Rupe, do a half hour heat cycle.
Ride as a Green party memberfor the first run then let it cool to COLD
. Next run do the same but give it a bit on the gas for a couple of mins then back to being a National party supporter.
Repeat during this cycle whilst LABOURINGsaid bike like too leesies in a fish shop, You know up and down...in and out.
Anotherafter this then give it a decent run like winston got
and then do the
thing again.
By this time you would probably be fairly wellpissed.
next youll be told towhile some one
after
and we all
and yell out
then the
will show up and youll be
but we will still be
![]()
[SIGPIC][/SIG
Wow Aaron, that make your post so much easier to read. You should always use those icons!
Yep ride it likeand
for about 20mins then change the oil! then do it again for about 1hr then change the oil. Do this for about four changes of oil and she'll be
. Just do the oil changes as usual after that.
This is all I've ever done even on brand new 4 stroke road bikes. I never replaced the rings or had any problems with gearbox or any lubricated engine part. The VFR750 I had did 83000 miles (133576 km) before I sold it. Its still going in the UK (rego M634MJD). On about 90,000 miles now. I never did anything to it (other than change oil do the shims usual maintenance) I broke 2 chains on that one too.
Treat it like a 2 stroke!!!!![]()
You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape.
If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.
If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
And now a third thing a bloody big gun to shoot theives with!
Still going did the maize paddock race the other day. Toss up between that the jolly rooster but unfortunately I don't own the big trailer. Been to the snadpit a few times in the last month though.
Looking to do something this weekend though what you up to sunday?
You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape.
If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.
If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
And now a third thing a bloody big gun to shoot theives with!
get on it warm the fuker up and ride it how youd normally ride, never had a prob with my crfs doing it like that and they did 100 hrs on a piston lol![]()
Posted this http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm on the last "break in thread" here it as again. Have a look at the piston museum it works! been doing it for years over many racing kart engines firstly due to impatience then deliberately. Can't be bothered re-typing any more info its all in the thread Rupe referred to, I think??
Print the mototune article, read it, Ride the fucker, change the oil, and ride it again. First 20 mins are the most important, Accelerate and decelerate no constant revs!
Good luck! and why I'm helping to make your bike faster for me to try and keep up, I don't know! LOL!!!
EDIT: Just had a thought reading the bit about heat cycling and it not being necessary.
Just bear in mind the four stroke MX bikes natural tendency to overheat specially in sand. So if your running in at the sandpit stick to the blue forest tracks the first loop and not grinding away in the deep sand. I'd possibly run it in at Thunder where you can open her up, or at the Sandpit do a blue track forest loop straight to the road sections out the back for a few of accelerate and decelerate runs so she revs out fully (but not caining the crap outa it), then another few quick blue forest loops, giving it the squirt between corners. Rest it, then have a go at the MX track once you've checked she sounds all ok and the water and oil levels are good etc. Ride an hour or two, take it home, change the oil (and filter on a four stroke) then its done!!!
Thats how I'd do it??
PS don't leave it idling in the garage after the recon, start it once to make sure it goes then shut it down (you need higher compression to get decent first up ring seal).
On a Motorcycle you're penetrating distance, right along with the machine!! In a car you're just a spectator, the windshields like a TV!!
'Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out! Shouting, ' Holy sh!t... What a Ride!! '
I know a guy who builds race car motors as a profession (his own race car included), he runs his fresh engines in by racing them on the race track at full tit. This is how I ran my brand new RMZ250 in, its done a good 70hrs on the original engine, valve clearances are still sweet too. I like to rev the shit out of my bike too, im not easy on her.
RMZ#88
ran mine in at thunder did an hour then changed oil and filter
There always been two schools of thought / This is four stroke cars
So the first question is longevity or power
It was pretty much considered that for longevity , you break them in like,
up to 4000 rpm for the first 100k
up to 5000 rpm for the next hundred
etc:
Up to Drive it like you stole it after 500kms
For power, warm it up , drive it like you stole it straight away.
Ive seen plenty of engines run in on the dyno and the rolling road in the vehicle.
Same principle.
I run most of mine in as above , for power.
Dont thrash them from cold, this applies to all engines whether run in or not.
Dont load it up.
Dont overheat it.
Slowly work it harder and harder over maybe half an hour then thrash the nuts off it.
Change the oil
Done .
That mototune thing has been around for years, and is pretty much cock on.
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