CRF250R vs CRF450X

[B0000M]

Well when I say doesn't sound like the best idea I mean kinda doesn't sound like I'll save money.. Any ideas on how to make this riding more affordable? Maybe a 250x? Tho I am hessitant I'll get bored with less power than my r..

what is it that you are destroying thats costing so much????

the only regular maintenance you need to do on a crf is oil changes, oil filter changes every 2nd time, keep your chain lubed, keep your suspension linkages greased, then theres a top end every 80-100 hours, and a bottom end probably every 200 hours.

(edit) forgot to mention cleaning the air filter every ride, - or more if its a real dusty day. and check valve clearances every 20-30 hours (or when it gets hard to start)

dont take whats in the manual as gospel, they are dreamers and nobody actually changes pistons and rings every 7.5 hours!

[Ride it till the red]

dont take whats in the manual as gospel, they are dreamers and nobody actually changes pistons and rings every 7.5 hours!

Aint that the truth! Oh the money they would make if people did!

At the end of the day it's not a cheap sport, but maintaining your bike regularly is certainly cheaper than fixing it when things go wrong due to lack of maintainence!

[CRF119]

Why are you pulling your carb apart? thats the last thing a novice needs to be touching. Do more harm then good. Maybe honda where thinking with those secerity screws.

[Mr. Rock]

What was killing me was planning for top ends and bottom ends cause I was told top @ 40 and bottom @ 100 so twice as much as you reccomended!! I like your service advice better haha!

And taking the carb apart to clean it check jets and there numbers, floats etc. Me and my mate (more my mate) did it cause he has rebuilt a handful etc then that's when Honda offered the re jet upgrade :-D good times.

Back to servicing.. How come everyone is recommending 40hrs for top end mainly bike shops who know my riding and ability.. Make money off me?

[B0000M]

well 40 hours if youre a real hard out racer. But i assume youre not from your posts. I know people with 300+ hours on their original bottom end!

[Rupe]

What was killing me was planning for top ends and bottom ends cause I was told top @ 40 and bottom @ 100 so twice as much as you reccomended!! I like your service advice better haha!

And taking the carb apart to clean it check jets and there numbers, floats etc. Me and my mate (more my mate) did it cause he has rebuilt a handful etc then that's when Honda offered the re jet upgrade :-D good times.

Back to servicing.. How come everyone is recommending 40hrs for top end mainly bike shops who know my riding and ability.. Make money off me?

For my kxf250 it's top end every 80hrs, bottom 200+hrs, oil every 5hrs, oil filter every 10hrs, air filter EVERY ride, valve check at top end rebuild unless it's hard to start. I don't touch the carb unless it needs cleaning (which it shouldn't if your on to it with your air filter). Pretty much everyone I know would be the same, so I guess you should too, unless you're James stuart.

[Blagger]

Those "security bolts" sound like T-Drives - they're common on chainsaw and roadsaw air filters.
Take a sample one down to an engineering supply shop and they'll fit you out with a driver. I just bought one for the same reason, Kincrome (sp?) I think.
They are in T-spanners or as sockets to fit your half-inch drive set.

[Blagger]

Those "security bolts" sound like T-Drives - take a sample down to an engineering shop or tool warehouse and they can fit you out with a T-spanner or socket to fit your half-inch driver set.
I just bought one, Kincrome I think.

[Blagger]

Damn spaz...

[CRF119]

The sercurity screws pull the carb apart in the middle. To check jets and float only the bottom and very top needs to be removed.

[Mr. Rock]

Those "security bolts" sound like T-Drives - they're common on chainsaw and roadsaw air filters.
Take a sample one down to an engineering supply shop and they'll fit you out with a driver. I just bought one for the same reason, Kincrome (sp?) I think.
They are in T-spanners or as sockets to fit your half-inch drive set.

sweet sounds good. will do that if i come across anymore

The sercurity screws pull the carb apart in the middle. To check jets and float only the bottom and very top needs to be removed.

the carb was pretty dirty when i got the bike so was wanting to clean the slide and everything inside just so my mind was at ease

well 40 hours if youre a real hard out racer. But i assume youre not from your posts. I know people with 300+ hours on their original bottom end!

this is sounding hopeful..

so by the sounds of these ideas if i keep my 250r not listen to the manual cause im not racing. service less and do it myself. i will cut my costs. still have my bike and not have to change what i am riding!

[Pornstar]

The sercurity screws pull the carb apart in the middle. To check jets and float only the bottom and very top needs to be removed.

I agree, pretty sure you will be opening a can of worms that will need a honda factory line robot to re asemble.

[Mr. Rock]

I agree, pretty sure you will be opening a can of worms that will need a honda factory line robot to re asemble.

bahahaha and i bet there not easy to come by ether!

[carver]

I have ridden both the 450X and 250R

The benifits of the X are electric start and a real tractor like power.
The X felt good on a tight trail once i had played with the suspension.

the 250 was a blast to ride, but i would hate to stall it up a clay hill, cause if it dont start the first time, it wont start for a while!

[B0000M]

the 250 was a blast to ride, but i would hate to stall it up a clay hill, cause if it dont start the first time, it wont start for a while!

im yet to see this problem with any crf- i thought it was a yamaha issue only