Question about torquey big Vs

**BuzzardNZ** · 3rd May 2010, 10:58

As stated by others here, I agree that you need the following:

1) Ensure the TPS is set correctly.
2) Fit a TRE.
3) Don't ride the bike at such low revs.

I got a TEKA tune on my SV and also have done the TPS and TRE, also got a BMC filter, desnorkeled and after market pipes. All these mods will help smooth things out, well it did for me anyway.

**Jantar** · 3rd May 2010, 14:26

Originally Posted by DangerousBastard

You might richen the idle jets 1/4 turn and see if that does it.

Steve

Hey, that could be a simple fix. Where are these mystical idle jets found on a bike with no carburettor?

**98tls** · 3rd May 2010, 14:41

Originally Posted by Jantar

Hey, that could be a simple fix. Where are these mystical idle jets found on a bike with no carburettor?

Havent come across any on the TL,still its only been 10 years no doubt i will come across em at some stage.

**javawocky** · 3rd May 2010, 17:24

Originally Posted by varminter

Ok, the bike has been at the bike shop for three weeks, in that time they have not been able to duplicate the lurch/cutting out problem. The techo at Suzuki told me that "big v twins are a bit lumpy on low rev's" or words to that effect. The bike shop agreed. They also said they will up the idle speed to 1200 and adjust the lean mixture on low rev's. The problem was cutting out occasionally, usually going slow pootling up to lights etc. It got more lurchy (no such word) when I wound up the throttle from under 1000rpm to 1100. That's when it went GDUMPH and tossed me into the road.

So, what do big V twin riders say. Oh, yes I know there are much bigger one's out there but this is big to me.

As has been said...
My idle is set to about 1500 in winter and I turn in down in summer to around 1200. 1000 is going to see you embarris yourself lots and probably get thrown off if you are not expecting the rear to suddenly stop as it cuts out. (Tip: Idle screw head sticks out quite clearly on the left hand side of the frame near the back of the tank)

You will have to adjust your riding style, don't cruise round town bellow 3000. You can sometimes let it drop to 2500 but you have to be very gentle on apply more gas otherwise it will choke.

Recenty I aquired the skill of blipping the throttle on downshifts (I know I know, I stepped up from a RG150) and the bike is much happier and settled - especially when pushing it - and it sounds better too.

**Lurch** · 4th May 2010, 09:47

Seriously, on the left hand bar is a lever, it's called a clutch lever. It is designed to not only aid in smooth gear changes but also to avoid your V-Twin from 'Lurching' around town at sub-recommended RPMs.

They only change you need to make is the one in your left hand. The clutch lever has a near infinite level of adjustability, it is not an On and Off switch.

**Jantar** · 4th May 2010, 10:29

Originally Posted by Lurch

....They only change you need to make is the one in your left hand. The clutch lever has a near infinite level of adjustability, it is not an On and Off switch.

I do hope you're not suggesting riding the clutch on a VStrom? They have a known clutch shudder issue which is made worse by that method.

A TBS is the proven fix. No parts needed, and only takes a small amount of time.

**Lurch** · 4th May 2010, 10:51

Originally Posted by Jantar

I do hope you're not suggesting riding the clutch on a VStrom? They have a known clutch shudder issue which is made worse by that method.

A TBS is the proven fix. No parts needed, and only takes a small amount of time.

I'm not talking about riding in the friction zone for a kilometer, no.

But appropriate use of the clutch is paramount to riding a V-Twin.

**imdying** · 4th May 2010, 10:53

What's a TBS? Throttle body sync?

**Jantar** · 4th May 2010, 11:28

Originally Posted by imdying

What's a TBS? Throttle body sync?

**imdying** · 4th May 2010, 12:23

Between the TBS, TPS, and idle adjustment, you should be able to improve it for nothing but an hours effort (and maybe a little torx driver if you don't already have one to fit the TPS sensor adjustment screw).

**rocketman1** · 4th May 2010, 20:38

Originally Posted by Lurch

I'm not talking about riding in the friction zone for a kilometer, no.

But appropriate use of the clutch is paramount to riding a V-Twin.

I agree with Lurch, if you are going so slow that you are surching / getting chain snatch - pull the clutch in .
Mike SV idles at about 30kmh in first gear, road works can be problem, but I just use the clutch.
This is all part of the joy and character of riding a big V twin.
Also keep the revs above 4000 as much as possible, it doesnt do V twin anygood farting around labouring in any gear under this revs.

**Old Steve** · 4th May 2010, 20:45

Originally Posted by Ixion

My Sv thou started doing something similar ( not the chucking off thou ) . Fixed with a cupful of meths in the tank. Water in the fuel

If you suspect water in the tank, add a little (50 ml, maybe 75 ml, to a tank) iso-propyl alcohol. It's very good at absorbing water and is misible with the fuel - meths may just go into the water and you still have water (albeit mixed with meths) in the tank. Iso-propyl alcohol will be available at some servos, they buy it and sell it off in small bottles. Just ask for it until you find it.

**varminter** · 5th May 2010, 19:41

I've never felt it lurching or straining or laboring at any throttle setting that I used, has always been sweet. As I said the only problem started out as cutting out usually going fairly slow either round a corner or perhaps approaching lights etc, usually going through neutral . I suspect the mistake I made was increasing the idle by too small an amount, i.e from under 1000 to only 1100 when 1200-1250 would have been better. I feel that this caused the bike to stop then start again causing a lurch....well that's my guess, pick up the bike tomorrow so I'll keep you posted

Thanks all for your input.

**scumdog** · 5th May 2010, 20:16

Originally Posted by Old Steve

If you suspect water in the tank, add a little (50 ml, maybe 75 ml, to a tank) iso-propyl alcohol. It's very good at absorbing water and is misible with the fuel - meths may just go into the water and you still have water (albeit mixed with meths) in the tank. Iso-propyl alcohol will be available at some servos, they buy it and sell it off in small bottles. Just ask for it until you find it.

Yeah, I tried a mixture of meths and petrol with a bit of water in a plastic coke bottle, if you swirled it around it seemed to mix up but after a few minutes it separated out again and settled into different layers..