And don't be a pratt like me and break the stud. I neglected to heat it at all first as the first one came out so easily. More fool me. If you haven't got a carbide tip, you can buy a packet of 10 bits from Supercheap for about $8 and throw them on your electric drill. Electric, not battery as it will take a while. I chewed through three of the bits, although they are not the best quality.
Now got a little bit of popping on deceleration. I am sure I didn't have that before, although the one stud mount could have something to do with that.
Heat what? the stud? Do they break unless you give it a blast with the blow torch, I thouht CRC overnite would be good enough? I am about to get started on this mod and dont want the hassle of a broken stud...
As for the Popping, I currently run a modified airbox, hi flow foam filter, Procircuit T-4 can (with spark arrestor), and Dyno jet kit, Doesnt matter what I do to the carb settings (so far) it pops like crazy if you really use the engine breaking. Sometimes its cool, but occasionally a bit embarrasing... usually cool!
I just undid them. No heating.
The DR200 had studs with nuts on. One came off easily, one came out with the nut. On the DR650 they are cap head bolts. The first one was a breeze, the second one was seized but after WD40 and time started to move. Got to 7 1/2 quarter turns on the ratchet before it broke. I would suggest heat if it doesn't start straight away. Mine is a 2007 and the bolts seem well rusted.
A day to forget. Went to my M/c mechanic mate and so we drilled a pilot hole, but as it was a caphead bolt rather than a stud it was a mission. So he decided to try the "weld the nut on" trick. So, after that failed a few times, back to the drilling, but now with a lovely cover of weld. Finally through with a 3/16th drill and out with the stud extractor. After that broke back to the "weld the nut on" trick. Now parked at my engineer mate's workshop for extra activity tomorrow. There is a small hole at the bottom of the hole the bolt/stud goes into. I am unsure why it is there but can only assume that it is what lets the water in to rust the bolt in place. It is the top stud but impossible to get into the thread from behind, but after this is all done, I may put a wee drop of silicon there to seal the hole.
Bugger.
Back from the engineers, broken bolt firmly in place. He has managed to anneal the extractor a bit so I may be able to drill it out. Will try tomorrow and if unsuccessful, head off and another plan.
Bugger!
bloody bugger alrite mate
'Good things come to those who wait'
Bollocks, get of your arse and go get it
Thought "bugger it" and jumped on the bikes for a quick trip to Wanga Vegas (or should that be Whanga Vegas) for lunch. Me on the ZRX, wife on the Raptor 650, a mate on his Sprint and one of his colleagues on her Harley. Not too bad with the heated grips on and we were able to test the P.H.S. walkie talkie controls as well. Communication ok to around 75kph then too much wind noise.
Lovely day for riding though.
All done. Managed to drill down a bit through the stud extractor (about 8mm) then tap it out through the bottom of the broken bolt. Then drilled out the bolt and after many hours I am ready for the helicoil kit tomorrow. Will be able to keep the same size (8mm) bolt with the stainless helicoil in place. Anyone able to advise if the standard fitting is a caphead bolt or stud with a nut?
Thanks
All finished, thank god!
Painted the header nice and flat black and fitted the Pro Circuit pipe. I certainly won't be sneaking up on anyone. Will remove the cap and adjust mixture tomorrow.
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