns with the bike mostly vertical also imply slow turns. That, more than anything is the name of the game.
Braking
Braking on black ice will cause a slight melting of the surface layer of the ice, producing a very thin layer of water. Water on ice is a lot more slippery than just ice.
Braking must be done with great care, and principally with the back brake. The front brake of a bicycle supplies way more braking power than the back brake. The more it works, the more weight is transferred to the front wheel, and the more the braking force applied to the contact patch.
The problem in winter is that you will quickly break traction with the front wheel. Once you do, your chances of remaining upright are minimal. Reserve the limited traction of the front wheel solely for steering. Brake with the back wheel. Transfer weight rearward, (stick your butt out behind the seat), to keep as much weight over the braking tire.
As long as you can steer you have a good chance of remaining upright. This is why if you only have one studded tire it belongs on the front. It is also why you want to avoid braking with the front wheel on black ice. Even with a locked up rear brake, and the rear wheel skidding, as long as you stay off the front brake, you can steer all the way down icy hills too slippery to walk.
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