Synthetic fortified oil and older machines

**ellipsis** · 4th April 2011, 14:38

...having just rebuilt my CB350f and getting it back on the track I have a little clutch slip...I put new oil in after the rebuild and used ELF Moto 4hp-eco 10-40...it says synthetic fortified and I am wondering if the clutch is now slipping because I have gained some horses back or if the oil is not the best to use on an older bike/clutch...I am just about to put new friction plates in, but was wondering if anyone new if this oil is to be avoided when I put new oil in..

**DEATH_INC.** · 4th April 2011, 14:43

Should be ok, it's JASO-MA rated....

**ellipsis** · 4th April 2011, 15:24

...beauty...thanks for that...

**MSTRS:Me** · 4th April 2011, 15:48

Always use motorcycle-specific oil. Your ELF is fine.
Way back when, bikes happily used car oils, but then along came friction modifiers, which cause problems for wet clutches.
Perhaps your clutch springs or fibre plates are past it? Or the steels need a light sanding?

**ellipsis** · 4th April 2011, 16:03

...its getting new plates and springs...be rude not to after getting a new top end and going like a 350F should...not just sounding like one...always said I would up the anti on my oils one day...then you tot up the cost of running the good oils in 6 or 8 bikes you run...Im glad to hear that the elf stuff I bought is not the problem...

**MSTRS:Me** · 4th April 2011, 16:10

I do think that synthetic is overkill in an old bike, however. A good mineral is all you need.

**98tls** · 4th April 2011, 16:22

Originally Posted by MSTRS

I do think that synthetic is overkill in an old bike, however. A good mineral is all you need.

Mate i believe that to be true for any bike subject to normal road riding only.

**Quasievil** · 4th April 2011, 16:43

Originally Posted by 98tls

Mate i believe that to be true for any bike subject to normal road riding only.

Bollocks me mateys, a fully synthetic only offers advantages, there are no disadvantages at all in running a synthetic in a engine of any age.
thats a fact.

**98tls** · 4th April 2011, 16:52

Originally Posted by Quasievil

Bollocks me mateys, a fully synthetic only offers advantages, there are no disadvantages at all in running a synthetic in a engine of any age.
thats a fact.

Advantages?Explain Q,It costs more and for what?38 motorcycles later ive never had a problem with good mineral nor i doubt i will ever.

**Quasievil** · 4th April 2011, 17:06

Originally Posted by 98tls

Advantages?Explain Q,It costs more and for what?38 motorcycles later ive never had a problem with good mineral nor i doubt i will ever.

It costs more ? is that all u got mate?
It costs less in the long run, we have a squillion proof of performance tests that clearly show that the advantage of a true full synthetic pays back its initial higher price very quickly and over and over (dependant on the type of vehicle).

Not to mention the engine will run better at variable temps (i.e start up), lower friction, less oil oxidation, no impurities like Sulphur reactive and unstable hydrocarbons, generally better additive packages (certainly in the case of Mobil 1 anyway)

if I can use this analogy, mineral is like pushing your car on gravel, synthetic is like pushing you car on smooth concrete, whats easier for you??? the concrete, so whats better for your engine? synthetic.

**BMWST?** · 4th April 2011, 17:10

Originally Posted by MSTRS

I do think that synthetic is overkill in an old bike, however. A good mineral is all you need.

he has just rebuilt it.....so its now a new bike

.The advantages of synthetic hold true for all engines.Lighter weigths mean faster pump times at start up when the most wear occurs,less shear effects etc etc.

**98tls** · 4th April 2011, 17:15

Originally Posted by Quasievil

It costs more ? is that all u got mate?
It costs less in the long run, we have a squillion proof of performance tests that clearly show that the advantage of a true full synthetic pays back its initial higher price very quickly and over and over (dependant on the type of vehicle).

Not to mention the engine will run better at variable temps (i.e start up), lower friction, less oil oxidation, no impurities like Sulphur reactive and unstable hydrocarbons, generally better additive packages (certainly in the case of Mobil 1 anyway)

if I can use this analogy, mineral is like pushing your car on gravel, synthetic is like pushing you car on smooth concrete, whats easier for you??? the concrete, so whats better for your engine? synthetic.

Yea yea mate ive heard all that before and yep the "cost" thing is all i have,i would be a prime example of someone who keeps bikes a long time,had the TL a decade using good quality mineral,the advantage of me shelling out for synthetic still are not apparent,not knocking what your saying mate i just cant see how the benefits of synthetic re the cost have a reward to the owner of a bike ridden purely on road,i can understand it in a race bike or a bike ridden in extreme conditions possibly.

**98tls** · 4th April 2011, 17:20

Originally Posted by BMWST?

he has just rebuilt it.....so its now a new bike

.The advantages of synthetic hold true for all engines.Lighter weigths mean faster pump times at start up when the most wear occurs,less shear effects etc etc.

In theory you may be right though only for those that do what there old man did and leave something ticking over at idle to warm it up.

**Quasievil** · 4th April 2011, 17:23

Originally Posted by 98tls

Yea yea mate ive heard all that before and yep the "cost" thing is all i have,i would be a prime example of someone who keeps bikes a long time,had the TL a decade using good quality mineral,the advantage of me shelling out for synthetic still are not apparent,not knocking what your saying mate i just cant see how the benefits of synthetic re the cost have a reward to the owner of a bike ridden purely on road,i can understand it in a race bike or a bike ridden in extreme conditions possibly.

Do you think the start up from cold stress on your engine is any less than that of a race bike?
what do you pay for your oil now dude ? a 4lt pack?

**98tls** · 4th April 2011, 17:32

Originally Posted by Quasievil

Do you think the start up from cold stress on your engine is any less than that of a race bike?
what do you pay for your oil now dude ? a 4lt pack?

No,i dont i just believe (ive no reason to not) that good quality mineral does the job,if i had ever had reason to see that it doesnt i would have changed.To be honest i cant remember what the last lot cost me which brings to mind that this is where my opinion/belief may have a flaw

as its been so long since i compared prices maybe there not to far apart these days as they used to be,tell ya what Q i have to go into town tommorow,will call in at the bike shop and compare the prices as you may well have a point though that said i will as i have for 40 or so years continue to use good quality mineral.(old and set in my ways

)Fwiw i have always run it in my V8s with no need to change.