I felt softening ALL the settings 1/4 turn made a noticeable improvement, both on track and on the road. Not that I am a 10/10ths rider! I have gone another 1/4 softer all round and will check out the impact of that.
I felt softening ALL the settings 1/4 turn made a noticeable improvement, both on track and on the road. Not that I am a 10/10ths rider! I have gone another 1/4 softer all round and will check out the impact of that.
Just got back from CKT where Robert fixed up the suspension on a K7 GSXR 600. Using race tech components the difference is astounding. Dont bother meddling with settings, take a trip to New Plymouth and experience what real suspension feels like. He also did my Kawa 636 with the same results. The guy is a genius.
Interesting you should say this because I was talking with a road rider a couple of days back looking for advice after taking the recommendations of others (racers) and spending a good load of coin on suspension "upgrades". He now lacks confidence in his bike and just wants it to be the way it was when he purchased it stock. horses for courses
PAINT WINJS ROFF YA BASTARDS
That's a good point... if you use race damping set ups on the road.
My Ohlins cartridges have a quite different valving spec for my predominantly road use of my bike, as opposed to the exact same cartridges that a lot of 06-09 racebikes have in them.
Robert Taylor has revalved my cartridges several times after my feedback, and I believe we have come up with a great "road" spec.
The TTX shock I have is "as delivered" apart from the spring that was changed to suit my weight.
My bike feels a WHOLE lot better than stock in the suspension department
Well ended up getting a TTX off RT. A rebuilt second-hand unit off a bike that had just finished this season's nationals.
With only one day's riding so far... what a difference! Mid corner bumps aren't such a problem now and you can really get on the gas early and hard in a corner. (well, as hard as a 600 allows anyhow)
Even just adjusting the clickers and bouncing on the seat shows a difference. Before on the standard shock - adjusting the rebound setting didn't make much visible difference to the way the rear end rebounded. It would always rise up slowly and lethargically even when you have been winding the rebound off more and more. One click on the TTX however actually made a visible difference to the speed of the rebound when mucking around in the garage. Got to be a good thing.
Very pleased with the shock from RT and will be turning my attention to the front end next...
Having done a good 6 or 700 ks on the TTX since putting it on a couple of weeks ago, I have continued to be impressed with the improvements it has brought. Like today riding back from Dunedin in light showers with newly wet roads. Was trying to provoke some momentary wheel-spin by gassing it hard over wet bumpy sections of road. But the rear never broke traction and just held its grip and accelerated. The less harshness of the rear and subsequently improved traction has made the bike a lot easier and more forgiving to ride in the wet.
I find it funny how some people think suspension components like a TTX shock is overkill for the street and a rider would only benefit from such if they were pushing hard on a track. Don't know, good suspension is good suspension in my book.
For about the same money as an aftermarket exhaust and a tune - I reckon I have gotten more bang for my buck this way.
I fear the day technology will surpass our human interaction. The world will have a generation of idiots! ALBERT EINSTEIN
Thats really got to depend on the application and rider stats etc. If the rider is light and rides on a lot of B roads then taking away high speed often works. Trackdays ( an opposite scenario ) then certainly there is a benefit in firmer ride height control, with a loss of comfort over the nastiest bumps. One mans meat is another mans poison, but theres a common scenario, many riders are afraid to go anywhere near the adjusters. Which sometimes is just as well!!!!
I have often read that Suzuki's shocks typically have weak high speed comp damping.
Dave Moss also quite often suggests closing up high speed comp for better bump compliance even though going that way seems counterintuitive at first... i.e... http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/4985094
Yes that can work, especially for heavier / taller riders doing track days. Its compenasting to a degree for the shim stack opening pressure on the main piston being weak.
But for lighter road riders at median speeds on main roads not neccessarily so. Everyone is different in what they want.
Of course if it does work and works best with the adjuster closed right in then its saying that the main stack needs revalving so that the adjuster can be moved back closer to the middle area of its response range.
With having both the TTX and a fork revalve the 600 is fantastic now!
The forks are a lot firmer now with far less change of attitude in the front of the bike.
(though at the same time smoother with less harshness over bumps) The bike doesn't feel like it wants to run wide or suddenly tighten its line if you get on or off the gas through a corner. Holds a line with ease.
Before having the forks seen to and just running the TTX... I had reduced compression damping one click from what CKT had set it up on to get a little bit more movement to match what the front was doing I suppose. At the time it felt firmer than the front.
Then yesterday with the reworked forks I tried reducing compression damping a 1/4 turn to see if it would give better bump compliance... but it didn't feel as good in its ability to hold a line like it was on rails. Put compression back to how I had got them from CKT.
So today I increased the compression damping back up the one click on the TTX and bingo!
The 600 is now so incredibly firm in its ride height/attitude that nothing seems to faze it it all. Both ends feel like they are acting as one. At the same time it is so much smoother with far less harshness over bumps than how it was when stock at both ends.
That must be the "firm but compliant" people talk about.
It's an incredible feeling!
Once you know what good suspension is, you will never go back. It works all the time at all speeds and provides benefits in so many ways.
I believe that's where the manufacturers skimp. Think about it. Everybody wants a more powerful engine or a faster top speed, but not everybody needs a 9.0 Nmm spring in the rear shock. I suspect that the majority of riders really haven't got their heads around the concept of properly set-up suspension.
But also the manufacturers need to put a bike out the door that could be ridden by someone 50 kg or have two 150 kg people on it two-up and not be a death trap for either extreme and have themselves sued.
That's why it's best to optimise it to your weight alone and actually have the bike handle the way it was intended to.
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