Clutch...

[Buddy L]

Whats the reason for pre soaking your clutch plates in the oil for?
I have never done this and have never had a problem.
I always de-grease the fibre plates when i change brands of oils as well.
Is there any pros or cons to this?

Will using de-greaser on my fibre plates break them down faster?

[morg_nz]

i thought the pre-soaking after cleaning them was to make sure they were well lubricated, and not dry so they wouldnt get blown to pieces the first time they are used. but i have just had mine soaking for a couple of hours, put them back in the bike and the bastard thing still doesnt work! im lost! grrr!

[Buddy L]

I had a 01 CR125 and had problems with my clutch. Well only when the oil was cold. I would start the bike in netural and wait untill the bike had fully warmed up and the clutch would work fine. when the bike was cold it would never ingage the clutch.

[Buddy L]

But my four stroke works perfect every time as the bike shares the motor oil and gear box oil, so they warm up together.

[CRF119]

The soaking part mainly applies to new ones but could have been the problem, (apparently not in this case) 80-90 how did u even get that in small oil cap hole lol. If motal is to dear get GPS from Super cheap thats what i use in my 450 has been great on both engine and cluctch. also have 10 other mates that use it to. Are you missing a shim/washer that gose with the thrust bearing? Surely you can see the clutch working they are pretty simple things.

[morg_nz]

Yeah thats what gets me - I can see it working, the lever seems to be acting properly and i can watch the basket move but it just doesnt seem to want to disengage properly?

The soaking part mainly applies to new ones but could have been the problem, (apparently not in this case) 80-90 how did u even get that in small oil cap hole lol. If motal is to dear get GPS from Super cheap thats what i use in my 450 has been great on both engine and cluctch. also have 10 other mates that use it to. Are you missing a shim/washer that gose with the thrust bearing? Surely you can see the clutch working they are pretty simple things.

[L Rider]

i thought the pre-soaking after cleaning them was to make sure they were well lubricated, and not dry so they wouldnt get blown to pieces the first time they are used. but i have just had mine soaking for a couple of hours, put them back in the bike and the bastard thing still doesnt work! im lost! grrr!

This sounds so like my hubby with his 125. Drove him insane the amount of times he had it apart, cleaned the plates, soaked them etc etc.
He's away at the moment otherwise i'd ask him exactly what it was doing or not doing. I do recall he changed to Motul oil from Bel Ray and also it still didn't seem to be working right but after it was running for a bit he took it around the back yard & it become fine. Maybe by then the oil had got through & coated everything properly

[zeRax]

what you wanna do is rev it to the moon and stomp the gear lever into gear while holding in clutch !, sure fire way to make a change of sorts... :P 80/90, better pour some thinners in there pal !


(disclaimer- do nothing of the above)

[WRT]

Check you have the plates in round the right way. On the CR250's they have a notch on one edge of the teeth, and if you put them on inside out then the notches catch on the basket and the clutch stops working no matter how much you pull the lever (would probably work when you first fit them, but not once the basket etc is spinning so sounds to me like it could be your problem).

A lot of riders use Automatic Transmission Fluid as per B000M's suggestion, I've never heard of it going wrong and it's cheap as chips (I use Motul Transoil personally). I wouldn't bother replacing the oil every 5 hrs; on a 2 stroke that's probably a bit excessive as (unlike a four stroke) the oil is separate from the engine and therefore less prone to contamination. I personally replace the oil about every 6 months, but I'd do it more frequently if I was using a cheaper oil such as ATF. You will notice the oil discolours soon after changing; this is due to the fibres from the plates and normal.

Buddy L - New fibres normally recommend soaking before fitment, so if you have used degreaser on them I'd definitely soak them before putting them back in.

Note that all of the above is from my own experience and other's recommendations to me; even though I' do the work on my own CRs, I don't claim to be a mechanic.

[morg_nz]

Just checked the plates and steels - both are completly symmetrical - i.e. nothing different on one side than the other, so I dont think I could have them in the wrong way. I will have to get some thinner oil and give that a go - I see that most 2t gearbox oil is 10W30 or 10W40 (motul). so that might be causing the problem!

Check you have the plates in round the right way. On the CR250's they have a notch on one edge of the teeth, and if you put them on inside out then the notches catch on the basket and the clutch stops working no matter how much you pull the lever (would probably work when you first fit them, but not once the basket etc is spinning so sounds to me like it could be your problem).

A lot of riders use Automatic Transmission Fluid as per B000M's suggestion, I've never heard of it going wrong and it's cheap as chips (I use Motul Transoil personally). I wouldn't bother replacing the oil every 5 hrs; on a 2 stroke that's probably a bit excessive as (unlike a four stroke) the oil is separate from the engine and therefore less prone to contamination. I personally replace the oil about every 6 months, but I'd do it more frequently if I was using a cheaper oil such as ATF. You will notice the oil discolours soon after changing; this is due to the fibres from the plates and normal.

Buddy L - New fibres normally recommend soaking before fitment, so if you have used degreaser on them I'd definitely soak them before putting them back in.

Note that all of the above is from my own experience and other's recommendations to me; even though I' do the work on my own CRs, I don't claim to be a mechanic.

[CRF119]

Yea 10-40 is what castrol GPS is just go buy some

I personally replace the oil about every 6 months.

You must be so nice to your clutch, Mine is dragging after 10 hours and it runs seperate to the engine. Eaither that or you do very lil riding.

Mine is replaced every 5-7 hours

[xen]

80W90 gear oil is about the same as 20W40 engine oil, see http://www.maximausa.com/technical/l...s/spring98.pdf
I've been using 80W90 for a year with no probs. KTM recommends an oil change every 40hrs or after every race.. lol

[tommorth]

must be a long race mine would have all leaked out by 40 hours

[B0000M]

Check you have the plates in round the right way. On the CR250's they have a notch on one edge of the teeth, and if you put them on inside out then the notches catch on the basket and the clutch stops working n[/I]

really? what year CR is this relevant to? ive never noticed the notch.... i mustve got lucky!

[warewolf]

80W90 gear oil is about the same as 20W40 engine oil

You beat me to it. IIRC a couple of years ago Motorex re-badged their 2T gearbox oil from the big number down to the smaller number, possibly due to people's misconceptions about what the number meant.

But equally, you'd have to make sure you weren't using the 80-90 weight oil designed for differentials & shafties etc (hypoid??) ... that's stuff's as heavy as you'd think and has the wrong additives for a wet clutch.