Forum whore
so the ese wire wheels are to big (much like there manly bits if you read other threads on here)Originally Posted by Pumba
I thought they just looked bling (specialy when they where new and shiny)
3.5" is the right size for a rear slick anything else is to small or to big (but will do in a pinch)
"Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know. - Cullen Hightower
In the riders seat
He used to have some
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
bucket blingster
Yip, went to a good home, oh hang on, Kick bought them .....He used to have some
The metal is always nude.
Interesting. Obviously not necessary.
"...you meet the weirdest people riding a Guzzi !!..."
Hardcore Biker
I run 2.15f and 2.5r, and have no issues with the width or handling, quite the opposite, and I have set up my other bikes to all run the same wheels so that I have the best tyres including wets for the right bike at the right meeting.
I wouldn't run wire wheels cos you then need tubes. Which greatly increases you chances of punctures.
Moped rider
Does anyone know what size rims are on a 1988 gsxr 250?
In the riders seat
I think they are 2.5x17 front and 3.0x17 rear just about ideal sizes to run RS125 slicks
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
Making James May look quick...
Do you need some? PM sent
Sometimes you wish it was easier, but if it was, everyone else would do it, then you remember you don't want to be like everybody else!
Forum whore
Thats for sure!!!!!!!!!!!! F@###$%$!! Tubes
Team ESE have had a few issues there.
Slicks have small ribs inside them and these seem to wear through the tubes and puncture them. And then there is the poor quality of the tubes themselves, spliting on the seam lines.
In the riders seat
Tube get no more punctures than tubeless if they done by someone with 1/2 a clueThats for sure!!!!!!!!!!!! F@###$%$!! Tubes
Team ESE have had a few issues there.
Slicks have small ribs inside them and these seem to wear through the tubes and puncture them. And then there is the poor quality of the tubes themselves, spliting on the seam lines.
Fit a decent quality tube and use tyre talc when they're fitted, end of problem
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
Fair weather rider
Tyre talc, good idea, we will get some.
Kickaha are you "someone with 1/2 a clue" have you run tubes with RS125 slickes successfully yourself? Up this way we don't know of anyone else running tubes and slicks on wire wheels.
Certainly caused us a few problems, the price or brand of the tubes did not seem to be a good guide to their quality either. Tubes for the 90/90/17 front are a bit hard to get too.
We have been looking at glueing up the spoke holes/nipples to try and run them tubless. We have heard talk of others doing this.
.
Registered User
Have you got the tape over the spokes or are you letting the tube rub against the ends of the spokes?
In the riders seat
2 years with wire wheels and RS slicks on my first Bucket and no problems at all
Personally I like Bridgestone or Michelin tubes or other "name brands"but using the tyre talc is probably the most important thing
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
Fair weather rider
Yes, we use rim tapes and secure them with electricians tape so they don't get pushed aside when fitting the tyre.
The problem has been these little ribs that are moulded on the inside of the Dunlop tyre (Michlin/Bridgestone, cant remember if they have them too, but think so). These ribs rub on and wear through the tube eventualy and some times the tubes have failed along the seams, from excessive flexing I supose.
We have been looking at sealing the spokes, but a lot of the rims have a very poor finish inside at the weld where they have been joined and we doubt they are good enough for a tubless tyre to seal there.
.
Who You Calling a Pig
Yep those are the ones, on any of the GJ72 frames which can varry from 88 through to 91.
What you got?
For the record Qkkid was in my bed, not the other way round
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks