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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #3661
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    Its not scavenging thats directly the issue, its lack of blowdown time, that effects scavenging efficiency and delivery ratio .
    Means the cylinder is full of exhaust residuals, as much of the mixture waiting in the ducts is reverse flowed back into the case.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  2. #3662
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ned Kelly View Post
    Clip taken from the back of my bike. A grade points race. Avalon was riding the bike. She went real well with a 3rd place

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eYEe8gIzs2I
    Av riding NedKellys RS/GP125 (Team ESE) bike to third place, in the 2nd A grade race.

    This engine has done several Taupos, 3 x 2-Hours and numerus races and is now the least developed bike in the ESE stable and is due for a bit of an up grade.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    NedKellys dyno graph.

    The details of how his engine was made and the relativly few simple mod's involved are on page 200 for anyone who wants to have a go at one of these for themselves.

  3. #3663
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    Searching for the sweet spot.

    Receved some Mallory metal slugs from Wobbly today. They are about 19mm in dia and about twice the weight of steel.


    I calculated that I needed about 45g to get a balance factor of 52%. Which is lucky because that is equivalent to one slug.

    So, cut a slug in half by holding the slug in the lathe and while it was spinning I cut through it using a slotting blade in a hand grinder.

    Drilled some 19mm holes and squared the bottom of the holes with a butterfly drill.

    Glued the Mallory plugs in place and center punched some dimples around them for extra security.

    Job done.
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  4. #3664
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Searching for the sweet spot.

    Receved some Mallory metal slugs from wobbly today. They are about 19mm in dia and about twice the weight of steel.


    I calculated that I needed about 45g to get a balance factor of 52%. Which is lucky because that is equivalent to one slug.

    So, cut a slug in half by holding the slug in the lathe and while it was spinning I cut through it using a slotting blade in a hand grinder.

    Drilled some 19mm holes and squared the bottom of the holes with a butterfly drill.

    Glued the Mallory plugs in place and center punched some dimples around them for extra security.

    Job done.
    Butterfly drill ? What is that ?
    Quote Originally Posted by sil3nt View Post
    Fkn crack up. Most awkward interviewee ever i reckon haha.

  5. #3665
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    Quote Originally Posted by gatch View Post
    Butterfly drill ? What is that ?
    I did a quick search on the net, only found one reference to a butterfly drill, so it looks like I am prety much the only one calling it that. I should have called it a flat bottom drill which is a bit like a sheet metal drill.

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    I drilled an ordany hole first then flattened the bottom until the Mallory slug fitted flush with the face of the flywheel.

    A good reference to sharpining or re-shaping drills:- http://users.bart.nl/users/summer/16...Sharpening.htm

  6. #3666
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    I did a quick search on the net, only found one reference to a butterfly drill, so it looks like I am prety much the only one calling it that. I should have called it a flat bottom drill which is a bit like a sheet metal drill.

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    I drilled an ordany hole first then flattened the bottom until the Mallory slug fitted flush with the face of the flywheel.

    A good reference to sharpining or re-shaping drills:- http://users.bart.nl/users/summer/16...Sharpening.htm
    Ohhh, I see. I've never heard it being called that ha. I usually use a slot drill to flatten out blind holes. As I can't be arsed re grinding the points..
    Quote Originally Posted by sil3nt View Post
    Fkn crack up. Most awkward interviewee ever i reckon haha.

  7. #3667
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    My old man spent a huge amount of time in his apprenticeship sitting in front of a grinder sharpening drills all day. Consequently he is quite good at it, hand him a drill and he can sharpen it PERFECTLY in a few strokes without even looking at it!
    Heinz Varieties

  8. #3668
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    Quote Originally Posted by koba View Post
    My old man spent a huge amount of time in his apprenticeship sitting in front of a grinder sharpening drills all day. Consequently he is quite good at it, hand him a drill and he can sharpen it PERFECTLY in a few strokes without even looking at it!
    I sharpen something just about everyday, ASSAB tools, drills, carbide tools, knives, machine blades, my fingers..

    The trickiest thing so far is renewing little drills. Like below 4mm. A girl on my pre trade course ages ago was amazing at it. Tiny little fingers and real delicate touch. Not me though, I can barely see them hahaha. True story.
    Quote Originally Posted by sil3nt View Post
    Fkn crack up. Most awkward interviewee ever i reckon haha.

