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Thread: DR650 front sprocket?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    25th December 2009 - 11:44
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    2008 DR650
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    Hanmer Springs
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    108
    Something to aspire to huh! First time on 2 wheels for a few years so a bit out of touch, bit of catching up to do ;-)

  2. #17
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    2nd March 2004 - 13:00
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    FransAlp 700
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    Nelson
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    A 13t front will work fine.

    I'd go to a 520 setup though.
    An RGV250 rear in 44t and then 14/15t DR600 fronts work nicely with a 110t link chain.

    The 44/14 will give you the same as 13/41.

    The 15t lasts quite a bit longer than the 14's do.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    1st March 2007 - 11:30
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    2014 R1200 GS, 2007 DR 650
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    Whakatane
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    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    A 13t front will work fine.

    I'd go to a 520 setup though.
    An RGV250 rear in 44t and then 14/15t DR600 fronts work nicely with a 110t link chain.

    The 44/14 will give you the same as 13/41.

    The 15t lasts quite a bit longer than the 14's do.
    He's right in all of this. Also the 13t front that fits, is a common size on several 250's and not at all difficult to source. However, think about what Ducatijim told you.
    For literally 5 minutes work, you can have the best of both worlds.
    You have stock gearing on the road for an economical cruise but you can also have a very usable cluster of gears for the rough, with no chain alterations. The 13t on the front actually brings the gears closer together in terms of road speed and they turn out to work really well in the tougher stuff. You do however have a practical limit of about 110 kph on your top speed.
    Doesnt, matter though, because 5 minutes work gets you back to road gearing.
    I may not be as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I always was.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    2nd March 2004 - 13:00
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    FransAlp 700
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    I'd be tempted to go to 122 links and 14/15/16-44.

    16 for road touring.
    15 for normal use.
    14 for fun.

    Also make sure you do something like a DynoJet kit.

    It's worth 10% or so and a tooth on a front sprocket is only 8% different.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    18th January 2005 - 10:49
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    Buell XB12X 'Black Betty'
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    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    I'd be tempted to go to 122 links and 14/15/16-44.

    16 for road touring.
    15 for normal use.
    14 for fun.

    Also make sure you do something like a DynoJet kit.

    It's worth 10% or so and a tooth on a front sprocket is only 8% different.


    Christ Fran, the guy just wanted to know how to gear it down a bit-not get a whole new animal.

    Really Countryguy, 2 sprockets;13t and 15t, 2 circlips and a Supercheap plier truely is ALL you need for your issue. Trust me.
    I'm no gynaecologist, however I would be happy to take a look......................

  6. #21
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    2nd March 2004 - 13:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducatijim View Post
    Christ Fran, the guy just wanted to know how to gear it down a bit-not get a whole new animal.
    I just don't like the 13t.
    Too small.

    First new chain and I'd go to 520 though.
    Just about pick up a chain and sprockets cheaper than just a good 525 chain.

  7. #22
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    18th January 2005 - 10:49
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    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    Too small.

    .
    Should have known....size fixated
    I'm no gynaecologist, however I would be happy to take a look......................

  8. #23
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    2nd March 2004 - 13:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducatijim View Post
    Should have known....size fixated
    You're the one that went from a 650 to a 990!

  9. #24
    Join Date
    25th December 2009 - 11:44
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    2008 DR650
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    Thanks guys, going to try the 13th but not sure even that will be low enough. If not I'll just make do and be careful where I ride. In the past with the farm bikes I have ridden I have been able to go over some really steep country, around sheep tracks etc at walking pace without risk of stalling. Just have to compromise I guess. Rode up a firebreak last night and chickened out 1/2 way up. The old XL185 I rode years ago would have plugged on up. Comming down was scary, just couldn't ride slow enough and keep on stalling.

  10. #25
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    27th September 2008 - 18:14
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    Richmond
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    Don't ride slow.

    problem solved.
    I mentioned vegetables once, but I think I got away with it...........

  11. #26
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    15th August 2006 - 17:33
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    2001 R1150GS
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    Countryguy
    i wouldnt even bother mate, fast bike for slow shit, you'd be better of down grading CC,s or getting another ride as a trail hack or go buy some clutch springs and plates cause your gonna need them with all the clutch riding you gonna be doing. i used my old 650 on the trails and MX tracks but i just fanged it and it went sweet, but for the tight and slow i had more fun on an AG200
    'Good things come to those who wait'
    Bollocks, get of your arse and go get it

  12. #27
    Join Date
    20th November 2005 - 22:24
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    WR250R DR650 Transalp650
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    Christchurch
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    XL175 to DR650...
    It's just the comparing apples to orange all over again.. their just not built for the same job.

    A bit of a interesting thing on downhills... how do the 2 strokers get on with no engine braking? Guess they learn to use their brakes properly, also suspect the lighter weight helps.. I hated the two stroke I've ridden because of the lack of engine braking. I'll admit I've never taken the time to get the hang of them.
    www.remotemoto.com - a serious site for serious ADV riders, the ultimate resource in the making.
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  13. #28
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    2nd March 2004 - 13:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Transalper View Post
    XL175 to DR650...
    It's just the comparing apples to orange all over again.. their just not built for the same job.
    Yep the XR250 is like your CRF and fun at firebreaks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Transalper View Post
    A bit of a interesting thing on downhills... how do the 2 strokers get on with no engine braking? Guess they learn to use their brakes properly, also suspect the lighter weight helps.. I hated the two stroke I've ridden because of the lack of engine braking. I'll admit I've never taken the time to get the hang of them.
    You really get to learn how to use the rear brake properly.

    I use engine braking and front brake 90% of the time but am slowly learning to use the rear brake too.

  14. #29
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    26th January 2005 - 11:33
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    i tend to clutch in and use brakes on any bike a hell of alot, anything else not that steep and then maybe engine braking and rear brake just to keep revs happy and not doing its tits ;0

  15. #30
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    15th August 2004 - 17:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by countryguy View Post
    In the past with the farm bikes I have ridden I have been able to go over some really steep country, around sheep tracks etc at walking pace without risk of stalling.
    No road/trail bike will be like your ag bikes. As transalper said, they are different animals, designed for different jobs. Adapt, or perish!

    Quote Originally Posted by Transalper View Post
    A bit of a interesting thing on downhills... how do the 2 strokers get on with no engine braking? Guess they learn to use their brakes properly
    I've always used my brakes properly even on 4Ts, since engine braking doesn't give enough power or enough control for my liking.

    Some ppl like 2Ts because they consider them 'pure': one control for 'go' and one for 'stop', these are not connected like 4Ts. Shutting off the 'go' control on a 2T doesn't retard forward motion, doesn't slam all the weight onto the front wheel, doesn't cause compression stalls, etc. You wanna slow down? Use the effin' brakes, that's what they're there for!
    Cheers,
    Colin

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    All racers I know aren't in it for the money. They race because it's something inside of them... They're not courting death. They're courting being alive.

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