Something to aspire to huh! First time on 2 wheels for a few years so a bit out of touch, bit of catching up to do ;-)
Something to aspire to huh! First time on 2 wheels for a few years so a bit out of touch, bit of catching up to do ;-)
A 13t front will work fine.
I'd go to a 520 setup though.
An RGV250 rear in 44t and then 14/15t DR600 fronts work nicely with a 110t link chain.
The 44/14 will give you the same as 13/41.
The 15t lasts quite a bit longer than the 14's do.
He's right in all of this. Also the 13t front that fits, is a common size on several 250's and not at all difficult to source. However, think about what Ducatijim told you.
For literally 5 minutes work, you can have the best of both worlds.
You have stock gearing on the road for an economical cruise but you can also have a very usable cluster of gears for the rough, with no chain alterations. The 13t on the front actually brings the gears closer together in terms of road speed and they turn out to work really well in the tougher stuff. You do however have a practical limit of about 110 kph on your top speed.
Doesnt, matter though, because 5 minutes work gets you back to road gearing.
I may not be as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I always was.
I'd be tempted to go to 122 links and 14/15/16-44.
16 for road touring.
15 for normal use.
14 for fun.
Also make sure you do something like a DynoJet kit.
It's worth 10% or so and a tooth on a front sprocket is only 8% different.
I'm no gynaecologist, however I would be happy to take a look......................
Thanks guys, going to try the 13th but not sure even that will be low enough. If not I'll just make do and be careful where I ride. In the past with the farm bikes I have ridden I have been able to go over some really steep country, around sheep tracks etc at walking pace without risk of stalling. Just have to compromise I guess. Rode up a firebreak last night and chickened out 1/2 way up. The old XL185 I rode years ago would have plugged on up. Comming down was scary, just couldn't ride slow enough and keep on stalling.
Don't ride slow.
problem solved.
I mentioned vegetables once, but I think I got away with it...........
Countryguy
i wouldnt even bother mate, fast bike for slow shit, you'd be better of down grading CC,s or getting another ride as a trail hack or go buy some clutch springs and plates cause your gonna need them with all the clutch riding you gonna be doing. i used my old 650 on the trails and MX tracks but i just fanged it and it went sweet, but for the tight and slow i had more fun on an AG200![]()
'Good things come to those who wait'
Bollocks, get of your arse and go get it
XL175 to DR650...
It's just the comparing apples to orange all over again.. their just not built for the same job.
A bit of a interesting thing on downhills... how do the 2 strokers get on with no engine braking? Guess they learn to use their brakes properly, also suspect the lighter weight helps.. I hated the two stroke I've ridden because of the lack of engine braking. I'll admit I've never taken the time to get the hang of them.
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i tend to clutch in and use brakes on any bike a hell of alot, anything else not that steep and then maybe engine braking and rear brake just to keep revs happy and not doing its tits ;0
No road/trail bike will be like your ag bikes. As transalper said, they are different animals, designed for different jobs. Adapt, or perish!
I've always used my brakes properly even on 4Ts, since engine braking doesn't give enough power or enough control for my liking.
Some ppl like 2Ts because they consider them 'pure': one control for 'go' and one for 'stop', these are not connected like 4Ts. Shutting off the 'go' control on a 2T doesn't retard forward motion, doesn't slam all the weight onto the front wheel, doesn't cause compression stalls, etc. You wanna slow down? Use the effin' brakes, that's what they're there for!![]()
Cheers,
Colin
Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
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