  9. #3669
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    True, I think the trick is getting the skills well sorted before the eyesight fails.
    Heinz Varieties

  10. #3670
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    If you have any issues with the Mallory coming loose ( hope you dont) you can Tig weld them in place.
    In the stroker Banshee/RZ/LC cranks I build, they are 0.08mm press fitted, then Tig tacked each side.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  11. #3671
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    If you have any issues with the Mallory coming loose ( hope you dont) you can Tig weld them in place.
    In the stroker Banshee/RZ/LC cranks I build, they are 0.08mm press fitted, then Tig tacked each side.
    You don't put a chain and padlock around them just to be sure ??
    Quote Originally Posted by sil3nt View Post
    Fkn crack up. Most awkward interviewee ever i reckon haha.

  12. #3672
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Filched from another thread. Some Engine machine shops that can do small cylinder re-bores.........

    Quote Originally Posted by Motu View Post
    Carr Engine Services ,Carr Rd Mt Roskill.
    Quote Originally Posted by Camshaft View Post
    Enpro in Onehunga.
    Quote Originally Posted by grotto View Post
    Empro don't go small enough, but Carr can
    cheers
    Quote Originally Posted by Wheeliemonsta View Post
    Scott Sampson at Glenn Dene Engine Reconditioners has been doing all my machining work for bl**dy years - his workmanship is beyond reproach & his charges are realistic...

    *** VERY MOTORCYCLE FRIENDLY, HAS THE SKILLS & GEAR TO DO THE JOB RIGHT FIRST TIME EVERYTIME ***

    31D Cartwright Road
    Glenn Eden Waitakere City Auckland Ph: 09 818 5352 Fax: 818 5225 Mob: 021 711 595 E-Mail: glendenerecond@xtra.co.nz
    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Wade Automotive. cnr Church St and Gt South Rd Onehunga (by the Southern Motorway on ramp) they have bored my 43mm 50cc and 56mm 125cc Bucket race cylinders.
    It pays to ring a reconditioner first and find out if they have a boring bar small enough for your cylinder, and also if they have to change it over to do your cylinder because if they do, they will probably leave your job till last or never if they are busy.

    Also a small cylinder can cost more than a big one because of the change over and then back time involved.

  13. #3673
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    30th September 2008 - 09:31
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHELRACING View Post
    [B]Has anyone seen this months (March 2011) TOP GEAR magazine?

    There is a really cool article on last years 2 hour,held in Auckland, Pages 38,39,40.

    A few of the boys got a pic in there. Tim Fraser, Dave Manuell, Gary Cunningham. There's a real good one of the Le Mans start.

    They are full of praise for JC (John Connor) and he deserves it too !!!

    They loved the racing and were impressed by the riders abilities.
    I'm going to buy the magazine, just for the bucket racing pages.
    Oh yeah there's a few nice looking cages in there too, I spose!!!!!!
    A good picture in there too, of Peter (Indian Motorcycles) and Josh Walby (Team Pepsi) working on their bike.

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    Ooops the images are back to front, best read them with a mirror or ...........

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    Buy a copy of Top Gear, March 2011 from your local Book Store or Petrol Station...........

  14. #3674
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    21st August 2008 - 21:52
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    Ts100 16hp

    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Av riding NedKellys RS/GP125 (Team ESE) bike to third place, in the 2nd A grade race.

    This engine has done several Taupos, 3 x 2-Hours and numerus races and is now the least developed bike in the ESE stable and is due for a bit of an up grade.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    NedKellys dyno graph.

    The details of how his engine was made and the relativly few simple mod's involved are on page 200 for anyone who wants to have a go at one of these for themselves.
    nice power curve,mark beat her in the first race on his 16hp ts100 which makes more bottom end power,have a new pipe to fit and get the power up to 20hp.

  15. #3675
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    30th September 2008 - 09:31
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    The powerjet carb is controlled by the Ignitech with a combination of throttle position and rpm in a "truth table".

    In general the solenoid is activated with 12V ( no fuel flowing) below 4000 rpm and 75% throttle on the TPS.

    Above 75% and around 12400 rpm it is activated again to lean off the fuel curve over the top of the pipe.
    And something that I scraped from the net.........

    ""The solenoid control on TZ type powerjets really just shuts off fuel flow to the powerjets right at the top of the rev range to lean the mixture off to increase the over-rev once you are past peak power.

    I don't have the solenoids plugged in currently though as I find they work well enough for my current needs with the powerjets simply responding to venturi vacuum pressure in pretty much the same way as the oem 3MA powerjets work.""

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    And here is a picture of the carbs and what I can make out, a dyno graph without, and with the power jet solenoids shutting off (red line) and extending the over rev.

    So it looks like you can use an electric power jet like a standard one and when the carburation is sorted, try switching it of by activating the solenoid at or just after peak power and see what happens with the over rev.

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